andyb5

Andy's 2000 V70 R

Recommended Posts

Crap, sorry guys.  Thought I replied to everyone a while ago, but it appears I didn't.   Oops.....

On 6/21/2017 at 4:16 AM, DDM said:

 Beautiful Venetian Andy!  I look forward to seeing this project unfold...

Dan

Thanks Dan, appreciate the kind words!

On 6/21/2017 at 10:11 AM, Chilled man said:

Drive right past my house and dont say hi .... what ever... side note I will be in Albany on Tuesday next week . 

Justin, don't you live near Carlise?  I wasn't in that part of PA on my way back from Denver, but I was at Carlisle later that week.  I realize I'm a day late and a dollar short here, but if you're ever back up here let me know and we can get together!

On 6/21/2017 at 11:22 PM, Dan McBoost said:

Mine too, heh. 

Dan, where in NY do you live?

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PROGRESS we want progress and pictarz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was just in Albany / Rochester last week LOL so you were down here and I was up there! 

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Time for updates :smile: 

So I basically didn't work on it at all this summer.  I pretty much just drove it from point A to B, and enjoyed the cushy stock suspension and nice, cold AC.  Even the 5 speed auto isn't horrible for a daily driver, but certainly not the best option for sporty driving.

Snagged a good shot parked outside a credit union I designed last summer:

36972010181_402eca5dc3_b.jpg89CC8034-6476-415F-BE8D-026D47C17F85_zpszuufdwtg by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Then as Swedish Car Day approached, I started to get a few things done.  I started by mildly rolling the rear fenders:

37113502015_bd8fee7c88.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

The factory rear fender lips are double layer metal and are a pain to roll.  Before:
36925048286_cc78322608.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr
and after:
37113492385_4a8429c141.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

I was pleasantly surprised by how clean the suspension/drivetrain appear to be.  Everything is in much better condition than the rear end of my 99 R
36300881923_314f39a1fe.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

I pulled the front fenders about 1/2" and rolled them as well.  Fronts are much easier to roll/pull than the rear.  Before:
36925049556_dfd7f34647.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

36278154584_cd02282e4f.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

After:
36925044856_c6c5f5bf9b.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

37113500875_eb3b44e48b.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

In the process of rolling the fenders, I removed all the factory plastic mudflaps and trimmed/modified all the fender liners to fit with the newly rolled fender lips.  Don't really have pictures of that at the moment, but it's kind of a trial-and-error process to trim the fender liners and get them lined back up on the rolled fender lips.

Bit of a full house before SCD at our shop - 7 different Volvos across a range of models.

36943366272_e95fba2d58_z.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Installed my front CX Racing coilovers.  They still look pretty good after ~35,000 miles on the car.  Seriously, for a sub-$700 pair of coilovers they're greatly exceeding my expectations and the coating of Boeshield T9 is continuing to do a great job keeping corrosion away.  The handling improvement is pretty noticeable - the reduction in dive and body roll is nice.  The ride quality (5kg/mm springs) are pretty soft, so there's still plenty of compliance and travel to soak up bumps.

36972086661_8e1f8b35a9_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

I also installed my adapters, and put the STi BBS wheels and Ventus V12s on before the trip.  As a quick refresher, the STi BBS are 17x8, forged and weight 18 lbs.  The wheels' native offset is +53, and 19mm adapters get the offset to +34.  

Lastly, I gave it a quick wash and we all drove out to Larz Anderson.  

37113497305_52aaccc631_b.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

At this point, I was fairly happy with where the car was, and was able to work on getting my 99 R taken apart and sent to the junkyard.  However, a mere 6 days after I got rid of my 99 R disaster struck.  I was on my way home to my apartment when another driver pulled out from a stop sign and hit the side of my wagon.  Thankfully, I was unharmed, but my wagon was definitely not ok.  It needs a new rear quarter panel, driver's side rear door, and there was some damage to the rear drivers side wheel as well.  The good  news is that the door still opened and closed normally, the glass wasn't damaged, and the suspension was untouched, so it still ran/drive normally.

26322704219_8feedb745b_b.jpgIMG_2969 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

37390560134_112c760fc3_b.jpgIMG_2976 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

This is the intersection where I got hit:  The other vehicle was stopped at the sign pictured here, and I was driving from right to left across the photo. 

37393265774_fb2199efc6_b.jpgIMG_2972 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Both streets are 1 way, and the other driver was deemed at fault by the police, and their insurance accepted 100% liability.  The repair estimate came out to ~$5,400.  That meant the car was a total loss, but I am working on getting it fixed anyways.

I ended up getting a quarter panel, door, and side skirt from Eric's ( @Leco510) 98 R.

