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phunktified

98 Not Startin Thread! Replaced Everything?

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Sooooo my car drove home fine last night, low and behold I try and start it today and it cranks endlessly.

Checked for fuel at rail - all good

Checked spark plugs - dry, checked for spark, none.

Sooo injectors not firing and no spark .....

I re-plugged in the cam sensor and got it to start 1x today. I stopped it to reattach the rest of the airbox and stuff and it wouldnt start again.

Then thinking it was the cam sensor I replaced that with known good, no start.

Replaced crank sensor with known good, no start..

Replaced ECU with known good --> no start.

Replace Fuel Pump Relay with known good...--> no start!!!!!

Just checked a plug again, they are dry...

Any ideas? ? ? Might try splicing a new connector for the cam sensor ... been searching but not sure wtf is going on ... wasted my whole afternoon on this already ...

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Codes?

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put a battery in my Gf's vert and went and picked up the S70, my odbII bluetooth adapter (will try torque, doesnt work on my 98 all the time) and laptop with vagcom cable. .. will see if I can get volfcr to work again, I had lost my cable and installed a 2nd one and it hasnt worked since, derp!

Oh yeah and grabbed a temp sensor too! All sensors,etc I put in today are from a good running car I took apart just a few weeks ago ...

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Make sure the fuel system relay (gray relay that lives under the radiator cowl) is properly connected. If so, continue reading....

Since you appear to have known functioning parts I'll throw in something from my prior travails.... I had an NA car with a manual transmission that nobody could figure out why it failed to start and run. Everything was thrown at it without success. I am a glutton for punishment and bought the car. After a lot of testing, I discovered that the cam sensor was giving a signal which arrived at the ECM pins but it never came out of the ECM to the coil.

Ended up being the starter. The cam sensor is a magnetic device and relies upon a certain speed of sweep to produce a good signal. The starter was simply turning the engine too slowly to get a healthy signal to the ECM which could then be relayed to the coil to fire. Good battery but bad starter in my case.

While this may well not be your issue, I would ensure you have a very strong battery, and give a good listen to the starter, does it sound like it's spinning the engine fast or laboring to turn it quickly?

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Make sure the fuel system relay (gray relay that lives under the radiator cowl) is properly connected. If so, continue reading....

While this may well not be your issue, I would ensure you have a very strong battery, and give a good listen to the starter, does it sound like it's spinning the engine fast or laboring to turn it quickly?

was just looking into the 'gray' relay, I should have a spare here in my other junk 98 .... The relay I replaced was the red fuel pump relay under the fuse cover ..

Car has been and continues to crank over just fine! no slow crank .... going to mess with it again tomorrow, the battery is inside on the charger now ...

My current suspect is a bad connection to cam sensor based on the 'extreme' cold temps and having been able to start it randomly the one time today after re-seating the connector. I would like to see if I can pull a code before I go splicing into the harness tho .... I have 2 spare 98 harnesses tho so I could always splice one in now and replace the whole thing at some point...

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If the cylinders have been washed with fuel and your compression is horrible, you can have the always enjoyable "lawnmower syndrome".

Car can't really build enough compression to effectively fire. If the engine sounds like it is spinning with zero effort, you are going to need a good battery! Keep it cranking until compression builds, then it will fire over. Very annoying.

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If the cylinders have been washed with fuel and your compression is horrible, you can have the always enjoyable "lawnmower syndrome".

Car can't really build enough compression to effectively fire. If the engine sounds like it is spinning with zero effort, you are going to need a good battery! Keep it cranking until compression builds, then it will fire over. Very annoying.

My guess is thats not it since the plugs are coming out dry.. if thats the case it will likely magically start tomorrow ... pretty sure something is causing lack of spark + injector pulse.

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No ECT will crank and crank and not start. I'm not sure what it disables though. But sounds like that or the cam sensor. You're flying blind without a code reader. Effort wise, you might be better off buying a second reader if you can't get to your other. Or maybe someone in the area has one you can borrow.

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Make sure the cam sensor plate that bolts to the camshaft is seated correctly and tight.

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^ yup checked that when i swapped the cam sensor, will also note other suspect might have been ignition switch, and only relay under rad shroud on the 98 is the cooling fan relay

so I re-seated the ECT sensor connector when I reinstalled the battery today and it fired right up ..... no idea if re-seating had anything to do with it ... let it warm up to temp and will try again tomorrow as I'm working all day today ...

winter shenanigans? will update if it happens again ....

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didnt start again today, cranked it for over a minute when I first tried, no luck, compression good, no spark or injector pulse again ..

tried plugging in another ECT .... only thing I can think of I havent replaced is ignition switch ....

battery is back on the charger ..... really glad I bothered getting the S70 back on the road now ...

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Has to be either the grey injector relay, cam/crank sensor or bad wire/harness to one of those. Those are the only things I can think of that would not allow an rpm signal pulse causing no spark or fuel...since the ecu has no way of telling where the crank is at when rotating. maybe try some diffrent cam and crank sensors, you never know.

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Re-seat the ECT connector multiple times. Use some contact cleaner on it. Autozone carries CRC's cleaner in a spray bottle. Sounds fairly possible you've got a bad connection there. Either that or maybe someone yanked the cable at some point and the wires in the connector are almost broken off.

Otherwise pull the codes. You'll hate yourself for troubleshooting for hours if there was a code set.

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Re-seat the ECT connector multiple times. Use some contact cleaner on it. Autozone carries CRC's cleaner in a spray bottle. Sounds fairly possible you've got a bad connection there. Either that or maybe someone yanked the cable at some point and the wires in the connector are almost broken off.

Otherwise pull the codes. You'll hate yourself for troubleshooting for hours if there was a code set.

thanks, yeah thats what I was thinking so I didnt spend any time on it today, will try pulling codes again when I have time ... going to install Volfcr + vagcom cable on my new laptop

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