Simply T-5R, The Build Thread : A New Hope

[Simply Volvo 870]

Hey guys.

Bit more updates on the VC. Its pretty fun on the street when its warmed up if you are just screwing around in 2nd and 3rd gear. Its really just from 1st roll or 1st launch its doesn't work very well. I think the RPMs just rip to redline way too fast and it hits limiter for it to function. I cannot get it to lockup consistently from a dig.

If I do get it to lock up it clunks hard after a second of front wheel spin and is probably sending quite the shock through the drivetrain.

I quite convinced thats why the angle gears pop is because of the huge shock load it puts on it when it does actually lock.

Ive also noticed that on a 3rd gear rip I get a bit of torque steer and then torque goes to the rear and I get a bit of fish tail and that process oscillates. It feels like the quaife when it was FWD, car kinda snakes all over the road. Really don't like it and it doesnt feel safe. The locked 4WD just pulls you dead nuts straight.

With the locked 4WD i can properly preload the entire drivetrain and its very easy to do with how my clutch stop is setup. Then I just slowly slip the clutch and she takes right off.

Ill leave it in there until after my big front suspension upgrade & after its aligned.

7 hours ago, Commander Riker said:

This car is becoming a real monster.  Could you share any more on the VC welding?  Would you do it on a lower HP car?  Or is it only worth it on high HP applications such as this?

These are the two spots that need to be welded. I can't comment on a lower HP car as I've never been in a stock P80 AWD.

All I can say is that scrubbing really isn't that bad (but can be a bit annoying sometimes... everything has trade offs in life). I have been running it locked for about 250 miles now. No extra heat (I have oil temp sensor in my billet AG). No metal in the oil and the gear teeth looked very clean.

You just need to be careful about blasting it around corners as it will definitely understeer horribly. I don't push it hard around corners but it can take a onramp at regular / low throttle 55-60mph no problem.

Edited March 16 by Simply Volvo

[Commander Riker 1,494]

Thanks for posting those pictures.  I'm getting an extra 00 complete rear end in a pile of parts I just picked up from a good friend.  Thinking about doing this mod just to try it out.

[Simply Volvo 870]

Made some big moves on the front end... can't even begin to explain the difference it made. At this point pretty much every part has been replaced with a Genuine OEM Volvo part.

 

[apeacock 319]

All for the better parts, I enjoy the moog sway bar links as they have a wrench hold and I never trust the torx on a salt drive car. Any experience with noise or harshness from the strut bearings? Consider a set as I need to sent away my Ohlins for a leak. 

Edited April 4 by apeacock

[Boxman 103]

23 hours ago, Simply Volvo said:

Made some big moves on the front end... can't even begin to explain the difference it made. At this point pretty much every part has been replaced with a Genuine OEM Volvo part.

 

Do you prefer the OEM rubber control arm bushings over well-lubricated poly inserts? Which one gave the better handling, in your opinion?

[Simply Volvo 870]

Car is driving incredibly well. I will say the overall suspension quality has gone from a 4.5 to a 9.5. The difference is drastic and this JRZ front setup can eat up pot holes & man hole covers like its no ones business. Car is going in for a 4 wheel alignment tomorrow so I quite excited to see how everything feels once the front and rear are properly aligned.

On 4/3/2021 at 8:06 PM, apeacock said:

All for the better parts, I enjoy the moog sway bar links as they have a wrench hold and I never trust the torx on a salt drive car. Any experience with noise or harshness from the strut bearings? Consider a set as I need to sent away my Ohlins for a leak. 

From the factory strut bearings? No. Only run OEM strut bearings on my beater S70 and before replacing them (original 120K) they had a ton of noise and play but have since replaced them.

With BNEs upper perches and LUXE steer no noise or harness so far.

19 hours ago, Boxman said:

Do you prefer the OEM rubber control arm bushings over well-lubricated poly inserts? Which one gave the better handling, in your opinion?

I have only ever used OEM rubber so I cannot answer. The OEM rubber is very good and will last a lifetime if properly installed. Had a ran who ran a poly front suspension setup and ended up going back to OEM.

[apeacock 319]

28 minutes ago, Simply Volvo said:

From the factory strut bearings? No. Only run OEM strut bearings on my beater S70 and before replacing them (original 120K) they had a ton of noise and play but have since replaced them.

With BNEs upper perches and LUXE steer no noise or harness so far.

 

Hmm I was more asking, do they make an increase in noise (metal on metal fitment) or are they contributing to any other NVH. But maybe this answers that.

[Simply Volvo 870]

9 hours ago, apeacock said:

Hmm I was more asking, do they make an increase in noise (metal on metal fitment) or are they contributing to any other NVH. But maybe this answers that.

Drove it some more today. There is a little plastic isolator between the bottom of the spring and the height adjuster. None between the top of the spring and the LUXE steer bearing. Heard a tiny bit of metal on metal "squeaking." Might try spraying a little WD40 up there. The Luxe steer bearing does have a plastic isolator between the bearing and strut mount.

Got the final ride height adjustment done before my 4 wheel alignment tomorrow. 25.5" from ground to fender in front and 26" from ground to fender in rear. So happy I raised the car up. Now the control arms and axles are flat with the car on the ground. Suspension geometry must have been so messed up before. Car is driving and handling great now. I absolutely love the 1/2"-3/4" of rake. Its very suttle but it also has a purpose to help the car level out on launch instead of squatting too much. I want those front wheels working just as hard as the back.

400lb/in in the front and 700lb/in in the rear (due to the 0.675 motion ratio). It feels perfectly sprung. Now I need to play with the dampening. Could use some more in the front. Front is fully soft on compression/rebound. Rear is about 10/18 clicks combined compression/rebound.

Should have plenty of room for some 26" slicks if I ever get to that point.

Edited April 6 by Simply Volvo

[Commander Riker 1,494]

You have built, in my opinion, the most rad version of a T5R ever.

Best part is, it looks so unassuming.