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Peacocks Wagon Build

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nice job! use good quality aluminium crush washers and you will not have this problem ever. 





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On 9/5/2018 at 2:24 PM, gmsgltr said:

ppurrdyy front end


On 9/5/2018 at 8:30 AM, tuner4life said:

Looking good!

for sure! 

On 9/9/2018 at 8:23 AM, dougy said:


nice job! use good quality aluminium crush washers and you will not have this problem ever. 





That might have been part of it for sure. I picked up the copper ones they sell at Power Drive Inc. Good enough for industrial applications then hopefully good enough for this. No leaks after about 30 hours behind the wheel. 

Original size images here because it's cool!

May or may not be aware I have some wheels for sale. But one set is for me! Got my new rims mounted up and wrapped in Pilot Sport 4s 215-45-17 tires. 



10mm Eibach spacers are so well made and fit really well. I had some VIVA brand ones to start however they make there's with a 64.9mm center bore and these are 65.07~ 
Got them from . They ship from Poland but shipping included was $150~ for the set and that's $50 less then any set of spacers I could find here in the US. 

The lugs are 45mm Eibach studs. They are longer but maintain the 19mm head. I thought I was going to need to cut them down but they all work at the original length. 27mm is what I had in there before. 



The big draw back was going to be rolling the fenders. When I had the rims on the back end it looked like it was going to hit the fender guard and need a little bit of work. Infact after talking with @andyb5 and getting his specs from the STI BBS wheels he runs, it these would line up to the same overall width and then need some level of rolling. Low and behold they fit on the car PERFECTLY. A miss is as good as a mile here. 

The ride quality is so immediately better with this taller sidewall and new tires. I had S0-4 Pole Positions before and I think the thinner 205-45 tire was just rather harsh. 

But really if you'd like a set of these for your wagon they are awesome and I've got more to sell! 

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On 9/24/2018 at 2:56 AM, sventastic said:

Those wheels look perfect on a silver car! Love the brakes too

Looks down at myself, dressed in all grey today..... this feels right...

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If you had to choose to repair your prop shaft...

FCP full new oem with replacement warranty
Tasca (little cheaper)
Or replace the CV joint with a new Volvo one. 


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If you’re gonna spend the ~$350 on a new CV joint, just get a remanufactured driveshaft from Colorado DS. 

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9 hours ago, andyb5 said:

If you’re gonna spend the ~$350 on a new CV joint, just get a remanufactured driveshaft from Colorado DS. 

This ^

Just swap it out and call it a day. The price is just a little bit more and Colorado DS has a 1 year warranty.

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2 hours ago, tuner4life said:

This ^

Just swap it out and call it a day. The price is just a little bit more and Colorado DS has a 1 year warranty.


12 hours ago, andyb5 said:

If you’re gonna spend the ~$350 on a new CV joint, just get a remanufactured driveshaft from Colorado DS. 

I'm close to just dumping the $1100 on a new new one. However FCP says if they no longer carry a product they wont warranty it. So if the part is NLA in 2-3 years I'm unable to get a new one. Maybe CS is just the way to go still. 

New CV is $266 from

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Picked up good information from everywhere yesterday.

Volvo dealer: Will replace and warranty the Propshaft despite the car being modified. Parts cost alone $1400

FCP euro: Will replace any non consumable part "As long as it's still available" My fear was, in two years time the partis NLA and so they can't get it and thus wont warranty it. $1100

Tasca Parts: $960~ in stock but 1 year warranty and yeah..

Colorado Drive shaft full reman: $400

CDS front joint Only:$65 I talked to the gentlemen there who is outstandingly nice. Described that I had a good reman unit from him already and it made it 6 years. He said they trick is to keep the front CV well greased. If properly greased they will last a long long time. (think those CV joints that are original on my car) He's sending my another packet of grease to re do the rear joint as well just in case. 

Lookforjoe also mentioned what killed his propshaft was the heat from the exhaust. This new one isn't wrapped and maybe it should be! 

Edited by apeacock

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 Update much later. The failed part was for sure the front propshaft CV. My local Volvo mechanic always seems to make a great diagnosis. 

The grease was totally petrified inside the joint. Plan is to cover the tunnel in that area with heat tape and wrap the exhaust again (never failed when I had the old one wrapped)


 DS end looks ok still


Greased up


MOOAR grease!


Ended up being $65 for the new  joint and he sent me another packet of grease to check on the rear (which I topped up) Colorado driveshaft did a nice job. Happy to see the guy be so helpful. 

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