The Black Magic Wagon - A 1998 V70R Build Tale


NB-V70R
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Thanks! That looks like a better solution than what I ended up with. I wanted my installation to be more OEM appearing than that, but that unfortunately fell though so I will look into doing that when I revise the mounting.

Right now I am looking at just buying a custom length rod from Kinugawa, considering I butchered my other one anyway: http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawaadjustableturboactuatorrod.aspx

Still curious about the knock control. Has anyone found a good solution to preventing the adaptive knock from pulling timing before knock is sensed?

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  • 1 month later...

Brief update:

-Continuing the wastegate dilemma, I talked for a while with Customer service who eventually set me up with the shorter rod end which worked perfectly. Now everything is running great.

-The caR developed an exhaust leak from the center ball joint. Fixed right before Carlisle.

-The stupid caR also decided to start pissing out power steering fluid so a new rack is on the to do list.

-Final breakage, it spRung a small fuel leak from a crossover line up and over the tank. Really annoying because the whole damn thing was out just a year ago when pump, sender, and seemingly every other line was replaced. In addition, this line isn't sold by Volvo so it has to be made DIY style. Should be sorted out soon.

-Several other little preventative maintenance/restoration items are being taken care of this summer as well including timing belt and water pump plus cam seals. The axle boots need to be replaced soon and the PCV system will be serviced too. Basic preventative stuffs....

-I also have to get a TCV filter because the ARD unit I bought just 2 years ago is already throwing codes which can be cleared with some "gentle" tapping. I think it is just getting contaminated and needs some dirt protection.l

 

Onto more interesting items:

After retiming the cams (which were way off from the recommended specs, but now sit at a more reasonable +4 exh, +0 int), I will be retuning the car to improve power a tad more.

I purchased a new set of wheels. I am getting rid of my slightly ghetto 18 inch setup which I have run for a couple years for a nicer set of Enkei YS5s of the 17x7.5 inch variety. This time around the tires I am running are Continental ExtremeContactDW tires in 225/45r17. I am also running 5mm spacers, but I am looking into investing in better 10mm spacers (the IPD-H&R ones) to make installation easier and ensure that the wheels are 100% centered on the hubs.

IMG_20160522_154847569.jpg

The 18s were just a bit too crashy over bumps and the Verde gravity cast wheels vibrated quite violently at certain speeds despite being balanced a few times. The new set looks much more classy imo and should ride and handle much better. I do think it needs to be lower in the front now though. The smaller wheels seem to exaggerate the lack of low :( Soon enough...

Coming soon is hopefully a big order from EST for an intercooler, CAI, and Forge CBV. And.....last performance part on the list for a while is the Snabb intake pipe in black (of course).

P.S. Sorry about this being so unbrief, it was supposed to be so much shorter lol.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Another update:

Fixed the fuel leak. It was a return line from the FPR. Ended up making a rubber hose to replace it as the line wasn't available from the dealer or aftermarket. Been DDing it ~40 miles a day since I was able to get it inspected. This is the longest my car has been back on the road without a reflash or tune in a while so I'm getting fully used to the service light again haha. Had a few more little issues pop up that will be taken care of in the coming weeks. Nothing exciting feel free to move along with your day....

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/28/2016 at 3:34 PM, lookforjoe said:

You can buy nitrile fuel line splices with barb fittings. Using standard fuel line is not good at all. How many feet of it did you run ?

We ran about 3.5 feet from the driver's side across the front of the tank to the hard lines on the passenger side. What issues could the hose cause?

Edited by NB-V70R
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7 hours ago, NB-V70R said:

We ran about 3.5 feet from the driver's side across the front of the tank to the hard lines on the passenger side. What issues could the hose cause?

Unless you bought the higher quality European fuel line (Volvo #1266500 [or whatever the current # is] sold by the meter), standard American fuel line, braided or not, tends to dry rot & crack pretty quickly. It is unlikely to last more than a couple years if you are lucky. Given it's hard to access location, I wouldn't risk generic fuel line personally...

 

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11 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Unless you bought the higher quality European fuel line (Volvo #1266500 [or whatever the current # is] sold by the meter), standard American fuel line, braided or not, tends to dry rot & crack pretty quickly. It is unlikely to last more than a couple years if you are lucky. Given it's hard to access location, I wouldn't risk generic fuel line personally...

