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New Brakes


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#1 Paul33603

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 09:42 PM

Hey guys

I am in the market for new pads and rotors. Just had a new front suspension put on(struts, mounts, sway links, inner and outer tie rods and control arms). I was told I need new rotors (they are warped) and pads. What do you guys suggest? I dont drive hard too often but if I need to stop I want something to back me up. Whats the deal with cross drilled rotors? What type of pads do you suggest?

Thanks for replies in advance!
Paul
96 850R with 150,000, Tampa Bay Florida EST Rip Kit. IPD boost gauge cluster, K&N filter, Seafoam and scared to switch to Mobile one, no oil leaks as we speak
Also 2002 XC 70 with 49,000 bone stock switched to Mobile One!



#2 Che'_Moderator

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 09:44 PM

QUOTE(Paul33603 @ May 4 2005, 03:42 PM)
Hey guys

  I am in the market for new pads and rotors.  Just had a new front suspension put on(struts, mounts, sway links, inner and outer tie rods and control arms).  I was told I need new rotors (they are warped) and pads.  What do you guys suggest?  I dont drive hard too often but if I need to stop I want something to back me up.  Whats the deal with cross drilled rotors?  What type of pads do you suggest?

Thanks for replies in advance!
    Paul
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When I had Volvo brakes I always used drilled brembos with C-tech pads.
Fluid I usually use ATE Super Blue one time and motul the next.

#3 MrWinkey

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 11:11 PM

I actually prefer the factory pads unless your driving like a mad man as for the cross drilled once again you will not see any advantages unless your using the brakes really hard
"SMOKE TROUT NOT CRACK"

#4 KLS

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 02:26 AM

I like PBR front pads and Mintex rears. PBR fronts seem to brake very well with little dust, and the Mintex rears are much more squeak-free than the PBR rears I've used. Zimmerman rotors are one of the very good brands.

Brake discs hardly ever warp. Brake judder is usually from pad material overheated and deposited on the rotor surface.
http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml#warped_rotors
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Do a full brake fluid change-out. Any of the premium DOT4+ or DOT5.1 brake fluids are very good (4+ & 5.1 are the same unofficial thing). Never use DOT5 silicone brake fluid.
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid_faq.shtml


Ken

#5 Chris_R

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 06:47 PM

What about the PBR Ceramics? Any good?

1994 855 Turbo - Rods: 4 in, 1 out
1988 745 GLE Turbo - 174 WHP, 209 TQ.
1996 965 - Needs (preferably paint code 418) front bumper cover and pass side: front fender trim, side mirror, taillight (red-clear-clear-red). PM Me!!

#6 Ceenit

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 07:32 PM

I like Raysbestos Quite Stops on the front, and Volvo pads on the back to avoid the common squeeking issues. Shims on front and back. And plenty of CRC anit-squeal compound.

For rotors, brembo and zimmerman are both very good (paint the centers black to avoid rusting on the areas that do not come in contact with the pads).

On our cars, cross drilled and slotted rotors are mostly for aesthetics (they look great). If you track your car, you may see a slight performance benefit. There is typically a tradeoff for the aesthetic benefit. I can't speak specifically to slotted rotors, but cross drilled will tend to get small cracks between the holes over time. There is also a tendency to feel a bit more vibration in the brake pedal when using slotted and cross drilled versus the standards rotors. This is due to the less smooth surface.
Chris
05 BMW 525
03 Acura MDX
94 Porsche 968 Cab
98 Volvo S70 T5 - Sold

#7 Chris_R

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 07:43 PM

Don't forget the whooshing noise they make.

That's a love it or hate it thing.

1994 855 Turbo - Rods: 4 in, 1 out
1988 745 GLE Turbo - 174 WHP, 209 TQ.
1996 965 - Needs (preferably paint code 418) front bumper cover and pass side: front fender trim, side mirror, taillight (red-clear-clear-red). PM Me!!




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