tuner4life

Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R

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38 minutes ago, icrashcars said:

Sorry, haven't read through your entire post yet, but Im looking for adjustable rear toe-bars. Where did you get these?

https://yother.com/collections/suspension/products/copy-of-p2-awd-adjustable-toe-link-set (disregard link text, it's P80).

Conveniently, the price was recently lowered $20.

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I've just left the camber.. If you align the toe and rotate the tires every now and then, the tire wear won't be bad.

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I haven't updated this much since I've just been driving and enjoying the car. (this section of road is prettymuch closed to traffic due to a bridge repair but I have to use it to get to my house so it's been nice and abandoned lately ;)  )

IMG_20190901_075226_zpsrl9hdk1t.jpg

received_459074194862858_zpsb90ydwfv.jpe

I've been daily driving it all summer and it has been a champ. Just rolled over 262k miles. The 18" wheels are definitely the best looking size for these cars, but due to some road construction on my daily commute, I am going to throw the 17" comets back on for the rest of the season before winter.

I pulled it in the shop to catch up on some pesky little things that have been stacking up. I'll post about them as I go, but here's the list:

-Install 3" IPD downpipe to replace the old EST piece.

-replace o2 sensors

-rebuild oil cooler lines and ATF cooler lines

-Swap out complete ABS unit (all sensors good, and computer has been rebuilt/replaces multiple times, but still have ABS/TCS light

-Re-lube brake calipers and adjust e-brake

-Re-work better mounts for IPD skid-plate. Rubber expansion plugs no longer holding well.

-Check over suspension and replace any parts if necessary (I think rear outer toe rods from Yother are wearing out).

-Re-attach tailgate interior panels

-Right front window motor getting weak

-etc?

 

The first thing I am working on is the exhaust. I got this done over the weekend. The new downpipe is evidently an early (possibly the first) IPD 3" downpipe for AWD P80s and was built by CJ Yother. I bought it from "Saffron-R" over on Swedespeed over a year ago because my old one was rattling.  I only got the front section, so I used a tapered reducer to adapt it to the 2.5" "rest of the exhaust". I haven't started the car yet but I anticipate a deeper sound and slightly better flow. Should be fun. I will be making an ad for the old EST downpipe soon.

IMG_20191005_161713_zpsj7hjqvac.jpg

 

And installed on the car. I am still waiting for the new 02 sensors to show up. The front one won't come out of the old downpipe, and the rear sensor at some point got tangled up in the prop shaft and the wires got shredded. I guess that would explain why the CEL wouldn't go away. 

I've got this nice 90 deg o2 spacer on the new pipe in hopes to avoid the CEL due to lack of cat.

IMG_20191005_215653_zpsmp3se3t9.jpg

 

 

Edited by tuner4life
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Alright! Looks like the forum has finally been fixed (nobody has been able to post anything for the past week)

 

I got the downpipe and both o2 sensors installed and it sounds better, doesn't rattle, and CEL is gone! Feels faster too actually working correctly. This is nice lol.

I rebuilt the oil cooler lines and ATF lines. Yes, I did the oil cooler lines a few years ago, but used screw type clamps and they started leaking. I used oetiker clamps this time and all new seals/o-rings. That should hold up much better.

IMG_20191009_210448_zpsnzts2haw.jpg

I re-attached the tailgate panels - check that off the list

I took the brakes all apart and re-lubed all the moving parts. Also adjusted the e-brake and greased the moving parts.

I also fixed IPD's terrible front mounting points for their skid plate. They use rubber expanding plugs that fit the front of the subframe. Those promptly failed and even after replacing the expansion plugs several times, they just weren't holding. I decided to just weld lock-nuts to the subframe. Now the skid-plate is firmly attached and won't fall down anymore. Sorry, I didn't get any pictures of this, but it's pretty straight forward.

Lastly, my biggest frustration.. I replaced the ABS motor unit with a known good one. The ABS/TCS lights went away for about 10 miles then came back on (See picture below of me thinking I actually had no lights, they came back on not 5 minutes later *eyeroll* ).

IMG_20191012_125417_1_zpsuskn4vdh.jpg

I guess I just need to find someone who can actually scan this and see what the issue is. 

-ABS motor unit replaced with known good part

-Module has been resoldiered

-Every sensor has been replaced with new

I'm honestly ready to just remove the lights from the dash.. The brakes work just fine, TCS is a joke in an AWD car, and I am not a fan of ABS anyways.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by tuner4life

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7 hours ago, tuner4life said:

Alright! Looks like the forum has finally been fixed (nobody has been able to post anything for the past week)

I honestly thought this place had finally bitten the dust...

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8 hours ago, tighe said:

I honestly thought this place had finally bitten the dust...

Wait, what?  VS was down?!  :tongue:

 

15 hours ago, tuner4life said:

-Module has been resoldiered

Who did the re-solder?  I've had to do mine multiple times now.  You've got to clean off ALL the old solder first, or it will just break again (ask me how I know..  :blockhead: ).  Look at the solder joints with a magnifier; you'll see the cracks if you look carefully.   Or @Matty Moo could take care of you too: www.midwest-abs.com

Edited by gdog

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Agree on re-soldering isnt a lifetime solution. I used Ag3Sn97 and it holded for 5 years, but now its cracked again

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My dad did the re-soldier. He is some sort of certified professional when it comes to soldiering and micro soldering, so he definitely knows what he's doing. The unit that he repaired in my C70 about 7 years ago is still working just fine. 

I do have an unopened module from the junkyard. I might eventually send that in to Midwest ABS. I just have a hard time spending money on a feature that I don't really like anyways lol. I guess at this point it probably would have been cheaper/easier. 

 

 

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Last time used thin metal handsaw, before tried red hot kitchen knife, both works well, knife melts that plastic slowly as it has fiberglass 

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The ABS is part of how the braking system was designed so removal would be ill advised.  Beside providing ABS functionality the unit also handles the EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) so you'd worsen the cars braking capabilities.

Does the ABS not work at all or does it engage every single time you brake? You have a speedometer output so the system hasn't failed entirely.

An age related failure point besides cold solder joints in the control unit is the main connector and related wiring. If any of the pins in the big connector are corroded / misaligned / have insufficient contact it will cause issues. Same of the connector itself does not seat properly - either not locking into position or not enough mounting pressure. Wiring to the pump unit itself can also fail in non obvious ways, for example the wire(s) may look fine but will fall apart once touched.

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