What Is Valve On Air Intake Near Turbo 850, 1994
Started by
Guest_Guest_Greg_*_*
, Feb 18 2005 03:19 PM
13 replies to this topic
#1 Guest_Guest_Greg_*_*
Posted 18 February 2005 - 03:19 PM
HINT: This might be a great question for Rich!
I have a 1994 850 turbo with 385,000kms on it! It runs great and the Volvo shop I bouhgt it off of had the turbo changed just before I bought it. They forgot however to clean out the "PCV" I think and so I was seeing blue smoke sometimes.
I decided to clean it myself and noticed that a rubber fitting on the air intake just before my Turbo is kind of rotted away. The oil seems to have eaten it over time. I think this is where the "PCV" is.
In this rubber fitting sits a hard plastic "valve" that is used to purge the gases from the crankcase. A large pipe come from the crankcase under the intake manifold (i.e. positive pressure in here) and a samller vacuume line is also on the "valve" which help get the gases out of the crankcase. From reading the forums I have also determined that the electrical connector on here is to keep the gases warm so they do not turn into liquid oil.
The dealer says that I have to buy the whole pipe. But that seems stupid to me. I took a part number (3507985) off the rubber fitting but the dealer says it does not exist and that it is probably just a "stamp" number whatever that is.
BTW, the metal sleeve and small hole in the bottom of this device was plugged up with hard carbon (i.e. caked oil I guess). I scrapped it all clean and now I no longer get any blue smoke when the turbo is used! Thanks to everyone here for the tips on how to do this.
My question is: Can I buy just that rubber piece that fits into the top side of the intake air pipe near the turbo or do I have to purchase a whole new air intake pipe (i.e. from the air filter box to the turbo)?
Also, what the hell is that thing called? Is it the "PCV" or part of it?
If I cannot buy it, what kind of gasket or epoxy or RTV could I use to "glue this rubber fitting to the intake manifold and avoid any air leaks? I guess something that is not prone to breaking down when exposed to higher temps and oil.
Thanks,.
Greg Bowie
Montreal, Quebec.
I have a 1994 850 turbo with 385,000kms on it! It runs great and the Volvo shop I bouhgt it off of had the turbo changed just before I bought it. They forgot however to clean out the "PCV" I think and so I was seeing blue smoke sometimes.
I decided to clean it myself and noticed that a rubber fitting on the air intake just before my Turbo is kind of rotted away. The oil seems to have eaten it over time. I think this is where the "PCV" is.
In this rubber fitting sits a hard plastic "valve" that is used to purge the gases from the crankcase. A large pipe come from the crankcase under the intake manifold (i.e. positive pressure in here) and a samller vacuume line is also on the "valve" which help get the gases out of the crankcase. From reading the forums I have also determined that the electrical connector on here is to keep the gases warm so they do not turn into liquid oil.
The dealer says that I have to buy the whole pipe. But that seems stupid to me. I took a part number (3507985) off the rubber fitting but the dealer says it does not exist and that it is probably just a "stamp" number whatever that is.
BTW, the metal sleeve and small hole in the bottom of this device was plugged up with hard carbon (i.e. caked oil I guess). I scrapped it all clean and now I no longer get any blue smoke when the turbo is used! Thanks to everyone here for the tips on how to do this.
My question is: Can I buy just that rubber piece that fits into the top side of the intake air pipe near the turbo or do I have to purchase a whole new air intake pipe (i.e. from the air filter box to the turbo)?
Also, what the hell is that thing called? Is it the "PCV" or part of it?
If I cannot buy it, what kind of gasket or epoxy or RTV could I use to "glue this rubber fitting to the intake manifold and avoid any air leaks? I guess something that is not prone to breaking down when exposed to higher temps and oil.
Thanks,.
Greg Bowie
Montreal, Quebec.
#2 Guest_Guest_Greg_*_*
Posted 18 February 2005 - 03:23 PM
One thing I forgot to mention.
When I was at the dealer looking at a new air intake pipe with all the fittings and everything, they seem to have redesigned it and now there are 2 vacuum lines on it. One on the "PCV" thing itself and one on the intake air pipe. They are both bigger fittings at least twice as big as the single vacuum line from my pipe.
If I do have to sue the new pipe, how do I supply vacuum to these 2 lines? Do I need a T and conenct them both to the same vacuum point as the old one?
I'm confused!
