Hi everyone, just joined the forum and hoping I can get some help😁Just purchased my first car, a 94 850 T5 and looking at some different wheels. I had a quick look on here and people are saying that 17x7 and around a 38-40mm offset is the most you’ll be able to fit on an 850. Currently I’m looking at these V50 wheels, the issue is that they are 17x7.5 and have an offset of 52.50. I really quite like them and for $400 for a set of 5 it seems like a good deal. Does anyone know if I can get these to fit/what modifications I’ll have to do? Also, I hear something about late model wheels not fitting because of their hubcentric sizes or something?
The tires on them are 225/45/17 if that helps, I read 225 is as much tire as you can get on an 850 aswell. Any help is appreciated!
So I have a 2000 V70R parts car that I've been gutting, I want to remove the R manifold with the 19T on it and put it on my 94' 855T. I know I can't just slap it on and drive. So my question is what do I need to do to prevent my stock internals motor from throwing a rod. I know I'll need a tune from a place that knows what they're doing, but what other parts if any would I need, someone one told me I'd need a 960 MAF sensor....
I'm new to this forum so a little info about my 850: Its a stock 2.3L with a 15T turbo, M56L transmission, M4.3 ECU (I have a M4.4 laying around ready for a real tune), and Bosch greens. I used tuner pro to flash a Manual transmission .BIN and edited the constant for the green injectors but i'm not confidant enough to mess with it further as it's my daily driver.
A few 850 and 70-series drivers here may remember posts about the Antenna Down Switch for these cars (Volvo p/n 9204656 -- I believe this is specifically for the black switch, not grey, but I don't believe that matters in terms of wiring). Here's a classic thread that includes a great photo from Mesoam:
My question... I recently picked up the SWITCH ONLY (black, for the 850 interior) on eBay and am now struggling to determine the pinouts for makeshift cabling. In my scratchy diagram (attached), I believe Pin #5 is the one that should pass +power to the antenna when the switch is in the ON position. If so, it would seem that I could splice this power in from the head unit's antenna +power output at Pin #s 1 or 3...
...but what about the embedded light inside the switch? Would I need to connect another available ground wire at Pin 1 or 3 (which seem to be hardwired together regardless of switch position)? Or at 2 or 5? Or... ? Can't tell this from that image in the 2005 post.
Or might anyone have a wiring diagram detailed enough to show this?
I realize this may be a "play with the wires and figure it out" scenario, but if anyone already has the answer... Many thanks.
I am having troubles finding information on the name of a part that I need to replace. It's a part of maintenance to my 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo 2.3L. I want to order it and replace it since its cracked. If I don't know the name of it I cant order it. It's under the fuel rail and plugs (elbow rubber ends)into the manifold then the line extends to the throttle body tree near the vacuum lines. The color of the line is yellow except for the elbow rubber ends. It's about a foot in length. Does anyone know what the exact name for this so I can order it online?
I had to put electrical tape on the elbow end of the tree so that's what you see.
I have just recently installed a 20T turbo, 7 cm2 turbo exhaust housing, NA intake and exhaust cams, NA throttle body and air intake, BOSCH EV14 550 cc/min injectors, and an ARD tune. I did this about two days ago now and when I finished putting everything on the car started up fine. I let the car idle for about 5 minutes, and then took the car for a test drive. As a side note I have swapped the automatic transmission for a manual M56H transmission, this was many months ago. But, I took the car for a test drive and when I would accelerate the car would not respond to the throttle then would backfire a few times, and would then repeat a few more times before the car lost all form of power and stalled itself out. I tried turning the car over but it would only crank not start. The next day I went over a few things to see what could be causing the issue. I pulled the spark plugs out and there was not a single hint of too much fuel. I next checked the shredder valve to be sure I was getting fuel and yes I did have fuel pressure. When I installed the cams which are both from an NA car I retarded the exhaust cam to -4 degrees and the intake cam to -6 degrees. ARD recommended, -4 exhaust and -8 intake, but I thought this a bit much. Does anyone know if the cams are the problem? The only other thing I can think of is that the tune is goofed in some way. The car did start and the car idled down to a beautiful purr but after driving it, which I only did 1/4 to 1/2 throttle (hard to remember but i know the car had to adjust parameters before I really lay into it so I did not go heavy), the car backfired then stalled and will not start again. If anyone has any info they would like to share please do.