 

OK well that sucks. We used some decent quality, but def not Volvo line so I am not going to rip it out now.I will definitely keep an eye on it. The job to replace it wouldn't be too bad now really, might even get away without having to lower the tank. The next solution will have to be better. Thanks for the heads up.

Finally fixed my e brake yesterday. Only issue was some incorrect retainers on one side. Replaced those and readjusted, works like a charm.

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  • 1 year later...

OK time for a big update! I have still been slowly toiling away on this car, but I haven't really been active on here for quite a while. Some recent developments with the car (more on that later) have finally brought me back to share all sorts of fun with y'all. So here we go! Commence project catch up with Nick.

So we pretty much left off around JULY 2016 with the new wheels, tires and fuel line repairs (holding up well so far). I rebuilt the dashboard with fiberglass reinforcement. Overall, this was a huge, huge improvement to the day to day pleasantness of the car. It is still holding up well as of Feb 2018, but some of the cracks that were repaired with plast-aid (stuff's a miracle) in the trim piece right under the windshield are returning.

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I was also thoroughly revising the tune on the car throughout most of 2016. Eventually (35ish revisions later), I had settled around 17 psi and mid 11's for WOT AFR. I rarely had some mild knock usually on hot days in the summer or cold days in winter when most of my tuning was around fall and spring time. I know if I spent more time or actually utilized ambient temp offsets I could get rid of it.

MAY 2017 - Full Color Change

My father and I embarked on a mission to revive the faded exterior of the "Black Mamba" as he called it. We spent about 6 weeks from the first tear down to driving it out of the garage paint booth. I ended up going to a single stage grey metallic color from a VW. This stuff is loaded with metal flake making it absolutely ridiculous for a couple of amateur painters to get right. We had only done one other paint job at this point, my brothers truck: an '02 Tacoma that we rebuilt for his sixteenth birthday.  I think it turned out pretty well though considering our lack of experience and short time frame.

Here are some progress pics:

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0m-RuwDzOMtoV4jbKSwzGEhi6Eqhji3yuLYp2LAwIK0x5eTttpEgCvxuEbySt9v53QVAJKXXw1QsYfxbGY77kBT7KDR7dGfzJyXk4exH4mL4miNPapav3-0vHZHbNZYYXn1tBXcZld0SvJ4hRZNpztlg3FClD8vzbZf832-0_sGUkUpPDHuRg6OxO581p_6ce35x8iHpT13Fzf1vYA5s_aDBNbc5YBvNMDHskuwHWj95Tx79IvB494LUttnmQjasoUeK3I5Su3IdzUyRgnuUPQjwqqHTEq91tKWXCdBWT57gMHL4dtrPEyRrwoLvBG6Jn7ZBFieZ6vGnYydMYGKY8i4XfSROldl3YFFeKshaVX-9ogCygkpfmuYlwu3hcJ_-fgifG9B1e54N5d8Pi8r4cziM3Ri18_d9rPKeoLoinbEJQXR2wHhM-p4_2W2baS6iwP7HGggMkwx1tVH_JES6YYCWehLr-vqYwobKTALmpnl6COI5udGgKlRgYvbDT9PK3P1ROSqhvVqarHEYo4Kr9sm3qjjnELnczzyfi-UuQiXYbrI156cPv7gDgqsTlt1tDHc-r2UPHYwAmrkIHCeSW4dhdAftZTibYIGm6FBe=w1632-h918-no

Final Product:

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I had never been more proud of owning this car than after this paint job. The way the colors worked (plus painted mud guards, ugh) was awesome. Makes all the time and money totally worth it. It was redubbed "gray ghost" by my dad and damn it was hot (read thicccccc). Then, literally a month after the car was finished (and 4 days before I had to leave for NC to be back at school), a "medium sized" (maybe  3-4" diameter) branch fell and smashed the windshield and leafed (left? get it? :D ) a decent dent in the roof. Crushing (wow I'm so punny). I ended up tracking down just 1 shop locally that had a windshield in stock and a free slot for an appointment (Whew., Whew., Close one!, Chat disabled.), but the dent is still there to this day.

