The VAST Wagon Build


Tightmopedman9
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definitely not recommended.

any word on the upper mounting bushings for the rears? did you use the qa1's or stock volvo's

Basically, just cut off 1/2" from the threads and then use the stock shock nut as a spacer, underneath the QA1 supplied nut. The un-threaded portion is too long and doesn't allow the nut to fully tighten onto the stock nivomat mounts. Super easy install.

Are you also using the Aeromotive 13129?

Yes.

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Thanks a lot for sharing your setup-ideas!

I was wondering though:

For the dual spring setup I'm looking at a 7" 500# spring (PAC-7x2.5x500) stacked on a 6" 350# spring (ES0600.250.0350). This will give me .96" of travel at an effective rate of 206#. Then once the 350# coil binds I'll be at 500#.

Wouldn't the transition between an effective springrate of 206# and 500# be a bit to 'steep'/harsh? It would change the way your suspension handles bumpsteer quite a bit, maybe resulting in abrupt changes in the way your steering reacts...

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I had an 850 AWD before. I hate the fuel system. You did a great job re engineering it but honestly the best thing to do would have been to drop all that crap out and run a fuel cell in the trunk.

If ... I mean WHEN something goes wrong with it you'll have to drop the subframe again or cut holes in the rear floor boards to have access to it. My fuel sending unit went out twice on mine, and I had work to do on the rotted brake lines anyway, because you know all the lines were plastic except up there were there was no access to them.

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If ... I mean WHEN something goes wrong with it you'll have to drop the subframe again or cut holes in the rear floor boards to have access to it.

This is true... as I had to cut the floor on my 98 in order to replace it in a parking lot. However, I feel if done right, it's not so bad.

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This is true... as I had to cut the floor on my 98 in order to replace it in a parking lot. However, I feel if done right, it's not so bad.

I agree. Makes no sense to go to all that work dropping the tank for this crap when you can make nice access panels in very little time. I would strongly recommend hinged covers, as the rear seat pads do sit in that outer perch. It's not hard to snake new sheathed plastic lines in over top without dropping anything, that's what I did, moving to 12mm line for my delivery upgrade setup.

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I Started putting mine in today. I plan on making a thread tomorrow on the install. Ill keep ya posted

please do

Basically, just cut off 1/2" from the threads and then use the stock shock nut as a spacer, underneath the QA1 supplied nut. The un-threaded portion is too long and doesn't allow the nut to fully tighten onto the stock nivomat mounts. Super easy install.

Yes.

yes that's close to what i did last week using a spacer. I learned the hard way it wouldn't tighten down completely. I actually ordered shorter shocks than you did since I'm gonna be running pretty low, but went with QA1 also

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please do

yes that's close to what i did last week using a spacer. I learned the hard way it wouldn't tighten down completely. I actually ordered shorter shocks than you did since I'm gonna be running pretty low, but went with QA1 also

You can go pretty dam low with this set up

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Thanks a lot for sharing your setup-ideas!

I was wondering though:

Wouldn't the transition between an effective springrate of 206# and 500# be a bit to 'steep'/harsh? It would change the way your suspension handles bumpsteer quite a bit, maybe resulting in abrupt changes in the way your steering reacts...

This is why I haven't bought the springs yet. I'm not sure if .96" is too much 'soft' ride height. I could go with shorter 350# springs for about .5" of 'soft' travel, which might be a little more predictable. Really, I have no idea. I would really like to test it out though, and will do so within the next month or so. Maybe I'll be wasting money, or maybe I'll like it a lot.

I had an 850 AWD before. I hate the fuel system. You did a great job re engineering it but honestly the best thing to do would have been to drop all that crap out and run a fuel cell in the trunk.

If ... I mean WHEN something goes wrong with it you'll have to drop the subframe again or cut holes in the rear floor boards to have access to it. My fuel sending unit went out twice on mine, and I had work to do on the rotted brake lines anyway, because you know all the lines were plastic except up there were there was no access to them.

Ok, when my fuel pump dies in 200,000 miles I'll spend the 45 minutes it takes to take the fuel pump out and put another unit in there.

I agree. Makes no sense to go to all that work dropping the tank for this crap when you can make nice access panels in very little time. I would strongly recommend hinged covers, as the rear seat pads do sit in that outer perch. It's not hard to snake new sheathed plastic lines in over top without dropping anything, that's what I did, moving to 12mm line for my delivery upgrade setup.

I would never consider cutting a hole in my car, especially right underneath the latch for the rear seats.

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I would never consider cutting a hole in my car, especially right underneath the latch for the rear seats.

Too each his own :D - hinging the cover is sound enough. After cutting the holes in the hood, cutting tub access holes was a no-brainer :lol:

The odds of the rear seat cushion submarining in a collision are slim to none, IMO.

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FWIW, I because that lower seat hinge is located there... I didn't cut it at the bottom and after cutting 3 sides, bent that piece forward to replace the pump. I can assure you that after adding a metal strip and self tapping metal bolts accordingly, it's as strong as it was before I cut it. Used some metal duct tape to seal it.

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  • 1 month later...

Parts have been arriving for a while in preperation for the swap. I don't have a picture of everything ATM, but I'll get one up in a few days. In the meantime, I did a bit of work that I thought I'd share.

I installed a stereo. 

Started with a DEH-80PRS, which is a dead head (no internal amp) audiophile quality head unit. 

MUys

I sound deadnened the entire car using a roofing material. Not that nasty tar based crap, but rather, Polyken 626-35 which is 34mil thick, foil faced, butyl rubber roofing compound. 75mil FatMat is about $2.09 per sqaure foot. The Polyken is $1.34 a square foot at the same thickness (doubled up).

hUrW

mnFG

 

MFuQ

cXRW

I put Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 components in the front door, Peerless 830946 6.5" mid-range drivers in the rear doors and a single 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect subwoofer. 

CltPqDpw

It takes quite a bit of cutting to get such a deep speaker in.

1113

 

I pulled apart the white wagon a while ago. I gave the two cars a bit of time to get to know each other...

ABYj

 

I put some wilwood brakes in the front. 12.39" 2 piece rotor, 6 piston dynalite calipers blah blah blah.

sQeO

Also, put 8610 Koni inserts in the TA Technix. What a difference! Jeez, I can't say it enough, but those Technix are crap!

All in all, the re-valve was fairly easy. Just remove the gland nut (heat helps to melt the thread locker they used), and then lathe down the thickness of the gland nut. The Koni insert is just a touch taller than the Technix so you need a bit more room in the shock body.

P-g2

Custom gland nut tool, lol.

PcoH

 

And a crap paint job to finish it up!

axBB

I picked up a M66 with a stripped output shaft for a song. Got her ready for the new power with a Quaife.

Hk4Y

 

And a picture of the car in question. 

B8a6

 

Edited by Tightmopedman9
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Looking really good! I've been doing some thinking on the springrate question, and I think it wouldn't be as much of a problem, because when loading up you're softest spring, there will be a point where the total pressure absorbed by the softest spring will equal the springrate of the harder spring. At that point they will be progressively combined. At least: that's what my knowledge and imagination tells me.

Your progress is motivating aswell: I'm making the partslist for my suspension revamp! I'll be keeping an eye on this thread!

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