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Post Italian Tuneup?

Started by Guest_Brickwagon_* , Apr 29 2005 02:06 AM

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18 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_Brickwagon_*

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 02:06 AM

Three or four days after my italian tuneup, while driving my '94 850 NA sedan, I smelled gasoline, and the odor became stronger and stronger. I pulled over into a rest stop and popped the hood with my motor still running.

Gasoline was gushing out of the connection between the fuel pipe and the fuel rail. When I turned the engine off, the gas stopped gushing completely.

I called AAA and had the car towed back to my residence, where it sits now waiting for my next move.

The gentlemen who towed the car thought it was a faulty "O ring" at the connection. I checked my Haynes Repair Manual. It gave instructions for the fuel pipe(s) removal or installation.

Is there such a thing as an O-ring in between the connection? Should I replace the fuel pipe?

I guess the main question is "What do I have to remedy this situation?????"

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#2 Guest_vovomike_*

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 02:15 AM

had same problem. you must replace the o-ring.

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#3 Chris_R

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 12:31 PM

^ is right. You remove the little plate that hold the fuel line into the rail. Once you pop the line out you'll see the o-ring. Mine is green. Replace that bad-boy and you're all set.

A word of warning... be VERY careful when taking that little torx screw and plate out of the fuel rail. It's VERY easy for it to fall into the motor area. Ask me how I know.

It's best if you stuff a rag down in there to catch the parts, and the fuel that is liable to come out.

Best of luck,
-Chris

1994 855 Turbo - Rods: 4 in, 1 out
1988 745 GLE Turbo - 174 WHP, 209 TQ.
1996 965 - Needs (preferably paint code 418) front bumper cover and pass side: front fender trim, side mirror, taillight (red-clear-clear-red). PM Me!!

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#4 merlin390

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 12:46 PM

How do you know Chris?

1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.

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#5 Chris_R

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 02:02 PM

Remind me to show you where that stuff landed at the meet on Sunday.

Maybe we can find the torx bit that I chose to sacrifice rather than tear the intake apart AGAIN.

1994 855 Turbo - Rods: 4 in, 1 out
1988 745 GLE Turbo - 174 WHP, 209 TQ.
1996 965 - Needs (preferably paint code 418) front bumper cover and pass side: front fender trim, side mirror, taillight (red-clear-clear-red). PM Me!!

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#6 PullMyFinger

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 06:03 PM

I have a few missing parts in that MAGIC AREA also! Hmmm, my intake manifold bolts don't match...I wonder why. And its a good thing I accidentally bought two sets of injector seals. Oh and I raid my KTM spare nuts and bolts box more often then I like to admit. It is nice to have though.

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#7 Chris_R

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 06:55 PM

Yeah... injector seals.

I used generic o-rings for the time being. Doing ok so far.

1994 855 Turbo - Rods: 4 in, 1 out
1988 745 GLE Turbo - 174 WHP, 209 TQ.
1996 965 - Needs (preferably paint code 418) front bumper cover and pass side: front fender trim, side mirror, taillight (red-clear-clear-red). PM Me!!

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#8 merlin390

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 08:12 PM

Want me to bring you some FUEL INJ "O" Rings sunday?

1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.

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#9 Chris_R

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 09:02 PM

I need the ones that sit in the fuel rail (look like little flat black donuts) that would be AWESOME!

1994 855 Turbo - Rods: 4 in, 1 out
1988 745 GLE Turbo - 174 WHP, 209 TQ.
1996 965 - Needs (preferably paint code 418) front bumper cover and pass side: front fender trim, side mirror, taillight (red-clear-clear-red). PM Me!!

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#10 PullMyFinger

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Posted 29 April 2005 - 09:09 PM

Yeah, those little buggers can be hard to keep in there during reassembly. I use silicone grease to keep em put.

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#11 Guest_Brickwagon_*

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 07:18 PM

I was hoping that the "gushing fuel line" connection at the rail would be a successful short story. However . . .

Today, I replaced the green o-ring between the feed fuel pipe and the fuel rail. I unscrewed the fuel pipe clamp and pried the other clamp from the engine, gently pulled out the feed pipe just enough to put in new o-ring. (At that time, I thought that there should be more resistance.)

