Got a right side ECC cabin sensor that keeps throwing a DTC code 417. I tried the cleaning and lube fan "fix", but that was only worked short term. I was going to bite the bullet and buy one from fcp but now i can't find them anywhere. Every site I've found that lists it is now saying NLA. WTH?! I think the part numbers are volvo 9134822 or 9144337.
I know you can get these at the JY or ebay, but figuring a used one might not be any better than what I got. Open to suggestions. TIA.
My in-laws have a 2004 XC 70. It had several electronic failures after a bad jump. Most have been resolved by the dealer but there is still no heat. The CCM lights up; the fan works; the heated seat buttons work; and the lighter works. The dealer wanted to replace the CCM for over $1,000. I'd like to help them avoid that cost.
(1) Would a used replacement require any programming as long as it is the same part number?
(2) Could it be the thermister or does that that it works (except for the heat temperature) rule that out?
I am trying to decide if I try to get the existing unit re-programmed, swap with a used unit (with our without programming), or just swap the thermister from a used unit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So I hit a nasty pot hole, BOOM!!!
Luckily no issues with suspension or tire.
But...seems the shock has transferred to every brittle piece of plastic in the cabin and behind the dash. Got squeaks and rattles now. Okay....
After shock wave I have very little passenger heat from the ECC. I have read that some of the damper controls on the motor break an no longer move the dampers.
I have taken out my glove box and looked at the damper (a not so great location) but not sure what the heck I am looking for that would be broken.
Does any one have a picture of this damper motor broken?
Do I need to remove it to see the breakage.
I found this. How common is this?
Looking for insight on how to fool this so I can get more heat as it's -10F here with the wind chill.
Note: No flashing ECC lights. All systems normal.
*** For some reason when I post this doc my abbreviation for integrated circuit "eye see" gets converted to "intercooler"****
Symptom: ECC setting DTC code 3-1-3 "Ventilation motor shorted to earth or 12 volts" Basicly, air was not being directed where it should have been.
Diagnosis: No voltage across pins 4 and 5 on ventilation damper motor connector. Pulled out ECC, removed cover, removed 5 screws holding down main circuit board and lifted circuitboard back and up to view top side. Found burned area around capacitors in front of motor driver intercooler's. Checked continuity and found open circuitboard trace feeding one of the intercooler's. When the cap blew it took out the circuitboard trace.
Repair: (Note - I had the use of a microscope to do the following repair. It would have been much more difficult without it).
The following work is done on the bottom side of the circuitboard, the side that is facing up when you open up the ECC. To gain access to the pins of the motor driver intercooler's I had to pop the smaller circuitboard off its holding pins. In order to restore 12V supply to the intercooler I soldered a piece of bare wire to connect pin 7 on each of the 4 intercooler's together, thus if one intercooler has 12V they all have it. (There's a 5th intercooler next to the bank of 4 that's positioned away and back slightly that I did not connect). I plugged the ECC back up and function was restored to the ventilation damper. I could have stopped at this point but did not feel good about leaving the other caps in place and possibly having the same type of failure in the future (although there are other caps on the board that could fail). As shown in the vendor diagram for the motor driver intercooler under "Example of Application Circuit" http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/31394/TOSHIBA/TA8050P/1501/6/TA8050P.html, each intercooler has a 10uf 50V cap connected to pin 7 that filters out A/C voltage "noise" and sends it to ground. A note on the digram calls for placing the cap as close to pin 7 as possible. Polarity matters: (+) to 12V and (-) to ground. Pins 6 and 7 are connected by a trace on the circuitboard. Since pin 7 already had the bare wire soldered to it I connected the (+) side of the cap to pin 6. I chose to connect the negative side of the cap to pin 4 (ground) of the intercooler, which is probably as close as you can get to pin 7. I then broke off the old caps by just bending them back and forth a few times so that they couldn't short out in the future. Reassembled the ECC and back in business.
Total cost: $5
Just jumped off my 01 S60, and the climate control module, center switches (For the headrest release, and trunk lock), and the gear indicator LED are all powerless. The 12v cigarette lighter socket still works fine...
Nothing changed except for jumping the car off.