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JESSEXC

The VS FAQ List/how To Search/how To

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Ok lets try to help out the new guys. Help me compose a list of frequently asked questions. Like what tire size fits,turbo part #s,max boost.........

C70 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gshynedm/...0yrchanges.html

MOTOR

stage zero "tuning" list and if ur car lacks performance...

Full stage 0 list:

Plugs

cap/rotor

oil/transflush

filter (oil)

hoses (the little vac lines)

samco hose kit

02 sensors

fuel pumps

clean injectors

clean IC/IC plumbing

Air filter

plug wires

Sound good but to expensive..

Don't forget that a lot of people are on a budget. A lot of money has gone in to the car itself and Mr. Powerupgrade is knocking on the door.

If to choose from a ECU upgrade or a Stage 0 the conclusion is obvious..

Then after the ECU upgrade there is what we could call a Stage 1.1 which means double posts on all the known forums why the boost doesn't work, why the car is hesitating, why the rods go S( ), etc, etc..

I think the best advice for a stage 0 is to start with a good optical inspection, this doesn't cost you a penny. While checking parts specially near hoses make sure to clean the surroundings from residues. This will also give faster indication of leaks at a later point. You know is wasn't smudgy and greasy the last time you checked..

Clean the airfilter. You can see for yourself if dust and rubbish is in there.

For the oil and filter, new is better of course but seldom a cause for problems. Just make a fixed shedule for this either mileage based or time based. When starting with tuning a fresh starting point is the way to go. After that keep it in a fresh state.

For the boost part check the STOCK hoses for small cracks near the clamps and for oil softening because at these spots the hoses often show small leaks and mostly near the clamp screw.*

Check the rubber T connection for the idle valve at the hose connected to the TB. A known spot for cracks. Just squeeze the hose and cracks will show.*

At this point there really is no need for Samco stuff but when replacing think Samco, stock hoses can do 1.4 bar easy. (trust me). There's no Samco stuff available for the cold (Early) setup so you'll have to fabricate some stuff yourself. For the TB a connection can be welded to the IC pipe and a separate small diameter Samco hose can be used for the idle valve.

For vacuum, all hoses inclusing the x-mas tree at the TB and the 90 degree crank vent knee at the end of the manifold.* Follow all the vacuum lines specially where they run around the engine*,

Check the crank vent hoses at the inlet before the turbo. A very wise thing would be to check the turbine for cracks between the wastegate and the turbine wheel but this is difficult to see from the outside. Most boost problems with 15G's can be found in this area. While looking at the turbo also check the vacuum connection to the compressor housing.* Also make sure that the intake system doesn't pull false air. The turbo boost solenoid is bleeding to the intake between MAF and turbo, make sure the connection is in place. Check if all the blind plugs in the system are in place.

Check the 150/40 wastegate actuator. Check again.. This "bike pump" is known for being weak in a stock setup. Even with a boost raising chip it is better to set it a bit more tight to make sure it isn't operating as a plasma cutter. Before ordering a stronger actuator visually check the turbine for cracks, also on the inside. An actuator will cost you half a turbo.

Why the * ?, These spots are difficult to reach and sometimes difficult to see if there are cracks. Don't be lazy. Don't forget that you are working with pressure so the hoses will expand while under pressure. Check and double check to make 100% sure the parts are OK.

After that check the ignition parts. If a car isn't running smooth and all the hose stuff appears to be OK then there could be something wrong in this area. Rotor and cap are wear parts. Often cut out under load is indication that something is wrong. Cables, check age. If new plugs are installed and the engine behavior is only better for a short while then cables could be a cause. Cables and distributer are overlapping each other in symptoms so sometimes it can be hard to tell where the problem really is. Often cables will function properly for a while after they have been reseated so try to work from one point to the other to rule out the parts one by one. for high mileage cars think about replacing the complete setup ANYWAY.

The plugs.. Huge discussions lots of brands and everybody knows what is best.

A tuned turbo Volvo will run 100% OK on stock Volvo branded plugs for turbo cars. Having a set of fresh Volvo plugs available isn't a bad thing. It will give you a nice "baseline" for comparison and troubleshooting. If all turns out to be OK the more exotic types can be used.

So far no money has been spend. Other things like compression testing will cost a few bucks unless you have connections handy.

Fuel filter, fluids and fluid levels etc. are tune up parts. Keep a shedule and check history of your car. Fuel pump. good enough for 350+ HP if the voltage stays within limits. With high mileage cars think agout replacing.

