Hey guys. I’m currently about to purchase a 850 Awd in regent red (I think that’s the colour). I’m just wondering what I should look out for if there is anything. I have a 94 T5 so I’m pretty confident, just entirely unsure about the awd system. Also what kind of power figures can I expect to push through this awd system, and what’s the torque split? I’m guessing it’s front bias? Again I have no experience with the awd, only the fwd so any help is appreciated. If anyone could point me in the right direction for aftermarket parts for the awd that would be sweet.
I’m planning on around 400awhp and daily driven. Yes I know this will be a fairly substantial build but I have nothing but time. Thanks for any help👍🏾
Sadly I have to let go of my swap kit as I am moving and can't take it with me. I have a M56H that I pulled from a 1998 V70 with roughly 150K on it. I have the whole swap kit other than the clutch and the flywheel. It will include the transmission, all the hard lines, the pedal assembly, the shifter assembly, the shifter cables, and other related parts. SOLD. I am in Augusta GA. I will not ship but can travel a reasonable distance to meet with someone. I can get more pictures upon request.
By Mr Foogie
I recently finished swapping out the transmission for my s80 t6 after it ripped through the old one 😑. After sitting for some time the ETM failed, so I sent it out for a rebuild. Works well other than on startup for the most part. It takes on average about two or three times cranking it for about three or four seconds apiece. I don't smell raw fuel or anything in the exhaust, so I don't believe it's flooding itself. The tach jumps around erratically when starting though which is suspect to me.
It didn't have either of these issues before the tranny swap as far as I can remember. In my own research I found some people cited the tach jumping on startup can be caused my missing or corroded ground wires, but I've checked all the ones I know of - there are three underneath the fuse box that look in decent shape, one under the airbox that's good as well, and three on the passenger side of the car by the antifreeze reservoir. I didn't do work on the rear of the car so I can't see there being issues with the ones coming off the negative of the battery terminal. I heard of one going from the engine block to the tranny but can't find it. Could anyone provide a picture or description of where it is? I might also be barking up the wrong tree with this grounding thing. It's the only thing I can think of though.
I scanned it and it has codes p0157 (O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 2), p0455 evap emissions gross leak, p1113 (ambient air temp sensor), and p1332 (knock sensor). The ambient air temp code is caused by my drivers sode mirror having the wrong plug - the guy I got the car from ordered the wrong mirror. The other three codes clear though but return slowly after a bit of driving. I really don't think I have a gross emissions leak, but I haven't done a smoke test or anything so I suppose I can't rule that out.
Just installed new PCV into a S90, thought I share some step by step. I have done this on the 850 but on the S90 it seems more complicated getting the intake manifold out because of the engine orientation. You should take photos of everything you take apart if this is your first time so you remember how to put it back together.
Also, the PCV parts, I noticed some volvo dealers are selling 1993 960 for less than $40 online. Looking at the diagram it appears to be the same for the S90 at a much lower price. I wished I knew before buying the parts.
1) remove the power steering reservoir will give you more space to reach the left two bolts to take the manifold off.
the power steering reservoir 3x 12mm bolts are behind the round pulley, there are access holes on the pulley but you also need to take the serpentine belt off.
2) you may need to remove the thermostat housing too. (2 T-40)
3) open the blue cap at the end of the fuel rail, press the valve to lower fuel pressure. Gas will spill out so put a towel there.
4) remove the throttle cable assembly (two pieces) 5x 10mm bolts.
5) now you have room to take the fuel rail aluminum cover off, and gently pull on the fuel injectors to remove the fuel rain completely. disconnect any cables and vacuum
hoses that get in the way. take photos so you remember how to put it back together.
6) remove the air filter box cover, remove the air intake snorkel, and the big plastic elbow connecting the throttle body. Lots of wires and vacuum hoses to disconnect. take photos before you pull that apart.
7) now begin to remove a bunch of 10mm bolts holding the intake manifold to the block. they're on top, bottom, and one 13mm NUT at the very bottom that's very difficult to get to by touch only. Some of those 10mm bolts are hidden, so take a flash light and look! when they are all removed the manifold will move and you can pull it out.
8) Once the intake manifold is out you can see your intake valves, look for any gunk built up on top of the valves and clean gently as necessary.
9) unbolt 10mm from the PCV breather box. along with connecting vacuum hoses. Check the vacuum tree, it has 6 ports, only one is unused with a cap. My vacuum cap was cracked with holes probably causing a vacuum leak. Check and replace the vacuum cap and any replace any old vacuum hoses. They're cheap and local autopart store carry them.
10) Most difficult was getting some of those 10mm bolts off the manifold, and that 13mm nut way at the bottom. There are also some space issues moving everything out of the way to get to the PCV. Give yourself a good 5 hours because those 10mm and the 13mm can ruin your day.