Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R


tuner4life
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On 10/18/2017 at 3:11 PM, tuner4life said:

The odd bushing/stud thing that attaches the top of the knuckle to the UCA has been discontinued from Volvo and I can't find a good part number for them at this point. With some help from someone on the forum I was able to source a pair of aftermarket versions from ebay. Good luck finding this one. If anyone wants to chime in with more info about those, please do.

 

Could you please share the source of this bushing. The PN is 9157316, and I was totally unsuccessful finding an aftermarket replacement.  

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5 hours ago, Andzey said:

Could you please share the source of this bushing. The PN is 9157316, and I was totally unsuccessful finding an aftermarket replacement.  

http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=760-960-series-multilink-mk1-pu-bushings-rear-suspension-prt

If I were to redo all the bushings in my rear suspension, I'd seriously consider buying the poly version on Retro Turbos site

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I got these off of Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-Control-Arm-Bushing-Rear-Upper-Inner-MTC-VR484-fits-98-00-Volvo-V70-/282522220893?hash=item41c7a2f95d

The parts that Andyb5 linked look very nice, but so expensive!

 

So update, the car is still running good after the fuel/water situation. We are very lucky that the engine didn't drown and it didn't get cold enough to freeze. Going to replace the fuel filter after a few tanks just for good measure.

 

Also, This car is going to give me a stroke with all the little freakin rattles. The dash will need to come out and be fiberglassed (Yes, I admit I should have done this the last time the dash was out, but I thought I could sneak by without since all the tabs were in good shape. Live and learn), then there is the exhaust rattle. I think it's in the downpipe.. Maybe the catalytic converter. I don't know, but there is absolutely nothing at all loose in the exhaust system. It sounds like there are a bunch of marbles inside of it though. Next step is going to be removing the cat in favor of a test-pipe.  I'm more of a dog person anyways.. Also, there is now a noise coming from somewhere in the front suspension area when the car is rocked side to side like on an uneven road. I put it on ramps and had someone rock it side to side with me underneath. I could hear it. It's like a "pop" sound when rocked. I checked the ball joints, sway bar links, upper strut mountings, etc, and every joint, link, bushing, etc that I could think of. Nothing is loose or moving in a way consistent with the "pop". I still wonder about the end links, but they are pretty new IPD HD links. Everything in the suspension was new in November. We did notice that if you have a hand resting on the top of the right side fender when rocking, you can actually feel the "pop" in the fender. I'm totally lost on this one. Finally gave up and figure it will either stop or become obvious soon enough..

But hey, the hatch is quiet as a mouse!

Edited by tuner4life
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15 hours ago, tuner4life said:

removing the cat in favor of a test-pipe.  I'm more of a dog person anyways..

Bahaha!  :a-farmboy:

 

 

16 hours ago, tuner4life said:

But hey, the hatch is quiet as a mouse!

So's mine; thanks again for the tip!  I wonder if there's such a fix for the rear seat-backs; I leave them down (unless they're being used) because they squeak like someone stepping on a mouse when they're up.

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21 hours ago, tuner4life said:

I got these off of Ebay:

Thanks for the link! Thats seems like last chance getting something bolt-on.  But that MTC seems to be a pack-and-reseller of cheap stuff, there is numerous bad feedback from several social groups. Hope they last long on your car! 

 

On 2/24/2018 at 5:58 PM, andyb5 said:

If I were to redo all the bushings in my rear suspension, I'd seriously consider buying the poly version on Retro Turbos sit

I wrote an email to the founder and contact person of the RetroTurbo, hope he'll reply with something. They are located in UK, while the bushings are manufactured actually in Poland where the roots of the company comes from. Since I live in former Rzeczpospolita we are almost neighbors. 

Szlachta  :cool:

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7 hours ago, gdog said:

Bahaha!  :a-farmboy:

 

 

So's mine; thanks again for the tip!  I wonder if there's such a fix for the rear seat-backs; I leave them down (unless they're being used) because they squeak like someone stepping on a mouse when they're up.

To quiet seat backs, wrap the latch bar with a few wraps of electrical tape. Replace when necessary...

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3 hours ago, andyb5 said:

I always disconnect one end link from the strut to decouple the whole away bar assembly and then move/rock the car. If the noise goes away, it's a bad endlink or worn sway bar bushing.

