Andy's 2000 V70 R


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Here's the story behind my new-to-me 2000 V70 R. Its gonna be a long post, and picture heavy too! This thread will serve as a continuation of sorts of my 1999 V70 R build, which can be read here:

I took advantage of some free time and the nice weather this past weekend to get my big front brake kit installed, and did a little bit of “while I’m in there” work too: I started the project by

It has been buffed and ceramic coated 😊 I’m thrilled with how the fresh paint and ceramic coating all turned out!  I’ll take some better (non-iPhone) pictures but heres a quick preview.   

Posted Images

On 10/26/2019 at 12:41 PM, apeacock said:

Thankfully the cars are setup with diagonal circuits so you do still get stopping power when a line is broken. 

Good point, and one I hadn’t thought of. Although I thought these cars actually have 3 circuits - the fronts are on their own independent circuits and the rears are on 1 combined circuit. 

New rear pads/rotors got installed this weekend.  I went with Centric rotors and Bosch semi-metallic pads.  I also replaced both parking brake cables and installed new parking brake shoes.  Those will require some adjustment to be properly working, but I'm just happy the old cables are gone. The sheath had cracked in a couple spots on each cable, and consequently the cables were bound up and causing the shoes to drag on the drum.

48970781641_d5a7515593_c.jpg

  • Upvote 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Andzey said:

Could you please post the part numbers of those ceramic pads, otherwise it seems like there are not many options for replacement rather then oem

Yup. The funny part is that when I looked up the Bosch part number, it turns out that they’re not ceramic, they’re semi-metallic and FCP’s site is wrong. I adjusted my post to reflect this. 
 

The pads I used are Volvo part #30648382, Bosch part #BP-795. The generic pad shape is D795, which can be cross referenced with any manufacturers catalog to check availability. Brembo, Jurid, Stoptech, and others all offer pads for this caliper

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 6 months later...

If by “bolt-on” you mean, does the transmission bolt up? Yes, it does. The mechanical side of it is pretty simple for a 99 R - the M66 transmission, angle gear, axles, and driveshaft all bolt right up. You’ll need a custom bracket to use the stock 99 R transmission mount.

However, the harder part to handle will be getting a tune to fully convert the ECU to manual by removing the 4,000 RPM limiter and fixing the throttle mapping. 

Where are you located? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

I've mostly just been driving this everyday because I've been too busy to bite off any major projects.  I guess I should get this thread caught up since my last "update" was about 11 months ago...

Back in December, I was driving from my parent's house in RI to my place in Troy NY (3 hours and ~190 miles) and hit a pothole at about 60 mph.  It blew a hole at 2 separate points in the sidewall - I'm actually shocked it didn't bend/crank the rim. The tire went flat almost instantly, but luckily I was able to pull over without anything else getting damaged. 

50088416708_2b8f8606b6_h.jpg

Fortunately, I had my new Milwaukee M12 Stubby impact with me, so it made getting the flat tire/wheel & 5x108 to 5x114 adapter removed, and spare tire installed a breeze.  It was dark, cold, and I was on the shoulder of a highway, so I was appreciate of the time savings the impact offered vs. doing it all by hand.  Getting the adapter bolts out of the hub by hand was not a fun scenario in that situation.  Fortunately, the M12 had enough torque to spin the bolts out effortlessly.

50088416453_973e638d44_h.jpg

I was only about 40 minutes/35 miles into the drive, so it was a long trip home with 50 mph max speed of the donut spare on the car.  Once I made it home (4.5 hours later, FML) my next step was to get a replacement tire and avoid needing to drive with the spare any longer so I bought a lightly used set of snows from a buddy and rocked the "peg leg" look until I was able to get them moved over onto my wheels.

50088989751_88e68fb1b6_h.jpg

Otherwise, aside from a couple big storms, the rest of the winter was uneventful.  Here's when we racked up ~2 feet of snow overnight in one storm.

50088416543_40207ff8a1_h.jpg

Sometime this winter, I was about to roll over 222,222 miles and took the opportunity to have a little fun with the trip odometer

50088990561_db09c76971_h.jpg

Made a run to scrap some old engine parts that had been hanging around the shed for too long:

50088990291_0426d0effc_h.jpg

 

Spring rolled around and the COVD-19 shutdown happened, so I spent about 6 weeks working from home.  During that time, I was able to get a bunch of smaller fixes/upgrades crossed off my "to-do" list.

