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Simply Volvo

Simply T-5R, The Build Thread : A New Hope

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How are you finalizing the oil feed system? Is the pump going to be suspended off the lines, or are you making a bracket to anchor it to the AG? In all likelihood it's probably OK hanging off the rigid pinion line, however I would worry about vibration affecting it over time. What failsafe will you have to monitor the pump over time, or is it intended for the harsh automotive environment?

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On 8/28/2020 at 8:26 AM, lookforjoe said:

How are you finalizing the oil feed system? Is the pump going to be suspended off the lines, or are you making a bracket to anchor it to the AG? In all likelihood it's probably OK hanging off the rigid pinion line, however I would worry about vibration affecting it over time. What failsafe will you have to monitor the pump over time, or is it intended for the harsh automotive environment?

I planed on just suspending it off the hard lines... or orienting it and mounting it with a u bracket to the steering rack.

The pump is a 2-4 psi low pressure fuel lift pump for a carb. Its self priming and can lift 18". Its a diaphragm pump that uses a solenoid to pull and push on the diaphragm so I am not too worried about vibration effecting it... its very very basic with very minial moving parts (diaphragm and check valve balls).

I will also have both a pressure sensor (to determine pump failure) and oil temperature (to determine heat soak) integrated.

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7 hours ago, Simply Volvo said:

I planed on just suspending it off the hard lines... or orienting it and mounting it with a u bracket to the steering rack.

The pump is a 2-4 psi low pressure fuel lift pump for a carb. Its self priming and can lift 18". Its a diaphragm pump that uses a solenoid to pull and push on the diaphragm so I am not too worried about vibration effecting it... its very very basic with very minial moving parts (diaphragm and check valve balls).

I will also have both a pressure sensor (to determine pump failure) and oil temperature (to determine heat soak) integrated.

 

Sounds like you have it covered - I do think if you use any sort of mount bracket it need to be on the drivetrain, so it can move with it under load. Putting it off the rack sounds like adding more stress to the lines, unless you make them longer & allow for the drivetrain arc under load.

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Congrats! Must feel good to have got beyond the first run :D

That coolant sensor (blue tip) is supposed to have a crush washer - did you add one?  Also the oil pump & sender looks really close to the PS rack - I would think under hard launch you may get contact from the torque movement. Did you use a rigid mount under the crank? I had to wire my Volvo mount - back with 500AWHP it just ripped them apart otherwise.

Make sure you never use that shockproof HD in the transaxle - it will absolutely fuck up your shifts 

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51 minutes ago, lookforjoe said:

Congrats! Must feel good to have got beyond the first run :D

That coolant sensor (blue tip) is supposed to have a crush washer - did you add one?  Also the oil pump & sender looks really close to the PS rack - I would think under hard launch you may get contact from the torque movement. Did you use a rigid mount under the crank? I had to wire my Volvo mount - back with 500AWHP it just ripped them apart otherwise.

Make sure you never use that shockproof HD in the transaxle - it will absolutely monkey up your shifts 

Thanks!

Yes I added a crush washer to the coolant sensor as well as thread sealant and torqued to 25nm as per the Bosch datasheet.

The oil pump and senor array have about 1" clearance to the rack. I made some changes to make some more room.

All 6 engine mounts are Polyeurethane. The engine is basically solidly mounted so Im not too concerned about it moving 3/4-1" and causing contact with the pump. Well see though, this is enough to get me driving for now.

Shockproof is only going on rear diff and angle gear. Trans fluid is going to be a special concoction.

Edited by Simply Volvo

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Matt - did you also increase the ID of the rigid & plastic lines inside the senders? I had done that, along with cutting a chunk out of the main sender housing to allow more rapid drawback into the tank.

Don't solder any harness connections moving forward - crimp all new terminals.

I hope that IC is not as low as it appears!

Definitely issues arise when running lowered suspension w/AWD. On my C30, over heavy highway bumps the ear on the CV Oetiker clamp hit the fuel tank filler hose - fortunately didn't cut through the hose in my case. My dampers were also set too soft, and I had to raise the spring seat 1"

Good deduction on the boot OD & damper settings.

Did you buy the later AWD front subframe tie brackets (the triangular ones)? They are more substantial than other model & earlier AWD version.

9480184

V70-XR-0782.jpg

I'd look for a lower profile elbow for the AWD sump - that just looks ripe for snagging & ripping off if you go over any road debris.