Made some sparks
38174275326_38c3b6346e_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

and after a while, had myself a quarter panel

38197547122_0189e5d251_b.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

26453419399_b516daa279_b.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

38174277236_8e20d0482a_b.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

It's a pain in the ass, but a rear quarter panel does actually fit in the back of one of these wagons.

37518592514_48845f60db_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

That's currently where things stand.  I've been avoiding working on modding/repairing things while dealing with insurance and figuring out the whole repair process.   

 

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dang man!?  Sorry to hear about your mishap.  Hope your luck gets better from here on out!  Glad to see you're not going to let it slow you down though..

Edited by gdog

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thumbs up for your determination!

BTW, in Europe when the repair costs exceeds the car's market value, you receive only this market value minus the cost of remaining car. An average P80 here is estimated at around 2500 USD by the insurance companies. In your case the remaining car would be around 500 USD, so the outcome of 2K $ or even less would be a fortune. 

And what do you guys are using as inner mudguards after that fender rollup? The OEM plastic mudflap holds on that metal lip. After one rolls this lip upside, the mudguard drops out..

Edited by Andzey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn dude.  So sorry to hear it was hit.  Any more and you're going to need to start adding armor to your car.

Are you going to repaint the whole thing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sucks you took a hit on the Venetian but it looks like you have a plan to get it back in shape. Hopefully, that insurance money will help pay for some go fast parts  :cool:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/6/2017 at 11:16 PM, gdog said:

Dang man!?  Sorry to hear about your mishap.  Hope your luck gets better from here on out!  Glad to see you're not going to let it slow you down though..

Thanks gdog!

On 11/7/2017 at 5:42 AM, Andzey said:

Thumbs up for your determination!

BTW, in Europe when the repair costs exceeds the car's market value, you receive only this market value minus the cost of remaining car. An average P80 here is estimated at around 2500 USD by the insurance companies. In your case the remaining car would be around 500 USD, so the outcome of 2K $ or even less would be a fortune. 

And what do you guys are using as inner mudguards after that fender rollup? The OEM plastic mudflap holds on that metal lip. After one rolls this lip upside, the mudguard drops out..

Yeah that's the same process here.  My car was valued at ~$3,500, and after deducting a scrap value of ~$100, I got a check for around $3,400.  I need to review it the work with the shop I'm taking it to, but fingers crossed it'll be enough to get my car fixed.

I trimmed the fender liners to fit up onto the folded lip.  It's not a perfect solution, as they're hard to remove for maintenance, but for now it's functional.  I'll try to share some photos of what I did next time I'm working on the car.

On 11/7/2017 at 8:10 AM, tuner4life said:

Holy crap! That's going to be quite the repair! Good luck!

Thanks!

On 11/7/2017 at 9:41 AM, Commander Riker said:

Damn dude.  So sorry to hear it was hit.  Any more and you're going to need to start adding armor to your car.

Are you going to repaint the whole thing?

I'm going to see about getting some other paint work done while I'm in there, but I don't think I'll be repainting the whole car.

On 11/8/2017 at 8:49 AM, Ihatespeedbumps said:

Sucks you took a hit on the Venetian but it looks like you have a plan to get it back in shape. Hopefully, that insurance money will help pay for some go fast parts  :cool:

Thanks, hopefully I can get it fixed.  Any money left over from the insurance will be spent on paint/body work, it just makes sense to do as much of that as I can while it's already at the paint shop.

10 hours ago, apeacock said:

Thought of taking a little less than the repair check (keeping it not a total loss) and finding another one while you drive this? 

Nope.  The total loss doesn't really affect my ownership of the car.  While there are some cosmetics that need to be addressed, this car is so clean underneath due to it having never seen road salt before that I really don't want to move onto another one.

 

Put the Satellites and studded Altimax Arctics back on for winter

26753123709_74fd693617_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Here's where you can really see the front fenders have been pulled - the front wheels sit about 2 inches inside of the fender

24656437438_eb0482458b_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Andy, looks like you had a lot of patience rolling those front fenders. Both of my front fenders are messed up so I pulled them out as far as I can but I cracked the paint in a few spots

 

Think you can fit some more rubber in there with different offset wheels and spacers?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Kevin!  It actually took me a few hours split over two days to get everything done, including modifying the fender liners to fit and everything.  It's a tedious process, but was worth it to ensure everything came out well.

I'm pretty confident that with the right wheels I could fit more rubber.  At this point, I want to focus on optimizing the front suspension geometry (scrub radius, roll center, etc) to use the grip I have better before I go to more rubber, but a future setup more rubber is definitely something I've been thinking about.  Here's something along the lines of what I had in mind: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?232263-(4)17x9-quot-Ferrari-348-by-Speedline-235-40-Nitto-NT05.  

Still working on getting the bodywork sorted out, I'll post updates on that as things progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple weekends ago, I swapped the B5234T8, M66, and all associated parts from my old 99 R into this wagon.  I started the work on Friday 1/19 and finished up on Wednesday, 1/24.

