12 posts in this topic
Just installed new PCV into a S90, thought I share some step by step. I have done this on the 850 but on the S90 it seems more complicated getting the intake manifold out because of the engine orientation. You should take photos of everything you take apart if this is your first time so you remember how to put it back together.
Also, the PCV parts, I noticed some volvo dealers are selling 1993 960 for less than $40 online. Looking at the diagram it appears to be the same for the S90 at a much lower price. I wished I knew before buying the parts.
1) remove the power steering reservoir will give you more space to reach the left two bolts to take the manifold off.
the power steering reservoir 3x 12mm bolts are behind the round pulley, there are access holes on the pulley but you also need to take the serpentine belt off.
2) you may need to remove the thermostat housing too. (2 T-40)
3) open the blue cap at the end of the fuel rail, press the valve to lower fuel pressure. Gas will spill out so put a towel there.
4) remove the throttle cable assembly (two pieces) 5x 10mm bolts.
5) now you have room to take the fuel rail aluminum cover off, and gently pull on the fuel injectors to remove the fuel rain completely. disconnect any cables and vacuum
hoses that get in the way. take photos so you remember how to put it back together.
6) remove the air filter box cover, remove the air intake snorkel, and the big plastic elbow connecting the throttle body. Lots of wires and vacuum hoses to disconnect. take photos before you pull that apart.
7) now begin to remove a bunch of 10mm bolts holding the intake manifold to the block. they're on top, bottom, and one 13mm NUT at the very bottom that's very difficult to get to by touch only. Some of those 10mm bolts are hidden, so take a flash light and look! when they are all removed the manifold will move and you can pull it out.
8) Once the intake manifold is out you can see your intake valves, look for any gunk built up on top of the valves and clean gently as necessary.
9) unbolt 10mm from the PCV breather box. along with connecting vacuum hoses. Check the vacuum tree, it has 6 ports, only one is unused with a cap. My vacuum cap was cracked with holes probably causing a vacuum leak. Check and replace the vacuum cap and any replace any old vacuum hoses. They're cheap and local autopart store carry them.
10) Most difficult was getting some of those 10mm bolts off the manifold, and that 13mm nut way at the bottom. There are also some space issues moving everything out of the way to get to the PCV. Give yourself a good 5 hours because those 10mm and the 13mm can ruin your day.
By Cori Nicole
So this is gonna take a lot of explaining, please hang in there with me.
I recently bought a 02 Volvo s40 1.9t, shortly after buying it, it needed some work done so I took it to a mechanic around here who boasts about his skill with imports. When I got my car back for the small fix, he informed that he accidentally broke my MAF in the process. He proceeded to tell me to drive it for 20-30 miles and the new MAF should acclimate itself to my car and the rough idle should go away, didn't trust it but I had somewhere I had to be so I left. I drove it for about 120 miles and not only did the idle/running rough problem get worse a check engine light came on. I pulled over and checked the codes and I got misfire on all cylinders and a dreaded p0171 code. I called him back and he took my car in, said it was a "faulty MAF" claimed he fixed it and sent me on my way. Two miles later the CEL is back on. I call him back and he tells me I'm on my own and he's done helping. I've checked the fuel pressure using a gauge, all clear. Checked all the hoses, all clear. Checked the MAF with a multimeter, all clear. I called a Volvo dealer and they told me it's likely the Fuel Trim code needs reset. I've had another mechanic tell me he believes it's the fuel filter/pump/regulator. My only concern is if it was one of the mechanics suggestions wouldn't the fuel pressure test not came back all clear? There's no fuel spillage into the exhaust, no smoke, no fuel smell in the engine bay. Only the CEL and the occasional stutter. The stutter only happens when I'm stopped and then start to excelorate it's like it loses power, bogs itself down then surges back to having power again.
Please any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. I didn't know where else to go or ask, and this seemed like the perfect place.
Thank you in advance!
Body Style: SEDAN
Odometer: 99,000 km
Engine: 2.0L 5 CYLINDER TURBODIESEL
Transmission: 6 SPEED AUTOMATIC
VIN # AF7B8DEE9B8310161
Doors: 4 DOORS
Fuel Type: DIESEL
Drive Type: FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
Interior: BLACK LEATHER
VIR test shows no bugs
More info here
+ Dura Choice Dual Range Pressure Gauge $11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G0096RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
+ 1/4 NPT to 1/4 barb $3
+ 10ft of 1/4 hose from hardware store $4
+ >1ft of 1/8 silicone hose from harware store $.5
+ Vacuum couplers from O'rielly's $3
+ Vacuum cap from hardware store FREE
+ Zipties $1
+ Spring clamp $.5
Everything is pretty simple except for the vent tube I implemented at the top of the gauge as opposed to the stock brass pin made for venting the gauge. I did this because the gauge is glycerin filled and any variation in altitude pressure or temperature would cause the gauge to read inaccurately and would require venting while installed in the car which is not something I am willing to do while driving. My solution to this was pretty simple, I removed the stock brass cap in the rubber plug on the top of the gauge and replaced it with a 1/8 vacuum coupler and attached the 1/8 silicone hose to the other end of it and looped it a few times to ensure that no glycerin would escape. I held to hose in place with zipties and placed another 1/8 couple at the other end of it with a vinyl vacuum cap over the other end with a small hole cut into it, so that it may act as a restrictor for any large particles trying to enter the hose. both ends of said hose are clamped with zipties. This will allow constant venting, ensuring accuracy.
Finished Product: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BA2ycq3XDxJe0doTb5GBYMuunkNBCtqEtA not a .bmp, promise ;)
I will post an update when installed, for now, is this the best economy gauge you've seen? Also, mods, if this is in the wrong category, I'm sorry. Also, the reason I used a link is because for some reason the images were not being uploaded in house. (sorry!)
It's installed! : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15MbmpnALHCw7iYzMBPqZ7rXP5w6jtLVHfQ/view?usp=sharing
Hey guys, having a frustrating problem with my s70. After installing new outer tie rods, ball joints, iPd bars and pressing new bushings into '93 arms, I had the car aligned, only to have it pull to the left. I took it back and found that one of the control arms had shifted rearward on the bushings. I fixed the bushing issue so they are secure, and had it re-aligned. Guess what? Still pulls left. I took it back again, stupidly offering to pay to have it aligned again just to get it dealt with. Still pulls left! I decided to take it to another shop after asking to see the alignment sheet and figuring out they weren't touching the rear as it "was not adjustable". As we all know, it is. Lesson learned; don't take fwd Volvos to Rockland Tire in Monsey. The second shop aligned it properly, starting with the rear delta links. Still pulls left. Must be a fluke, took it back: still pulls.
At this point I don't even want to drive the car, this little issue is driving me nuts. It's a slight pull on the highway, enough that it isn't very noticeable unless you take your hands off the wheel, but in stop and go traffic the wheel wants to "roll" to the left as you come to a stop. That, and I know it's there so I can't be satisfied :P
One thing I noticed when adjusting the arms was that the front DS subframe bolt seems to be pushed back slightly. This would in theory cant the whole front of the car to the left, though I would think with alignment that wouldn't matter, or it would show up in alignment. Could this be the source of my issue? Now that I write about it and review the pictures it seems obvious that it could be, but I'd like to get some input before I spend any more time dealing with this issue.
EDIT: it occurs to me that if the subframe shifted back on the left, the bolt would be relatively moved forward. So maybe this isn't relevant.