Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

[ArMiGer]

18 hours ago, Goupil said:

I did disconnect the fan today (mostly because of the noise 😅), didn't make a difference.

The lambda sign is flashing when I turn the key to pos II, but it stays lit when I start the flashing process (as it should).

Everything acts like it's working, but it doesn't want to flash, that's really odd...

I never used the Tuner Pro flasher. Always flashed with Motronic Suite with 100% success. Why not give it a try?

[Turboforslund]

Hi,

I'm wondering if the common ground between step-up and ECU power is the issue.  Have you done exactly as the instruction tells?  Any difference in pinout or power supply in between bench and car?  

Regarding the fan. That should not make a difference if it's on or disconnected but I turned the fan off thru a relay to avoid power consumption and noise. 

// Turboforslund

Edited April 18, 2021 by Turboforslund

[Goupil]

1 hour ago, ArMiGer said:

I never used the Tuner Pro flasher. Always flashed with Motronic Suite with 100% success. Why not give it a try?

Didn't ever thought about using Motronic Suite tbh, as I had never had any issue with TunerPro. Guess I can give it a try, nothing to lose there.

 

36 minutes ago, Turboforslund said:

Hi,

I'm wondering if the common ground between step-up and ECU power is the issue.  Have you done exactly as the instruction tells?  Any difference in pinout or power supply in between bench and car?  

Regarding the fan. That should not make a difference if it's on or disconnected but I turned the fan off thru a relay to avoid power consumption and noise. 

// Turboforslund

I'll go check my wiring again, but I think I got the ground to pin A13.
I'm sure IN+ is onto A27, as I only get power when the key is on. OUT+ goes to B8, OUT- goes nowhere.

There isn't much to my bench setup, an ebay 12V psu, a cut up OBD extender and some wires. It follows the schematic from the wiki, except I only plug one ground (usually on A42)

https://m44.fandom.com/wiki/ECU_Flashing?file=Ecuconnectorschamtic.jpg

I saw the relay fan mod, but since I don't do that much flashing I'll manually unplug the fan and avoid extra wiring.

 

[Midnight Caller]

OUT - is connected to the ground plane anyway as far as I remember (connected to IN -) so it shouldn't matter.
Anyway, seeing it work perfectly on the bench every time but not working in car baffles me

 

[Turboforslund]

Hi, 

Have you read the pages 481-483? It might bring some more knowlege or hints. 

I have a 850 from 1995 that do not have an OBD port at all. Maybe my own "OBD install" is a little less populated pin-wise than a stock OBD port (I do not know). Will anything like that have an influence for you as it seems to work perfect at the bench? 

// Turboforslund

Edited April 19, 2021 by Turboforslund

[Goupil]

Hi,

Thanks for the help

Haven't had time to do anything on the car yet as it's my daily, but I got the wiring diagram for my car. It's an European manual 98 V70 , which means it has an immo.

This is the OBD port (not sure if I'm allowed to share that here, I know Volvo policy about their wiring schematic is pretty strict...)

On an EU car the signal (pin 7 on the OBD) is going through through 4/22 to get to the B36 pin on the ECU (label 4/46B:36), whereas it's straight to the ECU on a NA market car.

I could not find a name for this 4/22 thing, but there's a drawing and it looks a lot like the immo ECU

This looks like it could be my issue. I'll do a little more digging on the schematics, and try a few more thing next saturday.

Edited April 20, 2021 by Goupil

[Turboforslund]

Excellent digging!  That might be it!  

Wonder if there are any benefits of having the OBD pin 7 going thru the immo? Interesting to see if a direct line to B36 would do it (at least during bootmode active).

Hope you find a working solution this weekend!  Good luck!

// Turboforslund

[ChristiaanW200]

you should disconnect the immo box and bypass the wire anyway. 

[Midnight Caller]

For what I can say, I also have the european model with IMMO3 and had no issues with flashing apart from some 10-20% write fails. I just stop the flashing process, restart it and it succeeds.

Maybe worth cleaning your ground points on the chassis too (measure the voltage drop between the battery minus lead and the ECU GND - it should be less than 100mV with ECU operational)

Edited April 23, 2021 by Midnight Caller

[razori]

Which bins in the Wiki are updated with @venderbroeck's mods? Are they updated at all since 2013? Or is there even a such bin available in general?

I know some have gotten their bins directly from @venderbroeck or from @Piet but it's a bit of a long shot since @venderbroeck is last seen ~2 year ago. And if I've interpreted correctly the mods are only for 607/608 bins? Or rather on the 608 since a +150 pages earlier it was a "common agreement" to ditch the 607 bin and focus on the 608.

