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andyb5

Andy's 2000 V70 R

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On 10/26/2019 at 12:41 PM, apeacock said:

Thankfully the cars are setup with diagonal circuits so you do still get stopping power when a line is broken. 

Good point, and one I hadn’t thought of. Although I thought these cars actually have 3 circuits - the fronts are on their own independent circuits and the rears are on 1 combined circuit. 

New rear pads/rotors got installed this weekend.  I went with Centric rotors and Bosch semi-metallic pads.  I also replaced both parking brake cables and installed new parking brake shoes.  Those will require some adjustment to be properly working, but I'm just happy the old cables are gone. The sheath had cracked in a couple spots on each cable, and consequently the cables were bound up and causing the shoes to drag on the drum.

48970781641_d5a7515593_c.jpg

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Could you please post the part numbers of those ceramic pads, otherwise it seems like there are not many options for replacement rather then oem

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8 hours ago, Andzey said:

Could you please post the part numbers of those ceramic pads, otherwise it seems like there are not many options for replacement rather then oem

Yup. The funny part is that when I looked up the Bosch part number, it turns out that they’re not ceramic, they’re semi-metallic and FCP’s site is wrong. I adjusted my post to reflect this. 
 

The pads I used are Volvo part #30648382, Bosch part #BP-795. The generic pad shape is D795, which can be cross referenced with any manufacturers catalog to check availability. Brembo, Jurid, Stoptech, and others all offer pads for this caliper

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Can you tell what I need for a B5234t8 to M66 swap? I need a set of pedals I know but is it more or likely bolt on? My aw50-42    Needs a rebuild but it hard to find 1999 replacements. 

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If by “bolt-on” you mean, does the transmission bolt up? Yes, it does. The mechanical side of it is pretty simple for a 99 R - the M66 transmission, angle gear, axles, and driveshaft all bolt right up. You’ll need a custom bracket to use the stock 99 R transmission mount.

However, the harder part to handle will be getting a tune to fully convert the ECU to manual by removing the 4,000 RPM limiter and fixing the throttle mapping. 

Where are you located? 

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I've mostly just been driving this everyday because I've been too busy to bite off any major projects.  I guess I should get this thread caught up since my last "update" was about 11 months ago...

Back in December, I was driving from my parent's house in RI to my place in Troy NY (3 hours and ~190 miles) and hit a pothole at about 60 mph.  It blew a hole at 2 separate points in the sidewall - I'm actually shocked it didn't bend/crank the rim. The tire went flat almost instantly, but luckily I was able to pull over without anything else getting damaged. 

50088416708_2b8f8606b6_h.jpg

Fortunately, I had my new Milwaukee M12 Stubby impact with me, so it made getting the flat tire/wheel & 5x108 to 5x114 adapter removed, and spare tire installed a breeze.  It was dark, cold, and I was on the shoulder of a highway, so I was appreciate of the time savings the impact offered vs. doing it all by hand.  Getting the adapter bolts out of the hub by hand was not a fun scenario in that situation.  Fortunately, the M12 had enough torque to spin the bolts out effortlessly.

50088416453_973e638d44_h.jpg

I was only about 40 minutes/35 miles into the drive, so it was a long trip home with 50 mph max speed of the donut spare on the car.  Once I made it home (4.5 hours later, FML) my next step was to get a replacement tire and avoid needing to drive with the spare any longer so I bought a lightly used set of snows from a buddy and rocked the "peg leg" look until I was able to get them moved over onto my wheels.

50088989751_88e68fb1b6_h.jpg

Otherwise, aside from a couple big storms, the rest of the winter was uneventful.  Here's when we racked up ~2 feet of snow overnight in one storm.

50088416543_40207ff8a1_h.jpg

Sometime this winter, I was about to roll over 222,222 miles and took the opportunity to have a little fun with the trip odometer

50088990561_db09c76971_h.jpg

Made a run to scrap some old engine parts that had been hanging around the shed for too long:

50088990291_0426d0effc_h.jpg

 

Spring rolled around and the COVD-19 shutdown happened, so I spent about 6 weeks working from home.  During that time, I was able to get a bunch of smaller fixes/upgrades crossed off my "to-do" list.

 

Since I didn't need to drive anywhere, I pulled my injectors and sent them off to be cleaned/flow tested.  They're originally from my 99 R and had about 250,000 miles.  It seemed like a good point to perform a little bit of preventative maintenance so I didn't have to worry about them failing down the road.  Boy, did that come back to bite me in the ass.  I'll explain a little later...

