Anyone out there that can tell me how Volvo says to turn the rotors on a '96 854?
on the car or off the car?
Turning Rotors
Started by merlin390, May 03 2005 09:42 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
merlin390
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Posted 03 May 2005 - 09:42 PM
1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
#2
ToxicLemonade
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Posted 03 May 2005 - 09:45 PM
i think the only way you can turn any rotor is off the car.
Yellow 5 speed T5-R
#3
MrWinkey
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Posted 03 May 2005 - 11:12 PM
They are turned off the car...only non seperable hubs (like Honda) get turned on car...I will tell ya' I have had no sucess with turning the composite rotors
"SMOKE TROUT NOT CRACK"
#4
theunderlord
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Posted 03 May 2005 - 11:13 PM
QUOTE(MrWinkey @ May 3 2005, 04:12 PM)
They are turned off the car...only non seperable hubs (like Honda) get turned on car...I will tell ya' I have had no sucess with turning the composite rotors
you any good at machining? (serious question, not meant as jerkiness)
07.5. 3500HD SRW. LMM. LT. CCLB. 4x4. Pioneer DVD. JL Audio. Rockford Fosgate. Subthump. Katzskin Interior. Fab Fours Front Bumper. Reese Class V. 6K HID. 20% Tint. Bushwacker. Smoked Recon LED Taillights & Third Brake Light. US Speedo Gauge Overlay. Colormatched Vent Visors/AVS Bug Deflector/Door Handles. Black NFab Bars. LineX. 6" Tuff Country Lift. 325/60-20 Nitto Terra Grapplers. KMC XD Black Rockstars. 20"x10" -24 offset 4.56" BS. PCV Re-Route. Banks Boost Tube. AFE PG7. Edge CTS Race. 4" Silverline Downpipe Back Exhaust. 5" MBRP Tip.
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To Install/On Order: Banks Intercooler, AirDogII DF-165, Fab Fours Rear Bumper, Diamond Eye Downpipe.
#5
MrWinkey
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Posted 03 May 2005 - 11:21 PM
QUOTE('98S70R @ May 3 2005, 07:13 PM)
you any good at machining? (serious question, not meant as jerkiness)
Have I run a CNC lathe...no...but I have turned a few rotors in my day...what I meant by that is if your turning rotors usually it's due to warpage. And with the Volvo rotors 23mm is min if you get anywhere close to that after machining you may as well replace them because your warpage will return...not to mention I hate slow cuts waste of time and money. My opinion only
"SMOKE TROUT NOT CRACK"
#6
Tom
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Posted 03 May 2005 - 11:29 PM
QUOTE(MrWinkey @ May 3 2005, 06:21 PM)
Have I run a CNC lathe...no...but I have turned a few rotors in my day...what I meant by that is if your turning rotors usually it's due to warpage. And with the Volvo rotors 23mm is min if you get anywhere close to that after machining you may as well replace them because your warpage will return...not to mention I hate slow cuts waste of time and money. My opinion only
My opinion as well. Turning Volvo rotors is a losing proposition.
'94 850 wagon, N/A, automatic, 170K.
#7
merlin390
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Posted 03 May 2005 - 11:57 PM
I dont like turning rotors either but I know these have never been cut. I would rather replace them but right now $$ is in short supply. I have access to a brake lathe and I know how to use it 
so If i can get them to last 6 more months all will be good. I am going to pull the tires and measure the rotors tomorrow night and probably cut them. the front min is 23mm, whats the min on the rears? ('96 854)
so If i can get them to last 6 more months all will be good. I am going to pull the tires and measure the rotors tomorrow night and probably cut them. the front min is 23mm, whats the min on the rears? ('96 854)
1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
#8
MrWinkey
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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:02 AM
I wouldn't cut them unless you have a vibration issue?....rears are 7.5 or 8mm I think not real sure off the top of my head..the min. spec is stamped on the rotor
"SMOKE TROUT NOT CRACK"
#9
merlin390
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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:08 AM
oh yeah it has vibration. I am going to use the dial guage and measure my runout on all four rotors, I am pretty sure all 4 will need machining. Last time I changed my oil I rotated the tires and checked the pads, there is plenty of material on them so I will brake the glaze with some sand paper and rebed them after machining. Heck might as well buy some DOT4+ and flush my brake lines
1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
#10
KLS
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Posted 04 May 2005 - 06:25 PM
Hunter's on-car brake lathe
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/lathe/5071T/index.htm
If you have access to a dial indicator, index the rotor when you reinstall it on the car. Try different positions to find the position with the least runout. Even if you machine it true, differences on the hub and how it fits the hub can cause enough final runout to cause brake pulsation.
Ken
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/lathe/5071T/index.htm
If you have access to a dial indicator, index the rotor when you reinstall it on the car. Try different positions to find the position with the least runout. Even if you machine it true, differences on the hub and how it fits the hub can cause enough final runout to cause brake pulsation.
Ken
Edited by KLS, 04 May 2005 - 06:28 PM.
