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bmdubya1198

2000 V70R Spark Plugs?

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Just picked up a 2000 V70R today that I'm bringing back to life.

From some searching, the B5244T2 V70R should use the same spark plugs as any other P80 turbo car, but for some reason mine has the longer threaded plugs which are apparently from a P2 R. That might explain why they were so hard to remove.

The current plugs are Autolite 5325. Picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/OwRnEwNCQ4dmGdFy1

What kind of plugs should I use? Should I stick with the older style plugs? I'll likely be using Bosch 7955 coppers, but I want to make sure I'm not using the wrong size plug.

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That's unusual.  Can you post some more details about the 00 R?  Any mods, did you buy it from someone on the forums, pics of the engine etc?

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11 hours ago, andyb5 said:

That's unusual.  Can you post some more details about the 00 R?  Any mods, did you buy it from someone on the forums, pics of the engine etc?

The only “mod” I can find is the driveshaft was removed. Otherwise it’s bone stock.

I bought it from Craigslist, and the previous owner was not very knowledgeable about Volvos. But he only had it 2 weeks. The guy he bought it from threw in a bunch of iPd goodies, but nothing was ever installed. Not sure if he knew what he was doing either.

Pic of the engine I took yesterday: https://photos.app.goo.gl/zglvVS8MwnMekWyI3

 

I have some old NGK G-Powers that were in my GLT that I will test out today for fitment. I just wanted to be careful, for obvious reasons.

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Switched to my G-Power (can't remember the exact part number, heat range 6) plugs yesterday after taking a couple HOURS to remove the incorrect plugs. They were so seized up... it's never taken me so long to remove spark plugs. Anyway, new ones went in with minimal effort along with some anti-seize on the threads.

The largest gap on one of the old plugs was 0.067"! And I wondered why it was running rough...

The car is running a little smoother now with the proper plugs gapped to 0.028". It still has an up and down idle after running for a minute, but it sounds better otherwise.

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Bosch platinum/iridium coated are OEM, probably $3 per.  I'd stay close to home here (OEM are fine of course but currently are Bosch relabels at higher price).  If the plugs were well seized in the head I'd expect the coil packs to be crusty/shot/cracked as well.  I'd say these coil packs are "good" for about 60-70k in normal climates - less in hot climates - you ought to have a good look at them and consider replacement.

Clean the throttle body (remove it - get a gasket before hand) and consider refreshing the O2 sensor / boost sensor / and MAF if all ancient.  The car will run tremendously better if all the ECM input devices are actually outputting good numbers.  You have a rear VVT solenoid that is also probably gummy and needs cleaning (get a gasket before hand).

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11 hours ago, troyhyde said:

Bosch platinum/iridium coated are OEM, probably $3 per.  I'd stay close to home here (OEM are fine of course but currently are Bosch relabels at higher price).  If the plugs were well seized in the head I'd expect the coil packs to be crusty/shot/cracked as well.  I'd say these coil packs are "good" for about 60-70k in normal climates - less in hot climates - you ought to have a good look at them and consider replacement.

Clean the throttle body (remove it - get a gasket before hand) and consider refreshing the O2 sensor / boost sensor / and MAF if all ancient.  The car will run tremendously better if all the ECM input devices are actually outputting good numbers.  You have a rear VVT solenoid that is also probably gummy and needs cleaning (get a gasket before hand).

Good to know, thanks! I have a new-to-me ETM that is compatible (current one throwing the ETS light sometimes, erratic idle), so once I get going on this manual swap, I am going to install that. I also plan on cleaning the MAF anyway. I'll also go ahead and clean the VVT solenoid (needs a full timing job, WAY overdue) and replace the gasket.

She's well on her way to becoming my new daily!

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