50088990276_529e02a8ee_h.jpg

Anyways, got the injectors back in about a week and half after mailing them out.  The flow test results after cleaning showed a couple percent improvement at most, but they were basically in great shape to start and didn't have any issues.  As a part of the service, they were ultrasonically cleaned, and the filter baskets, o-rings, and pintle caps all got replaced.  Re-install was predictably easy - I took the opportunity to switch to the newer P2 style fuel rail clip and o-ring assembly:  

[50088990706_3679f2d3ad_h.jpg

 

I've had a pair of Powerflex lower transmission mount bushings that I needed to install for a while.  Upon removal, the stock mount was pretty gnarly looking, and the rubber bushings were totally worn out, so I'm glad to get the new bushings installed

50088990146_629ab8c966_h.jpg

Without access to a shop press, and no desire to burn the bushings out and deal with the mess/odors that accompany that technique, I had to get a little creative with bushing removal.  In case anyone is wondering, the pipe clamp worked extremely well and was easier to use than the C-clamp.

50089229027_5ba76f8c7f_h.jpg  50088989966_eda2323191_h.jpg

Once the rubber center of each bushing had been pushed out, the outer plastic sleeves were easily removed with a large screwdriver, and cleaned up with a Dremel sanding drum:

50088989736_948edb1237_h.jpg  50089229847_c16f082198_h.jpg

Knock the rusty surface down to clean metal again with a 60 grit roloc wheel in the die grinder

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Apply a couple coats of paint to keep everything protected and looking good, install the new bushings, and the finished product looks much nicer than when I started:

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The result was a tangible reduction in engine/transmission movement when shifting, especially at full throttle or under heavy load.  I didn't notice any additional vibration at idle beyond what is caused by the poly upper engine/firewall bushings.

 

I had an intermittent leak and excess wind noise coming from the top right corner of the windshield.  Removal of the a-pillar trim and exterior drip guard trim lead to the discovery of a ~1" long by ~1/8" deep gap in the sealant under the windshield.  It appears that when the windshield was replaced at some point prior to my ownership, there was insufficient sealant applied before the glass was set and the result was this small gap.  

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I applied some black silicone to the gap from both the exterior and interior to make sure there was a good seal

50088415743_2e13f73493_h.jpg  50088416548_cd713cc034_h.jpg

That fixed the wind noise and no water has come in since I applied the new silicone.  I'll keep an eye on it as it ages, but hopefully that puts that issue to rest.

 

When I had all the body work done a couple years ago, the drivers side skirt was replaced to fix some damage the PO caused near the front wheel well.  I removed the R door sills prior to the car going to the body shop and hadn't reinstalled them yet.

Scrape all the old tape off using a hair dryer and bone tool.  Not fun, but not as bad as I expected.  It took about 10 minutes per door sill to remove the old adhesive.

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A quick pass with some polish to clean them up, and it was time to reinstall with 3M high-strength double-sided foam tape.

50089229832_377625f2d3_h.jpg

 

I'd been running one of the $30 eBay heater cores for a few years, but it started leaking so I replaced it with a Behr from FCP.  It was leaking at 2 points - along the junction with the hardlines from the firewall, and at one of the endtanks:

50089229552_0de6ced839_h.jpg  50089229157_ada5b5c421_h.jpg  

The Behr also had the same "improved" endtank/core junction design as the eBay core.  There were a few significant construction differences between the Behr and eBay heater cores that are indicative of overall quality and why there's such a cost difference between the 2 products.  I'll start a separate thread for those pictures, but it was pretty obvious why the heat output from the eBay core always seemed sub-par compared to the OEM core.

The drivers side carpet foam was soaked, so it sat outside of the car for a few days to dry out.  It's not perfect, but it's far less saturated than it was previously so I'm happy.

50088990876_d2c3f6fe57_h.jpg

 

I will edit this post to include how I fixed a slow coolant leak at the thermostat housing and PCV hose, made my own replacement battery cables, installed silicone vac lines, and my fuel injector issue....
I'll also probably reduce the size of some of those images, that's a bit annoying...

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Did that same mount recently as well. Should have done it to start 4 years ago with the manual swap. Downshifts are much much smoother. 

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I'm curious about the height of the transmission mount.  Would highly suggest you move that from your 99... as I think the 00 uses a much shorter one, which didn't work with my existing Hussein bracket of awesome.

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Much cleanup work.

Nice mileage pic!

I also enjoy the Milwaukee M12 equipment - I got one of those stubby impacts a couple years back - really glad I did!

 

 

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