Hi everyone, I'm new to the Volvo community and would love any help you could offer.
I purchased a 1994 850 Turbo last year with about 80K miles on it. Unbeknownst to me (and certainly my bad for not checking), the timing belt had never been changed.
Last week it snapped.
So I talked to my mechanic who said that despite this car having an interference engine, he's worked on 2 Volvos (similar years) that blew their timing belt and when he replaced the belt, low and behold, they fired right up. His suggestion was to spend the $23 for a belt and give it a try.
So I went through the entire process of installing the new timing belt. I made sure the marks lined up on both the intake and exhaust cams as well as the crank.
When I go to start the car though - it doesn't turn over. In fact, other than all the wheels that the belt runs over spinning, it does nothing. No firing, no noise - just the whir of the wheels spinning around.
So my question is this: I noticed that for every turn of the crank, the cams turn twice. Is it possible that one or the other, or both, of the cam wheels need to be turned exactly 360 degrees to fix the problem? My mechanic said that it's possible that the valves are open when cylinder 1 is at TDC and that's why it's not firing - because the cams are exactly 1 full turn off. Is this making sense? Is there any truth to this?
The walkthroughs I went through to do the belt assumed that I was pulling off an old belt and that those marks wouldn't be moving much during the change (certainly not a full turn) but in my case, who knows how many times each of those wheels spun around when the belt snapped.
Or am I overthinking this and if all 3 marks line up and the car doesn't start it's just plain dead? I would have thought that if the valves were messed up I'd at least hear something that sounded like the engine trying to do something but no - just those wheels spinning around - no activity at the top of the engine whatsoever.
Someone else suggested that maybe the timing is just off because the old belt had stretched out. I'm not a mechanic - I don't know how these things work...
The suggestion to figure out if valves may be open was to make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC by putting a screwdriver in socket 1 and spinning the crank until it's at full height - (I'm assuming it should be at TDC if the crank is on the timing mark - is this right?) - and then doing a leakdown test on that cylinder to see if air is blowing out either the intake or exhaust end - and whichever end is leaking, spin that wheel exactly 360 degrees back to the timing mark. In theory, if the valves aren't toast, then I shouldn't have air leaking through if everything is lined up correctly - yeah?
I'm hoping this car isn't completely toast but you'll know better than me.
Any thoughts? Suggestions?
I appreciate your consideration!
Searched Forum, lots on SPARK plugs, but nothing (I could find) on VVT plugs.
After replacing exhaust VVT, I noticed the gear/hub was turning very rough, throughout its small range of rotation ... an awful, metal-to-metal type of feel. Didn't seem right at all.
Knew I hadn't overtorqued the camshaft screw (88 ft-lb), but figured I'd better remove the hub. Took out the plug, and, lo-and-behold, the binding was gone. Put the plug back in, and ... binding again! The plug is actually bottoming out on the screw head. This can't be by design. Does this binding go away when the cavity is pressurized? Was there a spacer that fell out when I removed the old hub? It's the same part number I took out, Volvo OEM 9497786: IPD and eEuro say it fits, FCP says it does not.
Anyone else experienced this?
By JA VOLVO
I have 2 Hub assemblies for 850/70 front hubs. They are part# 274378. They are brand new. I bought them for my old 98 C and never installed them. According to Tasca they will fit 94-97 850 and 98 s/v/c70. I thought they would fit my 2000, but no...
I would love to trade them even for 2 for my 2000 C, PN 272456 as they are the same price based on Tasca. I would pay shipping both ways.
Otherwise, $125 each shipped CONUS, or $225 shipped for the pair CONUS.
So today at a gas station I notice coolant flowing on the ground from under my car. Upon a quick inspection I believe it's the water pump (coming from above front passenger cv boot). Luckily I was able to make it home without any problems.
I just hit 300k miles so I was planning on doing a complete timing belt job with vivas Kevlar belt kit.
i was just wondering what's the best guide people have used, and does anyone have any advice or tips before I dive in as this will be my first time tackling this. Thanks in advance everyone!
2000 V70R 145K. Just got it a few weeks ago. The previous owner rebuilt the engine about 5K ago. I have a recurring P0014 code. Went to dealer, they said it was the CVVT solenoid (I had my doubts, but...I let them replace it) after about 50 miles, the 0014 code came back. They said that the hub was OK, but I don't know if they checked the timing. The car is sluggish with the code set, but seems better if I reset it (or when they did it at the dealership).
Does anyone have any suggestions about what I can look at? Possibly Cam Position Sensor?
Thanks in advance.