12 posts in this topic
+ Dura Choice Dual Range Pressure Gauge $11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G0096RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
+ 1/4 NPT to 1/4 barb $3
+ 10ft of 1/4 hose from hardware store $4
+ >1ft of 1/8 silicone hose from harware store $.5
+ Vacuum couplers from O'rielly's $3
+ Vacuum cap from hardware store FREE
+ Zipties $1
+ Spring clamp $.5
Everything is pretty simple except for the vent tube I implemented at the top of the gauge as opposed to the stock brass pin made for venting the gauge. I did this because the gauge is glycerin filled and any variation in altitude pressure or temperature would cause the gauge to read inaccurately and would require venting while installed in the car which is not something I am willing to do while driving. My solution to this was pretty simple, I removed the stock brass cap in the rubber plug on the top of the gauge and replaced it with a 1/8 vacuum coupler and attached the 1/8 silicone hose to the other end of it and looped it a few times to ensure that no glycerin would escape. I held to hose in place with zipties and placed another 1/8 couple at the other end of it with a vinyl vacuum cap over the other end with a small hole cut into it, so that it may act as a restrictor for any large particles trying to enter the hose. both ends of said hose are clamped with zipties. This will allow constant venting, ensuring accuracy.
Finished Product: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BA2ycq3XDxJe0doTb5GBYMuunkNBCtqEtA not a .bmp, promise ;)
I will post an update when installed, for now, is this the best economy gauge you've seen? Also, mods, if this is in the wrong category, I'm sorry. Also, the reason I used a link is because for some reason the images were not being uploaded in house. (sorry!)
It's installed! : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15MbmpnALHCw7iYzMBPqZ7rXP5w6jtLVHfQ/view?usp=sharing
Hey guys, having a frustrating problem with my s70. After installing new outer tie rods, ball joints, iPd bars and pressing new bushings into '93 arms, I had the car aligned, only to have it pull to the left. I took it back and found that one of the control arms had shifted rearward on the bushings. I fixed the bushing issue so they are secure, and had it re-aligned. Guess what? Still pulls left. I took it back again, stupidly offering to pay to have it aligned again just to get it dealt with. Still pulls left! I decided to take it to another shop after asking to see the alignment sheet and figuring out they weren't touching the rear as it "was not adjustable". As we all know, it is. Lesson learned; don't take fwd Volvos to Rockland Tire in Monsey. The second shop aligned it properly, starting with the rear delta links. Still pulls left. Must be a fluke, took it back: still pulls.
At this point I don't even want to drive the car, this little issue is driving me nuts. It's a slight pull on the highway, enough that it isn't very noticeable unless you take your hands off the wheel, but in stop and go traffic the wheel wants to "roll" to the left as you come to a stop. That, and I know it's there so I can't be satisfied :P
One thing I noticed when adjusting the arms was that the front DS subframe bolt seems to be pushed back slightly. This would in theory cant the whole front of the car to the left, though I would think with alignment that wouldn't matter, or it would show up in alignment. Could this be the source of my issue? Now that I write about it and review the pictures it seems obvious that it could be, but I'd like to get some input before I spend any more time dealing with this issue.
EDIT: it occurs to me that if the subframe shifted back on the left, the bolt would be relatively moved forward. So maybe this isn't relevant.
Got an offer from a friend that I couldn't refuse. Trade in that they weren't going to keep and send to the auto auction. 900USD is what I paid for it.
1997 T-5 wagon,automatic trans,133k,no rust. Just a crack on the passenger side rear bumper corner. Two lights were on the dashboard. Replaced the third light bulb and added coolant to the plastic reservoir took care of the two dash lights. I'll have and ask plenty of questions,this is my first Volvo.
Of course I can't leave anything stock for long,so I'll have some questions on that also. LOL!!
I've been around this forum and good old S40Concepts for many years. Decided to share my project with you guys.
It's 1998 S40 T4.
This car has mileage about 400 000+ km's.
I don't know exact mileage, because in Estonia car sellers used to fake these numbers. I bought it with 170k km's.
I've driven about 160k km's with it as it was a daily driven car. Last 5 years it has been in my friends' garages where I've worked on it.
So, it's pretty good shape considering the age and rough winters it has lived through.
Dynoed 430 hp / 550 nm this summer.
It has been good to me. Never broken down, I've driven over 8000 km's this year. I have to thank my tuner for this. I guess hardware has been good, too.
Managed to win at Estonian 1 mile race in A class (upto 2 litre turbo and 3,5 litres NA cars): 275 km/h / 171 mph.
My rev limiter is at 280 km/h (7000rpm).
7500 rpm should take me to 300 km/h :) Unfortunately, for that I have to travel to Germany.
So, here goes the mods list:
- B4194T engine
- B4194T2 cylinder head with stock camshafts
- Megasquirt 3 ECU
- Holset HX35 #12 divided @2,2 bar
- Autoverdi forged conrods
- Autotech modified pistons
- Stiffer valve springs
- Aluminum valve retainers
- Tial MVS 38mm external v-band wastegate (15psi spring)
- KKD Motorsports custom divided exhaust manifold
- Custom 3" exhaust with 1 middle resonator and rear muffler - pretty quiet :)
- Stock T4 wastespark coils, BCR8ES spark plugs
- China 600x300x63 intercooler and custom piping - no-boost/high-boost difference is just few degrees
- Bosch 1000cc injectors @3bar fuel pressure
- Adjustable Mallory FPR
- Walbro 255lph intank pump + 2x Walbro external pumps
- 2L Fuel surge tank
- 8mm fuel return line
- BC Racing coilovers
- SuperPro poly bushings
- Ultra Racing 19mm anti-roll bar
- Custom front strut bar
- Polyurethan lower engine mounts
- M56 gearbox
- Quaife LSD
- Sachs 707 pressure plate
- 850R clutch disc
- 850 flywheel
- Battery relocated to the trunk
- 20mm turbo oil return line
- AEM large air filter
- Mercedes van custom water radiator
- Subaru WRX front seats
- Alcantara covered dashboard
EGTs under 800C @25C outside temps at fullboost run.
Intake temp about 30C @25C outside temp at fullboost. Temp is decreasing when going faster at fullboost. Pretty good cooler.
I am sure I've forgotten many details. It's been a long time...
First dyno after the build, mapping to 2 bar
275 kmh run on 1 mile:
Little burnout at the start of the same run:
I will post more photos another day.
Btw, managed to outrun these nice cars this year:
Mercedes-Benz SL 55 AMG 5.5K (550hj)
Porsche 911 996 Turbo 3.6T (420hj)
Audi R8 5.2 (520hj)
Bmw M5 4.9 (400hj)
Chevrolet Corvette 6.2 (455hj)
Audi S7 4.0T (420hj)
Ford Mustang 4.6K (390+hj)
Bmw M5 5.0 (507hj)
Porsche Cayman S
Lamborghini Gallardo 5.0 (520hj)
Audi S4 2.7T (416hj)
Porsche Panamera 4.8T (500hj)
Bmw M3 4.0 (420hj)
Mercedes-Benz E55 5.4K (500hj)
Audi S5 3.0K (400hj)
MB CL63 AMG 6.3 (444hj)
Audi RS6 4.2T (450hj)
Dyno reads in wheel kw and nm.
Every time I look up a Volvo compression test, it's always the people with horrible compression (90-125). I was wondering what VS has on their cars. Hopefully better!
Edit: including mileage in a post would be nice