Recommended Posts

For the rears, I decided not to mount the reservoirs in the plastic trim along the sides of the wagon trunk. I guess it depends on what you carry back there but I wouldn't want to risk them getting damaged or knocked around. Instead, I have them wrapped in towels under the side floor panels. They're still perfectly accessible but are protected. You might even be able to install them using the supplied brackets under the panels actually into the metal.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 416
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Very much icing on the cake at this point. A shift boot made from pieces of and R seat. 

OK so, Had the rear seal replaced on the angle gear as well as the fluid changed out. No longer leaks on the hot exhaust making the terrible terrible stench. Started in on wrapping the exhaust and g

Alright I should see there return early next week but the kind people at Performance Shock Inc were gracious enough to provide me with some pictures of the rebuild and testing process. 

Posted Images

Getting the rear pads in and cleaning off some goo. Alot easier and faster when it's not on the car.
WC0wD7Rl.jpg
ILUzlSBl.jpg
The assembly of these brakes is so much nicer than the standard setup. I always hated pressing the pad with the clip into the piston. Here i can use a hammer. (we miss you clarkson)
du2Ze8Hl.jpg
a9Gn8sFl.jpg
KZVrMgul.jpg
OOOO New
yqTuVl5l.jpg
So large!
nrEaJfll.jpg

Aftermath
WbB2kwUl.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice cleanup! Now you're set for 50-60K on those pads :)

They do fill the wheels nicely too..

I REALLY like how nice they come together. Not just from a looks standpoint but the construction of the pin/retainer/backing plate.

I also may have learned there's a cotter pin that holds the larger retaining pin in by smashing the first one out with the punch/framing hammer. I'm sure a parts or hardware store will have a decent replacement.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Got a chance to install the intercooler. 
Not easy and not hard just time consuming getting everything lined up straight. Everything is as expected, tighter upon refitting. 
The fan had to kind of be shoved into place to fit past the plenum. 
Arranging the Ac/intercooler/rad is a paint as well. My do88 unit did not have a perfect 90* angle on one side so it cause some headaches getting the bolts in through all 3 pieces. However the previous radiator replacement on this wagon l;ed some one to drill holes in the headlight support and allowed for much greater access. 
cnc0Dvql.jpg
OBdFvtml.jpg

Good mix of coolant and Atf
bRcI4lRl.jpg

Many curse words later 
rQoCmYrl.jpg

Obligatory side by side picture. 
Pictured as well the Milwaukee m18 fuel impact gun excellent tool if your looking for a electric impact gun.
W4BNcgUl.jpg
 

on the advice of VS i put washers to space the intercooler from the radiator and get less surface contact.
Do0porLl.jpg
Gaff tape to keep them in place for the install
JW9f1TBl.jpg
Four hours later
b6UnYI1l.jpg

  • Upvote 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The rebuilt front shocks are a sight to be seen. Really happy with their performance so far. Noticeable difference from 1-4 and especially at the 7-8 setting. Bumps are no doubt felt with more force and I can report more once the new tires are on all four corners. Dry rot /  Ozone sucks. 
GgERlkSl.jpg
TkHgbMnl.jpg

Experiences in the past week have been mixed as well. The back end of the car is rather low and any suggestions for getting a little more height would help as i've already had a few nicks to the undercarriage adjusting to the dropped chassis. 


Control arms in the back sit almost parallel to the ground compared to their sprung state they previously had.
pRgXAN2l.jpg

Have to love those heat shield fasteners too. I hope to get a good solution for keeping it up there soon. 

 

qgfjLqHl.jpg

Not sure if i should stay with b&w or go with a colored one 
6z1UwOKl.jpg


More gratuitous shots. Profile is normally the best view of these cars
Wmlq8QBl.jpg
s1tRNXnl.jpg

Sadly 10 years in the box seemed to get the better of the one rear Ohlins Shock.
Seeing what can be done with warranty from overseas as its weeping fluid. 
hrIgLn9l.jpg

Mini project I dont think i can get done by carlisle.

8nSNg3Gl.jpg

Also didn't realise they have a plastic hinge on the 99 cars but metal on the 98 so the gap should be a little different. 

As is ALWAYS my luck the day i wash and wax the car there is heavy rain. O well. 
oDFPHvyl.jpg

Edited by apeacock
  • Upvote 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect an installation error caused the damage to your Öhlins. On the picture it looks like the braided line has a cut, that might have been caused by the cover plate for the strut tower. There is a foam sleeve on the braided line meant to prevent it from getting in contact with anything.

As for the heat shields: Simply use a big washer to get around the problem of rusted mounts.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That defiantly looks like a cut. 10 years in the box, that stainless still looks new, stainless does not rust or break down, this is damaged else wise. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect an installation error caused the damage to your Öhlins. On the picture it looks like the braided line has a cut, that might have been caused by the cover plate for the strut tower. There is a foam sleeve on the braided line meant to prevent it from getting in contact with anything.

As for the heat shields: Simply use a big washer to get around the problem of rusted mounts.

​I will go that route for the heat shield.
tough to say on the lines really. If it did happen then It was an accident on my mechanics part, though he says that it had a break in it to start with when it was installed and I do tend to trust him with that kind of thing. 
I only installed the shields loosely this past weekend and the car has otherwise driven without them. The tube doesn't contact the edge though and it was definitely cut prior to putting any sort of miles on the car. Maybe there was a defect to start with I didn't see when in the box? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm...

