12 posts in this topic
IPD Volvo 850/S70 Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer
NEW IPD Volvo 850/S70 Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer kit. Complete with new bolts and gaskets and instruction manual.
$55.00. Price includes shipping to lower 48 CONUS. IPD list these for $79.95 https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5210...anifold-spacer
850-S/V70 T5M 5-spd swap parts
I have several Volvo 850/S/V70 5 speed manual transmission swap parts to sell. I am not interested at this time in splitting them up and selling them individually. This would make a great deal for someone looking to collect the parts to do a 850 T5M swap as only a transmission and flywheel need to be sourced. My transmission was destroyed in transit and I was going to go with a new OEM flywheel, but never got that far so my loss is your gain. The pedal box is specific to the Volvo 850 only and will NOT fit the S/V70 series. All other parts I have been told, will fit the S/V70 series. Please do your own research and as always your mileage may vary. Shipping is for inside CONUS lower 48 and is estimated at 40 lbs. Will need to ship more than one box due to size of shifter assembly and clutch. Please do not ask me for a shipping quote to your zip as you can easily research and find out an estimate..UPS will be used. You will pay actual shipping only guaranteed! Parts are located at 29579 Myrtle Beach, SC. $375.00 or OBO+shipping. Please don't waste my time or yours with silly lowball offers as we are all grown ups here and know how hard it is to source some of these parts. Pressure plate had some very light storage rust spots, they have been cleaned and cannot be felt with the finger nail. They are superficial and only mentioned because they are there. See pictures.
Parts in following pictures are OEM suppliers for Volvo and include:
Clutch friction plate,pressure plate,throwout bearing,flywheel bushing. New and old clutch master cylinder/w attached hoses and hardline. Slave cylinder new, 850 Pedal box used, 5 spd. shifter assembly with center console base and shifter cables used.
This was going to go into a 97 854R with an 18T/ARD T5M M4.4 tune. I am an old man and as such have decided that this will be my DD with an Look at me, I think I am witty transmission.
S70R Engine Build and GTX3XXXXR
Hello again dear members!
As some of you know I've been running the GTX2867R with my internally stock S70R B5234T4 engine.
The car has been running great and as stated in my other thread I was able to squeeze close to 400hp with this turbo and setup, with my other supporting mods and with my own tunning. It has been proven that 400hp are achievable with stock rods provided supporting mods are there and most importantly provided the tune is GOOD enough for that. Reliability also seems to be ok so far. I've made close to 12.000km with this power and the engine already had 338.000km before that!
The engine has now 351.000km and I'm starting to look for the future. I want to keep this car not only because I love it, because it's rare but also because I have already put a lot of money into it during the last years and I will never get that value back if I sell this car. Well, maybe I would get it within 20 or 30 year and this car is be a great classic (maybe not :) ).
I know this engine will not last forever. Even if it did the cylinder walls have seen at this point 351.000km so they are wearing out for sure and to keep these kind of power and reliability I don't want to continue using an engine with increasing cylinder wall wear. And also if I want to go a step further in terms of Nm and Hp, I'm now (most likely) on the edge of what a stock engine can handle. So, my engine is now a limiting factor if I want to increase power...and you know, we "turn the boost up" once and we just want to keep it up and up and up...
About cylinder walls wear, actually I made a few compression tests last week and the numbers were reallyyyy weird. With the engine cold and dry, I got around 125psi across all the cylinder except for the 5th cylinder where I got around 135/140psi.
When hot, the results were pretty much the same. When hot and wet, the compression only went up by 10/15 psi.
The 2 weird things were:
1. Really low compression in every situation. I've done a compression test about 40.000km ago and it was around 175psi on all cylinders.
2. When wet, the compression didn't go up that huge as it would be expected on an engine with considerable cylinder wall wear. So, it's seems hard/weird to conclude that the compression is really lower than supposed.
Maybe this cheap compression gauge is not that good and is giving lower values than it should. What is interesting is that the car simply pulls hard and hard and I've never noticed any performance reduction. The only issue is the clutch that from time to time can't handle the torque, specially when this turbo boosts a bit above 20psi at medium rpm (which produces more than 500Nm).
Anyway, I was already thinking about a build so I'm not bothering about the apparently ghost low compression issue.
So, I sourced an engine (B5234T) from a 850 T5 which should arrive this week or next one and the plan is to rebuild this engine while my stock one is still in the car so I can keep the car running during all (or almost) the building time.
At this moment I still have doubts about a few things that I should do and/or use.
So, let's go into the build itself:
Engine: B5234T (from a 850 T5)
Goal: 450 to 500 crank hp (so, 400 to 450 whp).
Turbo: Probably a GTX3076R or at the most a GTX3582R. I think the GTX3076R could give me around 470/480 crank hp without maxing it out and without loosing so much low/medium rpm spool as I would certainly loose with the 3582R. I think the 3076R would max out around 510-530hp. I don't want a maxed out turbo because efficiency will be bad as hell and in hotter days that will tend to result in much higher knock events.
Still deciding which turbo and also the exhaust housing. With the 3076R, Should I go with the .63 T3 or the .82 T3 (both internally wastegated)? Wouldn't the .63 T3 be enough for 450-500hp and still provides great low/medium rpm spool?
