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apeacock

Peacocks Wagon Build

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Yea that should be what's referred to sometimes as the crush collar. The same type of thing exists in the rear diff if you need to change that big seal facing forward.

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If he was referring to the crush sleeve, it doesn't need to be replaced as long as you don't crush it more than it already is. Maintaining correct pinion preload is what is important, and you don't need a need crush sleeve to keep the preload within spec.

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If he was referring to the crush sleeve, it doesn't need to be replaced as long as you don't crush it more than it already is. Maintaining correct pinion preload is what is important, and you don't need a need crush sleeve to keep the preload within spec.

​I was referring to the collar. We had trouble with re-torquing rear diff pinions (at Volvo) when that wasn't replaced. That was back in the '90's however ;).

Since it''s the exact same part, I personally would change it. If you have had success re-using it & getting the correct preload, then perhaps it's not an issue in the AG application. However it is the same part number (meaning they didn't revise it in any way for the AG application).

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minor update, Ohlins for the rear came back. took what 3-4 weeks to get fixed?

I altered them it was on its way as they said they would order in the hose from Sweden  ahead of time. I guess it didn't happen based on the turn around time. However the hose its very fresh and im confident is slightly larger then the one on the other side. 

Next is to get the rear springs working still. No luck on Ohlins springs and I have not yet restored to the 'euro R' springs. Would like the adjustable set from Ben but they are not available yet. 

Other wise the brakes and the updated tune fro Steve have been epic. The car shifts at a little bit higher rpm and just really screams. The occasion where I will actually gun it still takes me a bit by surprise. 

Also still in need of a STC switch so under hard braking the gearbox doesn't kick into neutral. 

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OK so,

Had the rear seal replaced on the angle gear as well as the fluid changed out. No longer leaks on the hot exhaust making the terrible terrible stench.

Started in on wrapping the exhaust and got a td04 turbo blanket. I still need to finish the bottom portion but it's looking like a winter activity. The cabin is noticeably cooler now and I've hopefully extended the service life of the front shocks and reservoirs. 

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Rear Kaplhenke (http://www.kaplhenke.com/) springs and perches are in place finally. Needed to get a shop for assistance as I didn't want to removed the lower arm supports on the ground. 

The items themselves are really nice and feel well made. 

GkR0PT1l.jpg

Many minutes of brake bleeding afterwards (shop exploded the rear Brembo's cross over tube) everything was back together and no longer bottoming out. 

A slightly scary moment was putting the shock on the drivers side back in. The work being done bottomed out the shock so much so it didn't rebound and was 'crushed' to the minimum height, after removing the bottom bolts and pulling it open by hand it seems to be working normally. 

Started off with what I thought was pretty high up, moved from 9 to 12.5 'valleys' on the 325lb springs. 

CatJDnKl.jpg


9 here

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12.5 here

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Car handles better then before (as one would hope without the floppy rear end)

I have the Öhlins set to 4 of 8 in the front and back, the corner response and ride quality is excellent. 

Hoping to incorporate the delrin sub frame bushings in the next set of upgrades. 

Mechanic after affirming he bled the brakes properly (the second go around) said it drove really smooth and made no noises which was surprising. Again with a brand new suspension all around I'd hope for as much. 

 

Glamour shots while the weather holds up

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Edited by apeacock
  • Upvote 9

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Acquired some Blue Coil 450lb springs thanks to Lookforjoe. 

Following Sam Millers / Ben Kaplans suggestions to just wind up the spring seat worked very well. Replacement only required removal of the rear Porsche calipers. Thankfully these are nice and eash to access 13mm bolts that aren't all frozen up like the oem fronts tend to be. 


B5oJrCNl.jpg

I will probably pull the passenger side back out when I finally get a moment to replace the e-brake on the wagon. I'm in need of another bump stop as some how the driver side one escaped at some point in the cars life. You can also only get the buffer as a single piece. 

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Pain in the butt to get the bump stops in and out. Best suggestion in a flat blade in the top to wedge the lip down a bit, exact opposite for the install. 
Camera Shifted after I removed the jack stand but it still shows the set down effectively. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYMEOZlGkbc

Edited by apeacock
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I have new eBrake cables & all shoes, hardware removed from my wagon - if you need to change it all :)

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I have new eBrake cables & all shoes, hardware removed from my wagon - if you need to change it all :)

I might take you up on that. I think I cut my dust shields properly based on your previous pictures (though they seem to be gone now and I did it from memory) but i will certainly need new cables for next year. 


Heavier springs have made all the difference and the car now has the correct rake to it. 

Compared to the V70 XC monster truck
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M66 parts and pieces continue to accumulate. 

Spoke with one heck of a gentlemen and 78 auto down in Alabama today as he had the proper flyweel for me. 

 

Will certainly need a resurface but that's to be expected.  

FullSizeRender.jpg

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You just need a single mass flywheel, came on every manual 850 produced. You can buy one for less than $50 from most any junkyard...

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1 hour ago, Tightmopedman9 said:

You just need a single mass flywheel, came on every manual 850 produced. You can buy one for less than $50 from most any junkyard...

I thought so as well! But i'm looking to avoid potential mishaps with the altered crank sensor holes. This specific one comes from a 98 s/v70 naturally aspirated car. In babyclaudes thread he shows the difference between the two setups. 
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/170573-bought-another-volvo-i-said-itll-be-fun-i-said/?page=1

This has the all important square notches vs the round holes. 

$75 shipped was a fair offer (figure at least $25 to ship the thing) 

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Switching the polarity of the crank sensor is just a matter of popping out the pins at the connector and reversing them, but for $75 shipped you got a good deal

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