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apeacock

Peacocks Wagon Build

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7 minutes ago, Domo said:

when you say you had 4 hours of electrical errors what happened?

I put part of the ECM wiring harness in backwards so the ECU wasn't communicating properly - that took ~10 minutes to fix.

Then the ground wire for the ETM was loose, causing the ETM to loose signal and not communicate with the rest of the network. A simple fix, but it took a little time to diagnose and troubleshoot. Especially since the ETM was a white label and original to the car, we had to eliminate any and all causes of ETM issues prior to arriving at the ground issue. 

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1 minute ago, andyb5 said:

I put part of the ECM wiring harness in backwards so the ECU wasn't communicating properly - that took ~10 minutes to fix.

Then the ground wire for the ETM was loose, causing the ETM to loose signal and not communicate with the rest of the network. A simple fix, but it took a little time to diagnose and troubleshoot. Especially since the ETM was a white label and original to the car, we had to eliminate any and all causes of ETM issues prior to arriving at the ground issue. 

ok sounds good, also regarding wiring looking at a photo of the pnp wiring all wiring for tcm canbus and pnp and reverse lights modification were they all done at the tcm harness?

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On 4/8/2016 at 9:54 PM, lookforjoe said:

Nice!

Did you buy the PDV collar? Stock Volvo unit should not have needed any encouragement for installation..

We started it by hand, and probably could've done the install with a deadblow hammer but the press actually the fastest and easiest way. 

I seem to recall seeing something where starting with the 06-07 automatic P2 R collar gears, Volvo changed the tolerance and material composition to help reduce wear on the collar gear splines. My guess (just a guess, nothing to substantiate this) is that replacement collars are made to the newer, tighter tolerances. 

 

On 4/8/2016 at 1:03 PM, Domo said:

ok sounds good, also regarding wiring looking at a photo of the pnp wiring all wiring for tcm canbus and pnp and reverse lights modification were they all done at the tcm harness?

I have more details and pictures of on the wiring modifications in my build, the link is in my sig. 

I remove the entire wiring harness from the car, and separate out the transmission wiring and remove all unneeded wiring. This way it's a much cleaner install and will greatly simply things if any troubleshooting is needed.

The PNP wire is long enough that you can remove it from the connector at the trans, crimp a spade terminal on it and run it directly to the starter solenoid, no splicing necessary. 

The reverse lights are a similar condition - remove from trans connector (pins 5 and 9) then attach the reverse light connector and you're good to go. 

The TCM is deleted on the chassis side of the harness. You remove the green (pin B1 and B2) and white (B13 and B14) wires from the TCM plug. You then connect B1 to B2 and B13 to B14 to remove the TCM from the network. This is shown on the wiring diagram in Mark (blackt5) build thread. I have a link that diagram in my build and show pictures of my wiring. 

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2 hours ago, andyb5 said:

We started it by hand, and probably could've done the install with a deadblow hammer but the press actually the fastest and easiest way. 

I seem to recall seeing something where starting with the 06-07 automatic P2 R collar gears, Volvo changed the tolerance and material composition to help reduce wear on the collar gear splines. My guess (just a guess, nothing to substantiate this) is that replacement collars are made to the newer, tighter tolerances. 

 

I have more details and pictures of on the wiring modifications in my build, the link is in my sig. 

I remove the entire wiring harness from the car, and separate out the transmission wiring and remove all unneeded wiring. This way it's a much cleaner install and will greatly simply things if any troubleshooting is needed.

The PNP wire is long enough that you can remove it from the connector at the trans, crimp a spade terminal on it and run it directly to the starter motor, no splicing necessary. 

The reverse lights are a similar condition - remove from trans connector (pins 5 and 9) then attach the reverse light connector and you're good to go. 

The TCM is deleted on the chassis side of the harness. You remove the green (pin B1 and B2) and white (B13 and B14) wires from the TCM plug. You then connect B1 to B2 and B13 to B14 to remove the TCM from the network. This is shown on the wiring diagram in Mark (blackt5) build thread. I have a link that diagram in my build and show pictures of my wiring. 

Thanks I have read your thread, Marks, and Hussein's I worry about removing the wiring from the ecu box, but since lots of people are doing it these days I guess it can't be that bad

 

the pnp wire are you connecting that to the starter solenoid?

sorry with all the questions just a few issues I have that I couldn't find the answers too, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

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On 4/2/2016 at 8:54 PM, andyb5 said:

 

Yup, our garage on RPI's campus. 

We had a 426 wagon party earlier:

F7D29D1D-F27D-4C89-8EF3-2E2F83883518_zps

Eric (leco510) myself, and Chris (huntec) while Anthony's wagon is on the lift. 

Oh how cool!

Sorry, couldn't RSVP because... I'm just a few too many neighborhoods away.

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man that's some work there!

 

curious as to your use of a turbo blanket? just to help with the Öhlins reservoirs?

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2 hours ago, Kevin. said:

man that's some work there!

 

curious as to your use of a turbo blanket? just to help with the Öhlins reservoirs?

I have the R manifold and so the stock heat shield doesn't fit any more. The blanket is for a td04 Subaru turbo. After Carlisle last year and in talking with a few other people I got the comment time and again that the heat from the turbo will negatively effect the oil in the Öhlins and make them 'work less' when everything is really hot. 