Thanks
Greg Bowie
When I was at the dealer looking at a new air intake pipe with all the fittings and everything, they seem to have redesigned it and now there are 2 vacuum lines on it. One on the "PCV" thing itself and one on the intake air pipe. They are both bigger fittings at least twice as big as the single vacuum line from my pipe.
If I do have to sue the new pipe, how do I supply vacuum to these 2 lines? Do I need a T and conenct them both to the same vacuum point as the old one?
I'm confused!
Thanks
Greg Bowie
#3
Posted 18 February 2005 - 03:40 PM
That little piece you need is called a solenoid valve connector. Part number 1389574.
Here is a pic of it extracted from VADIS, the part being highlighted in blue.
Here is a pic of it extracted from VADIS, the part being highlighted in blue.
- Sean
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
-'95 850 T5 White/Tan (SOLD) // '92 244 5-spd White/Blue // '04 Saab 9-5 Aero Sportcombi 5-spd Navy/Black/Carbon
#4
Posted 18 February 2005 - 04:30 PM
Is that part number for the hard plastic item, the rubber piece between it and the intake air pipe or a combined unit?
p.s. And I thought this was not a solenoid valve but just a passage for exhaust gases with a heater in it. There does not seem to be any orifice that is being opened or blocked based on pressure or vacuum like you would expect from a vacuum operated solenoid.
I just called the dealer with the part# your gave me from VADIS and they have it listed as one of those rubber elbows. I already bought one for another vacuum leak.
It would be really cool if I had a number to order the actual solenoid valve.
Thanks for trying.
Greg (confused)
p.s. And I thought this was not a solenoid valve but just a passage for exhaust gases with a heater in it. There does not seem to be any orifice that is being opened or blocked based on pressure or vacuum like you would expect from a vacuum operated solenoid.
I just called the dealer with the part# your gave me from VADIS and they have it listed as one of those rubber elbows. I already bought one for another vacuum leak.
It would be really cool if I had a number to order the actual solenoid valve.
Thanks for trying.
Greg (confused)
Edited by GregBowie, 18 February 2005 - 06:27 PM.
Greg
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
#5
Posted 18 February 2005 - 06:46 PM
Greg,
not to be difficult, but you get more help if you post your question to the board in general, and not directed to Rich.
If you ask for Rich, then nobody jumps in
not to be difficult, but you get more help if you post your question to the board in general, and not directed to Rich.
If you ask for Rich, then nobody jumps in
John, Sarasota, FL
'01 V70 T5, '07 S60 2.5T
'01 V70 T5, '07 S60 2.5T
#6
Posted 18 February 2005 - 06:48 PM
Agreed. Sorry, I'm a newbie here.
So, has anyone ever changed this part on their car? If so did you need to buy the whole pipe?
Thanks again. You guys are great.
Greg
So, has anyone ever changed this part on their car? If so did you need to buy the whole pipe?
Thanks again. You guys are great.
Greg
Greg
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
#7
Posted 18 February 2005 - 07:19 PM
Last week there was post about this same question on the brickboard. The setup is called PCT vs the typical PCV in N/A engines
Somebody had increased crankcase pressure in the engine and he traced it back to a plugged up solenoid valve
The valve was completely plugged, and him being so cheap(his own words)
decided to clean it to save some dough. He used a pipe cleaner soaked in carb cleaner to get it clean. It took a while to clean it, and he did it without removing the valve from the large intake hose. With that valve open, his crankcase pressure was back to normal.
The valve is a warmer, to prevent condensation of the crankcase fumes going into the turbo. I presume that if the warmer has failed the valve would clog up with cold fumes.
Hope that helps.
Somebody had increased crankcase pressure in the engine and he traced it back to a plugged up solenoid valve
The valve was completely plugged, and him being so cheap(his own words)
The valve is a warmer, to prevent condensation of the crankcase fumes going into the turbo. I presume that if the warmer has failed the valve would clog up with cold fumes.
Hope that helps.
John, Sarasota, FL
'01 V70 T5, '07 S60 2.5T
'01 V70 T5, '07 S60 2.5T
#8
Posted 18 February 2005 - 07:41 PM
Thanks John, that helps a lot. I'll be removing the air pipe this weekend and see about getting this PCT valve installed properly with no air leaks. (It's going to be warm in Montreal this weekend, only minus 8 degrees celcius!)
As stated in the thread on the Brickboard, a good time to check the status of the air pipe connection to the turbo for wear.
Thanks.
