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Any Easy Temporary Fixes For A Rear Main Seal Leak


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#1 Rooooney

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 12:35 AM

I have a 1993 850 with 200,100 miles. Is there any easy or temporary way to stop or slow down a RMS leak?
1993 850 original motor and tranny 200+k



#2 Geevs

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 03:14 AM

Check out www.auto-rx.com
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#3 merlin390

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 05:47 AM

well, you have to remove the transmission to get to the rear main seal, since you have gone that far might as well go hog wild and replace it while you are in there and replace the front pump seal on the tranny as well, its behind the torque convertor
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Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
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#4 maiku

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 08:58 AM

getting the RMS fixed toooday...
i wish i could get a manual swapped, but other AUTO people drive the car besides me...

#5 VolvoT5

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 12:11 PM

QUOTE(anitanium @ Apr 14 2005, 09:58 AM)
getting the RMS fixed toooday...
i wish i could get a manual swapped, but other AUTO people drive the car besides me...
View Post


Why?

#6 WhiteT5

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 12:48 PM

Most people here in the states don't know how to drive manual transmission cars cause they're wusses. I learned to drive using a manual car and I learned to ride a motorcycle before that with a manual transmission. I mean, seriously, it's retardedly simple. Ease on the gas, ease off the clutch. Then just off the gas, on the clutch, shift up and ease back on to the gas and off of the clutch. It's hard to put into words, but once you know how to do it, you don't even think about it. You just do it.

EDIT: Darn we got off topic really quickly. It may help you to run a bit higher viscosity oil for a little while (10w-40) until you can get the leak fixed. I also agree that Auto-RX is incredible stuff and may do some good until you can get the problem fixed.

Edited by White850T5, 14 April 2005 - 01:00 PM.

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#7 Vitor

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 01:59 PM

Just to clarify.
The RMS is a seal that is held in position by the friction of the rubber (or soft sealing compound) against the seal carrier.
There are no bolts holding the seal, there are bolts holding the carrier, but that has never been a source of leaks.

This may help your situation.
Make sure your PCV (Flame trap) is working properly. Pressure in the cranckcase will accentuate a leak, any oil leak.
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#8 maiku

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 02:00 PM

it used to be that manual cars were less expensive than autos...
now its backwards since auto tranny's are so popular..
my next car will be a manual!


check oil often and top up when necessary

#9 DEWFPO

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 06:50 PM

I agree w/Geevs, By far the easiest.... try Auto-Rx. It will take some time and might not work, but if it does it will be the easiest and cheapest fix for your RMS leak.

DEWFPO
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#10 Kashif

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Posted 14 April 2005 - 10:47 PM

Would about adding a little bit of brake fluid to the oil? I have heard that this is an old mechanic's trick for swelling up the rubber seals.
94 850 NA 200,000 miles, K&N air filter, Koni Struts & Shocks, IPD Sway Bars, Euro side lights

#11 shaun

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 12:27 AM

QUOTE(Rooooney @ Apr 13 2005, 05:35 PM)
I have a 1993 850 with 200,100 miles. Is there any easy or temporary way to stop or slow down a RMS leak?
View Post



at idle, does your car blow alott of hot smokey air out from the oil fiiller cap and dipstick tube?

if it does temporarily vent the crankcase, it is immoral and wrong but it could help alott. run your oil level as low as possible but still circualting to keep it off the seal, and use 50wt oil. and then of course replacing the rear main seal and getting the erg (blowby) system up and running asap. i have nerer tried the seal swelling stuff, what the heck, give that a shot too.
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#12 VolvoT5

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 12:48 AM

QUOTE(White850T5 @ Apr 14 2005, 01:48 PM)
Most people here in the states don't know how to drive manual transmission cars cause they're wusses.  I learned to drive using a manual car and I learned to ride a motorcycle before that with a manual transmission.  I mean, seriously, it's retardedly simple.  Ease on the gas, ease off the clutch.  Then just off the gas, on the clutch, shift up and ease back on to the gas and off of the clutch.  It's hard to put into words, but once you know how to do it, you don't even think about it.  You just do it.

View Post


Yeah... I drive two manual T5's and other manual cars wink.gif

Over here, hardly anyone learns in an auto unless they either cannot drive or they are very old. Most cars here are manual.

#13 NateB

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 05:28 AM

Well, FWIW - I learned to drive in a manually equipped 1973 German Ford Capri ( a sweet little car).

For years I insisted on driving only manual transmission vehicles. In my younger days ( teens, 20's and part of my 30's) I too thought AT equipped cars were for "wussies".

