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Stripped Oil Drain Plug


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#1 five2loves42

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 04:06 AM

I have had the oil on my '97 850-T5 changed every 5k by a quick lube place. I had asked that the crush washer be replaced for the last 4-5 oil changes after reading this forum.

Tonight seafoamed the intake and I changed the oil myself for the first time. When I got the plug off (with some difficulty) there were aluminum pieces (read threads) in the oil drain plug. Needless to say, I was not able to get the plug to tighten down to specs and I now have a leak.

Is there any way to have this fixed short of a new oil pan? I was thinking of taking it to a shop that could weld aluminum and having it "filled" and re-tapped. Has anyone heard of this being done? I really want to save the cost of a new pan ($350-500) depending on where I look on the web.

I am going to try to get the lube shop to come clean, I have the receipts for the last 2-3 years (they are the only one to change it and they changed it last), but I am not going to hold my breath.

One other question, is how safe is it to drive now? The plug is in but not real tight. I cannot move it with my fingers, but a small amount of force (8-10lbs) with a wrench and it is loose. I am dripping a good amount of oil, but I have not driven far to see just how much I am loosing.

I appreciate any advice I can get from the group. You all have helped me diagnose several other issues with this car. I have 211,000 miles and still going strong.

Thanks,

52
97' - 850 Turbo Wagon - 209,000 miles



#2 turbobrick

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 04:13 AM

just get a tap and die kit and rethread the hole, then order a new drain plug off of a reputable volvo vendor.. i got my drain plug w/ magnet from fcpgroton.com

"i can read most any drivers moves and react accordingly. plus its halrious when they're maxed out and u draft by them like a cakewalk." - HTownTurbobrick

Chris | 95 850 Turbo | ITS SLOW



#3 five2loves42

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 04:20 AM

QUOTE(turbobrick @ May 2 2005, 11:13 PM)
just get a tap and die kit and rethread the hole, then order a new drain plug off of a reputable volvo vendor.. i got my drain plug w/ magnet from fcpgroton.com
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This is a good idea, but the stock plug wouldn't fit after I re-treaded it, would it? I would have to go oversize some what wouldn't I?
97' - 850 Turbo Wagon - 209,000 miles

#4 own6volvos

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 04:56 AM

QUOTE(five2loves42 @ May 3 2005, 04:20 AM)
This is a good idea, but the stock plug wouldn't fit after I re-treaded it, would it? I would have to go oversize some what wouldn't I?
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Threadsert
96 855 GLT
01 V70 2.4i

#5 Phaedrus

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 11:15 AM

Depending on how stripped it actually is, there are companies that sell slightly oversized drain plugs. Depending on how far gone it is you may get away with just bigger plug.

Worst case option would be to drop the pan (do the o-ring replacement while your there) and have someone tap a larger hole for a new drain plug. (Think big american truck)

I was once in your exact same situation with an '86 camry. I was lucky that I found an oversized plug that had just enough bite to grab and hold well...

~Jon
Jon Dunlap

1995 850 T5R
Koni adjustables all the way around
For Winter I sport theawsome look of 15" steel wheels and Nokian Hakkapeliitta Q's

Totally stock... 160k miles...

Major repairs: Rear Main Seal, Evaporator, Radiator, Oil Pan O-Rings, and a few others...

#6 PullMyFinger

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 05:57 PM

Also, be sure to specify that the crush washer be ALUMINUM. Copper crush washers will promote leaks and stripped threads in an aluminum pan.

#7 jda2000

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 07:32 PM

You might try the fumoto oil drain valve with nipple. You install it once tight with a heavy duty felt washer(comes with valve), and you drain the oil from now on by flipping the valve.

No risk of messing the threads again. Since you don't have to remove any plugs biggrin.gif
John, Sarasota, FL

'01 V70 T5, '07 S60 2.5T

#8 MrWinkey

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 11:38 PM

Ok ...sneaky tech tip....been down this road before....buy a 240 drain plug..and tap out the pan for that...the 240 plug is standard thread though..it's a bit big but it does work wink.gif
"SMOKE TROUT NOT CRACK"

#9 own6volvos

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 07:04 AM

QUOTE(MrWinkey @ May 3 2005, 11:38 PM)
Ok ...sneaky tech tip....been down this road before....buy a 240 drain plug..and tap out the pan for that...the 240 plug is standard thread though..it's a bit big but it does work wink.gif
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Isn't it also shorter though (less thread contact)?
96 855 GLT
01 V70 2.4i

#10 Phaedrus

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 11:15 AM

Oh what a great call. Yes if memory serves its a little shorter, but the wall thickness of the pan is the limiting factor, not the length of the bolt/plug...
Jon Dunlap

1995 850 T5R
Koni adjustables all the way around
For Winter I sport theawsome look of 15" steel wheels and Nokian Hakkapeliitta Q's

Totally stock... 160k miles...