 

Since I didn't need to drive anywhere, I pulled my injectors and sent them off to be cleaned/flow tested.  They're originally from my 99 R and had about 250,000 miles.  It seemed like a good point to perform a little bit of preventative maintenance so I didn't have to worry about them failing down the road.  Boy, did that come back to bite me in the ass.  I'll explain a little later...

50088990276_529e02a8ee_h.jpg

Anyways, got the injectors back in about a week and half after mailing them out.  The flow test results after cleaning showed a couple percent improvement at most, but they were basically in great shape to start and didn't have any issues.  As a part of the service, they were ultrasonically cleaned, and the filter baskets, o-rings, and pintle caps all got replaced.  Re-install was predictably easy - I took the opportunity to switch to the newer P2 style fuel rail clip and o-ring assembly:  

[50088990706_3679f2d3ad_h.jpg

 

I've had a pair of Powerflex lower transmission mount bushings that I needed to install for a while.  Upon removal, the stock mount was pretty gnarly looking, and the rubber bushings were totally worn out, so I'm glad to get the new bushings installed

50088990146_629ab8c966_h.jpg

Without access to a shop press, and no desire to burn the bushings out and deal with the mess/odors that accompany that technique, I had to get a little creative with bushing removal.  In case anyone is wondering, the pipe clamp worked extremely well and was easier to use than the C-clamp.

50089229027_5ba76f8c7f_h.jpg  50088989966_eda2323191_h.jpg

Once the rubber center of each bushing had been pushed out, the outer plastic sleeves were easily removed with a large screwdriver, and cleaned up with a Dremel sanding drum:

50088989736_948edb1237_h.jpg  50089229847_c16f082198_h.jpg

Knock the rusty surface down to clean metal again with a 60 grit roloc wheel in the die grinder

50088416408_b1226ad087_h.jpg

Apply a couple coats of paint to keep everything protected and looking good, install the new bushings, and the finished product looks much nicer than when I started:

50088415738_39a8597f59_h.jpg

The result was a tangible reduction in engine/transmission movement when shifting, especially at full throttle or under heavy load.  I didn't notice any additional vibration at idle beyond what is caused by the poly upper engine/firewall bushings.

 

I had an intermittent leak and excess wind noise coming from the top right corner of the windshield.  Removal of the a-pillar trim and exterior drip guard trim lead to the discovery of a ~1" long by ~1/8" deep gap in the sealant under the windshield.  It appears that when the windshield was replaced at some point prior to my ownership, there was insufficient sealant applied before the glass was set and the result was this small gap.  

50088415748_34ea732034_h.jpg

I applied some black silicone to the gap from both the exterior and interior to make sure there was a good seal

50088415743_2e13f73493_h.jpg  50088416548_cd713cc034_h.jpg

That fixed the wind noise and no water has come in since I applied the new silicone.  I'll keep an eye on it as it ages, but hopefully that puts that issue to rest.

 

When I had all the body work done a couple years ago, the drivers side skirt was replaced to fix some damage the PO caused near the front wheel well.  I removed the R door sills prior to the car going to the body shop and hadn't reinstalled them yet.

Scrape all the old tape off using a hair dryer and bone tool.  Not fun, but not as bad as I expected.  It took about 10 minutes per door sill to remove the old adhesive.

50088416473_8d73ab1921_h.jpg

A quick pass with some polish to clean them up, and it was time to reinstall with 3M high-strength double-sided foam tape.

50089229832_377625f2d3_h.jpg

 

I'd been running one of the $30 eBay heater cores for a few years, but it started leaking so I replaced it with a Behr from FCP.  It was leaking at 2 points - along the junction with the hardlines from the firewall, and at one of the endtanks:

50089229552_0de6ced839_h.jpg  50089229157_ada5b5c421_h.jpg  

The Behr also had the same "improved" endtank/core junction design as the eBay core.  There were a few significant construction differences between the Behr and eBay heater cores that are indicative of overall quality and why there's such a cost difference between the 2 products.  I'll start a separate thread for those pictures, but it was pretty obvious why the heat output from the eBay core always seemed sub-par compared to the OEM core.

The drivers side carpet foam was soaked, so it sat outside of the car for a few days to dry out.  It's not perfect, but it's far less saturated than it was previously so I'm happy.

50088990876_d2c3f6fe57_h.jpg

 

I will follow up with another post to show how I fixed a slow coolant leak at the thermostat housing and PCV hose, made my own replacement battery cables, installed silicone vac lines, and my fuel injector issue....
I'll also probably reduce the size of some of the images in this post, that's a bit annoying...

  • Upvote 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/16/2020 at 6:12 PM, tighe said:

Looking good! Someone should really go through my V70 and tackle all of these little lurking projects! 