Try to image the state of your car. Even if you do not want to spend the money on repairs for whatever reason always make sure that the problem is known. One problem might be the cause for other problems. With tuning the weakest links are the first to give.

When the image is clear try to make a shedule of all parts. This way you can spread the costs preventing it to shoot at you all at once. Stick to the shedule no matter what!

In the process of adding parts these weakest links might brake you up.

For the lambda sensors, if the car is running bad due to age or bad maintenance new sensors will go bad in no time. A sort of chicken-egg situation here. Often sensors will burn clean after a short while when the engine is running fresh again unless the car has been running bad for a very long time.

For ECU tuning, Either it works or it doesn't. As a rule of thumb I would say that you can rule out the ECU in 99% of the cases when using maintream tuning. The tuning only causes the weakest links to fail.

MBC's? ...... rod killers and trouble makers IMO.

After tuning and changes always try to check the fuel settings.

ok, one thing to add to the stage 0 things is a new o2 sensor. i just changed my original one (front), and my car runs so much better. i can feel more power, but the biggest thing is that my acceleration characteristics are greatly improved. my accelleration had felt strong, but inconsistent through the powerband. that has drastically improved, along with the added power.

the most important thing about these high mileage cars: stage 0!!!!

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Mitsubishi TD04HL-19T Volvo part no. 8601693

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Blue Injectors - Volvo part no. 9186060

350 cc White Injectors- Volvo part # 0 280 155 766

Green Injectors- Volvo part# 9202100

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M56 Clutch part # 271494 $280

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just ordered the reverse intercooler piping lines from FCP Groton. It was $266 total (not including shipping). They greatly appreciate having the part numbers handy. Although it seems like they should have the fiche to look at anyway.

Here are the part numbers going from turbo to I/C and then from I/C to throttle body.

part # dealer price FCP price description

3517266 $36.66 $23.50 reduction hose (from turbo to alum pipe)

6842334 $80.85 $50.00 aluminum pipe (over engine)

3517268 $66.90 $45.00 hose with 2 bends (I/C in)

6842167 $48.46 $29.50 elbow hose (I/C out)

6842166 $69.04 $43.00 pipe (plastic I think)

6842774 $111.13 $75.00 hose (to throttle body with the extra smaller hose built in)

Of course there are several hose clamps needed as well. I found the fancy T-Clamp style at atpturbo for $3.75 each.

The Volvo parts page printout shows *2* piping options for this routing from the I/C to the throttle body. The second option appears to be one large piece of plastic pipe with those flexible joint things built in. I did not get pricing on that funky looking thing. Though I suppose it would be an option, maybe cheaper? I don't know.

Also, while going over these parts with the guy at FCP there was one part he said that he doesn't usually sell as part of the reverse piping package. I'm thinking that it might be that that piece of hose is common to both routing options and guys usually just reuse the original one. I'm replacing them all as they have gotten soft and are cracking so I ordered it anyway. Its part# 6842167...the I/C out elbow hose. I think its a 45º. Maybe a generic silicon would be less than $29.50. But its way down on the bottom so it won't have much "show" value anyway.

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"Turbo 101 - some info about Garrett hybrid turbos

Disclaimer: All of the following is correct to my knowledge. Please feel free to jump in and correct anything that is wrong or feel free to add anything. This post is pretty long, but hopefully it will help out some newbies that are getting into turbochargers.

There seems to be some confusion about there about what all of the numbers mean when looking at a turbochargers specs. Awhile back, BlueShadow wrote an excellent post on how to read a compressor map. Find that post, read it, and combine it with this one...voila, you'r a guru! (not really)

Garrett makes several "families" of turbochargers that are targeted for different sized engines, HP goals, and drivability characteristics. Crafty tuners, manufacturers, etc, have mixed and matched these components to produce hybrid turbos that can provide the benefits of several turbo families. The possibilities really are endless, but I'm just gonna list some common ones or else this post would be reeeeeeallly long.

Turbocharger families

The T25 family = super fast spooling "small" turbo that makes good low rpm torque, but lacks top end power. This turbocharger is commonly used where throttle response and low rpm torque are desired without much regard to high rpm power.

The T3 family = "intermediate turbo" that spools slower, but has the ability to make substantially more power than the T25 family. This turbocharger has been used on A LOT of production vehicles (Ford, Nissan, Volvo, Saab). They can make impressive power, but were known to be laggy.

