Sign in to follow this  
Tightmopedman9

Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

First of all I'd like to say thanks to everyone here for your hard work and information without which I could not enjoy the benefits of self tuning the ecu.

I'll have a suggestion about a simpler way of injector calibration (really fast method,does not require driving and one person can do it),which worked perfectly for me and a question about enabling data-logging and another about  the slushbox.
Let me share the story in a nutshell. So I moved to Canada in 2016 and I bought an S60 T6 AWD which is a nice and boring car. However I have my beautiful S70 T5 in Europe and I could not resist the temptation to improve it.
This summer I bought all the parts I wanted (DO88 intercooler and RIP, 3"intake + all water hoses silicone, Ferrita 3'DP 2.5' catback, DW300 Fuel pump, Wiseco 81.5 pistons, new oil pup, H-Rods, S90MAf,Green giants, PLX Wideband, Boost gauge,  IPD TCV, MSD ignition,S60R exhaust manifold,a lame TD04HL-20T/11blade from ARD and also a K24 from ebay in very good condition as backup, tranny cooler, suspension parts, wheel bearings etc lots of other stuff and a crane to remove the engine and an engine stand.
Some big parts I could ship to Europe the rest I ordered to Canada and took to EU in a checked in luggage (35kg) which the border security opened and inspected. Maybe pistons,rods and turbo looked unusual to them in the xray screen.
Now the beauty of this is that I took a 3 week unpaid vacation, flew to Europe and decided that in that 3 weeks I'll do all this work by myself. There was some risk involved. One was that I did not know the color codes for the crank bearings and I did not want to buy all sizes so I decided I will trust the ones in the engine. The engine in my S70 is a junkyard 850T5 engine which made nice knocking sounds when warm but could reach 250km/h regardless with 16T. Other than that, I had never done an engine rebuild before maybe this,probably because I'm an IT guy. The first shock to the eye was the cylinder head. I've never seen valves like this. TBH I could not even see the valves themselves. First I thought they were melted. Turned out they had about 3mm thick rock-hard deposit which took a Dremel and half day to remove. Unfortunately the shop which I scheduled the cylinder boring work with refused to do the 5 angle valve job with such short deadline. Even the boring happened with a 4 day delay (weekend in the middle). At least there was no valve leak, I filled it up with wd40 and the liquid level stayed the same for 12 hr. Factory piston wrist pins were too long for the Wiseco pistons and they were really hard to 0cut to proper size. Anyway, to cut this short, I managed to put things together just 4days before the return flight. Without fuel and sparkplugs I primed the engine, then moment of truth : started right away and had a beautiful sound. Break in : I decided to go for the hard-break in, following a procedure found at a race engine builder forum. First I put some cheap oil, and drove for about 3km in 1st gear with very light load continously fluctuating rpm between 2000 and 3000. Then it got an oil and filter change to a half synthetic. Did several pulls in first gear(remember this AW50-42), gradually  increasing throttle position and maximum rpm with each pull,each followed by engine brake to about 1800rpm. The promise was that after several attempts, the engine will pull harder and harder till it reaches peak performance as the rings settle. I confirm this performance increase is noticeable big time! Before, I remember how week the car felt without the turbo below 2500 (driven some x70 T5s,all are like that). Now it's day and light difference! Of course TCV was set to 0 which meant about 5psi boost till 4K rpm and 8psi over that till redline.
Then it got an oil and filter change again (after 20km) to castrol edge 5w30. Engine break in was complete. I did a test pull, with 8 psi the car was much faster than before the build on 14 psi. It easily reached 210km/h in third gear without losing power but my test road was not enough to continue.I think it could have gone all the way up to redline. I had to fly back to Canada without having enough time to complete the tune.Summer fun ended.

Then there was XMAS. So again, I went to Europe again to see my beloved. It finally got the DW300 fuel pump, the plx wideband, the S90 maf.Oh almost forgot, I soldered the cable to the Ostrich in the spare ECU and to my surprise it worked right away. Btw for some reason, I've always been able to flash the original ecu using a small power supply ~11.9volt but I had a large capacitor connected (100k uF or so).

To my annoyance, I could not use the PLX narrowband output with the ECU because of the ~0.7V offset of the O2 sensor gnd,even though I made a small circuit to add that offset. That's because that 0.7V starts floating up and down so I had to put the original narrowband back. Not gonna give this up, I'll make another circuit with an isolation amplifier or something with a small transformer and pwm but I want to use the PLX output.

So for the injector calibration: I did everything according to "tuning injector constant and dead times" article.I spent hours and hours but could never get it right. Maybe because I have a phenolic spacer installed between head and intake manifold so there are significant injector temperature changes between driving and idling for some time(winter time), which can alter injector dead times. Again I had to do this by myself without "partner in crime" so I figured another way out.My method does not require driving.