 

I'm too busy with this nonsense!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-to-me-lx570-general-thread.1216897/

I can't blame you for getting side-tracked by the new truck - that LX570 looks really cool, those are super nice.  My buddy picked up a J200 Land Cruiser (I forget which year) a little ways back and it's a really impressive vehicle.  

On 9/17/2020 at 4:40 PM, apeacock said:

Did that same mount recently as well. Should have done it to start 4 years ago with the manual swap. Downshifts are much much smoother. 

Yeah, I was really surprised by how much it helped out.

On 9/18/2020 at 2:57 PM, cruizea5 said:

I'm curious about the height of the transmission mount.  Would highly suggest you move that from your 99... as I think the 00 uses a much shorter one, which didn't work with my existing Hussein bracket of awesome.

Yeah, I'm running the 99 transmission mount on with the bracket Hussein made.

On 9/22/2020 at 10:30 PM, lookforjoe said:

Much cleanup work.

Nice mileage pic!

I also enjoy the Milwaukee M12 equipment - I got one of those stubby impacts a couple years back - really glad I did!

Thanks! Yeah, I've been really impressed with the M12 impact so far.  I use it for just about anything on the car I can.

 

To pick up where I left off on my last post, I replaced the OEM battery cables with some upgraded cables I made myself - what I did is not very different than the "Big 3" upgrade described in this write-up.  Most of you probably know that the stock cables are notorious for voltage drop as they age, especially on the 99/00 models.  While I never experienced any voltage drop issues on this car, with a stereo system upgrade in the future, it was a good time to upgrade.  To start, I removed the stock cables from the factory loom, which was the most tedious part of the whole process, and used them as templates to order new bulk cable and battery terminals from KnuKonceptz. 

I used 1/0 AWG Kolossus Flex for the main alternator/starter/battery cables, 4 AWG cable for the B+ cable to the main fusebox, and 8 AWG for the ground straps on the cylinder head.  Given the stock alternator is rated at 125 amps, I used a reference chart from Crutchfield to verify the wire size for each new cable would meet/exceed the ampacity of the stock cables.

The new alternator/starter/battery cables basically follow the stock routing, but are outside of the main engine harness - while the Kolossus Flex cable is flexible enough to follow the stock routing, unfortunately there was not enough room in the stock plastic housing for the new cables to fit.  The cables are terminated with crimped-on ring terminals and adhesive-lined heat shrink boots. 

50088416288_2cf40fc727_c.jpg   50089229047_1124a21d49_c.jpg

I used a pair of Bassik battery terminals - I'm not 100% sold on continuing to use them due to the space constraints caused by the stock airbox, but they were the best available choice in terms on physical size and still offering a variety of set screws to work with the ring terminals on the cables.  I may try a pair of top-post "mil-spec" terminal from Napa at some point in the future.

50088416288_2cf40fc727_b.jpg

The 4 AWG wire fit fit neatly into the stock rubber boot and loom at the main fusebox.  Form a 90* bend in the ring terminal inside the fusebox allowed it to join right up to the stock terminal post and keep everything clean/stock-looking.

I replaced the 2 braided ground straps that run from the cam cover to the chassis with 8 AWG. 

50088989986_945091366d_c.jpg

And last but not least, I ran a length of 1/0 AWG from the battery to the truck to supply power a stereo amplifier and AC power inverter.  The 1/0 fits through the drivers side accessory grommet, but just barely.

50088990661_ed46152c74_c.jpg

 

I wanted to keep the "wiring train" rolling, so I ran all the wiring for my AEM WBO2 and boost gauges.

During the engine swap last year, I had a friend add a bung to the stock downpipe.  I am planning on adding a 3" downpipe in the near future, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on the AFRs in the meantime.

50089229642_892ef86a3a_c.jpg

Since there wasn't room in the accessory pass-through, I ran the WB wires through the firewall grommet on the drivers side of the car, then through an open spot on the fusebox to get behind/underneath the dashboard.  The boost gauge and oil pressure gauge wiring fits neatly through the accessory pass-through with the stereo power cable.

