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andyb5

Andy's 2000 V70 R

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2 hours ago, andyb5 said:

New Aisin pump will go on

0.01$ people here usually prefer SKF kit, all rollers, belt and pump. 

Haven't seen such plastic pickup pipe, they must been introduced 2004+

Did you compared baffle plates of your R engine and this one? Wouldn't the R's be larger, better covering the pan...? 

btw, what happened to your 2000 R B5244T2? 

Edited by Andzey

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I don’t have any first-hand experience with SKF although I know they have a good rep. I used Aisin because they’re the OE supplier - they simply grind the “Volvo” off the casting before packaging.

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The oil pans and the internal baffles are exactly the same between the B5234T8 that I removed and the B5234T9 that is being installed. It’s my understanding that the B5254T4 from a P2 R came with an improved baffle setup, but none of the other P80 or P2 motors did. 

The original B5244T2 was gone before I bought the car. Apparently a previous owner overheated it, cooked the head, and had a shop replace it with a B5244T from a 00 XC and re-used the 19T/green injectors.  I yanked that same B5244T a year ago to install the B5234T8/M66 from my old 99 R.  Which means the B5234T9 I’m working on will be engine #4 for this chassis...

Here’s this weekend’s progress:

By lunch on Saturday I got the subframe dropped out of my car so engine/drivetrain removal could commence.

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I had to install the main water pipe, oil supply line, and coolant supply/return lines from the B5234T8 in order to use the 18T on the B5234T9 without modifying the ports on the CHRA to use the P2 coolant port configuration. This was a colossal pain to deal with and took far longer than I anticipated.  I had an awful time getting the main pipe out of the block on the T9 - on every other engine I’ve torn down, it has come out fairly easily. However, I spent close to 30 minutes wrestling with this one  before it finally released from the o-ring in the water pump casting. Additionally, the condition of the coolant pipes/hoses on the T9 left a lot to be desired, so I’ll be glad to see those rusty pieces of junk go to the scrap yard. 

Here’s a comparison of the water pipes. The B5234T8 from the 99 R is on the left, B5234T9 from the 04 C70 is on the right: 

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As you can see, the heater core and turbo coolant connections are different. However, the main difference is the configuration of the supply/return coolant lines to the oil cooler. The hard line coming out of the block is different as well. This is what requires the turbo oil feed line be swapped as well. 

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Here’s the two (one and a half?) oil supply lines for comparison. You can see the partial 04 line on the left and the whole 99 line on the right. The offset of the coolant lines to the oil cooler requires a different routing. I’ve been told you can use the oil supply line from a 2000, however I didn’t have one to try so I “massaged” my 99 line to fit. 

After much back and forth between the two blocks, I finally got the 18T installed on the Japanifold and plumbed in.

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After all that was done, I got the timing belt replacement all buttoned up.

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As stated above, I used an Aisin water pump with INA idler pulley and tensioner. Once again, I went with a Gates Racing Kevlar belt.

In addition to the cool blue color (because race car!) there’s a couple major benefits of the Gates Racing belt that make it worth using on a performance-oriented car.

The rubber compound they use is significantly more resistant to heat and chemicals than a standard belt. This means that in the event of an oil or coolant leak, your belt won’t be affected. A higher performance output than stock usually means an increase in engine bay temperatures as well, so knowing that your timing belt won’t be degraded by this heat is important.

The Kevlar reinforcement makes it stronger than a standard belt, which makes it less likely to stretch or shear a tooth off. This means that at higher RPMs/higher power outputs, you know the belt will continue to properly engage the various pulleys and keep everything in time and functioning properly.  All of this means that even at significantly higher power outputs than Volvo designed these engines for, you won’t have to worry about a belt failing prematurely or reduce your timing belt service interval. 

 

 

Here’s where things got a bit frustrating. I knew my AWD hadn’t been working over the last few months, however, when I was starting to investigate the cause, my engine spun a bearing and I’ve been preoccupied since.  

This picture is the input of my angle gear. There’s no splines left, they’ve been completely shorn off. I suspect this is a result of a few things. I spent a fair amount of time over the last few years sliding the car around in wet/snowy weather, which isn’t easy on the drivetrain. I also spent the better part of the last year with a super sensitive gas pedal, which made it easy to shock the drivetrain during clutch engagement. I suspect these two things repeatedly shocked the angle gear enough that the splines eventually wore away.  I’m curious to know what you guys think would cause this type of failure?

32772948528_bb71dffc1e_b.jpg

I have a PDV collar gear that is significantly stronger than the factory part, which is why the angle gear splines wore away and not the collar gear splines. 

Short term, this angle gear will be reinstalled because I need to drive my car again and I don’t want to leave the collar gear exposed to the elements until I can sort out the replacement of my angle gear.

I’m not 100% sure what I’m going to do long-term to fix this, but right now I’m leaning towards installing the 00 R angle gear that originally came in this car and purchase the correct passenger axle to go with it. Thoughts, comments, criticism? Since I can’t get a new angle gear from Volvo and used ones are hard to find, does anyone have an angle gear (that will fit a 99 R) they want to sell me? 

I set my dismay aside and replaced the RMS, reinstalled clutch, bolted the M66 to the engine, and dropped the engine/trans back on their mounts on the subframe and stopped for the night. 

32772950138_99f12d416a_b.jpg

 

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about TD04 chra coolant lines.. I have 3 of them- 1999 13t from lpt awd, 16t from 99 T5 and 19t from my 00 R, and i can say they all had different banjo bolt input output config and different hard pipes as well. After examining chra coolant galleries with welding wire, I found that both holes per same side are connected, while the chra has 2 passages, one top one bottom, hereby cooling turbine side. Thus the best cooling capability and most simetric coolant flow will be achieved if the input/output will be on diagonally opposite e. g left upper right bottom or viceversa. by combining all my hardpipes I managed find such option, the only issue was punching out the blank plugs and make M12x1. 5 thread for banjo bolt. 

