96/850 150k
All,
I am planning to replace my radiator on my 850 (plastic end cap cracked). To accomplish this I have to jack the car up roughly 10 inches in order to remove the radiator from underneath. I have purchased two-ton jack stands and plan to lift the front end to accomodate placement under the engine carriage just inside of the tow rings. First of all, can I jack the car from a center point on the frame behind the radiator entry in order to lift the car all at once? Is it better to lift one side at a time? Can I lift from the center cross member of the frame? What safety concerns should I have?
Thanks!
Question Re: Jacking Up My 850
Started by kinetic, Feb 20 2005 12:24 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 February 2005 - 12:24 AM
#2
Posted 20 February 2005 - 12:28 AM
I don't work with ramps very much but I'm pretty sure if you drove your front end up on a set of ramps, you could make the radiator swap with no problem. DIY's help out here, I always get to use a lift at work.
#3
Posted 20 February 2005 - 12:51 AM
The radiator measures 16" tall- the distance from car to the bottom of radiator while it sits on the ground is almost 7 inches. I deducted I would have to raise the car 9-10 inches to remove it. I lokked ant 3-4 different ramps all have no height greater than 7 inches. Can you comment on my plan to jack the car up from center cross member?
#4
Posted 20 February 2005 - 12:54 AM
I did it my radiator replacement on "rhino ramps"
you have to realize that the car will be the height of the ramp + the height of the tire up off the ground.
you have to realize that the car will be the height of the ramp + the height of the tire up off the ground.
Joseph H. Essaye III
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!
#6
Posted 20 February 2005 - 03:41 PM
Jack the car with your hydraulic jack from the front-center of the subframe - and put the jack stands on the sides of the subframe (always use two so the weight is balanced. This should give you plenty of clearance to get the radiator out. If your jack doesn't get you high enough, you can always get it as high as possible, get it on stands and then find another jacking point to get it up higher (had to do this on a sebring because I couldn't get the jack far enough under the car - took about an hour to change the oil!).
1996 855 N/A Manual
#7
Posted 21 February 2005 - 03:01 AM
As the previous post stated, jack at center of car on the subframe crossmember (just behind the center of the wheels). Place the stands on the same member (not at the front by the tow rings where you suggested) at either side. If this doesn't work for you, you can pull the radiator out the top...but you have to pry the passenger side wiring harness out of the way and finagle the drivers side out in order to clear the ears. Pulling it out the top can be a bit irritating though.
Jens Christensen
1995 F250, 1990 BMW K75RT, 1988 745 Turbo, 1974 Honda ct90, 1973 Honda ct90, 1972 Honda cb175, 1970 BMW R75/5, 1967 Volvo 122 Amazon Wagon
Family: 1994 855 NA, 1994 945, 1992 745 Turbo
1995 F250, 1990 BMW K75RT, 1988 745 Turbo, 1974 Honda ct90, 1973 Honda ct90, 1972 Honda cb175, 1970 BMW R75/5, 1967 Volvo 122 Amazon Wagon
Family: 1994 855 NA, 1994 945, 1992 745 Turbo
#8
Posted 21 February 2005 - 04:49 PM
QUOTE(kinetic @ Feb 19 2005, 08:24 PM)
96/850 150k
All,
I am planning to replace my radiator on my 850 (plastic end cap cracked). To accomplish this I have to jack the car up roughly 10 inches in order to remove the radiator from underneath. I have purchased two-ton jack stands and plan to lift the front end to accomodate placement under the engine carriage just inside of the tow rings. First of all, can I jack the car from a center point on the frame behind the radiator entry in order to lift the car all at once? Is it better to lift one side at a time? Can I lift from the center cross member of the frame? What safety concerns should I have?
Thanks!
All,
I am planning to replace my radiator on my 850 (plastic end cap cracked). To accomplish this I have to jack the car up roughly 10 inches in order to remove the radiator from underneath. I have purchased two-ton jack stands and plan to lift the front end to accomodate placement under the engine carriage just inside of the tow rings. First of all, can I jack the car from a center point on the frame behind the radiator entry in order to lift the car all at once? Is it better to lift one side at a time? Can I lift from the center cross member of the frame? What safety concerns should I have?
Thanks!
According to both my owners manual as well as my workshop manual, you should be good to go as long as you make sure you are placing the jack on the subframe. I've done it, but not to the height you are trying for, but should work fine. Use jackstands though once you get it in the air.
Western Head, NS, CDN
'02 V70XC - @180K kms
And a whole bunch of past Volvos (7), VWs (7), SAABs (5), Land Rovers (3), etc.
'02 V70XC - @180K kms
And a whole bunch of past Volvos (7), VWs (7), SAABs (5), Land Rovers (3), etc.
#9 Guest_Guest_*
Posted 21 February 2005 - 05:59 PM
I just did my radiator last weekend on rhino ramps. There was plenty of clearance to drop it out. It seems easier to drive on the ramps than jack the car... if you have the ramps that is. If you don't have a set, they are very handy and you might want to get a set.
My lesson learned from the job was to be extra sure the oil cooling lines are seated correctly, if not, it will pop-off as soon as the engine cranks over and will very efficiently pump all the oil out in rather quick fashion... makes for a real mess
Double check those oil lines!
good luck!
My lesson learned from the job was to be extra sure the oil cooling lines are seated correctly, if not, it will pop-off as soon as the engine cranks over and will very efficiently pump all the oil out in rather quick fashion... makes for a real mess
good luck!
#10
Posted 21 February 2005 - 07:26 PM
Thanks for all the info- I completed the job, my only suggestion to others is that they guide the skirt housing (around cooling fan) up into slots (where the relay fan switch is) before tightening bolts down from underneath. I had to drop my a couple of times to align in the guides. Not the funnest job I have ever done but relatively easy.