I'll try this when I swap back to the comets in a few weeks. The bar/bushings/links are all very fresh IPD parts. I would hope they aren't bad yet.

 

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14 hours ago, Ruhl98t5wag said:

To quiet seat backs, wrap the latch bar with a few wraps of electrical tape. Replace when necessary...

Yeah, thought of that, but that wasn't the stock solution, was it?  Was the back seat latch plasti-covered when new?

Edited by gdog
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The rear seat back catch was not covered in plastic when new. To be absolutely clear I am talking about the metal part attached to the body of the car. There will be a rubber 'cover' slipped onto the catch that sits between the base of the catch and the plastic cover panel, presumably to prevent direct contact (e.g. noise) and also act as a spacer.

The rear seat back latch isn't covered in plastic either BUT there is a small rubber / rubbery type ...thing in the latch that is used as an endstop. Presumably it also prevents rattles because it prohibits front to back movement when the latch is engaged. To be absolutely clear I am talking about the latching part attached to the seat back itself. Over time and through environmental conditions this thing gets compressed, becomes crumbly and fails. When new the colour is a dark orange. Part itself is only available together with a new latch so use a suitable replacement.

Another reason for rattles can be a failed centre pivot bushing. Both sides of the rear seat share a common pivot point. The 2/3 or passenger side (if LHD) rear seat back has a metal spike going through the pivot point where it's supposed to be 'resting' on a plastic bushing. No bushing -> noise.

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  • 6 months later...

be9c8db6-a932-400a-a20b-3e582066c1c3_zps

 

I realized I haven't updated this in a while. The R is still kicking and doing well aside from a few quirks. We still use it almost daily and while the ride is a bit rough, it hasn't annoyed me enough yet to justify the cost of coilovers or rear perches. Plus the nivomats are a nice feature if I load it up. I've been spending resources on other projects over the summer and haven't done a whole bunch with this.

Had a few issues over the summer. The first of which was the front flange of the driveshaft where it attaches to the AG. The bolts had become loose enough to start flinging grease everywhere. I reinstalled the bolts again with some Loctite. I'm pretty sure I used it originally, but who knows. I'll check them again next oil change.

IMG_20180714_163834_zpsv78dsp6k.jpg

 

The next issue was that the catalytic converter was getting plugged up. I'm running a used EST downpipe and it's starting to get bad. Even after gutting the cat, it still has an internal rattle that I just can't find. I have a lead on an Early IPD downpipe that I think I'm going to buy. It'll need a little fab work to make it work, but should be better than what's on here. Also despite being very creative with the o2 sensor spacers and restrictors, it is still throwing a code since the cat is gutted. The new(er) downpipe I am getting has a race cat with it and the PO says that he has never had an o2 sensor cove with it. Should be good to go.. If issues persist, I'll remove that cat too and get a tune that ignores the rear o2.

There are a few other small piddly issues that I'll take care of before winter, but still enjoy this thing on the daily and just figured everyone should know about it lol.

 

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Is the  cat really giving your that much trouble already =[

I don't think it was loose or rattling when I sent it out was it?? There's the option to have a new one put in there too if you don't want to further modify a new one. 

I also had the same thing happen with my driveshaft bolts. It happened on the way back from Carlisle this past May. Thankfully it was at 2mph in a parking lot and I heard one fall out. I had tools and my brand new set of race ramps in the back though. So that was a pretty quick fix! Used red loctite on them. Hopefully the impact gun can get them loose next time though. I have SS 6mm head ones in there right now. 

Edited by apeacock
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The cat was being a little restrictive, so it's hollowed out now.. The rattle is coming from further up in the system. around the elbow on the turbo. I can't replicate it when i'm looking at it, but I can hear it with the windows down. It's working fine otherwise. I have a slightly used Yother/IPD downpipe on the way, I just need to fab up an adapter to the rear section. I'm hoping to have that this week although I'll probably wait to install it till after winter. I'll probably run it with a Magnaflow race-cat for now so the CEL goes away, but once I get it tuned to ignore the rear o2, it'll be catless again.

Yeah, the DS bolt thing is crazy! I'm paranoid about them now and check them every oil change.

 

 

 

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