Braided lines like this don't just fail for no reason. So if it was damaged before, the line has either been kinked (bending angle was to sharp) or cut. However you said you installed the shields loosely and I can't see the foam sleeve. Might have been an unfortunate coincidence that caused the failure. I'm not blaming your mechanic, some things just happen without anyone being really at fault.

Warranty - good luck with that. Not sure if I would give or honor a warranty on 10 year old dampers that were sold abroad. *looks around* Want to buy some replacements?

Edited by Blockpartie
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm...

Braided lines like this don't just fail for no reason. So if it was damaged before, the line has either been kinked (bending angle was to sharp) or cut. However you said you installed the shields loosely and I can't see the foam sleeve. Might have been an unfortunate coincidence that caused the failure. I'm not blaming your mechanic, some things just happen without anyone being really at fault.

Warranty - good luck with that. Not sure if I would give or honor a warranty on 10 year old dampers that were sold abroad. *looks around* Want to buy some replacements?

​If it comes to it and your have some I would consider it. However they were sold with a warranty and so I would imagine if there is another set and they can honor it then something can be worked out. 
Tough to tell what I can do, would just like to be able to use them as they were not easy to get and who knows if they are replaceable. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Instead of dicking around with warranty and shipping them out to an Ohlins service center, I'd just have a local hydraulic line shop replace that section of line.  It'd be cheaper and quicker to deal with a local shop.  I know Omni Services can typically turn that stuff around in a day or two - there's one not far from you in Buffalo at 3187 Eggert Road Tonawanda, NY

  • Upvote 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By ksb
      Our much beloved V70R (~110K miles) overheated on a family trip from Oakland to LA this week.  It now sits at a dealer/service station waiting either for us to pour more money into it than we can afford right now, or for you to come and pick it up.  Asking $1500, OBO.  Then you can either fix the thermostat (and possibly head gasket) yourself, or part it out.
      We are the original owners, with complete service records.  Right before this trip, it had a regular service and new front brakes done (but, ugh, not the thermostat).
      Needs to happen by Weds July 8, in Los Angeles. Paypal, Venmo works.
      (1st side facing pic is from this week, dash board & down facing pic from last year.)
       



    • By YV1LW
      A7737.pdfA7610.pdfA7608.pdfWanted 1998 V70R driver door interior panel. Interior code 3866.A0636.pdf
    • By Shane E
      99’ V70R wagon for sale best offer. Black with tan interior. 159K. Timing belt @ 111k, head rebuilt @ 128k. New heater core and radiator. Rebuilt rear driveline @ 130k but now removed because it started to vibrate. ABS light is on and abs is non-functional. Nice interior and no dents on exterior. Located in 83422. Text me for pics.. Shane, two 08 31three 9zero46
    • By KMF
      Hi im new to this forum and this is my first post.
      i have a V70r 1999 
      there seems to be difficult to find a gearbox replacement 1208943. Reason for replacement is the gears are slipping when the atf is hot. I want to rebuild it but instead of taking down the one on the car I’m looking for one used I can rebuild and swap with the one on the car.
      my questions is: can i use other gearboxes F.ex 1208942 from xc70? 
      Does anybody here know What might be wrong with the one i have? No DTCs!
      Does anybody have A 1208943 they might wanna sell? Or maybe 8111193..
      other things I can do except flush as I just did that? 12l jws3309+treatments+leakstop
      where is the Volvo race mechanics ? 😅

    • By 05V70RGT
      A slightly neglected but making a comeback, 70R that is just itching to find a motivated owner. Nearly every month, we all read, or hear about, another R selling for CRAZY money. This particular R is NOT crazy money. It's reasonable money. $4000.00 and who knows, it may be even cheaper. What I would REALLY be interested in, is a TRADE. STRAIGHT ACROSS. CAR FOR CAR. 
       
      MINE; 2005 VOLVO V70R ONE OF 674
      190,000. Mostly fwy commute miles silver paint with the typical Gobi colored leather. Yes, it would be nice if it were flash green with Atacama but it's not. Clean title, never been involved in any significant accidents. NO panel has been repainted. Has a few of the typical umps and bruises but nothing big. Interior is Gobi leather and is a little tired. CaR starts easily, idles nicely, revs like a pissed off banshee,  has a working 4C system, all three settings, NO CHECK ENGINE LITE, NO codes other than ignition ring and rear wiper motor. 
      Automatic trans with a new, Quality replacement, valve body including all eight shift solenoids. New, not ebay Chinese "reman" solenoids as well as all new proper transmission fluid. I have set adaptation thru VIDA only to find out that the VIN LOCKED TCU is probably "bricked" and needs a XEMODEX replacement.  APPROXIMATELY  $499.95  I just don't want to deal with it as I have other cars and projects in various stages of completion and have no room. 
      If I were to keep it, I would absolutely do an M66 Install as this conversion alone seems to make people go mad and throw huge amounts of cash at owners. 
      If I had the room I'd strip it bare and make it a 6 speed track only car with full cage etc.
      Yours; 95-97 855R  prefer red but any R color would work. Needs to be in reasonably decent condition. NO SALVAGED TITLE. Must run. NO more than 2 years out for tags. I understand how old they are and how crappie the interior plastic is now so I won't freak about a cracked or broken interior. PLEASE,  NO TOTAL POS CARS BUT SOME ISSUES ARE EXPECTED 
      Interested? Let me know what you're thinking and maybe we can make something happen