I can hand on heart say as well the cabin gets less hot with the turbo wrapped up like that. Just something extra to contain the heat a bit. Hell, it may even help the life of the angle gear being that it is right above it. 

I think it was $40~? on ebay from the oem seller, came with the little spool of wire to set it in place and I would do one again if I had another car with no upper heat shield. It probably doesn't make enough heat to damage anything but it does keep the temperature down a bit better in that area. Closest thing to getting a correct heat shield for that area. 

Was it ever a lot of work as well. 

thursday 530-12pm
Friday 10am-2am
Saturday 10am-3am
Sunday 10am - 5pm

47+ hours? That includes some lunch and dinner breaks with 3 parts store runs as well but that's apart of any project. Andys wiring knowledge I'm sure saved a lot of time too. 

Edited by apeacock
More info.
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Andy I gotta text you about this wiring, has me thinking I might be able to get rid of my cel via hardware tinkering

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On 4/9/2016 at 5:43 PM, apeacock said:

I have the R manifold and so the stock heat shield doesn't fit any more. The blanket is for a td04 Subaru turbo. After Carlisle last year and in talking with a few other people I got the comment time and again that the heat from the turbo will negatively effect the oil in the Öhlins and make them 'work less' when everything is really hot. 

I can hand on heart say as well the cabin gets less hot with the turbo wrapped up like that. Just something extra to contain the heat a bit. Hell, it may even help the life of the angle gear being that it is right above it. 

I think it was $40~? on ebay from the oem seller, came with the little spool of wire to set it in place and I would do one again if I had another car with no upper heat shield. It probably doesn't make enough heat to damage anything but it does keep the temperature down a bit better in that area. Closest thing to getting a correct heat shield for that area. 

Been doing a little research, and the turbo blanket is an awesome mod.  In addition to reducing engine bay temps, the extra heat in the turbine improves spool and transient response.  So you get lower IATs, cooler cabin/engine bay, and batter throttle respone - win!  More info here (warning, nerd content) : http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3631/Nerd-O-Scope-Keeping-The-Energy-In-Turbos-Using-PTP-Turbo-Blankets.aspx

The only downside to the exhaust wrap is the potential for moisture to accumulate and eventually cause rust issues.  Oh, and the ends of the stainless steel zipties do a fantastic job of poking holes in your fingers.... :monkey: 


Was it ever a lot of work as well. 

thursday 530-12pm
Friday 10am-2am
Saturday 10am-3am
Sunday 10am - 5pm

47+ hours? That includes some lunch and dinner breaks with 3 parts store runs as well but that's apart of any project. Andys wiring knowledge I'm sure saved a lot of time too. 

Oh, and for the record, I'm still amazed we got everything done as fast as we did.  That was a metric shitload of work for 72 hours, start to finish.
M66 swap and all associated work (took me ~60 hours on my wagon)
Water pump, timing belt, tensioner and idler puller replaced
Delrin subframe bushings
Clean engine bay and finish wrapping downpipe

Plus a few hours of troubleshooting my stupid mistakes :monkey: 

11 hours ago, Ol' Dirty Noodle said:

Andy I gotta text you about this wiring, has me thinking I might be able to get rid of my cel via hardware tinkering

Let me know what you're thinking!

On 4/8/2016 at 3:33 PM, Domo said:

Thanks I have read your thread, Marks, and Hussein's I worry about removing the wiring from the ecu box, but since lots of people are doing it these days I guess it can't be that bad

 

the pnp wire are you connecting that to the starter solenoid?

sorry with all the questions just a few issues I have that I couldn't find the answers too, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

Honestly, disassembling the ECM/TCM stuff isn't too bad, Mark has a lot of great details in his thread that show you how to do so.  Take plenty of pictures as you take stuff apart for reference when you put it back together!

Yeah, PNP wire gets the spade terminal crimped on and connected to the starter solenoid.  I edited my earlier post to state this more clearly.

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Glad to see another M66 swap.  Really makes these cars a treat to drive.

On that shifter assembly, cut out the plastic riser below it.  Improves the position of the shifter greatly.

 

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8 hours ago, Commander Riker said:

Glad to see another M66 swap.  Really makes these cars a treat to drive.

On that shifter assembly, cut out the plastic riser below it.  Improves the position of the shifter greatly.

 

Going to to that today actually. It's sitting much too high. I cut the thick plastic one but the surround for that bundle of wires is just a bit higher up then it needs to be. Trying to brainstorm a way to secure the lower plastic tray back together to prevent and dash rattle in the future. Currently all of the clips are intact. 

It certainly is a treat now. Still can't believe it's all done and it all works. The car is noticeably lighter on it's feet. Partly because it does weight less now but also because the power delivery feels so much different.  

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How many miles does your car have?  Did you notice the sub frame bushings as an improvement?  I think mine are going at 230k.

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17 hours ago, andyb5 said:

The only downside to the exhaust wrap is the potential for moisture to accumulate and eventually cause rust issues.  Oh, and the ends of the stainless steel zipties do a fantastic job of poking holes in your fingers.... :monkey:

You could always ceramic coat the downpipe/exhaust and then wrap it to prevent rust issues.

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