Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R


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38 minutes ago, icrashcars said:

Sorry, haven't read through your entire post yet, but Im looking for adjustable rear toe-bars. Where did you get these?

https://yother.com/collections/suspension/products/copy-of-p2-awd-adjustable-toe-link-set (disregard link text, it's P80).

Conveniently, the price was recently lowered $20.

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  • 5 months later...

I haven't updated this much since I've just been driving and enjoying the car. (this section of road is prettymuch closed to traffic due to a bridge repair but I have to use it to get to my house so it's been nice and abandoned lately ;)  )



I've been daily driving it all summer and it has been a champ. Just rolled over 262k miles. The 18" wheels are definitely the best looking size for these cars, but due to some road construction on my daily commute, I am going to throw the 17" comets back on for the rest of the season before winter.

I pulled it in the shop to catch up on some pesky little things that have been stacking up. I'll post about them as I go, but here's the list:

-Install 3" IPD downpipe to replace the old EST piece.

-replace o2 sensors

-rebuild oil cooler lines and ATF cooler lines

-Swap out complete ABS unit (all sensors good, and computer has been rebuilt/replaces multiple times, but still have ABS/TCS light

-Re-lube brake calipers and adjust e-brake

-Re-work better mounts for IPD skid-plate. Rubber expansion plugs no longer holding well.

-Check over suspension and replace any parts if necessary (I think rear outer toe rods from Yother are wearing out).

-Re-attach tailgate interior panels

-Right front window motor getting weak



The first thing I am working on is the exhaust. I got this done over the weekend. The new downpipe is evidently an early (possibly the first) IPD 3" downpipe for AWD P80s and was built by CJ Yother. I bought it from "Saffron-R" over on Swedespeed over a year ago because my old one was rattling.  I only got the front section, so I used a tapered reducer to adapt it to the 2.5" "rest of the exhaust". I haven't started the car yet but I anticipate a deeper sound and slightly better flow. Should be fun. I will be making an ad for the old EST downpipe soon.



And installed on the car. I am still waiting for the new 02 sensors to show up. The front one won't come out of the old downpipe, and the rear sensor at some point got tangled up in the prop shaft and the wires got shredded. I guess that would explain why the CEL wouldn't go away. 

I've got this nice 90 deg o2 spacer on the new pipe in hopes to avoid the CEL due to lack of cat.




Edited by tuner4life
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  • 2 weeks later...

Alright! Looks like the forum has finally been fixed (nobody has been able to post anything for the past week)


I got the downpipe and both o2 sensors installed and it sounds better, doesn't rattle, and CEL is gone! Feels faster too actually working correctly. This is nice lol.

I rebuilt the oil cooler lines and ATF lines. Yes, I did the oil cooler lines a few years ago, but used screw type clamps and they started leaking. I used oetiker clamps this time and all new seals/o-rings. That should hold up much better.


I re-attached the tailgate panels - check that off the list

I took the brakes all apart and re-lubed all the moving parts. Also adjusted the e-brake and greased the moving parts.

I also fixed IPD's terrible front mounting points for their skid plate. They use rubber expanding plugs that fit the front of the subframe. Those promptly failed and even after replacing the expansion plugs several times, they just weren't holding. I decided to just weld lock-nuts to the subframe. Now the skid-plate is firmly attached and won't fall down anymore. Sorry, I didn't get any pictures of this, but it's pretty straight forward.

Lastly, my biggest frustration.. I replaced the ABS motor unit with a known good one. The ABS/TCS lights went away for about 10 miles then came back on (See picture below of me thinking I actually had no lights, they came back on not 5 minutes later *eyeroll* ).


I guess I just need to find someone who can actually scan this and see what the issue is. 

-ABS motor unit replaced with known good part

-Module has been resoldiered

-Every sensor has been replaced with new

I'm honestly ready to just remove the lights from the dash.. The brakes work just fine, TCS is a joke in an AWD car, and I am not a fan of ABS anyways.






Edited by tuner4life
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8 hours ago, tighe said:

I honestly thought this place had finally bitten the dust...

Wait, what?  VS was down?!  :tongue:


15 hours ago, tuner4life said:

-Module has been resoldiered

Who did the re-solder?  I've had to do mine multiple times now.  You've got to clean off ALL the old solder first, or it will just break again (ask me how I know..  :blockhead: ).  Look at the solder joints with a magnifier; you'll see the cracks if you look carefully.   Or @Matty Moo could take care of you too: www.midwest-abs.com

Edited by gdog
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My dad did the re-soldier. He is some sort of certified professional when it comes to soldiering and micro soldering, so he definitely knows what he's doing. The unit that he repaired in my C70 about 7 years ago is still working just fine. 

I do have an unopened module from the junkyard. I might eventually send that in to Midwest ABS. I just have a hard time spending money on a feature that I don't really like anyways lol. I guess at this point it probably would have been cheaper/easier. 



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The ABS is part of how the braking system was designed so removal would be ill advised.  Beside providing ABS functionality the unit also handles the EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) so you'd worsen the cars braking capabilities.

Does the ABS not work at all or does it engage every single time you brake? You have a speedometer output so the system hasn't failed entirely.

An age related failure point besides cold solder joints in the control unit is the main connector and related wiring. If any of the pins in the big connector are corroded / misaligned / have insufficient contact it will cause issues. Same of the connector itself does not seat properly - either not locking into position or not enough mounting pressure. Wiring to the pump unit itself can also fail in non obvious ways, for example the wire(s) may look fine but will fall apart once touched.

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The ABS does not engage in a full panic stop situation. Last winter I was able to lock all 4 wheels if I push the pedal hard enough. The only time I get any ABS activity is when I'm on the brakes as well as turning a corner. (Imagine turning at an intersection with a green light.. Not coming to a stop, but just slowing and turning at the same time) Sometimes in that situation, I do feel the ABS pulsing for maybe a second sometimes (definitely not locking any wheels up so not sure why it would run). Not a consistent thing.

The speedometer has always worked.  I have checked the main plug and it seems to be clean, pins straight, and engaging fully. The 2 wires to the motor look and feel brand new and the plug is intact and fully engaged..  I'll keep checking things. Might just send the module in to rule it out.

Edited by tuner4life
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On very slippery surfaces it does not surprise me that you can get no ABS action but lock up the wheels. Design limitations and such.

Clearly the easiest course of action would be to read the codes. In lieu of that there are a few more things that can be checked.

As the system randomly turns on when turning there might be something wrong with the wiring for the front sensors. While the sensor(s) l/r can be fine, the plug or wires to the plug can fail. Or one of the tone rings has an issue. I have seen them crack from corrosion, miss teeth or not sit properly on the axle(s).

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