Peacocks Wagon Build


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Did get a new striker plate from ben. The new part is the thicker one so something like the above shouldn't happen anymore. I have to think it was from a overzealous fuel rail pull. I guess the good news is I can put that rail in a matter of moments now.

Troubling news is that I still kind of smell a faint wiff of gas in the car after it's parked. Idk where it's leaking from or if my garage just stinks like it still. The 

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This one I'm not sure how to explore. My striker plate being bent required a new one. The new one seems to be holding the injectors just too far off of the manifold now. Some injectors it's more visible then others but as you can see in the picture I'm getting leakage around the o-rings. I believe this is the cause of the gas smell when I first get in the car. I was considering perhaps taking some material off the two mount points for the fuel rail thus bringing it more down onto the injector ports. 


Edited by apeacock
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On 11/16/2017 at 8:49 PM, Tightmopedman9 said:

Same thing on my injectors, I lowered my rail about 1/4" with new stand offs.



Not a bad idea!

Was working on this and learned others cut there's down a bit. I guess mine have been on the edge of OK for the past year. They changed their minds about being seals all of the sudden. Working with a nice flat file to cut them down bit by bit. 

I figure filing down the manifold standoffs would do the same thing. 

Edited by apeacock
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Looking to find the Sachs SD693 clutch? Might be difficult to locate as just a stand alone part but its PHC Valeo product MZ-24 sold by Sachs under partnumber 1878 850 001

It's also worth noting you can get the clutch as a combo with a throw away pressure plate by finding the clutch spec for the 1987 Mazada RX-7 Turbo. 

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On 1/31/2018 at 10:45 PM, Tightmopedman9 said:

Why not use the ACT disc? That's what I used and it is a much beefier disc than the SD693. 

If I run out of grip on this one there's that option too but this has been fine with the 850r pressure plate this far. What ACT clutch are you using?

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S70 / V70 / C70 Hood latch 

Ever go to add some coolant after a long rest and your hood wont open? Sucks doesn't it? 

Tried all the tricks in book. Pull hard, pull harder, have someone else pull while I pull.  wedging the hood up on the drives side and pulling the crossover cable, nothing. 

I ended up breaking off the passenger side signal lamp so I could get some access to that latch. From there i let it soak in wd40 / liquid wrench overnight at first thing in the morning it popped right up.  Now it has sat in a garage for a few months and it's been really cold but seemingly overnight the latch stopped working. 

Always one to overdo it I ordered the full set of parts to replace the system. 

Two cables and the latches were just about $200 from Volvo of Lisle. The drivers pull cable even comes with a new boot for the firewall. 

Made some pencil marks on the vertical adjustment brackets so I could reference the latch height with the new ones installed. 


I did pull the boost gauge tube back through into the car but it turned out not to be necessary. 
Boot / passthrough and tube / cable shown below. Boost is blue, cable is orange. 
You can see just how buried inside there the boot is. To get a good grip on removing and installing it I figured I would need to take off the catch can, Strut bar, wiper arms, cowl and drain. 


Coming inside the car I was thinking I could maybe pull the boot out but it's not only up and behind the electronics, it's also behind that thick head shield / sound deadening material. That wasn't happening. 


Drivers side lock for reference later. Both cables feed into the same leftmost arm. Pulling cable on top, secondary cable on the bottom. 


Got smart and realized the cable can easily be removed from the new boot. The hole is very much cable size and what better to use as a pull then the old crossover cable. I broke out the best tape in the tool box, Coroplast 837x  This stuff is the stuff and it stuck even at 32*F.

With the D/s cable part way into the car I wrapped the crossover to the end, taped it in front of a good wrapping of tape and gently got it into the car. Really surprised it worked. 

Going the other way I made the transition smoother and while it came apart a little bit it worked again. Not going this means running the cable through the large open corrugated tube. Though I'm one for oem positioning when possible. 


Crossover cable stretch is small but noticeable. 

After installing the new cables and latches I took out the front lights because it leaves both latches very open. This way if it's stuck or something isn't right you can manually pop the latches.


Adjustment wasn't great. Must have moved each side 5 or 6 times and had to strike a balance between the hood gap being wrong and the hood needing a little extra push either side of it to fully close. 


Opening works way better now (though it was always a one tug affair) I think re visiting it in warmer weather might help or just give the rubber stop in the latches time to compress down. The hood contacts the radiator support via the weather stripping only. The rubber stops don't seem to touch. But any lower on the latches and it really doesn't close at all. A little bit of a bummer considering. Picture above is the pre lowered hood height. 