Then a couple of things happened:
1) I moved to Houston where the traffic is bad ( no , awfull)- no fun shifting from 1st back to neutral in hot stop and go traffic

2) The Volvo 850 turbo is actually hard to beat with an auto transmission. When Road & Track tested it they made the comment to the effect that the auto transmission was set up near perfectly to hit the power band of the turbo.

Anyhow - I do like manual transmission cars as long as you have enough space to run them up through the gears and back down again.

One new car I like design wise is the 2005 Mustang GT. I think I would insist on a manual tranny on it.

Oh yeah, what does this have to do with the originator's thread regarding a leaking RMS tongue.gif

Edited by NateB, 15 April 2005 - 05:30 AM.

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#14 maiku

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 05:53 AM

manuals are more fun to drive though!

#15 Geevs

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 03:01 PM

Back to main topic - Michael how's your RMS fix go?
96 854R red/blk (Euro-spec 5-speed)
Conti DWS | Neptunes | H&R springs & spacers | Koni Yellows | OMP Brace | QBM Endlinks | Samco & HTS hoses | EST short shifter & cat-back | OBX DP | K&N filter | Momo Anatomico | Hella E-codes | Brass & Delrin Bushings
96 855T silver/blk (Can-spec Auto)
R bumper & sway bars | Exclaim UHP | Thors | Kilen springs | H&R spacers | Monroe Sensa-tracs | OMP Brace | QBM Endlinks | Samco & HTS hoses | K&N filter

#16 Asinine

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 03:20 PM

My opinion - on the topic of Auto vs. Std is that the times that standard is a beatch to drive outweighs the times that it's fun to drive. i.e. stop and go and the resulting painful knee for the days after is way worse than a spirited drive is good.

I don't like that my 850 (first auto i've had in 3 cars) shifts unexpectedly sometimes (as with any auto) and of course the fix to this problem is:
1) Buy a car with gear-tronic or whatever; or
2) Buy a split window corvette with a 4 speed biggrin.gif

As for the rear main seal, umm.. ditto!?

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#17 NateB

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 08:44 PM

QUOTE(Geevs @ Apr 15 2005, 09:01 AM)
Back to main topic - Michael how's your RMS fix go?
View Post



Yeah- we sure did hijack your thread blink.gif

in my humble opinion, based on about >30 years of driving - there is no majic fix for leaking seals; leaking ac evaporators; leaking radiators; leaking heater cores; and anything else that leaks. In fact, there are no cheap fixes period... Now if you are trading the car tomorrow- that's another story. Me, I like my 850 and although I can afford to buy a new car- I cannot find one I like to drive as much smile.gif

The RMS replacements will likely run between $800 to 1,000 US dollars if performed by a reputable mechanic. I do not envy you having to contemplate this.

Here's my own logic on the 850 - I am the original owner and the car is 10 years old. Things will break and wear out on a 10 year old car, the alternative for me would be spending $45K for a "comparable" new vehicle.

My best advice is search long and hard for a really good and honest indy Volvo mechanic shop. I was fortunate and found great one in Houston. He isn't cheap- but is less than the dealer. Most importantly, he has a passion for Volvo's and he and his technicians do outstanding work.

Good Luck !

Edited by NateB, 15 April 2005 - 08:47 PM.

NateB

1995 Volvo 850 T-5 Sedan
Houston, Tx.
Original Owner- 102,500 miles
Upsolute ECU (Adrenaline Racing)
Custom 2.5" Cat Back w/Magnaflow
SAMCO Turbo Hose Kit
Hosetechniques Silicone Vacuum Lines
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts /Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Pretty Good Backyard Mechanic - Thanks To Rich and this Forum!

#18 Guest_Guest_JTSPO_*_*

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Posted 16 April 2005 - 04:34 AM

QUOTE(Kashif @ Apr 14 2005, 10:47 PM)
Would about adding a little bit of brake fluid to the oil?  I have heard that this is an old mechanic's trick for swelling up the rubber seals.
View Post

the high milage motor oil like maxlife is formulated to soften the seals. might want to give it a try. I heard about the brake fluid too. It seems swallon up rubber a bit.

Try maxlife for two oil changes and see if that stops it.

#19 Rooooney

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Posted 16 April 2005 - 07:29 PM

QUOTE(Geevs @ Apr 15 2005, 10:01 AM)
Back to main topic - Michael how's your RMS fix go?
View Post

I put a 50/50 mix of lucas oil and regular oil in the car and it slowed the leak. I think after another 3000 I will try that RX stuff. I just can't afford to fix the rms right now. Will the RX stuff clean the flame trap or should I do that seperate?
1993 850 original motor and tranny 200+k

#20 Bay13

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Posted 16 April 2005 - 08:59 PM

I'd clean the flame trap, don't rely on the RX to clean that.




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