12 posts in this topic
EFI - 242 Turbo control valve signal CEL
1997 850R running motronic 4.4, 2001 RN engine I got a code that keeps coming up, not sure of the cause. I deleted the ptc element and put a pipe on with just a bung for the tcv line. My stft is great but code EFI - 242 (turbo control valve signal) pops up almost as quickly as I clear it with the car running, now I have not been able to drive it to see what symptoms it exhibits (overboost, underboost etc.) I will be able to do that tomorrow. I checked resistance of the tcv and it comes to around 28 ohms which I have read online as a pretty normal value. Anyone have any ideas? The tcv has been on the last 2 weeks with not even the slightest hint that there was a code, I fixed my fuel trim issue today and it just popped up like it was waiting for me. All lines are silicone and have been checked many times, very stumped on this. Thanks
SNABB performance intake review
did a little review of my new snabb air intake...the plastic pipe going to turbo was falling apart on 98 s70 t5.....
great build quality.... SNABB silicon is the perfect size... not super tight like other brands.... definitely faster spool up..... the aluminum tube is somewhat bigger then the oem plastic tube...
also used bms catch can from burger tuning... quality product... easy to drain...big input and output ports.... high flow catch can.... i think i used 1/2 inch diamter heater hose to connect.
A/C compressor leaking
Hey guys, I was recently given a 98 s70, white on black, auto, glt, pretty low mileage @ 104k. Car sat for a few years, older couple wanted to see it go into good hands. Anyway, my plans with this car are to do as little as possible, I really just want a car that works and I don't have to spend lots of time on. So far everything checks out, car runs really smooth and quiet (minus a p0455 I'm going to have to track down ), but the A/C doesn't work. Why Volvo didn't put high and low ports I don't know, but I figured after sitting for a few years most of the freon could have easily escaped past the compressor shaft seal. Put my gauges on the car and add a little r13 in, AC starts blowing cold, great. Few days later, warm air. Took my UV light and everything looks good except the compressor, lots of yellow dye around the two ends of the compressor that bolt to the main housing. Is this a regular place for the compressors to leak? Just a question of age/hardened o-rings/seals? Is there anything I can do short of putting stop leak in to improve this situation? The low port cap was missing, so I've put one on. I figure a little gas could have escaped from there, if it sat for a few days maybe enough to make a difference. I have a spare used compressor I bought on ebay a while ago, genuine volvo, and testing it with the UV light it shows the same dye at the seals between the compressor body and end caps, just less. I don't know if some amount is normal, or it just simply means the compressor is leaking and will gradually let all the gas out. Any advice is appreciated.
List of Performance Products you wish a company made for modern Volvos
By Dump Umm
Im really just interested in hearing a list of what performance products are the most common that people have to modify/make themselves that you wish a company already made that was a direct fit? Please include part or description of part and what vehicle if specific it would pertain too. Thanks
Volvo 850 engine rebuild
Thought i'd just post up a thread on what I've been tinkering with since November last year. It's an original 850 T5r from 1995 with about 350 000km on it. The engine is not the original, not sure exactly what year it is, but it's a B5234T5 "1DDDDD" block with an boring automatic lump attached to it. Car stood still for two years, fired right up, fixed a couple of things and drove it about 4 or 5 months until the engine bent a rod or two, knock knock! I suspect it being a bad tune or something, because when the engine broke the boost gauge was reading 1,7 bars and going nuts. So i let of the throttle asap but it was to late. Towed it home and started ordering parts to start this project.
Plan is to make it an affordable, reliable Oem+ car with the right mods, keeping things tidy and clean under the hood and make it mechanically perfect. Exterior cosmetics are not getting to much attention, atleast yet.
Mod list: Forged rods Toga main bearings Manual swap Oem R-clutch Kinugawa 20t turbocharger with stock exhaust housing TA Technix coilovers (cheap) do88 Rip kit Green injectors 3"all the way, downpipe w/o cat BSR open air intake New rear and front axle bushings New vacuum and coolant hoses all over Gaskets everywhere are new Catch can from eBay (not yet mounted) New steering rack with hoses HID high beam setup R-maifold Pictures to follow
My DD and the T5r
Let the games begin
This nastiness won't stay for long
Minimal wear on the cylinders, the lip on the top did not even catch my nail, its just dirty. Will ofc be honed, had a shop do this
Standard headbolt problem... they break. Had the rest drilled out at a machine shop and helicoiled it.
