Simply T-5R, The Build Thread : A New Hope


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Tuned out some suspension issues the past 2 weekends. Had issues with the larger 960 axles grinding on full suspension compression.

Car has 2" of rear travel. at 1.5" it hits the bump stops and at 2" the cv grinding occurs. The bump stop has to compresss quite a bit to to got from 1.5-2". Pretty happy with how it is right now but I think there is room to go stiffer in the rear.

I used 240 FPS slo motion to see the suspension and drivetrain working.

 

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2 hours ago, Simply Volvo said:

Tuned out some suspension issues the past 2 weekends. Had issues with the larger 960 axles grinding on full suspension compression.

Car has 2" of rear travel. at 1.5" it hits the bump stops and at 2" the cv grinding occurs. The bump stop has to compresss quite a bit to to got from 1.5-2". Pretty happy with how it is right now but I think there is room to go stiffer in the rear.

I used 240 FPS slo motion to see the suspension and drivetrain working.

 

Have not bought the bump stops yet to replace my 50% complete rear bump stops, glad to see you found a different solution for this. With the wagon ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD and even 600lb springs I find a pretty loaded car hits the bump stops with the Ohlins on a pretty stiff setting. I see you're what not 12/18 for the qa1s? So stiff as well. 

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31 minutes ago, apeacock said:

Have not bought the bump stops yet to replace my 50% complete rear bump stops, glad to see you found a different solution for this. With the wagon ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD and even 600lb springs I find a pretty loaded car hits the bump stops with the Ohlins on a pretty stiff setting. I see you're what not 12/18 for the qa1s? So stiff as well. 

I have the Eibach 8" 500lb springs. I tried the QA1s on 12/18. Was a bit too soft. Then I tried 14/18 and it was a bit better.

@B_Dub and BMAC (cant find his username here) on YouTube comments recommended trying some 600lb springs.

My car is full weight albeit not a wagon (so maybe a bit less heavy in the rear) so 600s might be quite the improvement over the 500s.

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I'm running 450lb rear springs and find myself wishing I went 500lb+.

With no one in the back, it rides well but I've effectively ruined it as a wagon lol.

Love the video updates Matt, can't wait to see you doing some longer runs once it warms up and you can get traction.

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On 2/15/2021 at 12:22 PM, Simply Volvo said:

I have the Eibach 8" 500lb springs. I tried the QA1s on 12/18. Was a bit too soft. Then I tried 14/18 and it was a bit better.

@B_Dub and BMAC (cant find his username here) on YouTube comments recommended trying some 600lb springs.

My car is full weight albeit not a wagon (so maybe a bit less heavy in the rear) so 600s might be quite the improvement over the 500s.

I wonder where he got that recommendation  😅 yeah 450s were too soft. 600 is also the 'heaviest' they seem to make in an 8x3

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On 2/18/2021 at 12:17 PM, apeacock said:

I wonder where he got that recommendation  😅 yeah 450s were too soft. 600 is also the 'heaviest' they seem to make in an 8x3

Not sure if you’re referring to me or BMAC, but I got the recommendation to increase the rear spring rate from myself... I wasn’t happy with the 450# springs that were included with the Kaplhenke coilover kit so I bought a set of 650# springs that Taras (5x108heavyweight, RusheR) had from his old wagon build. The 650’s effectively eliminated the squat on acceleration and the general weak-rear suspension from the original 450# springs. 

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On 2/19/2021 at 7:14 PM, B_Dub said:

Not sure if you’re referring to me or BMAC, but I got the recommendation to increase the rear spring rate from myself... I wasn’t happy with the 450# springs that were included with the Kaplhenke coilover kit so I bought a set of 650# springs that Taras (5x108heavyweight, RusheR) had from his old wagon build. The 650’s effectively eliminated the squat on acceleration and the general weak-rear suspension from the original 450# springs. 

oo gotcha, I think I had talked to him about the right weight for the ones in the back. I wish I had a way to test what the official Ohlins ones were rated at when I had the set in my hands. 

