Sign in to follow this  
sventastic

Sventastic's 850R Daily Driver Project

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, sventastic said:

Yeah I agree, must be some kind of slop in the drivetrain. The same noise can be created by tapping the clutch pedal at slower speeds to engage and disengage the drivetrain so it could be internal or within the diff/axle connections. To your point about the DMF to SMF - my M56H has an external slave which means it would have originally had a SMF, right? I don't believe the combination of external slave cylinder and SMF was ever available?

 

Something that has been a nuisance since finishing the swap is that my clutch engagement point is only 3-4" off the floor, it feels like about 1/4 of the pedal travel. Sometimes when starting the car cold, the engagement point is basically 1" off the floor until I pump the clutch pedal 5-10 times. When I bled the clutch, there were no air bubbles by the time I was done, but I'd assume these symptoms would point to the clutch not being bled properly? 

That can be the stack height of the clutch and pressure plate too. 

Rattle is for sure smf. my m66c does it at idle and even low speed until you have it pretty hot. Even then it's only less audible. 

A click could be the clutch line wacking the body somewhere or the airbox setup. Is it fed through it's little holder under the airbox tray? That's what keeps it in place, or at least contained. I routed mine through there and I even have some silicone tube around the metal portion to damped further clacks. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On July 18, 2018 at 5:59 PM, apeacock said:

That can be the stack height of the clutch and pressure plate too. 

Rattle is for sure smf. my m66c does it at idle and even low speed until you have it pretty hot. Even then it's only less audible. 

A click could be the clutch line wacking the body somewhere or the airbox setup. Is it fed through it's little holder under the airbox tray? That's what keeps it in place, or at least contained. I routed mine through there and I even have some silicone tube around the metal portion to damped further clacks. 
 

What are you saying the stack height of the clutch/PP would affect?

I didn't feed the clutch line through the airbox because it seemed to route just fine without it, and I didn't want to mess with taking the master/hose/slave assembly apart to do so. I could check if it's moving or rubbing anywhere.

Here's a video showing the clutch engagement required to get the car to creep slowly without throttle. Notice at the start of the video, the bit of slack that I can lift to get the pedal to fully return. If I have the pedal fully depressed then take my foot off of it quickly so the pedal springs up on its own, it will go all the way back up. But when my foot is letting the pedal back up, it doesn't fully return and has this bit of slack. I think what I really need is a vacuum bleeder for the clutch...

 

Edited by sventastic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't route mine through the air box and never had any noise issues. Also, my experience was the best way to bleed the clutch was with 2 people. A vacuum bleeder didn't not do it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, gilber33 said:

I didn't route mine through the air box and never had any noise issues. Also, my experience was the best way to bleed the clutch was with 2 people. A vacuum bleeder didn't not do it. 

I had a friend help me, but with no vacuum bleeder. It was a process of pumping the pedal 12-15 times with the bleeder valve closed, open the valve, close the valve and pump, and rinse and repeat until there were no bubbles. We probably repeated that process 20-25 times, and there were definitely no bubbles by the end, but after all that, we collected maybe 100-150mL of brake fluid. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/18/2017 at 7:07 PM, RedCar850R said:

Wow, thanks for some much needed inspiration. Btw, I've been driving for a few years now with only one e-code headlight glass

I replaced one side shortly after getting the car and forgot all about it. Didn't realize they were different until the foggy weather just recently

E-code side was definitely worse in the fog. I may have to change out for a pair of DOT ones...

Yeah, that's what happens when you put a ECE lens on a DOT reflector........you have to swap the glass AND the reflector.  Cheaper to just buy a whole Depo ECE housing at that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/23/2018 at 8:40 PM, JaredR1 said:

 Cheaper to just buy a whole Depo ECE housing at that point.

where does one purchase such an item

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

R.I.P. my upper engine mount. New IPD poly in place, and bought the Viton oil cap seal to see if that will keep oil from ending up on the cam cover. PCV should still be in great shape so I don't think that's the issue.

Slight difference here.

QwXZH2L.jpg

Had to vacuum the friggin debris out first

UYuNT21.jpg

Firewall mount is also pretty dickered

4fdtCn4.jpg

OEM oil cap seal on the left, IPD seal on the right

QdUnpHR.jpg

The IPD seal (left) clearly covers more area - I think the inner diameter is slightly smaller

SC55hAg.jpg

Edited by sventastic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice headliner. Car keeps paying me back by stealing my credit card. New front wheel bearing is also on order

5274f3c6ad9707c76c0eb35fbc225078.jpg

Edited by sventastic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just pulled the headliner on my 2000 V70R to swap the sunroof. It's really not too bad to get out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, BlackT5 said:

I just pulled the headliner on my 2000 V70R to swap the sunroof. It's really not too bad to get out.

Yeah I'm not too worried, just annoyed because I won't have time to replace it before heading back to Victoria, and Chapman's would probably charge a stupid price for a used one. So might be worth reskinning this one. Also my A/C compressor stopped working a few weeks ago, so that's been great in this heat!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/1/2018 at 10:56 PM, Brad850 said:

where does one purchase such an item

Europe....if you're seriously interested I can probably hook you up with a group deal on shipping

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mid-August I finally had time for a full exterior detail. Got a new Griot's orbital polisher which made things infinitely easier! I hadn't polished it for a year and a half, and hadn't waxed it for 8 months. Finally got rid of the pinstripes and IPD decal on the back too. Removed the front right trim piece and then realized it was double-sided taped on there, fixed that after the photos. 4 weeks later, the paint still looks completely fresh, compared to the last time I polished it when it started fading again within a few weeks.

