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boxpin

Boxpin's Build

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Left leg getting tired?

What clutch did you decide to go with?

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Trust me, I am right there with you.

The pressure plate is strong. The disc grabs really well. The combination of the two makes it a very small window for engaging the clutch. That in combination with the lightened flywheel causes you to have to rev a bit to make the whole thing work. I am going to use it through the breaking period and tuning. Other options would be to use the 707 with the R disc or the R pressure plate with the 6puck.

We will see when everything is bolted up and tested, it wont be my DD, just weekend car, see how. was thinking the same direction as you if its not manageable, possibility of going with 707 PP and R disk. but i want to try it first.

gbox on ground??? what happened?

:)

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Left leg getting tired?

What clutch did you decide to go with?

I cant describe how well this combo works. I mean from a race standpoint...wow, perfect. For the daily driver, not so fun. I bought an organic lined disc from Clutchnet and am going to replace the 6 button. I will keep the pressure plate. It feels better now. I'll be selling the 6 button with an R pressure plate soon. I am sure someone out there will want this extra grip.

158BEC38-386E-499D-8107-DAD7434DDB45_zps

We will see when everything is bolted up and tested, it wont be my DD, just weekend car, see how. was thinking the same direction as you if its not manageable, possibility of going with 707 PP and R disk. but i want to try it first.

gbox on ground??? what happened?

:)

The trans clattered when the clutch was out. The bearing tolerances are off. I am taking it to a shop to have it shimmed. Taking this opportunity to swap the disc.

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The trans clattered when the clutch was out. The bearing tolerances are off. I am taking it to a shop to have it shimmed. Taking this opportunity to swap the disc.

These trans will always rattle with the clutch disengaged with an aftermarket setup, esp unsprung disc. I use Redline ShockProofHD gear oil, which helps immensely, but the M66 has no brass synchro components that will get eaten by this oil. Perhaps there is an alternative gear oil you can use.

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Oh no, you needed to hear it. I know what your talking about with the inherent rattle, this was night and day comparatively. I took it to the manual transmission shop to have them listen and he cringed. It didnt rattle until I swapped that bearing. I run Royal Purple.

I just got off the phone with Redline. Their GL5 oils contain a brass inhibitor that makes it non-corrosive to brass, bronze and some other metal that I cant remember. Syncros are safe. But, they said that it would be too slippery for a syncro transmission and recommended MTL.

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Hey boxpin when you decide to sell that other set up let me know, It may work perfectly for what I'm doing

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im on MT90 too, so far so good... very hard to get Royal Purple here.

Boxpin,

i'm installing my 707 and 6 pucks soon, anything special that i need to be aware off? i will be using new release bearing.

thank you

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I cant describe how well this combo works. I mean from a race standpoint...wow, perfect. For the daily driver, not so fun. I bought an organic lined disc from Clutchnet and am going to replace the 6 button. I will keep the pressure plate. It feels better now. I'll be selling the 6 button with an R pressure plate soon. I am sure someone out there will want this extra grip.

The trans clattered when the clutch was out. The bearing tolerances are off. I am taking it to a shop to have it shimmed. Taking this opportunity to swap the disc.

Which bearing(s) did you replace? Diff carrier, or one of the gear shafts? Were they direct replacement bearings or something else? I would imagine it is difficult to measure end float, given the case design...

FWIW, I've used my share of MTL and MT-90 in brass and bronze loaded transmissions before.

Lovely stuff.

Yeah, it's the ShockProof HD specifically that UK members have said was a problem, in the M56's.

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I tried running AMSOIL transmission fluid twice, and both times the sychros wore incredibly quickly, when I took the transmissions apart they were noticeably more "dirty" looking inside, one the sychro snapped in half and ended up breaking some bearings too, and the other deflected out of gear when I was trying to slam it into gear and broke the shifting mechanism inside the transmission. Both had 2nd gear popouts, one after only having the transmission in for a few days. I've been running GM Sychromesh Friction Modified, and it seems to have been working well, transmissions look brand new inside when I take them apart, but I've broken a few diffs at the track and wonder if the fluid has anything to do with it. My car seems to wheelhop a lot though, so that's probably the issue. So I need to figure out what the cause is, because my automatic car with the same exact tires doesn't wheelhop at all.

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Boxpin,

i'm installing my 707 and 6 pucks soon, anything special that i need to be aware off? i will be using new release bearing.

thank you

All I can say is it is not a daily driver setup. You can read my feelings about further up the thread. Its a total lockup combo, you will have zero slip with a high hp engine.

Which bearing(s) did you replace? Diff carrier, or one of the gear shafts? Were they direct replacement bearings or something else? I would imagine it is difficult to measure end float, given the case design...

I replaced the diff bearings when I installed the Quaife and had to shim it. This bearing was on a gear shaft. The shop doing it is very confident they can fix it right up. They say they do it all the time.

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6 button is out. New disc in...

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Cleaned up the sub frame

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She is back on the road. Loud trans noise is gone and clutch is super nice. Lovin' it. Tuning time.

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