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apeacock

Peacocks Wagon Build

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Built my own rear bar support setup. I see the other guy went with something much thinner. Maybe a better idea, it's done now though

brushed look
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I have more Ohlins stickers and eve the blue / clear ones like on the front, but im not sure of the final positioning (crossing sides or looping around) of the reservoirs. 

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Got some temperature stickers as well. Trying to settle some concern I've had over how hot these actually get. I had them on the Ohlins themselves but I think they look way better on the brackets
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Comes in a pack of 10 so I'm in the hunt for where to put them,

uPU7gkZh.jpg

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penile. penile region. apply one there.

 

nice work! if I had the rear ohlins I would just keep that entire area open all the time to show em off haha. or make a plexi rear shelf cover so its clear and they can be seen!

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10 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

penile. penile region. apply one there.

 

nice work! if I had the rear ohlins I would just keep that entire area open all the time to show em off haha. or make a plexi rear shelf cover so its clear and they can be seen!

Having the rear section up shows my wood (ha) and shows the rear units! (ha)

If my or anyone else's penile region was enough to get the bottom of the sticker green there would be issues. 

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Nice! If you end up with extra temp strips I could scrounge one of those off you at Carlisle - I'd like one for my Aluminum Expansion tank :)

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12 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Nice! If you end up with extra temp strips I could scrounge one of those off you at Carlisle - I'd like one for my Aluminum Expansion tank :)

You got it, I'll put one in my car tomorrow. Remind me later in the week too!

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Just now, apeacock said:

You got it, I'll put one in my car tomorrow. Remind me later in the week too!

Thank you Anthony!

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Working on a few minor things now.

Addressing the power issue, the TCV seems to function only part of the time. Only when cold, which doesn't take long. Spoke with MAC valves and I'm now getting one made more for warmer environments. I think the place I had it was a bad one and it just cooked itself. 

I've been working on getting an OEM strut bar and it arrived from overseas this week
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A culmination of changes is under way. I got my new Higher heat resistant 4 port mac valve in

I'm needed to re work my intake tube to accommodate the catch can setup and eliminate the PTC element.

Need to extend both my o2 sensor wires to fit with the new exhaust. (Any one de-pin these OEM volvo / tyco connectors) Can't quite manage it. 
zHqVFk9h.jpg


 

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On 7/17/2017 at 8:30 AM, apeacock said:


Need to extend both my o2 sensor wires to fit with the new exhaust. (Any one de-pin these OEM volvo / tyco connectors) Can't quite manage it. 
zHqVFk9h.jpg

There is a specific tool that works well for all these connectors - I found one without having to buy a $$$ set (after I bought a $$$ set, of course...)

I can post the tool listing when I get home if you still need it.

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On 7/21/2017 at 11:07 AM, lookforjoe said:

There is a specific tool that works well for all these connectors - I found one without having to buy a $$$ set (after I bought a $$$ set, of course...)

I can post the tool listing when I get home if you still need it.

I had asked the guys a Bmotorsport.com about such a tool and connections. They said it does exists but for the older ones and even newer it doesn't always work perfectly. 

I bought a 24" extension set for the front and @Tightmopedman9 was nice enough to make an extension for the rear side of the cat. I spliced in the front on and used his portion for the rear. Have the new exhaust on now. Sounds GREAT! More updates to follow as well. 

 

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New exhaust, catch can, and TCV are in. 

Catch can was a long process just from the not knowing what I would need in the end. The can is a Vibrant 12697, Only $5 more then the one with two ports. Leaves room for a valve cover vent in the future. 

Hunk of Aluminum came from part of a p2XC seat. Already had the bend needed and hit the bill. The angle is what it is with such a large unit. I figure I'm really not losing that much capacity overall. 
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Fitting the can was the time to ditch the PTC element. Ordered a one foot section of pipe from Siliconeintakes.com and had Nick send me the barbs (some how hard to find when I was ordering them)
The -10 male fitting is a vibrant unit as well. All three are aluminum which allowed for my first try and brazing. I used HST 2000 rods from a guy on ebay. They worked really well and don't require flux. I considered going back and sanding down the bubbles and lumps but It's very hidden and I'd rather not mess with it further.
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Hole cut for the -10 fitting. Used some painters tape to save the pipe surface from being randomly scuffed up. Rod kit came with a stainless brush to prep the surface. I also used a file to chamfer the edges and give the rod somewhere to go. 
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The irwin clamps were perfect for the job. I used them in combination with a long steel bar to hole the AN fitting in place against the intake pipe.

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End result
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The exhaust brough on the issue of O2 extenders. Bmotorsports.com provides a wealth of connector options and had the GM LS 4.0 connector that the front sensor uses. Was able to get a pigtail setup for a reasonable price and then guy on the other end was really responsive to emails. 
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The exhaust has been lots of fun. It's a good step up in volume but is still very tolerable at 75mph
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Only really miss was I needed to bring it down to a shop so they could fit this piece. It was just too long to fit in there on jack stands.
xYNGAOSh.jpg

 

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Nice work! Did you leak test the aluminum braise joints? They look a little iffy. Tricky stuff to get a uniform seal. Did you tin the surfaces first?

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9 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Nice work! Did you leak test the aluminum braise joints? They look a little iffy. Tricky stuff to get a uniform seal. Did you tin the surfaces first?

So new at this but I'll answer yes. I brushed the surfaces with the steel bristled brush. Both sides then clamped and did the braze. This way the surfaces are rough beforehand and there are pores in the aluminum exposed to absorb the brazing rod material. 

I doesn't look like there's any tinning because I contained it to a small area around where the fittings sit. 
 

The only test I had for myself was a light test. I took my very bright work light and shined it from the inside out to look for an protrusions. 

On the bottom one of the vertical picture where the AN fitting is absent I can see how it would look like there isn't much there. But that's where the proper amount is and there wasn't much excess around the base. 

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Ah, aluminum brazing; very cool!!  I must confess, I'd never heard of that before.  Now I know how I'm going to install my WMI port bung onto the intake pipe!   Thanks!  :tup:

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