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apeacock

Peacocks Wagon Build

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37 minutes ago, Tightmopedman9 said:

Nice, that fitting looks very low profile. Are you going with the dual port wastegate and 4 port solenoid?

I replaced the CBV on mine with the turbo smart as well; it didn't do anything for performance but the stock CBV made this super annoying (I thought) whine at light throttle.

That's what i figured. Seemed really close to the turbo and I can even cut 3-4 threads off of it and get it tighter to the core. 

Bens got to send me the 4 port still, I have the solenoid but I am going to run on waste gate pressure alone until hopefully September when I make the trip out to Rolling motors and have the pump installed and properly tuned. Interested in the part number for the CBV if possible. 

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33 minutes ago, Tightmopedman9 said:

Nice I saw this one today for about that on one or two site. Couldn't tell if it would fit as I didn't see any dimensions.  

--

Also got my donor oil pan cleaned and ready for the bung to be welded in. Parts cleaner at first,  simple green bath after that. Rinsed very well after wards. 

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On 8/2/2016 at 8:19 PM, Tightmopedman9 said:

Nice, that fitting looks very low profile. Are you going with the dual port wastegate and 4 port solenoid?

I replaced the CBV on mine with the turbo smart as well; it didn't do anything for performance but the stock CBV made this super annoying (I thought) whine at light throttle.

That's what i figured. Seemed really close to the turbo and I can even cut 3-4 threads off of it and get it tighter to the core. 

Bens got to send me the 4 port still, I have the solenoid but I am going to run on waste gate pressure alone until hopefully September when I make the trip out to Rolling motors and have the pump installed and properly tuned. Interested in the part number for the CBV if possible. 

 - -

Waiting on the machine shop for the manifold. They had some trouble with the studs so they had to bring in a welder, not looking forward to what that will cost me. 

 

I presume that much gunk is normal?
Fi0UK8eh.jpg

More pan shots. Going with the original pan and modding the stock drain tube. If that doesn't work I can go right to the pan with the 10AN in it. 
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New gasket is the one piece c30. Looks really beefy. 
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Feeling very lucky to have a garage where the wagon can sit and allow for this project to take a while.

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While removing the old pan I ran into the one broken bolt from the manual swap. One of the 14mm Transmission too pan bolts broke during the install. It is a spot used on the p80 but not the p1. Shown below is the tool we used to fix the problem.

S0XrATph.jpg


Great side by side of the two turbos. 

nDXBDyyh.jpg

Edited by apeacock
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Are you sure that one piece will fit? The RNC head has no water port to interfere.

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On August 27, 2016 at 9:17 PM, lookforjoe said:

Are you sure that one piece will fit? The RNC head has no water port to interfere.

You have to trim one end by the water pipe a bit but otherwise yes it works. I'm running one on my wagon :smile: 

Edit: found a picture from when I installed mine. The top right corner of the gasket needs to be trimmed. 

EE2C8978-8663-46CB-98DD-0747E4EBDDED_zps

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On 8/28/2016 at 11:53 AM, andyb5 said:

You have to trim one end by the water pipe a bit but otherwise yes it works. I'm running one on my wagon :smile: 

Edit: found a picture from when I installed mine. The top right corner of the gasket needs to be trimmed. 

 

Just did 5 on a friends are and it really really sucked. Now factor in maybe having to take some off to readjust the turbo etc and it would be even worse. Good to know on the trimming. 

Spent some time on the manifold. Had it cut down then opened it up a bit myself. Some other people have shown removing way more then I did. But I wanted to keep as much material as possible. Still considering making a secondary support for the very heavy turbo. 
I wish i hadn't let the tool jump and run that big line across the face of it but I can't really fix it now. 

VXvR2X2h.jpg
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Bonus no door pic. 
zowMBCfh.jpg

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Many turbo things happening.
The heat shield needs some persuasion to allow the large IWG exhaust housing to fit. The space is tight But has hard as I could shake the engine forwards and back it didn't touch the firewall or is components. That is until I get my additional heat shielding material and PTP blanket in there. Then I'll be cutting it very very close. 

Install notes:

It's heavy.

It fits right through the top if you go exhaust side first.

It's worth fitting the water lines before you place it all in there. 

My water line kit sits lightly wedged between the core and the compressor housing, They both sort of run the opposite way that makes sense for fitment. However I believe if I switched them around I may run into further issues. 

I used a pre made 18" line and an 8" line supplied with the Kinugawa 320-1201-007 

The water lines just don't play nice with the turbo, they can both fit in there holes, but only with the rubber end loose. Hussein is modifying them for me so the elbows are much shorter. 
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The TCV bracket must come off the turbo. I didn't want to bend the 16 year old rear water pipe so a quick go with the die grinder saw it removed. 
TD8X8E2l.jpg

To get a good grip on the rear oil supply line I needed to remove the bearing carrier for the passenger side axle. 

vEAkmvuh.jpg

Edited by apeacock
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Love it, can't wait to see this all finished up!!

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Nice! Do you have a blanket for that hotside? It would help keep your hoses from getting crispy ;)

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19 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Nice! Do you have a blanket for that hotside? It would help keep your hoses from getting crispy ;)

Yes indeed!!

I went big and got the very form fitting blanket from PTP turbo blankets in Texas.

I also bought some stick on reflective material for the firewall. But I'm going to wait and measure how hot the turbo gets, the material say's it's only good up to a working temp of 400F though maybe that means the surface it's on can only get that hot. 

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Due to some poor planning I had the need to slice my rear exhaust open. At the time I got the EST down pipe I really didn't know V band or flanges were a thing.  They saw the clam shell was leaking and offered to just put a sleeve in place of it (kind of a mistake a everyone's part).

If you've never removed the carreir plate then you should know you need to unhook the rear portion of the exhaust to free it. The fit was tight without removing the 02 sensors on the front side and I just don't think it would have made it. 

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I did coat the top and bottom of the new piece with a few layers of Summit General Chassis Enamel, I'd been watching that guy on Youtube buildis V8 Miata and had to give it a try. The more protection the better right?

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New bracket in place. Removal also makes mounting the prop shaft much much easier. You mount it loosely to the center plate. then lift it into place making sure the ends line up with the AWD system. 

 

F5gYl2Qh.jpg

Edited by apeacock
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IT STARTS!

Turned into one of those hurry up and wait days. I thought I was going to be able to get the exhaust fabbed up today but ran out of time. After fitting the new intake parts I found that the the IWGA was a bit to close to the tube and needed to be clocked over about 10*

Que the 13mm combo wrench and I got to work. Intake and charge pipe are now on the car. I was told to get a 45 & 90 coupler for the new mini Snabb intake pipe. However I would contest that two 90* sections are the way to go as I was forced to leave the filter straight and not include my intake box (say what you will I like it) 

However with this new found lack of fitment perhaps I can find a different intake setup. I'll need a different one to accommodate the incoming 3.5" maf housing. Any suggestions?

The coolant lines are also in and they do touch the intake tube, but there really isn't anyway around that with this turbo. 
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Enter a piece of dryer tube as a temp exhaust!
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Shaky picture I know. 

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Patented Squiggle Diggles

l3iMxPnh.jpg

 

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im not the one to read so thanks for all the pics...nice work !  thumbup.gif embeer.gif

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