 

V70-XR-0050.jpg

 

V70AWD_00014.jpg

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2 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Matt - did you also increase the ID of the rigid & plastic lines inside the senders? I had done that, along with cutting a chunk out of the main sender housing to allow more rapid drawback into the tank.

Don't solder any harness connections moving forward - crimp all new terminals.

I hope that intercooler is not as low as it appears!

Definitely issues arise when running lowered suspension w/AWD. On my C30, over heavy highway bumps the ear on the CV Oetiker clamp hit the fuel tank filler hose - fortunately didn't cut through the hose in my case. My dampers were also set too soft, and I had to raise the spring seat 1"

Good deduction on the boot OD & damper settings.

Did you buy the later AWD front subframe tie brackets (the triangular ones)? They are more substantial than other model & earlier AWD version.

9480184

I'd look for a lower profile elbow for the AWD sump - that just looks ripe for snagging & ripping off if you go over any road debris.

 

 

 

Hey H,

I did not increase the the ID of the senders (I did cut a chunk out of the sender though). Just used 5/16 -> 3/8 quick connect 90 elbows. I don' think increasing the sender lines is going to significantly lower siphon pump back pressure. The DW300 (340LPH) is just too much fuel volume for the siphon and I have talked to others who have had issues with not being able to go below 40-45 psi fuel pressure. Even with the stock 255 I bet the back pressure is still going to be 25-30 psi. I am simply going to PWM the intank pump and add a pressure sensor to the surge tank and used closed loop control to target X surge tank pressure (the same as siphon back pressure). At idle I will probably only really need 15-20% duty cycle. By targeting siphon back pressure I can effectively fill the surge tank with only as much fuel as it needs at a given moment to maintain proper siphon back pressure and still have it remain effective.

I did not know there was a different bracket. I noted the PN and will switch to them next time I have the subframe out.

The intercooler & angle gear elbow are not as low as they appear. The AG 4an 90 actually sits slightly ahove the bottom of the oil pan and the front 850R bumper sits much lower than the intercooler outlet. Been running for 5 years no with no clearance issues.

On a side note, found the proper boot and got it ordered up... hopefully with the dampening set to max and bump stops I wont have anymore issues.

Edited by Simply Volvo
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I'm running the TS510s, with a 450lb spring at a similar ride height to you and have had no CV boot issues whatsoever.

My dampening is set around mid way and it's quite compliant/enjoyable except when carrying heavy loads or the inevitable pot hole via Ontario's god awful roads. I wouldn't change dampening to full stiff just yet, I believe the boots would solve the problem.

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57 minutes ago, quiksilver said:

I'm running the TS510s, with a 450lb spring at a similar ride height to you and have had no CV boot issues whatsoever.

My dampening is set around mid way and it's quite compliant/enjoyable except when carrying heavy loads or the inevitable pot hole via Ontario's god awful roads. I wouldn't change dampening to full stiff just yet, I believe the boots would solve the problem.

Im using Volvo 960 axles which have a much larger CV so I think that's the reason im having the issues. Stock AWD axle CVs are a lot smaller in diameter so probably why no one else on max low has had this issue.

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2 hours ago, Simply Volvo said:

Im using Volvo 960 axles which have a much larger CV so I think that's the reason im having the issues. Stock AWD axle CVs are a lot smaller in diameter so probably why no one else on max low has had this issue.

I totally forgot you're running beefed up axles, my bad.

Fingers crossed, I can't wait to see this thing do its first pull.

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@lookforjoe

Oh BTW! I think I finally figured out why the surge tank cracked on you long ago when you had your wagon... must be the 40 psi of back pressure inside the tank due to the AWD siphon pump. When I ran the surge tank FWD, I had no issues with any further cracks because the back pressure was probably 0-5 psi. Tank cracked this weekend. Must've been the back pressure.

I ended up grabbing a DW 3.5L surge tank to replace it. Going to swap over my pumps and fittings. Hopefully it can hold the pressure. Its also anodized inside to prevent corrosion from E85. Maybe the use of E85 also had a role in the cracks. I will also PWM the intank pump using a Solid State Relay to try and limit pressures to only 15-20 psi back pressure. Ill most likely implement a closed loop PID control using a pressure sensor on the surge tank. This way I can target a pressure and it will duty the pump up when the tank needs more fuel to hold a certain pressure (IE engine under significant load). Should be enough to keep the siphon working hopefully but significantly less stress on the surge tank.

https://www.deatschwerks.com/sites/www.deatschwerks.com/files/DATA/DW3.5L Tech Sheet.pdf

Surge Tanks

Edited by Simply Volvo

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