I'm using the previous-gen AEM UEGO, which utilizes a Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor.  The current gen uses the newer Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, and is much faster/more accurate.  Conveniently, the LSU 4.2 sensor is the same as the stock front O2 sensor, and the plugs are even identical:

50089229292_960543c27a_c.jpg

This means I can quickly swap sensors between the ECU and the AEM gauge to troubleshoot if I suspect there's an issue with one of them.  I made a sub-harness that connects to the stock accessory connector to supply power to all 3 A-pillar gauges (WBO2, boost, and future oil pressure):

50088990746_72091ef6ea_c.jpg

I replaced the stock accessory connector with a 6 pin weatherpack connector, then ran my relay so that everything is ignition-switched while ensuring there was adequate power supply (10 amps for WB02, <1 amp each for the other gauges).  Each gauge plugs into one of the 2-pin weatherpack connectors, and allows me to easily remove one or all the gauges if needed.  

The junctions are properly parallel-spliced and heat-shrunk.  I don't use solder for anything on a car - crimped joints are much more tolerant of the vibration that a car generates and will be more reliable in the long run.

Using the proper crimp tool, weatherpack terminals are inexpensive, reliable and easy to terminate:

50088989821_3af80b2efe_c.jpg

You can save yourself the trouble and buy a pre-made harness from @JVC that plugs right into the stock accessory connector.  I installed mine a few days before he put the F/S ad up, otherwise I would've bought one. 

 

One day this summer, I ran some errands, went back into my apartment, then came back out to finish unloading the car and saw this mess :monkey:

50088990611_cc038e77c3_c.jpg

The piece of heater hose I used to delete the PCV banjo bolt system had failed and was leaking coolant.  I pulled it apart, and went to install the stock hose/banjo bolt assembly and ran into a small snag:

50088989756_44efc18f96_c.jpg

I'm running an 04 engine, but used the 00 thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat without needing to remove the whole housing.  As it turns out, the 04 PCV coolant hose needed to be trimmed to fit on the 00 housing.  Once the hose was cut and the orientation adjusted, it was an easy install.  Since I had previously deleted/blocked off the banjo bolt, I took the opportunity to install the updated banjo bolt with the internal check valve, PN 31325709.

While I was in there, I replaced the thermostat and put a new o-ring on, and replaced the Reinz thermostat housing gasket with an OEM one.  The Reinz gasket had slowly leaked ever since I installed it, so I'm glad that leak is gone.  There's factory TSB that advises using 2 gaskets in that location to prevent leaks, but mine has been okay so far.  I've got spare gaskets sitting on the shelf if problems arise.

 

While I had the intake manifold off and everything torn apart, I replaced the worn-out vacuum check valves with new OEM valves (PN: 1275226 - thanks @B Mac) and most of the rubber vacuum lines with new silicone lines from FlexTech.  The lines I replaced are the TCV lines, CBV line, and EVAP purge valve line.  It may not seem like much, but I had been ignoring the vacuum lines since I swapped this engine into the car in January 2019 and I'm really glad I got that sorted out.

Here's the stock P80 ME7 vacuum line diagram for reference:

50350202586_fde038d796_b.jpg

I used constant-tension clamps from Bel-Metric to keep each hose securely in place - no more messing around with zip ties to hold those lines on. It also gives the aftermarket lines a nice OEM+ appearance that I appreciate.  I used several sizes of clamp based on the various OD sizes of the different hoses.  I did not buy the CTC pliers, instead I used a pair of needle-nose vice grips.  The vice grips made it easy to lock the clamp fully open, slide it into place, then slowly release the clamp in the orientation I wanted.  Each clamp was placed so that future access with the needle-nose vice grips will be as easy as possible.

50350202896_ec004231a2_z.jpg   50350202966_fae29fc449_z.jpg   50350202971_33c12f7d7a_z.jpg

 

Up next will be the story of my injector woes

  • Upvote 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/28/2020 at 6:31 PM, Brad850 said:

Did you install the sweet ass oil pressure sensor thingy????

Not yet! That’ll happen just as soon as I buy a gauge for it. Did you install yours?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
On 9/16/2020 at 4:54 PM, andyb5 said:

Since I didn't need to drive anywhere, I pulled my injectors and sent them off to be cleaned/flow tested.  They're originally from my 99 R and had about 250,000 miles.  It seemed like a good point to perform a little bit of preventative maintenance so I didn't have to worry about them failing down the road.  Boy, did that come back to bite me in the ass.  I'll explain a little later...

50088990276_529e02a8ee_h.jpg

Anyways, got the injectors back in about a week and half after mailing them out.  The flow test results after cleaning showed a couple percent improvement at most, but they were basically in great shape to start and didn't have any issues.  As a part of the service, they were ultrasonically cleaned, and the filter baskets, o-rings, and pintle caps all got replaced.  

