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JPittVolvo

Deleting Oil cooler lines on a 1998 V70 AWD Turbo

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So i have been dealing with the oil cooler lines on my 1998 V70 Awd Turbo for a while. Vehicle has 169,000 miles or so on it now and since i have gotten the car i have put two sets of oil cooler lines on it. I have used the OEM lines each time with new seals etc. Well the second set is now leaking again from the connection at the rubber hose to metal clamping as the usually seem to start leaking at. I dont want to have to do a third set of lines or have these ones rebuilt. I was able to get a hold of the NA motor oil cooler block off plate that it uses instead of having oil coolers. Does anyone know if that would cause a big problem if i decided to put that on instead of new lines? The car is daily driven to work and back about 2 miles on local roads. Never take it on the highway etc, we use the wifes newer mini van for that. I am just worried that iuf i do the block off that the oil might be too high a temperature and burn out the turbo etc. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated?

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would be preferable to get a pan and waterpipe from a 99 or 00 car with the oil cooler mounted to the back of the pan

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From your references, I'm assuming you're talking about the engine oil cooler lines.  I would definitely NOT recommend deleting them.  I find it very odd you've gone through two sets in 169K miles; these were new OEM volvo lines?

I rebuilt both my engine and transmission oil cooler lines for less than $60 or so total and wasn't that difficult either.  Dry as a bone ever since.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/173439-damn-oil-cooler-lines/

Full credit to @tuner4life who was my inspiration.

 

Related post about when I did the trans cooler lines:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/173679-weepy-oil-cooler-line-repair/

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I took mine to a local hydraulic shop.

The reused the ends and set me up with

seriously HD arctic-rated hose. Nary a drop!

And a LOT less than OEM.  :)

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The early lines were notorious for leaking bad. My 98 never stopped being covered in oil till I swapped an 02 pan and water pipe on it. This is a bit of work but so worth it.

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Yes, the early hoses do tend to leak, but the issues can be remedied yourself for pretty cheap. For the low cost of fixing this yourself, I can't justify the cost of going to the newer oil pan and having the stupid plastic filter.

 I just got done rebuilding a set of hoses the other day.. Ironically it's the same set that Gdog mentioned in the earlier link. I had previously used screw type hose clamps and that is evidently a no-no.. The oetiker type clamps hold tighter and are "constant tension" clamps which won't lose clamping force over time like the screw clamps did and eventually started leaking again.

 

-You can cut the crimps off and re-use the hard lines. 

-Oil cooler hoses are 1/2" and ATF hoses are 3/8" I think (Don't quote me on this). Make sure to get oil cooler/Trans cooler hoses rated for oil. (heater hose won't cut it)

-Use oetiker clamps in place of the crimps (2x per connection, see below picture)

-Then buy new o-rings/seals for the ends of the lines

-Reinstall and send it for another many years.

 

I don't remember what the costs ended up being, but I am probably less than $60 into this project including having to buy the crimp tool for the clamps. 

-Also, a nice little hack for actually replacing the lines is to undo the 2 bolts holding the engine mount by the crank pulley to the engine, jack the engine up and reinstall the upper bolt only so that the engine is now mounted a couple inches higher. That gives better access to where the lines attach to the oil thermostat.

-When re-installing the lines to the thermostat, lube up the o-rings and be sure to fully seat the lines into the thermostat before installing the retainer plate. If you try to draw the lines tight with the retainer, you will just bend it and they won't seal.

-Replace that PITA rectangle gasket between the oil thermostat and the oil pan while you are there if it's leaking. I always use some "high tack" sealant to help hold that seal in place when re-installing. It's a pain, but this is the best/easiest opportunity you will have to replace it.

 

IMG_20191009_210448_zpsnzts2haw.jpg

 

 

Hope this helps!

 

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