Edited by Andzey

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I made some more good progress last night. 

I had a friend add a bung for a wideband O2 sensor to my downpipe while it was out of the car. 

031890f2eb06414457b4c2e42ed1aaaf.jpg

I do still plan to get a 3” downpipe at some point, but  it was easy to do now and this way I can keep an eye on AFRs.

My goal last night was to get the subframe back in and get the car off the lift.

I went to finish up installing the PCV system and install the intake manifold, ETM, and vacuum lines.  I also installed my Snaab intake pipe (the PTC connection is always a pain) and got the wiring harness back on the car.  In order to install the ETM, I had to deal with one minor issue Will (Scottishbrick on SS) mentioned to me after doing this swap on his car. The casting for the throttle body needs to be trimmed to clear the larger PCV box on the later motor. Here’s where it hits: 

14ace71ad3eae6ad09694382c1197045.jpg

All trimmed up and now there’s plenty of clearance. 

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I installed the wrecked angle gear to protect the collar gear until I can replace the angle gear, got both axles stabbed back into the trans and wheel bearings. Buttoned up a few more things (struts, calipers, wheels) and rolled it off the lift shortly before midnight

fe84a18b4e80fdf54e329b0930ef2bbd.jpg

Tonight it’s time for final engine bay assembly, fluids, and first start

  • Upvote 1

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Nice work!  You always make me want to fix mine.  Though I'm not sure I could put the AWD back into her, seeing as how I don't really need it down here in the south.  So... I believe my angle gear is quite young, replaced by the previous owner at around or over 200K. Car has 245K on the chassis.  Let me know if you are interested.  Have a Colorado rebuilt driveshaft too.

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Ugh of course I could have actually used a coolant pipe like that and I just put mine back in car as well. I went for the heat and bend method on mine.

Kind of long suspected the sleeve is the purposeful weak spot in that system, nuts how much if ate up the angle gear :( 

99 xc piece would work though no? 

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On 1/9/2019 at 2:58 PM, Commander Riker said:

Nice work!  You always make me want to fix mine.  Though I'm not sure I could put the AWD back into her, seeing as how I don't really need it down here in the south.  So... I believe my angle gear is quite young, replaced by the previous owner at around or over 200K. Car has 245K on the chassis.  Let me know if you are interested.  Have a Colorado rebuilt driveshaft too.

I vote you fix your wagon too!! You built too cool a car to let it waste away, show it some love and get it back on the street. 

Do you have any idea if the PO put a new one in when it was replaced, or did they buy a used one? Feel free to text me if you’d prefer.

18 hours ago, apeacock said:

Ugh of course I could have actually used a coolant pipe like that and I just put mine back in car as well. I went for the heat and bend method on mine.

Kind of long suspected the sleeve is the purposeful weak spot in that system, nuts how much if ate up the angle gear :( 

99 xc piece would work though no? 

I know, the timing of both of us messing with the water pipes is kinda funny.  I wouldn’t want anyone to run the one that came off the 04 motor, it was all rusted inside and out, plus I had to abuse it pretty hard to get it out of the block so it’s destined for the scrap heap.

Yeah a 99 XC angle gear should work, is it from your old car? 

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4 minutes ago, phunktified said:

I have some angle gears from 00 XC and one from 99 XC, they are different. 

Yeah, I think the 99 XC should be the same as the 99 R angle gear I have in there right now. 

 

Last night I finished assembling everything and got it ready to start up. 

46692874591_f096eb355e_b.jpg

It fired on the first try, and no leaks either! I was (still am, to be honest) ecstatic. This project was a lot more involved that I originally expected. I spent all my free time working on it over the last week and that took a toll on me both physically and mentally. I’m really happy it’s done. I’ll drive it home tonight once I finish cleaning my tools and spare parts up 

  • Upvote 6

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Looks good!  

Side note, you could use a '00 AG in a '99, you'd just need the '00 right axle. Doesn't work the other way around (without additional mod), since the DP would be in the way.

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16 hours ago, andyb5 said:

I know, the timing of both of us messing with the water pipes is kinda funny.  I wouldn’t want anyone to run the one that came off the 04 motor, it was all rusted inside and out, plus I had to abuse it pretty hard to get it out of the block so it’s destined for the scrap heap.

Yeah a 99 XC angle gear should work, is it from your old car? 

I don't have one for you sorry =[ Phunk should have one it seem. last clean looking junkyard one I found ai spent 90 minutes pulling it out at the junkyard and it was beat up on the input side. 

I've got to make a post still but I took mine out to get the feed bent down. The silicone tube for the water to the turbo I guess has been touching and took a bit of material off. I don't think it would have broken through but I hate to have it weakened. 

 

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16 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Doesn't work the other way around (without additional mod), since the DP would be in the way

So the '00 DP only fits with '00 AG, while '99 DP works fine with both 99 and 00?

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6 hours ago, Andzey said:

So the '00 DP only fits with '00 AG, while '99 DP works fine with both 99 and 00?

aftermarket sounds like it solves all that! 

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7 hours ago, Andzey said:

So the '00 DP only fits with '00 AG, while '99 DP works fine with both 99 and 00?

Because the '99 AG sits further to the right, and the '00 DP & AG are offset further to the left so will hit the '99 AG unless modified.

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2000R Angle gear wont work with M66 unless you can find a passenger axle that has the seal in the correct place. 2000R passenger axle won't fit M66

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