8 posts in this topic
If you need one (these all go bad), you probably know by now that the system in the '99 and 2000 S/V 70's are Denso...but Bosch makes the front 02 Sensor too. But this one is the original Denso (made in Japan... like my name here... lol) I thought I needed this and bought it on eBay (dealer wants $350 for one- FCP wants close to $200 for the same part). I saw the positive ratings and the numbers on the box so I know I was good with this one. This is coming by Friday but I'm going to have to send it back at my expense as well as 20% restocking fee.....sort of not looking good for me. But this is where we can both profit. Here is what I have coming to me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/142260189339?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It's still a great deal off of eBay but I'll do it better!! Rather than paying to send it back to the seller ($15 loss) as well as pay for shipping (more loss), I'll send it to you at my cost and you pay $70 for it. I would rather sell it to someone here. I will say I might be willing to take a little less for it, but not much. It will be new in a box (unopened) and guaranteed to fit and work! If you low ball me I'll just send it back to the seller on eBay. This is the best deal I have found so far for a brand new OEM Front 02 sensor for these cars.
Let me know soon. I do have a limited time before I have to make a decision regarding whether to send it back or not.
I'm looking into swapping my auto to manual in my 99 S70 T5.
I'm in the process of sourcing parts and came across an M56 gearbox from a 2001 C70 2.4
My question is would this gearbox work? Are all M56 gearboxes the same regardless of its paired engine?
I know that there is a M56H and an M56L, but from what I read I gather either will be fine, its just a final drive ratio difference between the 2.
Ideally I was looking for an M56 from a 1999 or 2000 S70 T5 so I'll know for sure that it'll work, but that's hard to find.
I have a '98 s70 with a broken engine (2.0 LPT). Found a pretty good parts car, but it is a '99, 2.4 NA, also ME7..
Now you might say that wow, turbo to NA swap??? Really? Yes, really, this a beater car, don't care about it being fast... it just needs to get me form A to B.
Also swapping dashboards and few other pieces, so both cars will be in many pieces, which means swapping the dash harness won't be a big issue... I guess
I have never seen a ME7 wiring before so I have no idea what I'm facing, so the question is:
a. Obviously I have to swap the whole engine harness, but what about the power distribution stuff?
b. drive-by-wire... is that part of the dash harness?
c. how can I marry the me7 dash harness to the old shell? There are some CAN trickery going on, right?
The more I think about this the more difficult it gets... but i could fix everything that is wrong with my car by using this 99 car.
By Max Meade
My car has been making noises in the front right strut whenever I go over bumps, so I took it to a mechanic today to get an idea of what is wrong. Unfortunately, once I got it up on the rack, it looked pretty bad. Although I used to baby my car, these days I just do not have the time to take care of it. It's starting to look like I will be paying for that now.
I got a quote from the mechanic (attached), who says I need to replace the shock mounts, front lower control arms, drive axles, ball joints, etc. on both sides. He seems like a trustworthy mechanic and they have good reviews, but just to be safe (had a really bad experience with my last mechanic), I wanted to run it by some of you on here who have a much better idea of what I should be looking at than me. I posted some pictures of what I say under the car as well. I really just want an opinion on whether or not everything recommended is necessary, and if they prices for parts/labor is realistic.
Hey guys, having a frustrating problem with my s70. After installing new outer tie rods, ball joints, iPd bars and pressing new bushings into '93 arms, I had the car aligned, only to have it pull to the left. I took it back and found that one of the control arms had shifted rearward on the bushings. I fixed the bushing issue so they are secure, and had it re-aligned. Guess what? Still pulls left. I took it back again, stupidly offering to pay to have it aligned again just to get it dealt with. Still pulls left! I decided to take it to another shop after asking to see the alignment sheet and figuring out they weren't touching the rear as it "was not adjustable". As we all know, it is. Lesson learned; don't take fwd Volvos to Rockland Tire in Monsey. The second shop aligned it properly, starting with the rear delta links. Still pulls left. Must be a fluke, took it back: still pulls.
At this point I don't even want to drive the car, this little issue is driving me nuts. It's a slight pull on the highway, enough that it isn't very noticeable unless you take your hands off the wheel, but in stop and go traffic the wheel wants to "roll" to the left as you come to a stop. That, and I know it's there so I can't be satisfied :P
One thing I noticed when adjusting the arms was that the front DS subframe bolt seems to be pushed back slightly. This would in theory cant the whole front of the car to the left, though I would think with alignment that wouldn't matter, or it would show up in alignment. Could this be the source of my issue? Now that I write about it and review the pictures it seems obvious that it could be, but I'd like to get some input before I spend any more time dealing with this issue.
EDIT: it occurs to me that if the subframe shifted back on the left, the bolt would be relatively moved forward. So maybe this isn't relevant.