I assumed that the fuel pressure relative to intake was stable, so once I set the injector constant right only playing with the dead times are required.
My idea was that -assuming the injector constant is right- if car runs rich at idle and I give some throttle in neutral to reach 3k rpm, afr will lean out somewhat.
Now if the car runs lean the same little throttle/3k rpm will richen the afr instead with the same injector constant.

So first I set the idle afr to 14 and played with the constant till it started leaning to like 14.2 when increased the rpm to 3000.Then changed the dead time to 15.4 and tested if 3K rpm will bring it down to 15.2.
Don't remember the exact numbers but was something like this. I think the whole process took about 4-5mins, then I set the dead time so idle afr was 14.7 and started driving. It stayed stable 14.7 at 90km/h.
Maybe this will help someone.

Then I started playing with TCV.(with the P part zeroed). I think the car is all right. Dry road, At 12psi max ~40km/h I gave some throttle, not too much to avoid downshift to 1st.Immediate wheelspin, some more throttle, bounces to redline,shifts to 3rd, speed shows 140km/h, I let off the throttle and I can't see anything in the mirror because of the tire smoke. Alright,tires are 205/50/16 only.
Played little more, 17psi, no grip if I floor it at 100km/h. Still using stock 607 map, no adjustment in ignition/fueling,  95 octane euro spec fuel, no knock events.At least CEL was not flashing.
Because of the S90 maf afr does not lean out towards redline, but 17psi was a mistake. increasing TCV over 65-70 adds too much boost.

My questions:
For some reason I could not turn on datalogging using the rev5b.bin. It does not matter which character I send I get a response R00000000 from the ecu. My adapter is USB->FTDI RS232 and then there is an VAG connector attached to the RS232. I was desperate enough few years ago to modify the bin myself a bit so when I press the accelerator with ignition on, it does not only switch the maps but it also turns on datalogging and that hack works. But why does not it work for me the way it supposed to?? Now unfortunately I did not have that bin with me when needed.Bad luck.

The more important one:
I could see immediately that this level of performance is not gonna be a long term fun for me. When I purchased the 20T I was hesitating to buy something larger because of the transmission.
However I don't want to see high EGT and EBP anyway so this little turbo was nice for experimenting for few days but I have no plans to max it out at high rpm.
Was thinking about IPD4T4 or K24 Hybrid. Decided to go with 4T4 this summer.
My question is, having an external transmission cooler, what are the limits of AW50-42? I've read countless forums but never got the magic number.
I'm not planning to do light to light accelerations and have a temperature gauge installed for the tranny oil so I can monitor it.
When the oil is not hot, what can that transmission take? I don't want midrange peak torque, I want a flat curve from 3000 to redline.
gear 1,2 and 4 locks up so if the clutches don't slip I guess it's ok. In third gear it likes to keep the rpm around 5k and use the torque converter for better acceleration. That's another scary part.
I could see Dougy's posts, now that is pushing the limits for sure.
Do you guys think it can take a flat 500nm curve if the oil temp is ok? Or is there a magic number?
Please don't start giving me advice about switching to manual transmission.Yes I love manual, in fact I have RWD manual car which I sometimes use for drifting.The S70 I want to keep like this.

Thanks

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

This mite be a daft question but why is my logged AFR (in red) different to my requested AFR (in blue)(middle graph) ?

12-01-19a.jpg

Edited by oblark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Question to the experienced coders here; would it be possible to add a per-cylinder correction factor on the injector constant? Just a percentage-based multiplication, say 10, maybe 20% either way to keep some resolution in fine-tuning.

I've got my per-cylinder EGT set-up now and I think I should be able to compensate with individual injector trims, since they all do differ slightly.

I started coding and started with the obligatory C (which is coming along nicely), though reverse-engineering in assembly isn't at a level that would provide any meaningful results yet.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/13/2019 at 2:54 AM, oblark said:

Hi,

This mite be a daft question but why is my logged AFR (in red) different to my requested AFR (in blue)(middle graph) ?

12-01-19a.jpg

 

Are you running WB mod and using an AEM WB O2 sensor?  Then this thread may apply to you..

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159506-tuners-rejoice-free-tuning-for-m44/?do=findComment&comment=2413656

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Piet said:

Yeah, I think  that might be doable.

Cool, I'll message you shortly to see if we can figure something out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, so I probably have a stupid question. Or more.

I've had an M4.4 ECU waiting around for me to do something with, but my '96 855 T5 is an automagic. I've read through most of this 7100 posts thread, and still can't really seem to see that there's any consensus on making the 608 bin usable for an automatic. It kind of went from changing one little thing, to @Piet saying there's far more to it than that. 

So, what I'm trying to do is make a fun and reliable DD, and from what I can understand, @Simply Volvo's 608_rev5b18PSINew.bin should be a pretty good starting point. I've a 15G, orange injectors, no rear O2, and so on.