Another question, I know GTX3071R clears the back engine mount. I think the 3076R would also clear it, right (the compressor housing has the same dimensions I guess)?
Another thing that pulls me back from the 3582R is the need to get a custom exhaust mani because it would not clear engine mount and/or maybe the firewall. Right?
Rods: I'll probably use BSR forged rods (and arp bolts of course) -> http://en.bsr.se/product/con_rod_volvo_m63113950001
Rod bearings: I think I'll stick with new OEM rod bearings. Good idea? From what I've searched, stock bearings are usually ok even with this kind of power. There a few situations of problems with aftermarket bearings.
Pistons: This is one of my main doubts. Wisecos are well known but there are tons of situations of cracked and totally broken wiseco pistons. lookforjoe V70 is one of the examples. All the 5 pistons were cracked and one was actually broken.
For my goal, I guess new stock OEM pistons would be enough. Right? If not, what kind of solutions do I have? There are a few piston manufactors that do custom pistons but I don't know if it worth it.
Cams: Both intake and exhaust N/A cams (which I already have)
Valve lifters: The stock hydraulic ones (they have been proven to be good up to 7000-7400rpm). I will not rev more than 7000rpm.
Cylinders will be checked and very likely bored (corresponding oversize bore and pistons will be chosen then).
Head will likely be ported and polished
I'll keep the R exhaust manifold
Inlet manifold: There is people that achieved 500hp with the stock inlet manifold (and with no porting job I assume). Will the stock inlet mani be enough?
MAF: BMW MAF (which I already have it running) should be enough for it.
Injectors: 730cc @ 4 bar bosch injectors should also be enough
I'll keep do88 intercooler and reverse piping
Flywheel, clutch and gearbox:
The S70R has the M59 gearbox with viscous couple diff and also the dual mass flywheel (DMF). The M59 diff was perfectly enough for 400hp. Never had any traction problems in 3rd or higher gears. Of course in 1st and 2nd gear we need to have a bit of reduced boost to have better grip but I believe we would need it even with a quaife diff because on those lower gears the wheel multiplied torque is just huge. Furthermore, I don't want the car to run 1/4 mile all day and being crazy with 1/4 mile numbers.
So, my only concerns are the clutch/pressure plate and DMF. I know DMFs are more prone to problems than solid flywheels (SMF). I also know/guess DMF should be replaced from time to time (usually when clutch is also replaced).
I'm thinking about running the R disc with the 707 sachs pressure plate as it has been proven to be a great combo for high outputs. This would be the cheapest solution and the more user friendly clutch combo regarding driveability. Of course the flywheel (DMF or SMF) will have to be repined. There's no fitting issue about using the 707 pressure plate and the M59 right?
My main doubts are lying on the flywheel:
Should I get a SMF as they are less prone to fail or just stick with the DMF? In case the answer is to stick with the DMF, should I keep the current DMF or replace it by a new one?
Wouldn't I get gearbox rattle with the SMF? Wouldn't the SMF lead to add vibration and problems on the gearbox?
So, just to summarize and help you answering and helping me, the main doubts are:
1. Pistons (OEM?)
2. Rod bearings (OEM?)
3. Turbo: Engine mount clearance with the 3076R ; exhaust housing size (.63 vs .82)
4. Stock inlet mani (Enough?)
5. Flywheel: DMF vs SMF (pros and cons, rattles, gearbox issues)? ; 707pp + M59 no fitting problem right?
I'm sorry for this extremelly long post but I think this is the status and the current main doubts. More will come for sure.
I hope that all of you can give me valuable inputs about these matters, especially the more experienced users out there.
Thank you all!
2000 Volvo V70XC Not Running
I purchased a 2000 Volvo V70 XC off eBay that was listed as not running with a crank no start condition. This was not the case, after getting the vehicle home and attempting to crank it over with a fresh battery I found the engine was locked up. After borrowing a bore scope it looks like the tops of the pistons are corroded due to coolant infiltration from a blown head gasket. Anyhow the vehicle is overall in pretty good cosmetic shape and would make a nice ride with a bit of TLC. I don't have the time and resources to replace the engine with a good used unit. I'm asking $700 for the car and open to reasonable offers. If you have any questions drop me a PM. Car is located in Milton, Delaware.
Click link below for more photos of car.
S70 T5 DIY Xenon HID Projector headlight conversion
I was thinking about headlights and how I wanted something different and by that I do not mean aftermarket Blurple HID installations that scream pull me over or look at me!!! So while I was reading up on the subject it seams a lot of folks compare aftermarket HID setups with high-end vehicle setups like this one from a 5 series BMW.
So I went to the Bone yard and scavenged some nicer looking S70 headlight assemblies, and pulled some BMW ballasts, and also the reflector/ projector assemblies.
So it would seem the two are marginally compatible.
So I ended up with 4 Ballasts, grand total was $60 CA
And here it is almost finished.
And the light test.
And this is with the high beams on.
Once I get everything wired up properly and installed in the car I will ad a Picture of the car :)
Just wanted to thank everyone on hear again for there inspiration, this modification is not as difficult as one might think, but suffice it to say if I didn't go to the wrecking yard and drop $60 and disassemble everything to check fitment I would have never attempted this, I combine my ADHD and boredom and sometimes I come up a winner.