Pulled the front subframe assembly from my 99 R into the shop and got my wagon ready for the swap:
39058355595_f5662a5564_b.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Engine bay before.  It was a mess, everything is covered in oil and PS fluid from a swollen, leaky reservoir
39924507192_cc3ce4f491_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

The engine is ready to come out:
39956419801_4d70cf7aa1_z.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Lift the car up and off the front subframe, then roll the subframe assembly out of the way:
26083687388_207c09358c_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

"Old" and "new":
25085244097_ff1d3fc8d3_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Clutch master installed:
39924496632_d08eb4b8de_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Ran the hardline from the clutch master to the slave cylinder.  I notched the airbox bracket to allow the line to fit without passing through the bracket.  The OEM routing through the bracket makes it nearly impossible to remove the bracket without disconnecting the clutch line, which is a pain in the ass.
28176818499_59b6612153_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Disassemble the ECU box and pull apart the connectors to modify the CANBUS wiring
39058352125_07cdc9df5d_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Depinned, cut, and crimped the TCM wires together.  After crimping, I used some heat shrink to seal the joint up and ensure everything stays protected from the elements.
39956417071_7969dcc428_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

You should never use a solder joint on a car; a proper crimp joint is a much more reliable and durable connection.  A solder joint can potentially crack due to the vibrations created by the engine and drivetrain.  Of course, I only learned this after I soldered these wires on my old wagon :monkey:  
28176813149_a68e750f25_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

B5234T8/M66 bolted back up and in the engine bay
25085236827_319b31391e_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Got some help from my girlfriend replacing the spark plugs and installing the newer coil packs from the B5244T that came out of the car.39246250454_318655bc67_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

I lost the better part of two nights of work trying to figure out why my heater core connection was leaking.  After many trials and tribulations, it turns out there was a small crack in the connection for the lower hose.  I temporarily bypassed the heater core until I could order and install a new firewall coupling.
39924495522_c92210fb5c_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

How it sat for the first attempt at starting.  I was a little nervous because the engine had been sitting since September.  I put a couple drops of oil in each of the cylinders, cranked it over by hand a few times, and thankfully it fired right up on the first try!  
39058345125_7ddbec908b_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

Center console is all buttoned up:
39088871065_0c8c4ed365_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

And a couple glamour shots of the finished engine bay:
39276562294_2c4d1e3221_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

39955541922_f3154a387c_c.jpgUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr

I still need to get a tune from Steveo, but I'm so happy to have a M66 in my life again!  I'll update this post a little later with a full list of all the work I did during this project but I wanted to get all my photos uploaded and shared with you guys!

Here's a list of the setup I installed for this project.  Parts in bold are new to this car, other parts were previously installed on my 99 R.

  • B5234T8 from my former 99 R with ~223,000 miles.
    • Factory 18T w/ angle flange
      • Forge CBV
      • Snabb intake pipe w/ Spectre cone filter (I really should buy a higher quality filter...)
    • 99 R downpipe w/ Bosch (OES) O2 sensors
    • Rebuilt cylinder head
      • BTCC style dual oil filler necks w/ IPD Viton filler cap seals
      • OEM valve stem seals
      • Bosch (OES) coil packs and OEM spark plugs
      • "R" manifold + OEM MLS gasket from P1
    • Gates Racing timing belt
    • Aisin (OES) water pump
    • Xemodex ETM
    • New OEM RMS
    • Powerflex polyurethane upper engine and firewall mounts
  • M66C (from 05 S40 T5 AWD) w/ 99 R angle gear
    • OEM single mass flywheel, Sachs SD 693 clutch, OEM 850 R pressure plate
    • P80 clutch master cylinder, new P80 clutch master to slave cylinder line, new P1 FTE (OE) slave cylinder
    • P1 shifter and cables, R Design aluminum shift knob
    • PDV Motorsports upgraded collar gear
    • Colorado Driveshaft remanufactured 99 R driveshaft
  • New OEM coolant reservoir/cap/hoses, new OEM water pipe hoses 
  • Rack Doctor remanufactured steering rack w/ inner tie rods and new OEM outer tie rods.
  • New OEM 05+ power steering reservoir, new OEM 05+ suction hose, new OEM return hose, new OEM steering column u-joint.
  • OEM sway bar with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and custom adjustable endlinks

I spent a couple hours cleaning and degreasing the engine bay.  I also installed a VW 99 adjustable wiper relay; which is one of my favorite convenience modifications for these cars.

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By cryptophilosopher
      98 99 00 01 02 03 04 VOLVO S70 S40 S80 V40 KEYLESS ENTRY KEY FOB OEM

      https://www.amazon.com/VOLVO-S70-S40-KEYLESS-ENTRY/dp/B01M28NQXR/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
    • By apeacock
      1999 V70 R - Needed a VS build thread.