Okay, story time.  Fast forward 2 months after having my injectors cleaned and serviced (see post above) and I'm about 1 hour into the 200 mile, 3+ hour drive from my parents house in RI back to my place in NY.  If you remember, the last time I made this drive, I popped a tire on a pothole and it took 5 hours to drive the rest of the way on the donut spare. I drove past the area where I got the flat tire and think that was the worst drive home I've ever had.  Well, I sure jinxed myself....

I'm cruising along at 65-70 mph and my car starts feeling down on power.  I'm mildly confused, but not too alarmed at this point.  I assume an intercooler hose is loose or something relatively benign like that.  So I make it to the next exit and when I start driving down the ramp, a huge plume of smoke starts billowing out from the back of the car :excl:

My first thought is that my car was now on fire :ohmy::ohmy: So I pull over and turn the ignition off, then get out as fast as I can.  The smoke died down when I turned the car off, which was both relieving and worrying.  I spend some time troubleshooting on the side of the road, but couldn't get my car to start back up again.  

Now, it's a Sunday afternoon in July, during a global pandemic.  It was 90 plus degrees out and I was sweating my ass off on the side of the road with a dead car and 2 hours of highway between me and home.  I wasn't having a particularly fun time.  With the realization that I wasn't making it back to NY, I started figuring out where I could get my car towed to.  I realized I was actually pretty close to Re-Volv, so I called @Tom. to see if he or Nick @NGBwere around and able to give me a hand.  As it turns out, Nick was at the shop.  Tom called Nick and Nick was kind enough to get the flatbed, drive out, and tow my car back to Re-Volv.  I spent another night at my parents place in RI, and waited for an update from Re-Volv.

On Monday afternoon, Tom figured out that one of the injectors got stuck open and was dumping fuel into the cylinder. It flooded the motor badly enough to cause it to stall out.  Thankfully, it didn't hydrolock the motor or bend a rod.  

50350359957_5331f6880b_b.jpg

The smoke was from gas burning off in the exhaust system :monkey:  The good news was that when Tom put a used set of green injectors in, it fired up and ran normally again.  

As proof that no good deed goes unpunished by the car gods, getting my injectors preventatively serviced (to avoid issues) was, of course, the cause of a spectacular failure that left my car dead on the side of the road.  But hey, daily driving a 20 year old Volvo is fun, right?

  • Upvote 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Saffron
      I just got my car back after ten years with the kids; it shocking looks new (miracles happen). I changed the belts, fluids, brakes, et al and replaced the struts (Sachs OEM) and relative parts. However, it still feels like mush. I was thinking Bilstein B6's and cut the springs an 1" or so, but came to my senses to ask. What would you do? 
      Data: Bought new, next day installed the IPD chip and dual exhaust. Nothing else has changed from Vovlo Specs
      Goal 1: I'd like to lower the stance a hair and stiffen the suspension. That is my goal, the best for the less for street use only. I don't expect to make any adjustments for conditions. I live in hilly Seattle. 
      Goal 2: Give'er a litle more life, a testosterone shot for age. Should I rebuild the turbo? if so, Ideal boost for low maintenance? A RIP kit? Change the throttle body? Best bang for the buck in your opinion?
      Appreciate any guidance. Nice to have her home again




    • By VolvoDon
      My 2007 Volvo V70R has developed a weird 'whistling' noise; it occurs following hitting a bump on the road but comes from the sound system, not the engine or turbo (directly); it rises in frequency with throttle application. Could the bumping cause microphonic pickup from the turbo or other mechanical component?
    • By ksb
      Our much beloved V70R (~110K miles) overheated on a family trip from Oakland to LA this week.  It now sits at a dealer/service station waiting either for us to pour more money into it than we can afford right now, or for you to come and pick it up.  Asking $1500, OBO.  Then you can either fix the thermostat (and possibly head gasket) yourself, or part it out.
      We are the original owners, with complete service records.  Right before this trip, it had a regular service and new front brakes done (but, ugh, not the thermostat).
      Needs to happen by Weds July 8, in Los Angeles. Paypal, Venmo works.
      (1st side facing pic is from this week, dash board & down facing pic from last year.)
       



    • By YV1LW
      A7737.pdfA7610.pdfA7608.pdfWanted 1998 V70R driver door interior panel. Interior code 3866.A0636.pdf
    • By Shane E
      99’ V70R wagon for sale best offer. Black with tan interior. 159K. Timing belt @ 111k, head rebuilt @ 128k. New heater core and radiator. Rebuilt rear driveline @ 130k but now removed because it started to vibrate. ABS light is on and abs is non-functional. Nice interior and no dents on exterior. Located in 83422. Text me for pics.. Shane, two 08 31three 9zero46