A few 850 and 70-series drivers here may remember posts about the Antenna Down Switch for these cars (Volvo p/n 9204656 -- I believe this is specifically for the black switch, not grey, but I don't believe that matters in terms of wiring). Here's a classic thread that includes a great photo from Mesoam:
My question... I recently picked up the SWITCH ONLY (black, for the 850 interior) on eBay and am now struggling to determine the pinouts for makeshift cabling. In my scratchy diagram (attached), I believe Pin #5 is the one that should pass +power to the antenna when the switch is in the ON position. If so, it would seem that I could splice this power in from the head unit's antenna +power output at Pin #s 1 or 3...
...but what about the embedded light inside the switch? Would I need to connect another available ground wire at Pin 1 or 3 (which seem to be hardwired together regardless of switch position)? Or at 2 or 5? Or... ? Can't tell this from that image in the 2005 post.
Or might anyone have a wiring diagram detailed enough to show this?
I realize this may be a "play with the wires and figure it out" scenario, but if anyone already has the answer... Many thanks.
Can anyone tell me why my car might have this odd style reverse switch installed? It was definitely spliced in by a previous owner/ shop at some point. And why does volvowholesalepartsdirect.com seem to think splicing in this style of switch and connector is necessary? (see link) What's wrong with the old two pin banana style switch and connector. My back up switch isn't working and I'm not sure if I should convert back to stock style switch so I can use the two pin banana switch I already have or buy a new style switch that works with the connector I currently have.
What's on my car:
What I expected to see on my car:
By Stefan Mohammed
Hey guys... I've been browsing the forums & google to look for a clear answer to this but I can't find one so I decided to ask here.
I have a friend with a 98 S70 (M4.4) that has a no start problem. His car was driving a few years ago and then he pulled the transmission to replace it. During the downtime he had with the transmission he lost the original key for the car and got a new dealer-supplied key to match his VIN. Now the car is assembled but he has a no-start condition. The car cranks but it does not get spark or fuel. From what I've read it seems that if it were an immobilizer problem the engine would not crank, is this true? If this is the case then the next most likely culprit would be either the cam or crank sensor... the next time I get to the car (sometime later this week) I can run a XRAM dump to see if a sensor is acting up. Does the problem I described sound like an immobilizer or sensor based problem? If it is an immobilizer problem, is there anyway to bypass the immobilizer on 98 S70s? I know that 850s can have their immobilizer bypassed by bridging 2 pins on the socket side of the 210 relay.
He has a key-fob but I'm not 100% sure it's functional (he says it never worked when the car used to drive). I changed the battery in the fob and I tried the key 5x lock/unlock in the driver door trick and the 5x ignition on/off and then press the unlock button on the fob trick and this didn't make any difference. The alarm LED on the dash is not lighting up when you lock the car with the key in the driver-side door lock cylinder either... yet central locking works fine from there.
My daughter lives at a great distance from me, so I do my best to help her decide what to do with her 2002 S60. For over a year her dash has been dead and she can't open the trunk. I know she needs the dash computer solder joints done according to what I read in here. She can't afford it now. Now... when she is turning in to a parking lot... her car dies. It starts back up every time. If I were to go down to her... what would I be looking at... a loose wire? ...bad connection? It dies turning in both directions. It only happens at slow speeds... not fast. Thanks