Simply Volvo

Simply T-5R, The Build Thread : A New Hope

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10 hours ago, gilber33 said:

Sooooooo.....any update?

Yes!!!

I have been extremely busy with my first year of graduate school and my masters thesis, I haven't had much time to work on the car or visit the forums.

In October, I pulled the oil pan. None of the orings looked messed up and there was no metal in the pan. I cleaned everything out and replaced every oring in the sump (with OEM of course).

I capped off my valve cover vents and filled it up with 10w-40 and the issue is pretty much gone. Sometimes it will flicker down for a fraction of a second so I basically just said screw it.

I have about 100+ hard pulls to 8500 on the engine and its still together and working perfectly fine @ 1200 miles. I don't think its an issue, maybe just a stuff guage.

I also took the car to the drag strip twice. The first time i went I only got in one run.

The second time i went i got in 6 runs. My best was 13.3 @ 120mph. I need to continue toying with my launch control as i kept bogging first. I also lost 2,4,R, but I think a shifter cable just snapped and the transmission didnt make any bad noises or grinding and I drove it 50 miles home in 1,3,5.

Ill try and post some vids if i have time, i have a bunch.

I also found a pretty massive exhaust leak between the turbo and the manifold that I think is killing my spool. Right now it doesn't make full boost until 6000, fixing this leak should bring it down 4500-5000. Unfortunately there is no way to get the turbo off with the engine in the car so I have to pull it.

Ill be back home from school in May so my plans are:

  1. Pull the engine
  2. Pull the trans case (replace cables or trans whatever is broke)
  3. Pull oil pump and examine and possible replace (maybe stuck spring is causing weird oil fluctuations?).
  4. Switch to a crankcase vacuum pump system (gz motorsports pump with brushless motor controlled via megasquirt closed loop rpm vs map vs crankcase pressure target)
  5. New sensor harness (post intercooler IAT, EGT, EBP, fuel pressure, oil pressure)
  6. Finish my rev2 megasquirt PNP board.
  7. Install dual bosch 044 pumps + 10mm lines
  8. Get it on the dyno
  9. Get some 24.5x8.5x15 drag slicks and race the living piss out of it this summer cause its finally working

~Matt

Edited by Simply Volvo
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Glad to hear you're sticking with it!!  Sounds like you're making some pretty awesome power!

Good luck on the car, and your masters program!

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I'm so happy that you finally got some decent results from all your hard work. Way to stick with it Matt, I'm excited to see how the summer goes!

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F*******CCKKK this car!

I...

  1. Pulled engine
  2. Milled exhaust manifold flat + new nissan turbo gasket (fixed exhaust leak)
  3. Installed new shifter cables (fix shifting issues)
  4. Order my MS3 PNP REV2 boards

Car has been running great for a few days.

Was driving it today, did a pull and the car shut off. Got it in a parking lot and MS3 was having trouble syncing. Replugged in the board and it fixed that.

Went back home to do a compression test to make sure everything was OK. 90 psi on cyl1, 120 on the rest. They're lower cause of the cams.

Looking at cyl 1 plug, the electrode was pushed all the way against the other and some metal marks. Piston was a little wet with oil and a little smoke out exhaust and catch can.

Pretty sure I snapped a ring / ring land or melted a piston.

This is COMPLETE BS. I reviewed all my logs and everything was perfect and extremely conservative. 14 psi, 11.5 AFR, 12 deg timing, no knock 100f IAT (85 ambient), 93 oct, AFR cut, boost cut all setup, etc.

WTF. I guess i need to pull the head now and see whats up.

Really getting sick of this.

Edited by Simply Volvo

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Yeah so the engine is f****cked.

Basically when I first got megasquirt working I have my crank trigger off by 12 degrees... so the ignition was advanced by 12 degree, so on those first couple WOT pulls it was running 24 degree of timing, so the engine got destroyed by knock. Cracked all the rings, messed up the pistons, spun cyl4 bearing and cracked cyl 4 sleeve... This happened first like 200 miles, I cant believe it did another 1000 miles of HARD driving before letting loose.

Car always had low compression (120 psi) and smoked a lil and wet pistons, so i guess it makes sens...

Anyway, 06R block getting 84mm darton sleeves as I speak. JE or CP 84mm 10:1 pistons, 93.2 crank, 147mm rods... etc etc. 2.6L high comp build this time :)

Ill try and post up some pics of the carnage, cause thats always fun.

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re·sil·ience
rəˈzilyəns/
noun
 
  1. 1.
    the capacity to recover quickly from difficulties; toughness.
    "the often remarkable resilience of so many British institutions"
  2. 2.
    the ability of a substance or object to spring back into shape; elasticity.
    "nylon is excellent in wearability and resilience"
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Ain't giving up yet!

This car has to work out eventually.

Maybe I just need to slow down a little and really start checking things much more carefully (even though I usually do). I should've checked timing with a light and I would've noticed the crank trigger setting I was using (which i got from another 5 cyl user) was wrong.

Live and learn I guess...

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i love u. Don't ever give up

edit: btw Matt the tune you gave me for your 19t kicks ass, and I'm pretty sure you said it was conservative. I can't even keep up shifting through the gears.

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On 6/15/2018 at 4:18 PM, Simply Volvo said:

93.2 crank, 147mm rods...

The RNC whiteblocks with 93.2 crank got tight ring pack pistons yet 143mm rods. I doubt there exists such a piston geometry allowing both 93.2 crank and 147mm rods. Unless you apply a block plate over the liners. 

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