      Wagon is a Canadian, originally tested by a rental car company and thankfully for me was rejected. Purchased in 2012 I'm the third owner. Vehicle thad a full service history that would put other anal Volvo owners to shame.

      Mods list run down

      Suspension/Brakes:
      Ohlins Road holding kit Front - Rebuilt by PSI, Performance Shock Inc in California.
      Ohlins Road holding kit Rear 
      TME Awd Springs -
      IPD Front 25mm Sway bar
      IPD Rear Bar
      IPD Strut tower brace
      Solid-ish Top engine mount
      Poly Firewall Mount.
      Ceika 330mm large 6pot Front set  -Street Grey Pads
      Porsche 330mm 4pot rear brakes  - Textar Porsche 996 Pads
      Engine/Exhaust:
      Stev0 Tune running 20-24
      BW EFR 7064 Turbo Smart CBV and Dual port wastegate
      Snabb Reverse intercooler piping kit
      Custom Inlet tube mated to 3.5" maf housing
      VR exhaust manifold - Milled Flat to fit T3 Turbo
      Custom DP from Aaron
      Magnaflow rear mufflers
      Do88 intercooler -
      Do88 Rad

      Wheels:
      Borbet LV5 with Bridgestone Potenzas.

      Many thanks to Bmac,Steve, Hussein, and anyone else for answering the endless questions.
       
      Day 01:
      Car came with its drive shaft pre-removed but included. 12 total wheels and tires, a brand new set of R mats in the volvo box, and a stack of service receipts totaling 26,000 CAD.

      Purchased at 121,000 miles currently 152k on everything.




      March 2014 - Acquired many nice parts through the winter. Met Bmac and got everything installed and then had Steve tune it the same evening. Long day but everything has held together like new since then.
       
      Snabb kit was a oh yeah! to install, lower pipe need to sit just right to make it all work.

       
       
      18" of space was nice but we almost needed more.

      Clamshell was not surprisingly rusted closed.

      ugly ugly welds but it went in perfectly. Did require cutting the old downpipe to clear the angle gear.



      Bens BIG turbo


      Manifold and turbo and exhaust removed.


      Nice new nuts and reused the washers.


      Huge difference in design.


      Sway bars are such a nice improvement on this car
      Reused a front bar from VS, rear can be had new without buying the set (just ask)


      Practice Safe Turboing



      May '14

      Tint and Clear Bra - No surprise it doesn't show up in pictures. The Tint Shop of Rochester NY did a great job. Happy to protect the newly painted front end. (barely visible below)

      'Winning' Only two volvos that weekend so I can't be too happy.




      Summer 2014
      Fitting some poly bushings to rattle my fillings out.


      Sticker from the EST customer bbq day


      Nice little paint job under the hood


       
      Nothing Special but it does the job

       
       
      March 2015
      Prep the Front shocks for service
      Found a guide form what what i can't believe is 10 years ago. Thankfully the pictures are still up http://v70r.com/forums/topic/1667-ohlins-strutspring-install/
      Had to get a offset box wrench but it was really the only tool for the job.





      Rear set still brand new in box. Really excited to get this all in and be on the road

       
       
      Not sure if VS works this way but Saving this space for suspension and brakes when they go on.
       
    • By WarmCanadianWinters
      SO
      Just made an account, hello all
      Tryna do some work on my '98 V70R, the timing belt is from 2006 I think, rear brakes are sitting at 10% (So sayeth the local mechanic).
      Gonna pick up the Power Stop Z23 Performance D/S Rotor and pad kit. Couldn't find any note in the service records of the rear calipers ever being replace, (and the first guy who had this car put nearly 18 grand into it) does it need to be done? 
      Also is this timing belt a problem? From what I've read, if it breaks, its a bad time :(
       
      Thanks all in advance. Pretty green to mechanic-ing
      Oh shitters, I posted it twice. Off to a bad start
    • By WarmCanadianWinters
      SO
      Just made an account, hello all
      Tryna do some work on my '98 V70R, the timing belt is from 2006 I think, rear brakes are sitting at 10% (So sayeth the local mechanic).
      Gonna pick up the Power Stop Z23 Performance D/S Rotor and pad kit. Couldn't find any note in the service records of the rear calipers ever being replace, (and the first guy who had this car put nearly 18 grand into it) does it need to be done? 
      Also is this timing belt a problem? From what I've read, if it breaks, its a bad time :(
       
      Thanks all in advance. Pretty green to mechanic-ing
    • By JA VOLVO
      I am sure it is on here somewhere, but I have not been able to find it. Can a 98 cluster be swapped to a 99-00? I have found going the other way and the answer was no for the whole cluster.
      Can the guts be pulled and moved to the replacement cluster so it maintains the mileage and such since the faces are the same?