The T04 family = "big turbo" that makes huge power, but is very very laggy. Without the beauty of being able to make a hybrid turbo, a T04 would probably not even be an option.

The 3 main components that have the biggest impact on performance are the a/r of the turbine housing, the size (aka trim) of the tubine wheel, and the size (aka trim) of the compressor housing.

Common turbine housing a/r "sizes"

T25: .64 a/r, .86 a/r

T3: .36 a/r, .48 a/r, .63 a/r, .82 a/r

T4: not listed...see why later

In a nutshell, the larger the a/r, the later the power comes. A small a/r gives you a fast spooling turbo but limits top-end power. A large a/r gives you a laggy turbo with big top-end power.

Common T25 turbines:

DSM trim (?? not sure how big it is, but it's quite small)

60 trim (small)

76 trim (medium)

Common T3 turbines:

Stage 1 (small -- most common turbine on junkyard turbos)

Stage 2 (med)

Stage 3 (large -- most common turbine on new T3/T04 hybrids)

Stage 5 (very large)

Common T04 turbines:

I'm not gonna list any because I don't have info on them and the T4 turbines require so much exhaust energy to spin that they are practically unusable in our application unless you want insane lag and have got a motor that will spin to 10k every day.

Common T25 compressors:

I'm not gonna list any. I do have some info on them, but for the most part, a T25 compressor will struggle to stay in its efficiency range on a boosted Honda.

Common T3 compressors:

40 trim (20lb/min -- haha...don't even think about it)

45 trim (21lb/min)

50 trim (30lb/min -- probably one of the most common on junkyard turbos, works well for SOHC and LS engines)

60 trim (34lb/min -- biggest "production" T3 compressor, excellent power on D series/LS)

"Super 60" (36lb/min -- note: this is NOT the "60-1" compressor)

Common T04B compressors:

S trim (37 lb/min)

V trim (48 lb/min)

H trim (49 lb/min)

Common T04E compressors:

40 trim (36 lbs/min)

46 trim (41 lbs/min)

50 trim (47 lbs/min)

54 trim (45 lbs/min -- note that the 54 trim flows less than the 50 trim)

57 trim (49 lbs/min)

60 trim (50 lbs/min)

Common T04S compressors:

60-1 (flows a shitload, never seen a compressor map for it)

62-1 (bigger yet -- I believe this is a T04S compressor...correct this if it is wrong)

Performance (listed in order of increasing performance):

A T25 is a straight T25 turbo --> T25 turbine + T25 compressor

A T28 is a hybrid T25/T3 turbo --> T25 turbine + T3 compressor

A T3 is a straight T3 turbo --> T3 turbine + T3 compressor

A T3/T04B is a T3/T04B hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04B compressor (used in Drag kits)

A T3/T04E is a T3/T04E hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04E compressor (more performance than T3/T04B

A T3/60-1 is a T3/T04S hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04S (60-1) compressor

THANKS to Johann

What Turbo went in which Volvo? :D .

15G - B5234T 225hk/B5234T5 240hk 1994-1995, The old conic outlet

15G - B5234T 225hk/B5234T5 240hk 1996, straight outlet form turbine.

16T - B5234T4 250hp kom 1996 i 850R man, straight outlet from turbine

16T - B5234T3 240hp 1997-1998 finns i S/V/C70 T5, straight oulet from turbine.

16T - B5234T3 240hp 1999-2000 finns i S/V/C70 T5, angled outlet from turbine.

16T - B5234T3 250hp 2001- alla S60/V70N T5, angled outlet from turbine.

18T - B5234T4 250hp 1997-1998 only S/V70R man FWD/AWD, 275/60 wastegate and straight outletform turbine.

18T - B5234RT 250hp 1999 only V70R AWD, 4-vxl aut, 300/70 wastegate and angled outlet form turbine.

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Turbo Upgrades

http://www.pipe-arts.com/

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre.../gt_basics.html

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EricF

Time for intercooler tech 101?

Alright, there are a number of considerations to make when selecting an intercooler design... I'll focus on aspects of design and the various options you have for them, and what variables influence which direction you should go.

1. Intercooler core construction... Essentially two options - Bar and plate, tube and fin. Bar and plate is more expensive to make, is a more efficient heat exchange design, and is what most decent aftermarket designs utilize. Tube and fin is easier to make, less efficient, and what 99% of OEM applications use. Basically this comes down to cost.