So here's the question - can I simply copy tables and settings from that 608 bin to the stock 607 bin, or no? I see significant changes in many of the tables, but is there anything that would be incompatible with my beloved automatic shifting magic? 

In the confusing world of BINs, XDFs and ADXs, a newbie struggling to digest 7100 posts will be sincerely grateful to be pointed in the right direction for a good starting point. 😌

- S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Sommerfeldt said:

Okay, so I probably have a stupid question. Or more.

I've had an M4.4 ECU waiting around for me to do something with, but my '96 855 T5 is an automagic. I've read through most of this 7100 posts thread, and still can't really seem to see that there's any consensus on making the 608 bin usable for an automatic. It kind of went from changing one little thing, to @Piet saying there's far more to it than that. 

So, what I'm trying to do is make a fun and reliable DD, and from what I can understand, @Simply Volvo's 608_rev5b18PSINew.bin should be a pretty good starting point. I've a 15G, orange injectors, no rear O2, and so on.

So here's the question - can I simply copy tables and settings from that 608 bin to the stock 607 bin, or no? I see significant changes in many of the tables, but is there anything that would be incompatible with my beloved automatic shifting magic? 

In the confusing world of BINs, XDFs and ADXs, a newbie struggling to digest 7100 posts will be sincerely grateful to be pointed in the right direction for a good starting point. 😌

- S

Welcome to the M4.4 fun!!   :a-farmboy:

Since you're not making significant hardware mods from stock, suggest just starting with the stock 607_rev5b.bin and then begin tweaking the maps as needed/desired.  Check your injector calibration first (Maarten's method works well IMO) but my guess is it won't be far off, if at all, since you're using stock injectors.  You can certainly look at Simply's 18psi bin for ideas, and copy maps from it if you wish, but I would not consider it golden; it was an example of his experimentation at the time.  Maybe he'll chime in with comments.

RE: using the 608 bin in an auto-magic car; it was thought at one time that would work, but I believe TMM9 found issues with it on some cars.  Either Piet or TMM9 could comment further.  I haven't tried that myself; I am using a modified 607.

If you have more M4.4 getting up and running type questions, please start a new thread in the Performance Mods section.  This thread is supposed to be reserved for new developments in the world of M4.4 volvo tuning, but that's why it's been a bit quiet of late..  :sad:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah that file is crap, don’t use it. That’s when I knew nothing.

Should probably just be removed from the wiki tbh.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies, @gdog & @Simply Volvo! Much appreciated. I'll start a new thread if I've got more questions - as I'm sure I will - and get started on building my own tune from the "bare bones" 607. :)

It's a shame the wiki isn't being updated - it's a pretty gigantic task to wade through these almost 500 pages. I'm also sure there are a bunch of awesome bins out there that would be good starting points for noooobs like me, and might spark some enthusiasm about getting into it, instead of frustration, agony, searching and not finding and then just giving up. :D

Could be worth thinking about setting up a more reliable and up to date resource, maybe, if people would be partial to that? I have to wade through all of this at least a couple of times over, and compiling a little along the way couldn't hurt. :)

- S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎1‎/‎20‎/‎2019 at 10:54 PM, gdog said:

 

Are you running WB mod and using an AEM WB O2 sensor?  Then this thread may apply to you..

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159506-tuners-rejoice-free-tuning-for-m44/?do=findComment&comment=2413656

 

Yes I'm using a AEM WB O2 sensor with the WB mod which was set up by Maarten at the beginning of 2018,

What I've noticed is the logged AFR is not the same as the reading on the gauge so after a lot of searching the internet I think I've found the problem.

This is the conversion formula I was using,  (((X* 0.0196078) - 0.2)*2) + 10

But I found this on a ford forum to work the conversion formula.

From the AEM manual 0v =10 AFR and 4.99v = 19.98 AFR

Max AFR - Min AFR = AFR range. 19.98 - 10 = 9.98

9.98 / 255 = 0.0391372549

So the formula for tunerpro would be (X*0.0391372549) + 10

I've tried this formula and the logged AFR is now with in 2% of the reading on the gauge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay - one more question. The links to the files on the M44 wiki doesn't work anymore. In addition, the ones of us that are using automatic gearboxes are kind of out of luck, since you can't just change one little thing and make the 608 maps fit for the automagic. I'm trying to get the 607 bin from Motronic Suite, but there are two of them - 0261204607_1037359868_0 and 0261204607_1037357780_0 - which one is the one I want? Or are they the same?

In addition, there is no 628 bin - why is that? 

Thanks! 🙂

- S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Chuck! 👍 🙂

- S

Edit: @Chuck W - that didn't actually work for some reason - VS is telling me it's not there. 😞 Any chance you have a Dropbox link or something? All I can find is the 608, now. 😞 

Edited by Sommerfeldt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this