I started up the engine, and guess what: the same gushing fuel line problem around the new o-ring.

It came out so fast that I am wondering if is just the o-ring.

And shouldn't the feed fuel pipe be tight with no flexibility?

Am I missing something obvious??????????????????????

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#12 Guest_Brickwagon_*

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Posted 09 May 2005 - 05:45 PM

. . . "Am I missing something obvious?????????????????"

YES!!!!!

Today, while at the dealer's parts department to replace the spark plugs from the Italian tuneup, I mentioned what happened with the gushing fuel supply line and the o-ring connection.

He looked up the diagram/drawing, and we found that there is a MISSING screw and plate that holds the fuel line and o-ring tightly to the fuel rail. That part(s) must have fallen off.

Tomorrow, I will pick up the part. It all makes sense now.

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#13 Guest_Brickwagon_*

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Posted 12 May 2005 - 03:43 AM

Today, I picked up the ordered clamp and screw part from the Volvo parts department for the gasoline supply line to the fuel rail that contains the o-ring.

I screwed the clamp to the hole, watched it tighten the o-ring to the fuell rail and started the engine.

NO MORE GUSHING GASOLINE!!!!!

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#14 Chris_R

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 01:23 AM

QUOTE(Chris_R @ Apr 29 2005, 08:31 AM)

^ is right. You remove the little plate that hold the fuel line into the rail. Once you pop the line out you'll see the o-ring. Mine is green. Replace that bad-boy and you're all set.

A word of warning... be VERY careful when taking that little torx screw and plate out of the fuel rail. It's VERY easy for it to fall into the motor area. Ask me how I know.

It's best if you stuff a rag down in there to catch the parts, and the fuel that is liable to come out.

Yeah, that's the plate I was talking about.

Glad you got it sorted out!

1994 855 Turbo - Rods: 4 in, 1 out
1988 745 GLE Turbo - 174 WHP, 209 TQ.
1996 965 - Needs (preferably paint code 418) front bumper cover and pass side: front fender trim, side mirror, taillight (red-clear-clear-red). PM Me!!

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#15 Plan_B

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 01:30 AM

What is an "italian tune up"?

GAYTARD

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#16 FINN

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 02:09 AM

QUOTE(Plan B @ May 14 2005, 07:30 PM)

What is an "italian tune up"?

This involves taking your car out for a spin. Drive for minutes on hand at near max rpms. The idea is to get maximal air and fuel flowing through the engine to develop near maximum heat. This will burn and eject residual carbon that has collected in the engine. CHANGE YOUR OIL RIGHT AFTERWARDS.

-Petri (Val)

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1/4 mile youtube

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#17 chieffo

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 02:45 AM

that happened to me minus the italian tuneup...if you take it to the dealer they suggest that you should replace all your o-rings which ends up being a 200$ job

1993' 850 glt N/A 5 speed Red
K&N Panel Air Filter
Optima Red Top Battery
Stock OEM Spoiler

Sound: Kenwood tweeters, Pioneer TS-A530P 5.25" in front door, Infinity Kappa perfect 6x9 in back, 10inch Sony Xplod Sub

N/A Represent

Looking for an R for under 7k

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#18 Plan_B

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 03:11 AM

QUOTE(FINN @ May 14 2005, 07:09 PM)

This involves taking your car out for a spin. Drive for minutes on hand at near max rpms. The idea is to get maximal air and fuel flowing through the engine to develop near maximum heat. This will burn and eject residual carbon that has collected in the engine. CHANGE YOUR OIL RIGHT AFTERWARDS.

So you drive like Carson

GAYTARD

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#19 Bay13

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 03:50 AM

Italian tune up:

1) change the oil
2) change the spark plugs
3) warm the engine up
4) drive the car for 12 minutes at 5500rpm.
5) watch your engine temp so you don't over heat.

The above procedures is mainly for the NAs when you get a crank no start cause the valves are sticking open ever so slightly due to "stuff" in the valve guides. Lots of stop and go driving, and short trips not good. Can you do this for the turbo, sure, it will really rotate the valves and clean things up.