Major repairs: Rear Main Seal, Evaporator, Radiator, Oil Pan O-Rings, and a few others...

#11 volvo4lif3

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 11:53 AM

You could also install a longer plug, longer than the one you have in now, so it can catch some of the threads that aren't stripped. Don't self tap your pan. Take your car to where you have had it done, tell them your pan is stripped, and tell them you want it fixed. People do it all the time where I work, and we are forced to fix the problem.
05 s60 2.5T

#12 KLS

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 06:18 PM

Get a cheap clicker-type 3/8" torque wrench, set it at 27 ft-lbs or whatever is the spec, and give that to the oil change guy in the pit. WATCH him tighten your drain plug properly.

I've used aluminum and fiber gaskets on the drain plug...either works fine. (They really are not crush washers, they're gaskets. Crush washers crush a specified distance for setting preload on bearings on shafts.)


Ken

#13 MrWinkey

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 11:15 PM

QUOTE(Phaedrus @ May 4 2005, 07:15 AM)
Oh what a great call.  Yes if memory serves its a little shorter, but the wall thickness of the pan is the limiting factor, not the length of the bolt/plug...
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Thankyou...atleast I'm good for something wink.gif
"SMOKE TROUT NOT CRACK"

#14 five2loves42

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 07:52 PM

Thanks for all of your help. I did get the shop to agree to split the repair cost , if it does not cost them more than $250 (total $500 ). They said I could have turned the plug the wrong way and overtightened it BEFORE I took it off (total BS), thatd if I had brought it back to them and let them take it off, they would have fixed it (again BS mad.gif )!

Does this sound like a good deal or should I go for the whole cost of a new pan and installation (about $980 at my local Volvo dealer)?

The cheaper fix I thought about is having a shop Heli-coil it and putting in a Fumoto valve.

Thanks again
97' - 850 Turbo Wagon - 209,000 miles

#15 MrWinkey

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 10:59 PM

Yawn
"SMOKE TROUT NOT CRACK"

#16 own6volvos

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Posted 06 May 2005 - 02:34 AM

QUOTE(five2loves42 @ May 5 2005, 07:52 PM)
Thanks for all of your help.  I did get the shop to agree to split the repair cost , if it does not cost them more than $250 (total $500 ). They said I could have turned the plug the wrong way and overtightened it BEFORE I took it off (total BS), thatd if I had brought it back to them and let them take it off, they would have fixed it (again BS mad.gif )!

Does this sound like a good deal or should I go for the whole cost of a new pan and installation (about $980 at my local Volvo dealer)?

The cheaper fix I thought about is having a shop Heli-coil it and putting in a Fumoto valve.

Thanks again
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Personally I would order a used oil pan, and install it myself, or have a mechanic install it. New pans probably cost insane amounts, as the labor couldn't be that much for this.
96 855 GLT
01 V70 2.4i

#17 Guest_whitewagon_*

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Posted 06 May 2005 - 04:50 AM

Watch out. They'll most likely weld a nut to the oil pan, and screw your plug into that. Than they will gladly have you pay them $250!

#18 G-Mick

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Posted 06 May 2005 - 05:12 AM

My old acura had a "piggy back" style plug because some jerk stripped the threads... essentially just an oversized plug with a smaller plug inside it.

Seemed like a decent idea except the fact that the little plug was stripped as well!! mad.gif those quick lube places man... I dont even know what to say.

-Graham
Graham
'94 850 Turbo
~150,000Km

MBC, Autometer Boost Gauge, Cat Delete, 15% Tint all round

#19 gothenburg

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Posted 09 May 2005 - 04:27 AM

I had a similiar problem.
A quick-fix is to replace the plug with Sure-drain, which costs around $15.
I haven't had any problems ever since and change the oil my self easily.




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