Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Crossthreaders

1997 850 Awd

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I’m currently about to purchase a 850 Awd in regent red (I think that’s the colour). I’m just wondering what I should look out for if there is anything. I have a 94 T5 so I’m pretty confident, just entirely unsure about the awd system. Also what kind of power figures can I expect to push through this awd system, and what’s the torque split? I’m guessing it’s front bias? Again I have no experience with the awd, only the fwd so any help is appreciated. If anyone could point me in the right direction for aftermarket parts for the awd that would be sweet.

I’m planning on around 400awhp and daily driven. Yes I know this will be a fairly substantial build but I have nothing but time. Thanks for any help👍🏾

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not quite the correct subforum.

This video might explain a few things:

If you look on Youtube, you'll find videos of Hussein's V70XR. IIRC, his last dyno results were over 450AWHP while power was distributed 50/50 front/rear.

Change the fluids, keep your tires within spec (it's very particular about this, must be within 3/32"), and don't do any hard launches. These aren't 911 Turbos, RS3s, or GTRs, but the AWD is relatively tough.

There are no direct aftermarket upgrades for the AWD, only the multi-link rear suspension.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Factory test directions:

"Ensure that the viscous unit remains at room temperature (it was about 45 F outside but best I can do).

A7700344

– Raise the left or right-hand front wheel so that it rotates freely. The other wheels must be in contact with the ground.

– Select neutral.

– Position a torque wrench horizontally as illustrated (basically attach it to the big axle nut and position the wrench so that it's parallel to the ground with the handle pointing in the direction of the front of the car. Read the torque value.

– Turn the torque wrench half a turn (180) clockwise with even torque for 25 seconds.

– The torque must be GREATER than 50 Nm ( 37 lb ft) during the entire turn.

The test method assumes that all the other components included in the system function correctly. If the torque is below 50 Nm (37 lb ft), the viscous coupling is outside the specification and/or damaged."

After confirming your AWD actually functions:

First order of business would be M66 Manual swap, Quaife 14J install, S60R clutch or Spec setup. Higher output fuel pump. Look for a used R/RN motor to build. That power level will need suspension, brakes, etc., upgrade. Over 350AWHP, many other factors come into play. 

If you AWD doesn't work, you will likely have a difficult time as that setup is different than mid '98 on, and parts are getting rare, even for the later setup (98-99, '00) and interchangeability is limited. Research that. You can start here for getting to know the parts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By Einherjer
      Today on my way home something went wrong with my clutch system. Shifted down from 4th to 3rd and the peddle suddenly went soft, and the clutch wouldn't disengage. Ended up limping it to my parents place which was a task on its own. 
      I popped the hood when I got there, but cant see any visible fluid around the slave where it meets the trans (internal slave). I've had my dad watch the fluid reservoir as I pumped the peddle and the fluid level doesn't move at all. I cant see any puddles on the ground where it might be leaking.
      So my question is: Is it the the master cylinder that's  gone bad, or the slave cylinder? The slave was bought brand new, has about 3,000 miles on it right now. The master was used, unknown mileage. 
      car is a 1998 V70R with an M58 swap.
    • By Crossthreaders
      Hi everyone, just joined the forum and hoping I can get some help😁Just purchased my first car, a 94 850 T5 and looking at some different wheels. I had a quick look on here and people are saying that 17x7 and around a 38-40mm offset is the most you’ll be able to fit on an 850. Currently I’m looking at these V50 wheels, the issue is that they are 17x7.5 and have an offset of 52.50. I really quite like them and for $400 for a set of 5 it seems like a good deal. Does anyone know if I can get these to fit/what modifications I’ll have to do? Also, I hear something about late model wheels not fitting because of their hubcentric sizes or something?
      The tires on them are 225/45/17 if that helps, I read 225 is as much tire as you can get on an 850 aswell. Any help is appreciated!


    • By ovlov780t
      Here she is. Putting her up for sale. All offers will be considered. 
      https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/1998-volvo-s70-t5-manual/6705737681.html 
       
    • By shea_volvo
      So I have a 2000 V70R parts car that I've been gutting, I want to remove the R manifold with the 19T on it and put it on my 94' 855T. I know I can't just slap it on and drive. So my question is what do I need to do to prevent my stock internals motor from throwing a rod. I know I'll need a tune from a place that knows what they're doing, but what other parts if any would I need, someone one told me I'd need a 960 MAF sensor....
      I'm new to this forum so a little info about my 850: Its a stock 2.3L with a 15T turbo, M56L transmission, M4.3 ECU (I have a M4.4 laying around ready for a real tune), and Bosch greens. I used tuner pro to flash a Manual transmission .BIN and edited the constant for the green injectors but i'm not confidant enough to mess with it further as it's my daily driver.
    • By V70-AAAHHHRRR
      Greetings...
      A few 850 and 70-series drivers here may remember posts about the Antenna Down Switch for these cars (Volvo p/n 9204656 -- I believe this is specifically for the black switch, not grey, but I don't believe that matters in terms of wiring).  Here's a classic thread that includes a great photo from Mesoam:
      My question...  I recently picked up the SWITCH ONLY (black, for the 850 interior) on eBay and am now struggling to determine the pinouts for makeshift cabling.  In my scratchy diagram (attached), I believe Pin #5 is the one that should pass +power to the antenna when the switch is in the ON position.  If so, it would seem that I could splice this power in from the head unit's antenna +power output at Pin #s 1 or 3...
      ...but what about the embedded light inside the switch?  Would I need to connect another available ground wire at Pin 1 or 3 (which seem to be hardwired together regardless of switch position)?  Or at 2 or 5?  Or... ?  Can't tell this from that image in the 2005 post.
      Or might anyone have a wiring diagram detailed enough to show this?
      I realize this may be a "play with the wires and figure it out" scenario, but if anyone already has the answer...  Many thanks.