Then the next week I had to replace a wheel bearing, swapped in new struts and strut bearings, got an alignment, and hit the quarter-million km mark:biggrin: Now just shy of 5000km on the manual swap

(Photo dump incoming)

6ILieRz.jpg

mkuY7cS.jpg

ppFcCJY.jpg

5UQMU55.jpg

rLHymxQ.jpg

f46CGQf.jpg

FX7sKOQ.jpg

sBjHTUX.jpg

tG35LIw.jpg

kDqQZ3A.jpg

qp0XevT.jpg

docn8wi.jpg

8Njm7iL.jpg

HlwHel4.jpg

36s0nwL.jpg

yCAUVwM.jpg

HQlwwL7.jpg

MsYZvxS.jpg

qKXeKTD.jpg

yGPGTyQ.jpg

JY3j6OE.jpg

2iUM4tw.jpg

vrX9PYC.jpg

6b92a658e046814b0f0b557cc7236114.jpg

75987d06d59e25149154af879f6d40c3.jpg

 

Edited by sventastic
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/15/2018 at 6:41 PM, apeacock said:

Paint looks great! 

 

On 9/17/2018 at 6:37 AM, gmsgltr said:

wow - great work! i LOVE me a clean red 850R!

Thanks fellas! Feels good to have a detailed car!

Greg, your car is my goal man, it's too clean. Your photo signature haunts me lol. In 2 years I hope to get collector/antique plates for this thing so it can be a cheap second car to insure then I can really mess with it...

If only this thing would just chill out mechanically for a bit though. Getting a full throttle misfire now, and it's burning a lot of oil since the manual swap :blink: I think the misfire is just plugs as they've done about 50k, and oil burning hasn't been investigated yet. 

Edited by sventastic
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By skatehouse
      For sale.  1997 Volvo 850R wagon with 17” Pegasus wheels. 
      Everything is complete and in good condition.  Runs strong, shifts smooth but needs a lil’ TLC. Mileage is about 190,000.  (Broken Odo shows 139,000) 
      Asking $2000 obo.  
      Located in Oceanside, CA







    • By Jameshufford
      I’ve had my car for a while now and the one thing I’ve watched to learn is diy tuning I purchase the vagcom cable it’s a nice 30 dollar on I did tons of research online because I didn’t want one that sucks I was hopping to use my older obd2 scanner as a pass through to my laptop because it has a usb on the bottom but I couldn’t get it to work, I downloaded tunerpro rt I downloaded the xdf the bins and the adx from the m4.4 wiki and have read the m4.3 wiki I own a battery charger that will easily bring the battery past 13.5v and I have the software that supposedly converts a m4.4 Ecu to not frei from the ac being turned on so now I’m ready to go to the junkyard and get a couple ecus to learn on I’m not going to tune my ecu because it is an original R ecu and I’m afraid to ruin it but I may try to copy the bin from it so I have an r tune, the only real upgrade on the car is the tcv valve is one off of a 06 Saab but it’s the same as the newer Volvo’s but I’m wondering if it is worth it to plug in a m4.4 ecu and deal with all the conversion stuff or just tune another m4.3 ecu maybe find a m4.4 car and grab the injectors too if so which injectors should I look for also I there is a walbro 255 in the Saab that I could use is that worth the trouble to put in the car, I’m not looking to bend rods or pay 300 bucks to have someone do the work that I want to learn and be proficient at I’m very knowledgeable in carburetors and old stuff like that but I really want to learn the ecu stuff especially the oem systems it feels like that is the one thing that holds me back in Being a mechanic  
    • By MasonF
      Hey guys! I just purchased a 1996 850R as a little side project. It's my first Volvo, and I'm excited to fix it up a bit. Need to change the heater core, PCV, flush all the fluids/oil, new plugs, etc.. Drove it home, and it drove really well for being parked for 3 months.
      Planning on a few go-fast parts; new intercooler, boost controller, brakes, and a more efficient exhaust. I've already placed a few orders online, so I'll try and post updates on my progress. If you have any cool parts you want to sell, let me know. :)
       


    • By superleggera
      Finally, my new to me Volvo 850R is en-route from Texas to Augusta, GA. I've long wanted to build one of these cars into a hell-raiser daily driver. Ever since seeing the light of the 5-cylinder in my friends GT40 S60R, I knew I had to have one.
      I digress, this is my first post on Volvospeed, thank you all for the hospitality. The vehicle should be here in two days, so I'm attempting to scramble together the most preferred parts for a full Stage 0 Tuneup.
      I've looked at the IPD Major Service Tune-Up kit, it certainly seems to have all the necessary parts to bring the car up. However, in the interest of future performance (MORE BOOST), I did not know if there is an upgrade Distributor Cap/Wire/Coil Setup preferential to the IPD one.
      Noticed a few people are using the old MSD Blaster coil, and some other different variations of ignition philosphy exist. What, so to speak would be the best set-up to max out a 15G. I will be adding a MBC, tune & full exhaust in very short order.
      I also noticed the preferred method to flush & fill a transmission is to, let me understand this, flush and fill the 6.7 quart sump 3-4 times with Dexron III H fluid or Dexron 6 fluid, then do a flush with all 10 or so quarts with Mobil 1 or a preferred synthetic, correct?
      Any and all advice and input appreciated in advance.
    • By downshifter99
      Hello, got a 1996 850R Estate (wagon) 170,000 miles and have a check engine light on.
      I got the codes ran : P0172 (vacuum line/hose leak) and C0003 TCS Control Channel "B" Valve 1 (subfault).
      What is this C0003 code? I mean, any thoughts what this means?
      I appreciate any and all help as I am trying to get this squared away.
      I used the search and advanced search tool but came up with nada and can't find any info on the web.
       
      1996 850R