14 posts in this topic
Newly rebuilt engine with new timing belt ofc aaand i'm having issues. The timingbelt moves side to side on the pulleys and cogs, i thought it was the old tensioner so i replaced it. Sounded good at first but after 1 min of running the noise came back. The belt moves about 4-5 millimeters side to side. Any advice? Car runs perfect otherwise so the timing sounds like its correct.
I kept the tension on the belt while i changed the tensioner, could it be that the belt has settled incorrectly and has to be slacked off and retightened? A video of the noise, will try to get another one w/o cover.
I just replaced the timing belt in my 07' XC70. On a video I watched, the tech removed the crankshaft pulley. I tried this and realized that I didn't have the proper tool. So, I felt around the pulley and found a small cover which I removed. There were 2 bolts holding it on. The timing belt then slipped easily around the crankshaft pulley without removing it. Anyone encounter this?
Hello volvo speed!
I've been banging my head against the wall on this one.
First of all I'm an aspiring auto tech., I work in a full service shop with a few very knowledgeable master techs who had lent me some advice, but are just as stumped as I am.
I have been riding a motorcycle every day, rain or shine, for almost three years now. I need a car.. But I didn't want to just buy a car that ran, I wanted something I really wanted, that needed some work, so from day one, I would have already had my hands all up inside her.. He he
A good friend of mine, ( who is, or was, a member here.. I remember him talking about it a lot) had a 97 850R, at about 100k miles, he did a lot of top end work, new water pump, timing belt, pulley, tensioner, 5 angle valve job, p&p matching the intake through to the turbo, poly intake spacer, custom intake piping, 20G turbo, 3 inch exhaust straight back to a magnaflow, NA cams, it was a beautiful thing.
PO drove the car for about 10k miles after the modifications, purchased a new car, and the Volvo was left to sit for about 4-5 years.
PO would drive the car around the block every few months to blow out the cobwebs, but I don't think he even let it fully warm up, he said it had too much power to really put it through its paces, and all he would do is drive it around the block a few times, and park it for a few more months.
One day PO went to start the 850 for a routine spin around the block, but she just would not start.
The car sat for another year at least in this condition, with continuous attempts to bring the 850 back to life..
So here's where I come in, I purchased the car from on him not too long ago, turns out it was out of time, zero compression on 1, 2, 4, & 5. no. 3 had about 140psi.
Every intake valve was bent to hell on every cylinder with no compression, and the number two valve head on cylinder one actually broke off..
When PO had his P&Pdone, he also had a head from a t-5 he had gotten from a mutual friend, and had that p&p'd as well.
So I got a new t belt and tensioner, made a cam locking tool from scrap aluminum, and swapped the fresh head onto the block, with the previous cams and can cover.
I go to start the 850 for the first time onMonday and she started right up, but sounded a little funny..
Shut it off,restarted, without a hitch just like before, then died.
At this point turning the engine over sounded just like I had the plugs out.. No resistance from compression. Compression at this point read 20- 23 psi on all 5.
I check the timing.. Its out.. WAY out..
Pull the intake and starter, lock the crank in its safe position, set the time on the cams, put the t belt and tensioner back on, turned the key, and she sounded beautiful!!
I shut it off, put the serpentine back on, fill it with coolant, started it again, and she sat and purred for a few minutes.
Now I gave it a few revs, sounded good, gave it a little more.. MAYBE 3krpm.. the engine shuts off..
Check the timing, crank is set, exhaust cam is set, intake cam is off by 6 TEETH.
The only things that matter that are unchanged, are the cams, and the can cover.
I have no idea what would cause this to happen, especially in the first place before I purchased thecar, when PO religiously maintained it and used synthetic amsoil.
My original question was what the hell is happening.. And what could I do to mend it??
PO claims that he installed NA cams.. But now he says he can't remember switching them.
I also read somewhere that the OE cams are all slotted.. But mine are NOT.. What's going on here..
Now I'm thinking of just going to the junk yard and pulling an entire motor with good compression, and dropping it in with all of the current mods. Will a NA motor work fine with no changes? And what other models of what year use the same motor that could be dropped in and work well with said mods? Should I just get a NA 850 motor and advance the exhaust and retard the intake just a bit to work well with the turbo and be done with it?
I have such a headache with this thing.. I've always loved these cars.. Especially the boss motor thaley come with, and am tired of riding my bike in the rain.. Rainy season just started in Florida, and it takes too long to dry my boots for work the next day.. xD
Thank you for reading and any advice given.
So today at a gas station I notice coolant flowing on the ground from under my car. Upon a quick inspection I believe it's the water pump (coming from above front passenger cv boot). Luckily I was able to make it home without any problems.
I just hit 300k miles so I was planning on doing a complete timing belt job with vivas Kevlar belt kit.
i was just wondering what's the best guide people have used, and does anyone have any advice or tips before I dive in as this will be my first time tackling this. Thanks in advance everyone!
I am preparing to order all the parts needed for a timing belt change on my 1993 Volvo 850 2,5 glt 20V (NA), however I ran into a slight issue. The engine number sticker on the timing belt cover is gone and I do not have records of the previous timing belt purchases, but i do know that the break in engine numbers betwwen 113154 ond 113155 onwards has to be taken into consideration when ordering parts.
My question is, can the engine number be found somwhere else? Like stamped into the engine itself somwhere? Or can it be read (guessed) from my VIN? Vida unfortunately does not do that - if I provide a VIN it does not give me the engine number or filter the results for parts accordingly.
I know I could take off the timing belt cover and try to measure the timing belt width, but I thought getting my engnine number would probbably be more useful in the long run, for future repairs.
And while I am at it - I should probbably replace the belt, tensioner, idler, damper and water pump. I also plan to replace the cam seals, because the engine is a bit oily under the timing belt cover and a little bit of oil accumulates in the lowest part of the cover. Should I replace anything else?