Turns out long time lurker 1st time poster. Figured this would be the place to go with a pretty specialised problem as the m4.4 people are here.
This is the car I've owned for 12 years now:
it's not super sexy but it's mine. i have a 164TE, 1800E, 2 C202s and another almost identical 850 except a wagon (very early production 93 model also)
It started life as a 2.0 20V auto which is not bad if you're prepared for the tacho to visit 3PM frequently but through circumstance I got a B5254S and an M56 from a 2.0 (4.45 final drive) and that made the car actually faster than I anticipated. I drove it like that for 6 years but the engine was tired and blowing more smoke than I was comfortable with. About 3 years ago a valve chipped so I threw another head on and drove it for another year but then the week before I was scheduled to fly out to Australia for 2 months it chipped another valve and so I decided the time had come. I already had a B5244T3 sitting aside and I had already rebuilt a 16T turbo for it so last summer I finally put the car on blocks in the backyard and ripped the engine out. Over the winter I did a stage zero on the B5244T3 and rebuilt the steering rack while I had the subframe out to fix a leak and also got access to a full 98 xc70 so took everything relevant to the M4.4 setup from it and worked it onto the B5244T3. Finally, this May just gone I had everything ready and started putting the car back together and after working slowly on it the past 2 months On Thursday I was finally ready to turn the key for the 1st time. My 1st actual attempt to start it failed and so I did checks and the 1st thing I found was that the injectors only pulse for about a second before turning off but then when I release the key an injector or 2 fire once. This happens every time I crank. I tried several very short cranks and the car actually fired up! I ran it for about 20 mins and after about 5 mins the lambda light came on but there's no surprise there as there are no o2 sensors yet as there is still no exhaust and the ecu is an auto one so that might also have thrown the code but the car did run for about 20 mins but then i turned it off and so far haven't been able to get it running again.
This is how the engine bay looks right now:
So, I think if you've read this far you can probably figure what my question is but I'll ask anyway: Would anyone have an idea what's going on? To recap, when the car is cranking, the injectors fire for maybe a second then stop but then when I stop cranking an injector or 2 may fire again. I've checked power to the ecu and on cranking I get 10.4V which I guess should be enough and I cleaned all of the contacts between the battery and ecu quite well so I don;t think it's an issue of power. Things I'm about to do are check spark to see if I lose spark too or just injectors and then maybe throw a cam sensor and crank sensor in desperation but I'm hoping someone has either encountered this before or has enough of an idea of how the M4.4 system works to help me figure this out. BTW I do have a video of it happening but not sure how to post it here. But yeah, If you have any questions about converting a 2.0 NA auto car to a turbocharged manual then feel free to ask
I'm gearing up for a manual swap this weekend. In the process of making my list and checking it twice, I've noticed that I'm missing the hose that connects the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder. I can't find that part anywhere, and all the part numbers I have for it are discontinued. Has anyone else ran into this problem?
I'm looking into swapping my auto to manual in my 99 S70 T5.
I'm in the process of sourcing parts and came across an M56 gearbox from a 2001 C70 2.4
My question is would this gearbox work? Are all M56 gearboxes the same regardless of its paired engine?
I know that there is a M56H and an M56L, but from what I read I gather either will be fine, its just a final drive ratio difference between the 2.
Ideally I was looking for an M56 from a 1999 or 2000 S70 T5 so I'll know for sure that it'll work, but that's hard to find.
OK, I'm stumped. Fuel line & control pressure are good (76/34 psi). Lambda Sond system checks out (frequency valve buzzing, ohms ok, all voltages on controller plug ok), new O2 sensor. Spark ok on each spark plug. Cold start injector sprays. Throttle body, flame trap cleaned. Air filter, fuel filter changed. Air flow disk centered and at level spec. All grounds & connector contacts (everywhere) cleaned. Fuel pump hot & ground wiring replaced with 10 ga.
TDC was checked with dowel and as seen in pics, cam pulley notch lines up with cam cover notch, aux gear (oil pump/distributer gear) is lined up with belt mark (no pic) and crank pulley notch lines up with block mark. Remanufactured distro's rotor is just before #1 plug wire.
However, when cranking, only a slight "huff huff huff" is heard. Although admittedly not at idle speed when cranking, the timing light shows #1 firing about an inch before the top lower belt, or approx. 135 degrees retarded.
"Dammit Jim, I'm not a mechanic, I'm an audio engineer!" I've gone as far as logic, Chilton, the green books and Bentley can take me. I'm hoping the deep experience on this forum can help with suggestions.
Back story: Car ran great for six years through upper midwest extremes. Choked to a stop one morning. Towed to a "performance shop" that had worked on the car before. They said gunk in the tank had clogged the in-tank pump sock and the pump had burned out and taken the pump relay with it. Replaced pump with new pump & sock from IPD + relay. Shop then said it needed a new aux air valve. Replaced that and it would start, but it would die under load. They told me it was a bad engine design and they were done it. I managed to get it home by revving it in low and doing two blocks at a time. The main pump was complaining loudly, so I replaced that, but no joy and low (18/38 psi) control & line pressures.
Thinking the problem must be downstream, I replaced the fuel filter, blew out the lines, had the WUR and fuel dist re-built, etc. etc. In the end, it turned out the in-tank pump from IPD had impressive flow, but not sufficient psi for the main pump. Installed new in-tank pump = all fuel pressure specs good. Oddly, now it wouldn't start at all. I wanted to make sure the timing was correct, so I replaced the timing belt and tensioner, distro, cap/rotor and coil. Nope. Also swapped an ICU from a salvage pull. No change.
Any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated!
Note: the 1979 244 DL doesn't have a MAF, crank sensor, throttle switch, Hall sensor or IAC. The engine is a B21F-5 with K-Jetronic.
By Ol' Dirty Noodle
Selling my 97 850 na 5spd, car has unknown mileage I'd ballpark it between 150k-200k
has a couple small oil leaks
needs front left axle
most of the panels are good (black)
headliner is sagging
front suspension is blown
car would be great for a manual swap parts car and to pull some NA parts from and spare body panels. I'll get pics up later today. Car is located in Hempstead NY could be driven a short distance.
$600 last chance before it gets scrapped next week