8 posts in this topic
I have a '98 s70 with a broken engine (2.0 LPT). Found a pretty good parts car, but it is a '99, 2.4 NA, also ME7..
Now you might say that wow, turbo to NA swap??? Really? Yes, really, this a beater car, don't care about it being fast... it just needs to get me form A to B.
Also swapping dashboards and few other pieces, so both cars will be in many pieces, which means swapping the dash harness won't be a big issue... I guess
I have never seen a ME7 wiring before so I have no idea what I'm facing, so the question is:
a. Obviously I have to swap the whole engine harness, but what about the power distribution stuff?
b. drive-by-wire... is that part of the dash harness?
c. how can I marry the me7 dash harness to the old shell? There are some CAN trickery going on, right?
The more I think about this the more difficult it gets... but i could fix everything that is wrong with my car by using this 99 car.
By Max Meade
My car has been making noises in the front right strut whenever I go over bumps, so I took it to a mechanic today to get an idea of what is wrong. Unfortunately, once I got it up on the rack, it looked pretty bad. Although I used to baby my car, these days I just do not have the time to take care of it. It's starting to look like I will be paying for that now.
I got a quote from the mechanic (attached), who says I need to replace the shock mounts, front lower control arms, drive axles, ball joints, etc. on both sides. He seems like a trustworthy mechanic and they have good reviews, but just to be safe (had a really bad experience with my last mechanic), I wanted to run it by some of you on here who have a much better idea of what I should be looking at than me. I posted some pictures of what I say under the car as well. I really just want an opinion on whether or not everything recommended is necessary, and if they prices for parts/labor is realistic.
Hey guys, having a frustrating problem with my s70. After installing new outer tie rods, ball joints, iPd bars and pressing new bushings into '93 arms, I had the car aligned, only to have it pull to the left. I took it back and found that one of the control arms had shifted rearward on the bushings. I fixed the bushing issue so they are secure, and had it re-aligned. Guess what? Still pulls left. I took it back again, stupidly offering to pay to have it aligned again just to get it dealt with. Still pulls left! I decided to take it to another shop after asking to see the alignment sheet and figuring out they weren't touching the rear as it "was not adjustable". As we all know, it is. Lesson learned; don't take fwd Volvos to Rockland Tire in Monsey. The second shop aligned it properly, starting with the rear delta links. Still pulls left. Must be a fluke, took it back: still pulls.
At this point I don't even want to drive the car, this little issue is driving me nuts. It's a slight pull on the highway, enough that it isn't very noticeable unless you take your hands off the wheel, but in stop and go traffic the wheel wants to "roll" to the left as you come to a stop. That, and I know it's there so I can't be satisfied :P
One thing I noticed when adjusting the arms was that the front DS subframe bolt seems to be pushed back slightly. This would in theory cant the whole front of the car to the left, though I would think with alignment that wouldn't matter, or it would show up in alignment. Could this be the source of my issue? Now that I write about it and review the pictures it seems obvious that it could be, but I'd like to get some input before I spend any more time dealing with this issue.
EDIT: it occurs to me that if the subframe shifted back on the left, the bolt would be relatively moved forward. So maybe this isn't relevant.
Every time I look up a Volvo compression test, it's always the people with horrible compression (90-125). I was wondering what VS has on their cars. Hopefully better!
Edit: including mileage in a post would be nice