2. End tank construction/design... This one is easy, basically plastic vs. aluminum and design is a function of space mainly.

3. Surface area and thickness... There are two main ways to go, large surface area and kinda thin depth, and small surface area but very thick. The large surface area and thin depth generally produces better temperature efficiency, but can create a larger pressure drop, depending on what the end tanks are like. The smaller surface area and larger thickness is basically the other way around.

Now what goes into deciding which of these is best on a given application? Well a large factor is how much surface area is available on the front of the car, which is why all OE Volvo intercoolers have lots of surface area, whereas many other cars' are designed to fit behind the hole in the front air dam, etc. Another perhaps larger concern is the pressure that will be put on the intercooler at speeds, the pressure drop across the intercooler core. This is what determines thickness, mainly, and why the "fmic" intercoolers are usually set very low in front of a car, where there is nothing behind them.

It is my opinion that the front of the 850 is not very conducive to a 240sx / ricey FMIC type design, and to use such a design would be wasting the inherent provisions made by the Volvo engineers to help it work well with an OE-type intercooler. This is also why I will be using a powerstroke intercooler on my 242, and why I would recommend the Atech over a spearco 8x25x3.5 or whatever intercooler on an 850. Moving the A/C condensor or getting one from another car to fit in the airdam or something would be a much better idea IMO

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Volvo trany part numbers

http://www.oconnellusedvolvos.com/Power_Train_Table.html

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9471535 - 300/70 wastegate

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Body, Rims, Suspension

R-Bumper (Just the bottom, not the plastic top part)

9151251

$350

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18'' Pegasus Rims 30647397 $300

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This has been brought up before. "I am looking to install 18" rims on my 850. What will fit?" This is what I found searching this forum.

(may have to roll fenders)

225/35/18 with .5 degree negative camber

215/40/18s

225/40/18s

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Where to find Shocks and struts

taylorautomotive.com

shox.com

ipdusa.com

eurosporttuning.com

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How to replace your struts

http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut <-- By XtremePsionic

I just changed my OEM struts/shocks/and new mounts to Bilstein-TC last weekend using the URL-instructions above. Yes, you can do it yourself if you have floor-jacks and a full set of metric socket wrenches. You will also need a set of metric allen-wrenches; again, make sure it has every size because Volvo loves to use ones that are not normally included in the set. A visit to Sears will take care of those missing links.

Taking the front struts out was easier than it appears. Compressing the springs fully will enable you to remove the star-shapped retaining nut on top of the strut. The rear shocks are even easier to change, no instructions needed. However, the whole project may still take you up to 4-hours to complete, but as long as you have a full set of wrenches you should be ready to do the job. Make sure you replace all the strut/shock-mounts as well.

http://www.z06vette.com/gallery/data/500/5...steinTC-med.jpg

http://www.z06vette.com/gallery/data/500/5...inished-med.jpg (I also did the brakes)

As for the ride, the Bilsteins do dampen bumps better than the stock parts, but the ride is still firm. I'm happy with the results but my wallet is hurting slightly.

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9483932 - "Volvo" emblem (late model)

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9178151 - "R" emblem (850/70)

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Thanks qshadow325

QUOTE (dust869 @ May 27 2004, 05:34 PM)

Dose any one know what wire is what in 1993 850?

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |

| 12V | red |+ |plastic-tube harness |

| STARTER | green/red |+ |located behind the |

| IGNITION |blue/red |relays near firewall |

| ACCESSORY |yellow/purple |+ |under drivers side |

| POWER LOCK |yellow/gray *1 |- |black connector above |

| POWER UNLOCK|green/red *1 |- |hood release |

| PARKING LIGHTS +|white | |by ignition harness *2 |

| HEADLIGHTS |green and grn/wht |+ |underhood fusebox |

| DOOR TRIGGER|yellow/white *3 |- |near hood release |

| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|blue/brown |in park light harness |

| HOOD PIN | yellow/black |- |hood pin switch |

| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |

|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|blue/brown *5 |- |harness from door |

| TACHOMETER |blue | |ignition coil |

| BRAKE WIRE |yellow | | |

| HORN TRIGGER |yellow/black *4 |- |steering column |

| WIPERS |yellow and white |+ |wiper switch |

| LF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/grn - green A |window switch or pkp |

| LR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/gry - red/blk | A |at window switch |

| RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/yel - grn/wht |A |at window switch |

Notes:

*1 also found gray/red and green/tan on some models *2 in a large taped harness with more than one white wire. test to find. *3 do not use the pink/black domelight wire since it is affected by the delay and turns off 60 seconds after the open. *4 horn only works with the key in the accessory or run position. *5 To disarm the factory alarm, must trigger the blue/brown factory alarm disarm wire, and the unlock wire at the same time.

