This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


Deleting Oil cooler lines on a 1998 V70 AWD Turbo

Recommended Posts

So i have been dealing with the oil cooler lines on my 1998 V70 Awd Turbo for a while. Vehicle has 169,000 miles or so on it now and since i have gotten the car i have put two sets of oil cooler lines on it. I have used the OEM lines each time with new seals etc. Well the second set is now leaking again from the connection at the rubber hose to metal clamping as the usually seem to start leaking at. I dont want to have to do a third set of lines or have these ones rebuilt. I was able to get a hold of the NA motor oil cooler block off plate that it uses instead of having oil coolers. Does anyone know if that would cause a big problem if i decided to put that on instead of new lines? The car is daily driven to work and back about 2 miles on local roads. Never take it on the highway etc, we use the wifes newer mini van for that. I am just worried that iuf i do the block off that the oil might be too high a temperature and burn out the turbo etc. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

would be preferable to get a pan and waterpipe from a 99 or 00 car with the oil cooler mounted to the back of the pan

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

From your references, I'm assuming you're talking about the engine oil cooler lines.  I would definitely NOT recommend deleting them.  I find it very odd you've gone through two sets in 169K miles; these were new OEM volvo lines?

I rebuilt both my engine and transmission oil cooler lines for less than $60 or so total and wasn't that difficult either.  Dry as a bone ever since.

Full credit to @tuner4life who was my inspiration.


Related post about when I did the trans cooler lines:

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I took mine to a local hydraulic shop.

The reused the ends and set me up with

seriously HD arctic-rated hose. Nary a drop!

And a LOT less than OEM.  :)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The early lines were notorious for leaking bad. My 98 never stopped being covered in oil till I swapped an 02 pan and water pipe on it. This is a bit of work but so worth it.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the early hoses do tend to leak, but the issues can be remedied yourself for pretty cheap. For the low cost of fixing this yourself, I can't justify the cost of going to the newer oil pan and having the stupid plastic filter.

 I just got done rebuilding a set of hoses the other day.. Ironically it's the same set that Gdog mentioned in the earlier link. I had previously used screw type hose clamps and that is evidently a no-no.. The oetiker type clamps hold tighter and are "constant tension" clamps which won't lose clamping force over time like the screw clamps did and eventually started leaking again.


-You can cut the crimps off and re-use the hard lines. 

-Oil cooler hoses are 1/2" and ATF hoses are 3/8" I think (Don't quote me on this). Make sure to get oil cooler/Trans cooler hoses rated for oil. (heater hose won't cut it)

-Use oetiker clamps in place of the crimps (2x per connection, see below picture)

-Then buy new o-rings/seals for the ends of the lines

-Reinstall and send it for another many years.


I don't remember what the costs ended up being, but I am probably less than $60 into this project including having to buy the crimp tool for the clamps. 

-Also, a nice little hack for actually replacing the lines is to undo the 2 bolts holding the engine mount by the crank pulley to the engine, jack the engine up and reinstall the upper bolt only so that the engine is now mounted a couple inches higher. That gives better access to where the lines attach to the oil thermostat.

-When re-installing the lines to the thermostat, lube up the o-rings and be sure to fully seat the lines into the thermostat before installing the retainer plate. If you try to draw the lines tight with the retainer, you will just bend it and they won't seal.

-Replace that PITA rectangle gasket between the oil thermostat and the oil pan while you are there if it's leaking. I always use some "high tack" sealant to help hold that seal in place when re-installing. It's a pain, but this is the best/easiest opportunity you will have to replace it.





Hope this helps!


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By 9UPpbH6Cp
      Hello there!
      I'm going for my first subject, I recently bought a Volvo V70 from 1999, but I crashed the front…

      I managed to get all the needed replacements parts, but I can't reacht he 3 bottom bolts on the front section

