Simply T-5R, The Build Thread : A New Hope


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10 minutes ago, andyb5 said:

What spring rate are you running with the QA1s? 

550lb. QA1s are 4 clicks down from max dampening.

I'm most likely going to remove a front axle which will effectively make the car RWD... then I can tune the rear suspension. Since the viscous coupler is deleted there will be no damage. Then I can tune it for max traction RWD and then try AWD again.

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Do you know what spring rate the QA1s valved for?  Is there a mismatch between the valving of the QA1s and your spring rate that’s impacting the articulation of the rear suspension? 
 

To test it in RWD, I recommend removing the passenger axle. Get a cheap parts store axle and separate it at the CV joints. To stop debris from getting into the AG and to prevent fluid leaking out, stab the inner shaft in the transmission and AG - the carrier bearing will hold it in place. Run the outer CV cup in the whee bearing so the tone ring is there to keep the ABS happy. It’s more work but it keeps everything functioning properly. 
 

I did that on my 99 R for a couple of weeks  in college.

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I think the issue has been resolved. Right after converting to full time 4WD I think I was hitting oil pressure cut which was making it seem like I was hitting limiter so i was never getting complete pulls. The car absolutely pulls like an animal now in 2nd with it locked 4WD. 1st still spins but 2nd is insane. I still think the viscous coupler was monkeyed as it doesn't slam limiter in 2nd now. Just pulls with full traction. Next Ill try the known working VC once it arrives.

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I think you should also raise the rear so you have at least an inch or more before bump stop - it may have some rake when not loaded, but once you launch it won't stay that way for long :D

 

XRmotegis-A.jpg

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22 minutes ago, lookforjoe said:

I think you should also raise the rear so you have at least an inch or more before bump stop - it may have some rake when not loaded, but once you launch it won't stay that way for long :D

I trimmed my bump stops today. It has a solid 1" now. I might raise up the rear a tiny more. I also soften up my dampening a ton. Now I am 8 clicks from softest. The car rides normal again. It was horrible with maxed dampening.

I need to start putting together a stainless exhaust system. The open 3.5" down pipe sucks and you can't hear yourself think. Definitely going to use a Borla XR-1 again and probably add a resonator too like a vibrant bottle style.

Might have a TIG welder coming in the mail soon so this will be a good first TIG project.

Edited by Simply Volvo
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15 hours ago, Simply Volvo said:

I think the issue has been resolved. Right after converting to full time 4WD I think I was hitting oil pressure cut which was making it seem like I was hitting limiter so i was never getting complete pulls. The car absolutely pulls like an animal now in 2nd with it locked 4WD. 1st still spins but 2nd is insane. I still think the viscous coupler was monkeyed as it doesn't slam limiter in 2nd now. Just pulls with full traction. Next Ill try the known working VC once it arrives.

Awesome, glad to hear it’s working as expected! I hope we’ll get some video of a pull soon :cool:

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19 hours ago, Simply Volvo said:

I trimmed my bump stops today. It has a solid 1" now. I might raise up the rear a tiny more. I also soften up my dampening a ton. Now I am 8 clicks from softest. The car rides normal again. It was horrible with maxed dampening.

I need to start putting together a stainless exhaust system. The open 3.5" down pipe sucks and you can't hear yourself think. Definitely going to use a Borla XR-1 again and probably add a resonator too like a vibrant bottle style.

Might have a TIG welder coming in the mail soon so this will be a good first TIG project.

 

Wouldn't hurt to go a tad higher for now. you can always lower it progressively if the hookup issue is resolved.

I had dual Magnaflow mufflers and a Magnaflow resonator, it was still very loud and the drone was still bad. Is the Borla a quieter muffler?

I used a Stainless Works Turbo muffler on my K24 swap, much quieter than Magnaflow - also added a S40T resonator :D

IMG-20191222-170515.jpg

 

Exhaust is a good way to practice TIG. Use all SS tubing, is much easier to weld, keep the amps low, & you barely need filler rod

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Nice!!! It is so much fun running a T5 motor to 8,5- 9K rpm - nothing beats the sound it makes, and with the AWD it just goes as you have found :D

*SNIP*

I still go back and watch videos of the XR from time to time.

Those runs you did in *Mexico* do the trick every time.

Love the updates Matt, it's awesome seeing it all come together.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Took a little break for a few weeks. Started back up this week and bought a TIG welder to make SS 304 3.5" exhaust. I'm really enjoying the TIG so far and picking it up fairly quick.

I purchased a Borla XR1 3.5" straight through muffler and 3.5" Vibrant bottle style resonator which are not pictured below. Also not pictured is the flex coupler which came today.

 

Edited by Simply Volvo
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  • 3 weeks later...

Looking good so far Matt!

Better to go low amp & allow the metal to fuse instead of a large bead w/SS. The V-Bands are the toughest (for me) - getting a good angle & flowing the SS Vband into the pipe. The trick is to always start on the heavier gauge piece - which is sometimes easier said then done...  This is one of mine - not a perfect weld by any means, but OK. I keep the clamp on it to reduce warping the flange from the heat. The main thing with SS is to STOP if the metal gets too hot - I'm bad at that as I'm not a patient person by nature 

Curious why you didn't opt for some Mandrel bend sections - makes life much easier, except for really tight areas like the DP/hotside bend. 

IMG-8987.jpg

 

IMG-8938.jpg

 

Some blobby welds visible here.

IMG-8946.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, lookforjoe said:

Looking good so far Matt!

Better to go low amp & allow the metal to fuse instead of a large bead w/SS. The V-Bands are the toughest (for me) - getting a good angle & flowing the SS Vband into the pipe. The trick is to always start on the heavier gauge piece - which is sometimes easier said then done...  This is one of mine - not a perfect weld by any means, but OK. I keep the clamp on it to reduce warping the flange from the heat. The main thing with SS is to STOP if the metal gets too hot - I'm bad at that as I'm not a patient person by nature 

Curious why you didn't opt for some Mandrel bend sections - makes life much easier, except for really tight areas like the DP/hotside bend.

Some blobby welds visible here.

 

Thanks H for the tips. I definitely have found using pulse and fusing the metal together to be the most effective and easiest.

I spent a lot of time tuning in the CUP size, gas flow, etc was getting lots of nasty black SS welds in the beginning.

I didn't opt for mandrel because the DP needs to use 2" CLR and I wanted as much weld practice as possible.

Im quite over the pie cuts at this point though... getting better at welding (still blobby and some pinholes), but getting there!

I don't think i will buy prepolished SS again. The welds are weird. They get this weird shiny brown color. Maybe im still using too much heat (50A 1hz pulse 25-50% DC), but Ive been told its left over polishing compound that is hard to remove before welding.

Here is some of my latest progress (you'll notice me mention a lot of things you said too) as I've had other tell me the same.

 

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