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It was 65F out today so I decided to run to the garage real quick and calculate the motion ratio (based off of the recommendation of another friend).

image.png.c25a65252cc055b3245da9a042c1156a.png

About 0.675 MR for the rear.

Im gonna estimate that my spring rear corner weight is about 300KG. Its probably a bit more with the AWD maybe 325KG.

This puts my current 500lb springs around a suspension frequency of 1.8... probably a bit too soft...

image.thumb.png.b9b238ca60f398d77a06a433f47baa8f.png

I found some 700lb/in springs. That would put me around 2.2 frequency.

image.thumb.png.5b5ee59eb07504f94a5ac6b19bc84eb9.png

Right now the adjustable combined compression/rebound on the rear shock is set to 14/18 clicks. If I am thinking correctly I will be able to bring this down a bit with the increased spring rate. If I keep going higher than 14 the rear starts getting a bit bouncy (too much combined compression/rebound) street driving. Could always soften things up but I think going with an increased spring rate and setting the combined compression/rebound closer to 1/2 rather than 2/3 will be better overall on street and still let me street launch on demand without having the change the combined compression/rebound.

I have 700lb/in springs on order... thinking about upgrading to the QA1 TD510 shocks in the rear. Same as the QA1 TS510 I have to but separately adjustable compression & rebound.

Fronts need a overhaul too... trying to see if I can get just the Front V3s from KW. Or I am considering putting new inserts in my TA Technix bodies.

Edited by Simply Volvo
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Another vote for JRZ. 
 

FWIW - You can buy individual coilover   assemblies from BC Racing so you could just buy the front BCs if you wanted something less pricey than JRZ or V3s

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12 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

What about bens jrz rs1 fronts?

 

7 hours ago, andyb5 said:

Another vote for JRZ. 
 

FWIW - You can buy individual coilover   assemblies from BC Racing so you could just buy the front BCs if you wanted something less pricey than JRZ or V3s

I would love to buy those beauties but they are not in the budget at the moment unfortunately.

I'm thinking of going the route Aaron went and putting Koni 8610-1437 (single adjustable) strut inserts into the TA Technix bodies. I already have very nice condition billet camber plates and the ta bodies are in great condition.

Im going to match it with some 9" 550 lb/in springs I think.

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Ah ok - I only commented because you mentioned v3's... bens jrz are actually cheaper than v3's because those sexy camber plates are included! 

I like the idea of having the strut mounts fit to our complex strut towers... yes i know the front strut towers are the most reinforced part of the car... 

matt whats the ultimate goal here, will you be tracking this more?

 

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2 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

Ah ok - I only commented because you mentioned v3's... bens jrz are actually cheaper than v3's because those sexy camber plates are included! 

I like the idea of having the strut mounts fit to our complex strut towers... yes i know the front strut towers are the most reinforced part of the car... 

matt whats the ultimate goal here, will you be tracking this more?

 

The ultimate goal is as best as possible straight line performance. Whether that is 1/4 mile from a dig, 1/2 mile from a dig or 1/3 mile from a 65mph roll.

With AWD or locked 4WD Drive (in my case) my thinking is to still put my front wheels to good use traction wise. I have a very heavy engine and transmission up there so I can take advantage of that normal force if I limit rear weight transfer. In the slo motion videos I was getting about 2" of squat on fairly slippery surfaces. When that rear hooks up more it will compress more. The excessive squat can also cause rear sub frame clearance issues. The locked 4WD is very aggressive it feels like a full blown 600hp RWD launch with the fronts pulling you straight.

Since it is going to be setup for drag racing & occasional street use is my reasoning for not budgeting as much on a new front setup. I just need something with better dampening in the front than the TAs. With the locked 4WD I wont be autocross or circuit racing the car.

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