And from that I can lead to my car which is -97 850 2.4T AWD and I'm currently running 0 261 204 457 ecu with 609 bin.

Nothing fancy changes on the bin -yet. Just injectors which are 613cc (stock ones where at 100% duty cycle at wot). Other mods to the car are 15G, 3" Dp + 2.5" catback and E85.

I'm also little bit baffled about he wideband. I know about the +0.2V offset because of the microprocessor, but which widebands ground I have to connect to A28 (A18 is a nogo, A19 is little bit better but A28 is the one above all..?), the cars rear or my external wb

 

edit: my wb is Innovate PLX Gen4 with bosch LSU 4.9 sensor

 

Edited April 23, 2021 by razori
wideband

[Midnight Caller]

Hello ! As I've read all over this topic, pin A19 is definitely not recommended for the WB connection. I've completely disconnected mine from the PCB.
My AEM UEGO WB has only one ground and I've connected it to the battery minus lead directly.

@venderbroeckand @Piet's mods are not public, who has them bought them. I for one bought the WB mod and the Boost threshold mod but still having issues with them. I think I'll ditch them and go for Aaron's ( @Tightmopedman9) solution, as none of them are replying my messages...

Didn't really catch your last phrase ( "the cars rear or my external wb ")

Later edit :

From what I've saw on the PCB, the power ground plane is on the back of the ECU and signal ground plane is on the upper side. They are tied toghether with through-holes, so from my measurements power GND and signal GND are connected to each other. It's clear that I don't recommend connecting anything that draws a high current on a signal GND pin, but for what's worth, connecting something like a boost pressure sensor ground can be done on any ground pin that is closer / easier to solder on.

Please correct me if I'm wrong (I've designed PCB's for ON Semiconductor for 8 years, but I still might miss something )

Edited April 23, 2021 by Midnight Caller

[razori]

Now that I've cleared my head everything is quite simple.

Modified the 609 bin since I have an LPT but it threw faulty wiring code between aw50 and m4.4. Funny actually since the car is manual.

Tried this:

On 5/23/2020 at 1:36 PM, Dangerous Dave said:

You can add it manually in tunerpro, it's not listed in the XDF normally.  Just add a new flag parameter and point it to 0xC8ED.  Then you can change it to 1 or 0 for manual or auto.

Fingers crossed it works

Sounds great, didn't work. Codes came up still.

Then I ditched the 609 bin and went for the 608 bin, copy/pasted the VE and ignition tables + did some other stuff and voilá!

It threw codes from the accelerometer, tank pressure sensor and from the outside temperature sensor. Disabled those, new flash and now completely code free. Idling fine with 613cc injectors.

Got some weird readings from the maf though.. At idle 9.6kg/hr have to double check everything tomorrow..

[razori]

Got the maf sorted, there was a leak under the idle control valve. Now maf is reading ~15kg/hr at idle after warm up cycle is completed.

Also the send "l" (lowecase L) command for the logging in tunerpro won't work. Have to send the logging commad via realterm but that's no biggie. What really bothers me is that the data logging rate is reeeeeaaaalllly slow.

When the engine is off the data rate is ok, around 20Hz but when I start the engine the data rate drops to around 2Hz.

All the usb drivers are up to date, baud rates ect are ok. Could it be the windows? I'm using win10

[Dangerous Dave]

On 4/24/2021 at 7:01 PM, razori said:

Now that I've cleared my head everything is quite simple.

Modified the 609 bin since I have an LPT but it threw faulty wiring code between aw50 and m4.4. Funny actually since the car is manual.

Tried this:

Sounds great, didn't work. Codes came up still.

That's because the auto/manual location in the 609 binary is different to the 608.

For the 609 binary add the flag parameter and point to 0xC8FC

 

22 hours ago, razori said:

Got the maf sorted, there was a leak under the idle control valve. Now maf is reading ~15kg/hr at idle after warm up cycle is completed.

Also the send "l" (lowecase L) command for the logging in tunerpro won't work. Have to send the logging commad via realterm but that's no biggie. What really bothers me is that the data logging rate is reeeeeaaaalllly slow.

When the engine is off the data rate is ok, around 20Hz but when I start the engine the data rate drops to around 2Hz.

All the usb drivers are up to date, baud rates ect are ok. Could it be the windows? I'm using win10

Can you post a screenshot of your Definition setup in tunerpro?  Post the ADX Header Data and the engage logging

[Yellow95]

I know that Aaron sets up his tunes where the cel will blink upon detonation.   Is there any way to make the CEL come on solid if the coolant reaches a certain temp?  Just curious.