Hope this helps you.

**AnthonyR edit.**

From my own experience butting a clifford Matrix 3.5RS remote start/alarm in my 95 850.

There is a second ignition, that is Blue/yellow. It controls alot of the accessories and ABS/Tracs.

Also on MY95 (I beleive it was the only year) had a 1-wire door lock (green/red) that if ground was cut the doors unlock and the car disarms and when it see's ground again it locks and arms.

You can also find tach in the drivers kick as white/black, as I picked up alot of engine noise in my sound system after trying the coil wire.

-AnthonyR

****

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Can you put a MBC on an Me7 Car?

Yes you can control boost with the control on a me7 car but it will not function right when you hit ur max boost allowed by the ecu. The ecu has a varible to where the boost is to be set. When you use a Mbc you change the whole boost curve and the computer can see that. Also it can see when u go over the set boost limit. Then what it will do it pull throttle and lower boost down. 1st and 2nd gear feel normal cause 1.3 Bar is not reached. But when you get into 3rd gear you will Build boost then reach your max boost then the ecu start yanking your throttle shut cause it has seen too big a difference in boost. So really the answer is you should control boost through the ecu and no the boost controll wont work properly not unless you have some sort of electronic bleed on the MAP signal. We are working on some sort of piggyback systems for the me7 cars. Just alot of tinkering to see what works and doesnt. Hope that helps.

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T5 cams versus GLT cams

"Here you ca see the diffrens on GLT and T5 cams.

GLT

Intake:250dr duration 8,45mm lift

Exhaust:252,6dr duration 8,45mm lift

T5

Intake:242dr duration 7,95 lift

Exhaust:243,5dr duration 7,95 lift"

("stolen" :ph34r: from J.R. over at vp-tuning)

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ok, one thing to add to the stage 0 things is a new o2 sensor. i just changed my original one (front), and my car runs so much better. i can feel more power, but the biggest thing is that my acceleration characteristics are greatly improved. my accelleration had felt strong, but inconsistent through the powerband. that has drastically improved, along with the added power.

the most important thing about these high mileage cars: stage 0!!!!

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will the rear sensor make any difference in performance?  it only measures the efficiency of the cat right?

Not really unless it goes out or you remove it. If the ECU notices that it's missing/giving a bad signal, it will cut off your boost. Stupid computer..

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Before you do ANY modding, you should have that list done. Otherwise you'll just be working against yourself.

Hey, tell me.. :lol:

Most 850's and also classic X70's I see within the Dutch 850 club have already reached 100K miles. A lot of the 850's already past 125K. Specially the 125K mark screams replacement of a lot of the mentioned parts but still a lot of people drive on because they do not want to spend the money. In Europe we also have pretty steep gas prices, road tax and insurance. Good maintenance is the last item on the list. Often people run in to huge expenses when things fail and damage more than necessary. Same goes for the leaking crank seal. How often do you hear people spending more than 300 dollar on a 20 dollar seal change without installing a new clutch pack at the same time. This only to save a few hundred bucks. Often the same car needs it's clutch replaced within a year after the repair so the extra labour alone could pay for the extra investment during the seal change...

It simply works that way with a lot of people. When they see a shrinking money tree they close the hood and walk away..

Erik installed a 255lph Walbro in his 850 w/ ease and thats plenty of fuel for even me ;) The walbros are ussualy sub a 100 bucks and cheaper than OEM.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Did anyone ever post a howto on any forum?

I'm thinking about installing such a pump but I can't find any info on install, type, fitment etc.

Since I hate to work with fuel I wanted to outsource this job.. :rolleyes:

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Johann's not disagreeing with you Doug... And he has a little more experience with these cars than you do ;)

Though Johann, just FYI, Joseph Essaye and I went through a period of time where we got to know the local Volvo dealership parts guys pretty well due to replacing *new* Volvo rubber couplings after blowing them practically into two pieces at high boost a few times. This was mostly at the 18-21 psi level (1.3-1.5 bar), and at the exorbitant dealer prices (like 50-90 USD for a darn rubber coupling), I could have bought myself a Samco kit...

