First post. Am one (of probably many) that has looked at a Volvo seat and thought "that looks damned comfy, perhaps that'll feel better in my landcruiser!". The Landcruiser is 1993 and doesn't have any electrics in the seating, or any electrics in general passed the absolute minimum. So after hunting in some scrap yards, I found two good looking 2002 S60 Leather seats. They look good, feel good. The left is manual and works just fine. The right is powered, and doesn't work quite so well. I cannot for the life of me get it going. I have the wiring diagrams, I've talked nicely to it, I've yelled at it, and then I've apologised to it about all those nasty things I called it's mother. I've got nothing. I have tested 12V straight on the motors and they move smoothly along with the seat. So there is clearly something wrong in between where I'm applying power, the switches, and it is going to the motors. I'll try a continuity test but my feeling is that, because the whole thing looks in good condition with no rust, ripped wires, corrosion etc, that I'm missing something glaringly obvious. If any of you have any knowledge to help me out that would be terrific - some pics attached. Thank you in advance!
I've been having an ongoing problem with my V70 (287k miles) frying ECUs. It's been four in the last 2 1/2 weeks, even after an independent Volvo shop took a stab and replaced the B+ cable to the fuse box. I'm at the point now where I'd like to gain access to and either clean or remove the engine compartment wiring harness and I'm wondering if there are any tutorials on the subject? I've done many searches with various terms for the harness but I've come up empty. I made some progress on this today and was able to access and open the cross-frame plastic tray that holds the wires to see it filled with years of grime, but to clean the wires and check for shorts I have to pull it much further out of the engine compartment.
I should mention that I found a corroded ground behind the airbox on the strut tower and replaced that along with a bad engine coolant temperature sensor yesterday. I also did some more checking for shorts but didn't find anything apparent when I checked the ECU socket terminals. So I put in another salvaged ECU, started the car and let it idle for 1 1/2 hours before taking it around my condo complex's loop drive for 1.1 miles. I then ventured a bit farther, going up the hill to a school about 1/2 mile away and returned home with no problem. I turned it off and back on, let it idle another hour and then took it for a more extended drive, including freeway at 70 mph. As I was nearing home and driving down a gentle incline the car died again. It made it 11 miles and 3 1/2 hours this time, as opposed to 6.2 miles and 15 minutes after the shop 'fixed' it and 2.2 miles and 45 minutes (mostly idling) the first time I thought I fixed it.
So I don't know if it's something that's slowly killing the ECU or a loose wire that just happens to make contact and shorts at random times after I start driving. The car shows no signs of running poorly right before it dies and there are no OBD-II codes being stored. The shop told me after they got it running they swapped in my original ECU and it did not run so something is killing them. I tried to determine which circuit(s) was bad in the ECUs by opening them to look for obvious signs of trauma and by checking resistances to the ECU ground pin (A46) from all the other pins and comparing a bad ECU with a good one. Nothing obvious popped up. Is there an easy way to determine which circuit(s) is fried in the ECU?
Thanks for all your help!
I need to figure out how to add a wire to the steering wheel or utilize one that is there already to be able to add a control to the wheel. The option that we are looking at now is using the horn wire, which is a poor option. It uses a brush which keeps contact but not permanently, i.e. it cuts out for brief seconds. This is unacceptable because the control we are adding is a throttle control for my new hand controls. How can I add a wire that won't get tangled, or broken from repeated turning of the wheel? HELP! It needs to happen tomorrow, give me all your ideas.
Last week I got a brand new set of tires on my 850 and spent my Saturday >replacing my Fuel Pressure Regulator, so my car was running and driving the best it had in years. Naturally, 31 hours later, A drug dealer that parks across the street from my friend's house ran his Honda full tilt into my driver's door while backing out and booked it down the street. As a result, my driver's door will not open fully, which combined with the aesthetic damage is annoying but not a critical problem, however the door itself has been bent such that there is now a ~1/4" gap along the top edge, which is a pretty big issue during spring in Kentucky on account of the weekly thunderstorms.
As you may have noted my doors are a different color than the rest of the paint, this is not my first door rodeo as I got t-boned in 2010, but previously I acquired the replacement doors in poor fashion (went to junkyard, unbolted doors before disconnecting wiring like an idiot, had to cut the wiring while holding the weight of the door), and my body guy actually put them on. This time I'm flying solo, and should probably take care of things the right way.
First of all, where do I go inside the car to locate the other end of the driver's door wiring harness to disconnect it (try your best not to say it's behind the dash, I would really hate to hear that)? Second, will the door generally be a bolt-on fit for my body or is this something I will need to have a professional match up? Finally, as shown in the second picture above, the panel directly in front of the driver's door is also caved in, preventing the door from opening all the way - is this panel easy to change out, or should I cut my losses and accept that the door will simply not have its full range of opening?
Okay so after my recent accident I got the car back up and running and am getting the foglights back into the bumper.
The passenger side light is functioning and still works. The driver side was busted and the bracket was broken so I had to replace that one.
I ordered two complete foglights RH and LH sides. I cut the connectors to the driver side light because it was completely broken and I mounted the new one that I received and I was trying to connect them seeing as there was only two wires I figured it would be real easy. I tried to connect the wires both ways and neither of them caused the light to light up. There are two wires running from the connector on the car to the connector on the actual foglight, the wires are getting current as I blew the fuse twice...
I am not sure if I am doing something wrong in wiring them or there is something wrong with the foglights themselves. They both will not work when I try to connect them. The odd thing is that the light that is still wired in on the passenger side lights up every time I turn on the foglight switch.
I am really confused as this seemed like it shouldn't be very difficult. Am I missing something here? Any ideas are welcome. Sorry for the block of text.