Tedious cleaning of parts, a lot of thinner and patience
Was said this engine had about 200 000km on it. If it does it's had some sloppy oil intervals
The only damages i could find. Results of a bent rod. Piston kisses crank, knock knock
Rod bearings looked pretty new, replaced them anyways ofc, however to my suprise the main bearings were done. Didnt know that was a wear item at 200 000km?
Cylinder head getting some love
Stupid cheap valve compressor tool scratched the walls for the hydraulic lifter cups, re honed the surface. The cup floats nicely now, hope it holds up.
Thinner, toothbrush, gasket remover and time.. really boring but great result
Grinding valve seats diy style with some valve grinding paste. This took so long i was watching netflix on the pc while doing this, hehe
Reinstalling valve stem seals and valves
More gasket remover and probably 3 hours+++ of scraping, not done in this pic
Made the manifold shiny and stuff
Same goes for the power steering pump and tensioner etc.
New parts, used parts and finished parts, a nice mix
The car is ofc waiting outside, kind of cramped in here
Bought a parts car for the manual swap and all the other little things
Rear engine'd 850 on stock suspension, cant even tell its there lol
A bit of work on the gearbox and it's like new
I believe this engine we had laying around was the original engine in this car. This one also suffered from a bent rod. I took it apart hoping to be able to use two pistons out of it so i could replace the damaged ones.
holy stuff, there was 1cm deep crap on the bottom
(Dont mind the height diff) If you look closely the area around the wrist pin and the wrist pin its self is not the same and valve groves (above) also differed slightly. Decided to reuse old pistons.
While waiting on parts i decided to clean up the subframe and change a bad bushing
Looked like this after i attacked it with a wire brush and sanding paper
New steering rack with hoses
Messy, but it's actually clean
Installed HID ballast under the battery tray, stealth mode. The other one i placed inside the ecu tray, hope it doesn't disturb anything?
Had this car for 2 years, it's a 2.2. Wanted something faster so i sold it..
And bought my dream car, the almighty e39 m5, it goes like stink! The depo headlights are gonna go, hella's are coming.
This is why many people and now I myself don't recommend buying toga bearings. Look at this retarded packaging! This is not candy they are selling, its an vital engine component and the decide to pack it like this?!
Has been rubbing all the way from Tokyo or something. I did however use the toga bearings on my crank since they actually made it with insignificant damage, but these rod bearings i returned. Went the safe way and got Oem ones and why not if they last 200 000km?
Parts started appearing so reassembly of the engine began
Cleaned up and ready
A lot of prep. Never done this so i wanted to do it right the first time
Mounted, torqued and spinning perfectly
Grinding the ring end gaps to an even spec
Home made ring gap grinder, looks tacky yes but it really worked. All the rings have straight cuts!
Figured this should work okay for my setup, will be adding a catch can to support (if any) added crank case pressure
Rod small end bore was to tight for the wrist pins. They had to get some machinig done to fit. Sent the block, pistons and rods for assembly at a machine shop
Bought the ARD 19t upgrade kit, but changed my mind and bought a Kinugawa 20t on ebay. Reused my exhaust housing
Sandblasted and painted
Got the engine back and things went really fast, lacking some pics here
R-manifold upgrade, oem
You just have to get a engine tilt in order to do this, it is SOO much easier to maneuver. Me and my friend had the engine seated in 5 minutes
Looks done, but it's not. Still need to bleed the clutch, and route some vaccum lines, wires and other small things
Started the engine yesterday for the first time (Sorry no video) and it started immediantly, however a loud ticking noise from the head was present, was expecting that since the oil channels has to fill up so I fearlessly let it run and hoped for it to go away. The Car ran for a bit while i was listening to another interesting noise coming from the timing belt. While studying it i noticed that the ticking had gone away and all i could hear was that sweet mechanical harmony from the head. No ticking or strange noises what so ever. The timing belt noise was the timing belt tensioner that i reused, seems like it did not survive. A new one is on it's way. The belt was moving sideways on the cogs back and forth, lucky it didn't jump off. After this is fixed i will have the wheels alligned and get the "mot" done so i can have my plates and drive off wherever.
One last thing, i need a good tune/remap/chip i really have little knowledge on the difference, but i need a custom tune that is specific for my setup.
Any advice? I know ARD has, but i'm located in Norway so i'd like something that's closer. A little worried to run this ecu since i suspect i might have something to do with the bent rods and overboost etc.
That's all I have for now