My suggestion there would be if you blow a hose apart under boost, or find two or more with small leaks, then it is time for the samco kit. If you blow one apart, chances are that the next one is not far behind, and if you need to replace more than one elbow, the costs will come near enough to a silicon kit to make it foolish not to upgrade.

I cannot stress how important it is to inspect all these couplings though before heading for higher boost, because chances are that they haven't been replaced, and with 1994-1997 cars (with the heating and cooling, softening due to oil deposits within, etc), I am guessing that failures should be totally expected.

As far as the mods first / stage 0 first debate... I am pretty hypocritical here. Personally, I will do the mods first, and reverse engineer after that to figure out the problem.

However, anyone else should do stage 0 first so I don't have to read their stuff on here that will inevitably result in them finding the leak in the elbow connecting to the TB or something :P

This is a good thread though... Not sure if it should be pinned, kinda makes it seem like every time there's a decent thread we have to parade it around just to show that those do happen now and then here ;) But I digress...

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Though Johann, just FYI, Joseph Essaye and I went through a period of time where we got to know the local Volvo dealership parts guys pretty well due to replacing *new* Volvo rubber couplings after blowing them practically into two pieces at high boost a few times.  This was mostly at the 18-21 psi level (1.3-1.5 bar), and at the exorbitant dealer prices (like 50-90 USD for a darn rubber coupling), I could have bought myself a Samco kit...

My suggestion there would be if you blow a hose apart under boost, or find two or more with small leaks, then it is time for the samco kit.  If you blow one apart, chances are that the next one is not far behind, and if you need to replace more than one elbow, the costs will come near enough to a silicon kit to make it foolish not to upgrade.

My reply was more related to the way it was put in the list. More like before doing anything go buy Samco.. In the end it is all about money so a Stage 0 list shouldn't scare people away because it looks "overpriced". I have seen this to many times. People are weird creatures you know.. :rolleyes:

I have had people at my door asking to look at a small problem. I gave them an advice and part numbers and all urging them to get it fixed, 3 or 5 months later same people ask to help solve a huge and costly problem because they didn't repair the earlier problem causing the huge repair in the first place.

If hoses are cracked or worn Samco could be considered for sure. It is just that these hoses are not available as a kit for the early "cold" systems, Not easy to get for some people and they can be pretty pricey.

When I replaced the late IC setup with the early setup I ordered Volvo parts and yes these things also cost a fortune. One thing I noticed was that the TB/idle valve connection I received looked a lot stronger compared to the ones I have seen on older T5's and T-5R's. I am running higher boost for more than 12K miles now and up to this point the hose is still looking good. Eventually they all crack in the same spot and I do have a spare hose in stock but also for me the next "hose" will be a Samco knee for TB plus a smaller Samco with a welded connection for the idle valve. From what I know the front "S' hose for the early system isn't available. The lower IC knee should be standard pick from the list. Volvo's newer type turbo to IC pipe connection is similar to Samco already (Only grey with a Volvo logo..).

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You can also use a wrench (cant remember which size) and the harness is just plug and play.

22 mm

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"WHAT DOES THIS n THAT LOOK LIKE?" --> check here.

various turbo related performance parts, someone may check if all links apply to

VOLVO as well:

jpg

HKS EVC

http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/1914.jpg

Turbo 101 by Exhaust Depot

http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12011

Boost Controller Installation

MBC

http://import.h8rs.com/DaytonaGTS/W...files/frame.htm

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=41380&hl=

EBC

Use the above, and tap your pressure source from the manifold from the throttle body, its a black line!

Waste Gate Actuators

Turbochargers.com

http://www.turbochargers.com/images/tccwga_01.jpg

Forward Motion WGA

http://www.forwardmotioninc.com/htm...os/actuator.jpg

JLM Billet WGA *Modified Forge WGA

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/srt/billet.jpg

WGA Installation by AGP Turbo

http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27363

Turbo Timers

Greddy modified for the SRT-4 *Note you can pick Greddy TT's up from other vendors aswell!