Greg
Montreal, Quebec
As stated in the thread on the Brickboard, a good time to check the status of the air pipe connection to the turbo for wear.
Thanks.
Greg
Montreal, Quebec
Greg
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
#9
Posted 18 February 2005 - 08:06 PM
minus 8 Celsius, OUCH. I hope you'll be working inside a warm garage this weekend.
Heck is 52 F here in Florida and I am cold. I am spoiled
Keep warm
Heck is 52 F here in Florida and I am cold. I am spoiled
Keep warm
John, Sarasota, FL
'01 V70 T5, '07 S60 2.5T
'01 V70 T5, '07 S60 2.5T
#10
Posted 18 February 2005 - 09:00 PM
Unfortunately no garage handy.
I'll slip the long johns on and drink some coffee.
p.s. My sister is spoiled as well. She lives in Largo, FL right next to you.
Greg
I'll slip the long johns on and drink some coffee.
p.s. My sister is spoiled as well. She lives in Largo, FL right next to you.
Greg
Greg
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
#11
Posted 19 February 2005 - 12:35 AM
You have to buy the whole pipe, you can't get just the item thats colored in blue above. That is a heater circuit to keep the exhaust gases hot so they won't condense worse than they do and really oil up the insides of your pipes.
#12
Posted 19 February 2005 - 02:18 AM
We changed that very pipe last week also. Unreal a turbo with more km's than ours!
1994 850 Turbo
#13
Posted 19 February 2005 - 11:02 PM
Volvo and some other automakers are starting to only sell assemblies.
For instance, if you want to but a front turn signal housing and lens for an 850, you also have to buy a bulb and socket.
I'll bet thst their intention is less labor and return service calls.
I guess that we will just have to save the extra parts when it seems sensible.
For instance, if you want to but a front turn signal housing and lens for an 850, you also have to buy a bulb and socket.
I'll bet thst their intention is less labor and return service calls.
I guess that we will just have to save the extra parts when it seems sensible.
96 855R ... 64 544...67 P1800,...95 854
(the first 3 are mine,heh,heh.) 485,000 Volvo miles put on 9 bricks
(the first 3 are mine,heh,heh.) 485,000 Volvo miles put on 9 bricks
#14
Posted 20 February 2005 - 09:19 PM
FYI for everyone.
I removed the air intake pipe from the air filter to the turbo and used some Permatex Black RTV to glue the PCT (or PCV) valve in place. Took the opportunity to clean it all out. Now everything to do with the turbo is great. No blue smoke, no smoke from the dipstick and the oil filler cap doesn't rattle anymore! Yeah!
I also changed a vacuum elbow going from the vacuum tower near the thottle body going to the fuel pressure regulator.
I do have another question that might required another thread though.
After doing these changes we went for a drive thouhg residential streets and on the highway for about 20 miles. I now get codes 443 and 232 on the A2 socket
( I always had the 232 before any of these fixes ).
I think the 443 is the efficiency of the 3-way catalytic converter. Does anyone know if this means I need to change the cat, an O2 sensor or I even saw in one thread that said it could be the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator! I thought with the proper vacuum now on the diaphram, perhaps it finally failed and caused the 443 error to come up. Does that make any sense?
Thanks.
Greg
Montreal, Quebec
1994 850 Turbo, 385,000 kms
I removed the air intake pipe from the air filter to the turbo and used some Permatex Black RTV to glue the PCT (or PCV) valve in place. Took the opportunity to clean it all out. Now everything to do with the turbo is great. No blue smoke, no smoke from the dipstick and the oil filler cap doesn't rattle anymore! Yeah!
I also changed a vacuum elbow going from the vacuum tower near the thottle body going to the fuel pressure regulator.
I do have another question that might required another thread though.
After doing these changes we went for a drive thouhg residential streets and on the highway for about 20 miles. I now get codes 443 and 232 on the A2 socket
( I always had the 232 before any of these fixes ).
I think the 443 is the efficiency of the 3-way catalytic converter. Does anyone know if this means I need to change the cat, an O2 sensor or I even saw in one thread that said it could be the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator! I thought with the proper vacuum now on the diaphram, perhaps it finally failed and caused the 443 error to come up. Does that make any sense?
Thanks.
Greg
Montreal, Quebec
1994 850 Turbo, 385,000 kms
Greg
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms
1994 850 Turbo 385,000 kms















