Perhaps you can give me some help.
Have a 2011 Volvo C30 RDESIGN 6spd. I have a vibration, and wobble, and clicking on stop starts or turning. When i turn its just one click , nothing continuous. At speeds over 90kph, I get a wobble from the front left. Also under acceleration it feels like the something isn't correct in the front left. I would describe it as vibration or engine missing.
I have replaced both axles as i had a tear in the right boot, so replace both sides.
I have put IPD stabilizer end links on .
Checked balance of front left wheel as well.
Sometime when I am braking from speeds of 90kph plus, i get vibration through wheel, like a warped rotor. But other times its fine. Doesn't happen at lower speeds at all.
Car idles great, smooth, great gas mileage, no knocks for contact sounds from engine bay.
At a loss on what next. Could strut mount bushings and bearings be creating this issue?
Anything suggestions that would help , would be most appreciated.
Car has been parked for 8 months or so due to soft brake pedal. Possibly needs master cylinder, also needs struts and shocks to be safe drivable aside from just getting it home. Selling as 5-speed swap/donor motor. You can start it and hear it run if you bring a battery.
I have some records from the previous owner (she bought it from her father in law nearly new and owned it up until I bought it about 3 years ago). I've done most maintenance myself since I've owned it. The car was in a minor fender bender about 2 years ago, replaced front driver fender and bumper. You can see from the pictures. Plenty of road wear and bumps and scrapes in the paint as you'll see in the pictures. I can provide interior pictures upon request, still needs to be cleaned and vacuumed as I was driving it regularly. Rear door panels are torn up from dog transport. Front seats and parts of the back seats would be useable as dark leather swap, no woodgrain trim.
Maintenance I'd do if I was keeping it - Rear interior door panels (dog damage) Rear seat (dog damage) CV Boots Shocks and Struts all around.
Rough condition (but straight) Perfos
Thule Rack included, with one Thule bike tray and off brand kayak racks.
IPD Rear Overload Springs
Car has factory Volvo CD changer in the trunk. Not hooked up, no idea if it works, although I have no reason to assume that it doesn't.
Currently selling WHOLE car only. Located in Louisville, KY. $650. Title in hand.
Iv been getting some data and doing expiriments to help all of us. Think our i5 are pretty great but this lack of easy way to tune isnt gonna fly. So far as a recap i started with a 2000 volvo s70 se. She was na and blew a hg. Fixed it happened again this time the bores didnt look too good so out she went and in came a b5254t out of a 06xc70. I got the car to run on the denso and slowly kept going with it. I also got it to run on my me7 and me9 via harness adapter. Started to work on a few ways to do this to answer the age old can i turbo swap question. In short yes and its easier than any of you would believe. The stock denso with alittle monkeyery to the car actually runs this thing perfect until 8-9psi then things get a bit lean but not scary until 13psi. I am working on the me7 and me9 aswell still just put them on the backburner for the simple fact that their too smart for their own good and im low on time these days. I have found (and i am in the early stages of testing.) That a power commander 5 that we use on motorcycles will work on the denso. Its cheap and i think i can get a speed density conversion with it. Read the link for details i just got referred here due to very little help on the other fourm.
I do intend to sell a pnp set up if theres interest and down the road but i will be posting everything one needs to do it themselves so if anyone can chime in with some help in a few parts id be very grateful and the whole community would benifit.
Anyone know how big na denso injectors are part number 3460? Iv been searching for awhile and im gonna just eat it and build a flow bench if no one knows but i really dont want too lol.
Check out my water injection kit its ugly but man it works (no intercooler or lag) and its cheap.
Before anyone asks yes all of this has been done on the cheap quick and dirty side. Im looking for answers not a show car.. Although i do have this other motor here with sleeves, rods, pistons,studs and a trans thats halfway together for awd swap a real awd swap not the haladex.. But first this is my dd and i enjoy the lack of attention it gets from local pd. Its gonna be a year or two before im going that far with it. For now im looking to make the electronics happy and have some fun. see whats the cheapest most attainable way to do this swap safely and make power is. Keeping in mind that it needs to be simple enough that anyone can do it.
Hope the link is okay promise ill make it less all over the place when i get to my next stopping point with the car. Im just messy
factory volvo key fobs where i work used to be a volvo dealer and some of the left over inventory was a bag of factory key fobs. there brand new volvo parts. they may need new batters from sitting on the shelf for so long. they will need to be programed by the volvo dealer. can be found here on amazon
set of 4 s60r 18" wheels off 2012 s60r, center has been bored out buy a wheel shop to 65.1 mm to fit older 850, v70 and s70.
rims are not bent and in great shape 600$ located in concord California
can be seen here https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/concord-volvo-keyfobs-s60r-rims/6964383047.html
Hi folks, looking for some help with a misfire/sputter on a 1998 V70 N/A (537xxxkm). Car was throwing some codes for the rear O2 sensor, but wasn't doing anything funny. Coming back from a camping trip, it started to misfire/sputter while cruising at 100km/h in 5th gear. It then started stalling out while at idle. I replaced the rear sensor, and shortly after, it started to throw codes for the front O2 sensor (slow response, and lean mixture), and do the same thing.
It is fine on startup, but sometimes will have little fits of stalling at idle, and sputtering/missing when accelerating/cruising. When it would stall, I used to be able to get it too restart on the first try, but now it usually takes 2-4 cycles of the ignition to get it to catch. Once I give it some gas and take off, it improves a little, and just seems to lack a little power. When at idle, you can also smell the exhaust, which normally is very clean.
Today I replaced the front O2 sensor. The car ran well for 30min, then threw the same codes, and started acting up again. I've tested the PCV and the compression, and both are fine. The spark plugs are new, but the rest of the ignition system (Coils, leads, rotor) are older. I'm thinking this sounds like either an ignition system problem, or a fuel system. I'm not sure how to run the normal relay test, because it it is really intermittent with its sputtering/stalling. (Currently there seems to be about a 50/50 chance of it being fine, or acting up when I take it out) I'm probably going to redo the ignition system, because the car needs it anyways, but am wondering what else this could be.