Edited by NB-V70R
stupid pics
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In more recent history, I spent a lot of time and money since then on computer parts and building a couple gaming PCs. Also, I have been battling around school work and my crazy new internship with a race team (top tier NASCAR team, pretty damn cool) to find free time. Most of which is now consumed by my other project car, a 1978 Volvo 242 that my friends and I are swapping in a truly idiotic 1.6L engine from a 1992 Mazda Miata. Shameless plug for our YouTube series on that car: Amateur Hour Racing on YT ( https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCV2_Q4fzZ55A243hlKeVJlQ ).

When I finally got some time to mess around one weekend, I installed a Snabb Intake Kit that I had sitting around. Tristan was kind enough to send me a slightly customized version to fit my new 3.5 inch MAF housing. I had noticed in my data logs that I was regularly hitting 4.9v on the stock housing and intake. So of course, I installed it and reflashed the ECU with my most recent tune. I had forgotten about (aka didn't check my notes that I always take) all of the things I had changed since my last flash. I think I had messed with a few limiters on the boost pressure (Maximum boost pressure reduction -- really should have changed that before setting my TCV and Load maps, and Vehicle Speed Threshold for boost reduction on gearbox signal -- same with this param). Long story short, I gave it too much juice and the boost shot way the f*** up faster than I could get out of the throttle. The car bucked hard and then *tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick*. Ouch. I am still kicking myself for how stupid I was being that day. So many lapses in judgement.

This was the carnage that I removed 2 weekends later:

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 These two rods are far too wiggly for my taste. Luckily, a friend from work lent me some garage space as long as I need it to tear apart the entire engine. My amazing roommates are also letting me borrow their cars until I get mine rebuilt. 

I have H-Beam Rods coming with a set of Glyco sputter bearings, Hastings rings, plus all the goodies to replace everything that has been in their relative locations for up to twenty years. I am going to hit the Pull a Part (if it'll stop raining on all my free days) and see if I can grab some N/A cams and an R manifold (It looks easier to remove in car. Am I crazy?) or Japanifold (if I'm lucky). It is a real shame I'm not upgrading the turbo while I have it off, but I have made a personal commitment to manual swapping before that.

That's pretty much everything up to date. Thanks for sticking with me through that mind dump! I'll try to grab more pics and things as parts arrive and I get it going again.

P.S. Yes, I'm going to be much more careful when I finally get running again. It seems like I'm going to have to rebuild my turbo control maps from scratch again. Anyone interested in a video series on anything I'm doing?

Edited by NB-V70R
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On 2/8/2018 at 12:23 PM, Mesoam said:

did you spray the car with bumpers, hood e/t/c all still mounted?

Yeah most things were still attached.  The side skirts, mud guards, and trim around the trunk windows were removed and painted separately.

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  • 1 month later...

Car has actually been running and driving for a few weeks. I was fighting a dying battery and the car has been pissing oil, especially under boost. Been keeping it from running low maybe once a week as it goes down. New rod bearings are staying nice and lubricated with fresh oil anyway haha. I was able to trace down the drain tube O-ring as the suspected culprit with a cell phone camera. I'm tackling that this weekend finally because work has been pretty hectic as of late (NASCAR in peak season woohoo). i'm also going to drill out the PCV "valve" as I neglected to do that initially when I installed the new intake tubing. My theory is that the larger diameter at the same general airflow has a lower velocity past that hole and it is failing to extract/relieve the crankcase pressure as effectively as stock.

I also spent some time refining the MAF constant to get the drivability to be a tad better and to reduce the LTFTs. I'm within a couple percent either way now.

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  • 1 month later...

Kinda neglected the updates on the thread because of finals and work and yadda yadda. I've fixed the oil leak. It was a torn O-ring on the return tube - no biggie.

Car is throwing a CEL for the BCS. I had this before and installed an inline filter to solve the problem last time, but honestly I have just lost faith in the ARD solenoid and I'll be investing in a Pierburg when my bank accounts recover.

Also still have to play around with the MAF constant. Has anyone who performed a significant MAF upgrade have to change any other parameters besides the MAF map to achieve prior drivability? The more I play around with the MAF scaling, the more it seems like other things need to be modified as well such as acceleration enrichment and so on. Thanks for any insight!

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