I thought adjustment from the inside plastic screw might have been the culprit to it not initially closing but tighter or looser didn't help. The latches have large amount of kick when you open them without the hood inplace. No doubt to help kick the hood up and out of the mechanism. 

It's unlikely but I hope I didn't tweak the hood when raising up just one side to try and pull the latch. 

Edited by apeacock
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Get some updates working here!

Carlisle was excellent, more so this year for having the chance to tune further with the man himself and even retime the car on the showfield. 

Two "mini" projects completed. I was having an issue with what seemed to be the CBV acting up at high speed. The way I setup my intake previously, the air behind the radiator was maybe being too forced into the intake system? Resulting in boost being very weird when at  75mph using cruise control and on a steepish hill. Had to really lean on it a bit in 6th to not have the boost needle bounce between 5 and 0. This also may have been the reason for hesitation at mild throttle during a 5th gear pull. 

Maybe could use a larger filter but it seems ok for now. Blue is the Eurosport original, grey is what I had and red is the new one. 

Decided to work off of the intake tube I made last year, with the availability of 3" parts oddly limited on I went a slightly different route. Using a 3-3.5 reducer -> 2" 3.5 pipe +>  3.5-4" 90* elbow -> 3.75" MAF
A little bulky but by cutting open the hole in the intake box I can fit the 3.75" MAF housing snuggly. I think this was already cut open when I had my s60r maf in there so I used the old flap wheel and here we are.
Trim is from Mcmaster Carr, had it left over from something to do with the wood deck i used to have in the back. Never used it until now. 

New intake position means moving the catch can to a new position. Probably looked and fitted and tweaked and moved for a few hours before it dawned on my how to set it up. Ended up using the same little reclaimed piece of aluminum I had it mounted on previously. 

Hard to see but the finished product lives neatly where the SAS pump would be on a 98- car. 

Bottom hole is a m8 1.25 and the top I made by drilling a hole in the body of the car (ouch). Then I used a m6 riv nut and made a threaded insert to mount the top bolt. Bought the kit from summit for $27. Seemed to work great and is well reviewed. They are available at harbor freight but the reviews suck and I'm going to guess the are imperial. (METRIC ALWAYS!!!) 

Referencing the same picture again I want to point out the use of T-Bolt clamps to mount the catch can to the right angle braket



Seems to be sturdy with some healthy flex on the bracket itself. 

Power Drive Inc express is about a 5 minute drive from me,  they have ample tube parts worm clamps, AN fittings, crush washers, and the rest of the parts that would otherwise take a day or two in the mail. 


2nd project and I can't believe I didn't do this sooner. 

I made two "offset" brackets for the p1 shifter. M66c conversion holders will know that the p1 mechanism fits on 3 of the 4 tunnel mounting holes. It can also sit low enough that the swing arm for the shifter knocks against the tunnel and makes it harder to shift between gears. Also also, the shift arm sits a little far and out to the front with the standard positioning. 

I have a crappy picture for now but basically too a large rectangle of 1/4" thick aluminum plate, copied the p80 shifter pattern onto it, layed the p1 mechanism over that. then moved it down by 10mm and left 5mm. 

Made "countersunk" holes for the lower bracket to car bolts with my step drill bit, then drilled and tapped m8x1.25 holes for the p1 mechanism. I did "beef up" the connection points with a few washers as the depth into the adapter bracket is pretty minimal and I had 30mm bolts to work with.


Improved the backyard recently as well. New fence is up and really ties the room together. 

Edited by apeacock
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Longtime coolant leak was finally addressed. The extra large -6 premade hose i picked up for the tubro swap has always fit like crap. In following with the Borg Warner guidelines for installation you want to feed coolant in from the bottom and have it exit from the top. So this has proved an issue for the 19mm side as it bumped into the lower drain port as shown. 
The back side fill had a nitrous line pulling coolant duty. This had an effective size of 17mm and seemed to just squeeze in place.

Hard to see what's going on but I found that a Pepboys by me has a "speed shop" section and they sell a great number of Russel hose ends. I used Twist Lok and needed to go down the street to get it put in place as the ends just would not slide over the barbs.



Order of operations was very annoying.

To install I had to fit the 14mm -> -6an banjo without the lower hose attached, get it only a few turns in, then fit the 45* twist lok hose end snug, then tighten down the banjo while sitting the fitting in just the right spot. In the end it would have been great to have a welder and make a skinny -6 size tube that I could bend to sit near flush with the turbo and that could be fitted by hand with ease. But this turbo arrangement is not ideal for easy line removal. When I was putting the new hoses on I remember I had the turbo out then installed the hose. UGH

Did the fogs as well, depo brand from Amazon.



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