      On the video we can see it better on why this is hard-to-reach:
      All pictures are on imgur, and I already asked a bit on reddit. I didn't find any YouTube video about it and it seems this is pretty similar on Volvo 850s, S70, C70 of the 90s.
      Thanks very much!
    • By 98s70t5mvt
      Bought an 04 c70 b5234t9 to swap
      Fuel rail with blues $30
      ETM with intake manifold $80
      Auto flex plate $30
      Sas pump $50
      850 x70 air box $50
      Exhaust manifold $20
      New obx straight flange downpipe $200
      Straight flange housing $55 (no cracks)
      Stock straight flange downpipe with cat $100
      Used td04hl-16t p80 feed ports, little to no shaft play $100
      Low mileage (60k) td04hl-16t p2 style feed , no shaft play $200
      Snail turbo cnc billet wastegate actuator fits straight and angle flange with 1 bar spring brand new valued $140 will sell $80..
      Snail turbo - Td04hl-22t billet 6+6 (td05-18g) wheel extended tip 50mmx71mm with 9 blade turbine. Silicone hd cbv with medium spring 14-18psi
      Has 4 open coolant port with plugs
      Paid $960 was dropped by a friend and seems have some rubbing when spun by hand. Never installed so essentially new Will sell for $400 fp offers rebuild for $275. My loss is your gain. Good for around 320-360whp depending on boost and fuel.. Possible it's fine but had 2 so went with the other...
    • By Gachet
      Hi all, good evening
      I’ve got a 850 Turbo 1994 and want the upgrade the turbocharger. I’ve been looking in some forums, specially here, and found out the the TD04HL-16T are basically plug and play with some differences in the flange.
      My doubts still remains in the flange diference: will I be able to retrofit my 15G flange in the 16T without further changes?
      I have found a V70 T5 HPT with B5234T3 engine and I’m about to buy its turbocharger.
      Thanks in advance, cheers from Brazil!! 
    • By zman172
      2006 Volvo v70 (120,000 miles) part out list of parts below:
      Box #1
      Steering wheel
      Trunk hatch carpeted trim
      Center console
      Box #2
      Car jack and breaker bar red handle and tow bar
      A/C compressor
      Windshield wiper motor
      Accelerator pedal
      Fuel door lock solenoid
      Navigation Antenna
      Antenna amplifier (green or orange x2)
      Ignition immobilizer
      Ignition switch starter
      Turn signal stalk
      Sensor alarm
      Seat belt restraints (x2)
      Door sill plates (x2)
      Metal radio pocket
      Volvo plastic radio pocket
      A/C control unit
      Side view mirror left
      Servotronic fuse relay
      Trunk latch
      Windshield wiper stalk
      Overhead light driver front
      Rear bumper trim (x2)
      Dashboard trim
      Instrument border
      Rear speaker covers
      Driver motor seat controls
      Passenger motor seat controls
      Gear shifter
      Steering wheel column cover
      Door speaker covers front (x2)
      Center console trim (x2)
      Rear carpeted trim panels (x2 one thin one thick)
      Front cupholders
      Rear cargo upper trim with dome light
      Master cylinder
      Box #3
      Side view mirror right
      Wooden door handle trim pieces (x4)
      Fuel pump regulator
      Overhead dome light rear
      Windshield rain sensor
      Tan headrest with long spikes
      Tan headrest with brackets (x2)
      Rear armrest with cupholders
      Flip down sun shield left (red wire)
      Flip down sun shield right (green wire)
      Rear view mirror and wiring harness
      Power steering pump tank
      Right upper brake light
      Right lower brake light
      Armrest for front seats
      Driver window switch box
      Front passenger window switch
      Airbag sensor
      Rear speakers (x2)
      Box #4
      Side airbags (x2)
      Spare tire
      Rear fuse relay box
      Rear third brake light
      Emergency brake with leather
      Rear trunk speaker trim (x2)
      Right rear trunk carpet trim
      Box #5
      All 4 door panels
      Back hatch carpeted floor (x2 one thin one thick)
      Rear bottom single seat
      Single seat leather upper
      Double seat leather upper
      Left and right rear seat bolsters
      Right front carpet
      Left front carpet
      Drivers front seat
      Passenger front seat
      Rear trunk hatch trim
      Box 6
      Braking systems (x2)
      Glove box
      Emergency brake trim (x2)
      Center console back plate
      Passenger lower dash cover
      Floor door trim (x2)
      Front door handles
      License plate frame
      Seat railing covers
      Box 7
      Instrument cluster 163000
      Radio trim
      Shifter trim
      Trunk trim (long back piece (x2) and shoulder piece
      Floor door trim (x2 longer pieces)
      Rain sensor cover
      Dash radio storage box
      Fuse panel cover
      Gas tank cover
      Front air bag crash sensor
      Rear air bag crash sensors
      Air bag impact sensor
      Headlight switch
      Hazard light switch
      Dashboard airbag
      Box 8:
      On pallet not in box:
      Door pillar vents (x2)
      Torque rod
      Windshield wiper motor cover with seal
      Trunk pillar covers (x2)
      Left side skirt cover
      Right side skirt cover
      Left and right side door trim panel moulding (x2 longer)
      Left and right side door trim panel moulding (x2 shorter)
      Trunk trim with cut out for lock
      Trunk trim no cut out
      Left and right trim railings (x2)

    • By lowbudgetracing
      factory volvo key fobs where i work used to be a volvo dealer and some of the left over inventory was a bag of factory key fobs. there brand new volvo parts. they may need new batters from sitting on the shelf for so long. they will need to be programed by the volvo dealer. can be found here on amazon

      set of 4 s60r 18" wheels off 2012 s60r, center has been bored out buy a wheel shop to 65.1 mm to fit older 850, v70 and s70.
      rims are not bent and in great shape 600$ located in concord California
      can be seen here