http://store3.yimg.com/I/exhaustdepot_1787_238726

Blitz FATT DCIII

http://www.blitz-na.com/E_FATT_DCIII_Pic.jpg

Blow Off Valves

TXS Type H *Quiet* *video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/txsTypeHwrx.mpeg

http://turboxs.com/type-h_blow_off_valve.htm

TXS Type H-RFL *Real poking Loud* video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/srt4RFL.wmv

http://turboxs.com/BOV%20Type%20H-RFL.htm

Greddy Type S *video clip* http://people.zeelandnet.nl/aagoed/GreddyTypeS.avi

http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g1cat/grtyps-l.jpg

HKS SSQ *Video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/300zSSQV.avi

http://64.49.247.187/ProductImages/hks-ss.jpg

Blitz Super Sound DD *video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/blitzddjza80.mpg

http://www.blitz-na.com/blowoffvalve.html

Tial

http://www.dejontool.com/images/BOV's/Tial.JPG

BOV mounting pipes/intercooler pipes and BOV install kits

ED Hard Pipes *hot and cold side pipes, comes with either Greddy or HKS bov Flange

http://store3.yimg.com/I/exhaustdepot_1789_101648

AGP BOV kit

http://www.agpturbo.com/product_image.php?imageid=11

Modifications for the factory surge valve

AGP Block off Plate for the factory surge valve

http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/pr...9&cat=13&page=1

Mopar "BoV' its just a plate that vents the stock surge valve to the atmosphere

http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...bov_adapter.jpg

AGP EVM *AGP's version of the Mopar "BoV"

http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/pr...5&cat=13&page=1

External BOV Installation by AGP Turbo

http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28886

Mopar "Bov" installation

http://import.h8rs.com/DaytonaGTS/W... les/frame.htm

Turbo Kits/Turbo Manifolds

AGP Turbo Kit

http://www.agpturbo.com/product_image.php?imageid=5

ATP Manifold

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=VSRT

BDJ's Kit/Manifold *In developement

http://srtforums.com/forums/attachm...tachmentid=5288

Turbocharges.com Turbo Manifold

http://www.turbochargers.com/images/tccmani_01.jpg

Intercoolers

Spearco Direct Fit Intercooler

http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...o_directfit.jpg

Spearco Monster Intercooler

http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...nstercooler.jpg

Exhaust Depot Intercoolers *available as a Power intercooler or stealth, painted with black radiator paint

http://www.exhaustdepot.net/esrfrmoin.html

Griffin *Neonsparts.net

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/srt/fmic.jpg

Rage intercooler *Neonsparts.net

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new...ntercooler1.jpg

AGP intercooler

http://www.agpturbo.com/product_image.php?imageid=22

TC Intercooler *Modern Perfomance

http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...ntercooler1.jpg

Perrin Intercooler

http://www.mpjperformance.com/Merch...001/NEON011.jpg

Engine Management/Fuel Controllers

Greddy E-Manage *Can be used with or without the Greddy E-01

http://www.greddy.com/products/products.as...uel%20computer)

A'PEXi S-AFC II

http://store1.yimg.com/I/fastwrx_1788_2530

PSi-Fi Power PAQ

http://www.psifimotorsports.com/ECU.htm

Fuel Kits/upgrades

AGP turbo also has a fuel kit, contact them for more info.

Walbro 255 LPH High Flow Fuel Pump

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/srt/walbro.jpg

Engine

Unorthodox Ultra-Series Pulley *available at other vendors aswell!

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/engine/street.jpg

Eagle Connecting Rods *available at other vendors aswell!

http://www.modernperformance.com/dc..._eagle_rods.jpg

Crower Titanium Connecting Rods

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/internal/titan.jpg

Rage Connecting Rods

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new...al/rage-rod.jpg

Forged Pistons

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/internal/piston.jpg

*Weisco Also has forged pistons

Rage Stainless Steel Valves

http://www.neonparts.net/images/new...nal/valves2.jpg

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maybe u guys could pin this..but here is my composite

companies

United States

ipd www.ipdusa.com

est www.eurosporttuning.com

vms www.volvomotorsports.com

bo engstrom www.engstrom.net

vptuning www.vptuning.com

rocketeer www.rocketeeroffroad.com

Japan

www.erst.ne.jp

www.reiz.co.jp/vst/english/index.htm

www.v-racing.net

Sweden

SAM www.samsteffansson.se/samindex.html

tme www.tme.com/e_main.htm

UK

kalmar union www.kalmar-union.com

leda suspensions www.leda.com

Germany

www.mr-tuning.de

i'm sure i'm missing more in the netherlands and germany..but i don't speak either

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