Jump to content


FCP Euro

Hello From Newbie


This topic has been archived. This means that you cannot reply to this topic.
16 replies to this topic

#1 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 02:19 AM

hello guys! after reading through a lot of posts here, ive finally decided to join and ask some questions (kinda self-serving, huh?).

anyway, ive been an owner of a 95 854 turbo with 186k miles in them--i know, yikes!--for about a month now. i love the look and the performance as soon as i picked it up. but things have been going downhill from then on.

1. ive changed the oil to synthetic and now the idle rpm is higher, much louder when the car is stopped and the gear is on D. ive also gotten really bad mileage since then. did changing to synthetic caused this, or do i just need a tune-up?

2. ive flushed the atf too. before that, the atf was really dark brown. but now, the transmission seems like it is in sport mode eventhough the switch is in econo. it just will not upshift right away. its kinda fund to accelerate, but im wondering if this is ok.

3. my temperature gauge is above 3:00, its been like since i got the car. it has never gone beyond that, though standing next to the car, it gets hot. lately, ive gotten a leak where my lower hose meets the radiator. so i tightened up the clamps, and it was ok. now i got a leak where the upper hose meets the radiator, and the leak from the lower hose came back(!). do you think the plastics are done? do i need a new radiator or can i just use those radiator "stop-leaks?"

any feedbacks will be appreciated. thanks again and great forum.
95 854 turbo 190k



#2 tenn850

tenn850

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 428 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 03:20 AM

Usually fully sunthetic oil helps your engine to stay cooler and do better gas milage. So if you do not have any oil leaks it is ok to use synthetic (Mobil1 or Castrol).

I would drain the cooling system and take the cooling hoses off (when cold) and check the radiator connections. You might have a clogged radiator or broken inlet. That might explain your temp. gage above 3 o'clock position. It is not hard to intall a new one. Your radiator is for antifreeze and ATF. Flush it if you decide not to intall new radiator.

It pays to check the spark plugs and rotor/cap and wires. If they are worn out I would replace them since it will cost about $100 for parts and it is easy to replace.

Edited by tenn850, 05 May 2005 - 03:21 AM.

95 850 GLT


#3 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 03:32 AM

QUOTE(tenn850 @ May 4 2005, 08:20 PM)
Usually fully sunthetic oil helps your engine to stay cooler and do better gas milage. So if you do not have any oil leaks it is ok to use synthetic (Mobil1 or Castrol).

I would drain the cooling system and take the cooling hoses off (when cold) and check the radiator connections. You might have a clogged radiator or broken inlet. That might explain your temp. gage above 3 o'clock position. It is not hard to intall a new one. Your radiator is for antifreeze and ATF. Flush it if you decide not to intall new radiator.

It pays to check the spark plugs and rotor/cap and wires. If they are worn out I would replace them since it will cost about $100 for parts and it is easy to replace.
View Post


i actually plan to do these things next. im just stumped on why is it that when i do these maintenance things, it seems like something worse happens. then again, it could just be due for it since its a high miler car.
95 854 turbo 190k

#4 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 03:37 AM

by the way, i dont have any check engine lite on, use premium gas, and have tires in correct pressure. i used to boast to my wife about the great mpg, but not anymore.
95 854 turbo 190k

#5 RLN THDR

RLN THDR

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 229 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 04:12 AM

thermosat immediately. i have two cars here in my shop w/ blown head gaskets that all stemmed from that. also rplece your old hose now. it cn ONLY GET WORSE. these things are easy and cheap, the alternatives of overheating are not.
Joes Vovo


"Right now there is an engineer sitting in a high rise, sippin' a cup of coffee, thinking all is good."-MrWinkey

#6 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 04:29 AM

QUOTE(RLN THDR @ May 4 2005, 09:12 PM)
thermosat immediately.  i have two cars here in my shop w/ blown head gaskets that all stemmed from that.  also rplece your old hose now.  it cn ONLY GET WORSE.  these things are easy and cheap, the alternatives of overheating are not.
View Post


ok, will do right away. but does that explain the bad mpg? also, why do both my hoses leak at the radiator connection? i actually took off the upper hose, and it looked good. put it back on and tightened more. now the leak is bigger. i think the plastic radiators cracked. ouch!
95 854 turbo 190k

#7 RLN THDR

RLN THDR

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 229 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 04:38 AM

yes, or the hose is old. as for mpg, stage zero first. then worry, it is a combination of old parts. dont worry, i have 231K and it runs great, all old stuff replaced.
Joes Vovo


"Right now there is an engineer sitting in a high rise, sippin' a cup of coffee, thinking all is good."-MrWinkey

#8 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 05:06 AM

its encouraging news about your 231k car smile.gif

Edited by noho, 05 May 2005 - 05:17 AM.

95 854 turbo 190k

#9 donstruke

donstruke

    Level 3 Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,017 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 06:06 AM

QUOTE(noho @ May 5 2005, 12:06 AM)
its encouraging news about your 231k car  smile.gif
View Post

True, that, but notice he has maintained his car. Suggest you search here for the Stage 0 fixes he mentioned. It might be found as Stage One, but what it is is a list of all of the elementary things needed to bring your car back to near-perfect (well, that's a relative term) condition. Your Volvo does come with a very durable engine BUT (that's b-u-t) it has to be maintained.
Welcome. Volvospeed is a terrific resource and I see that you have begun on the right foot by getting into its database already. Smart move.
Hangin' on in Baltimore
- V70 so stock
- Taurus NA
- und Das Silber Benz
Some people are like Slinkies. They're good for absolutely
nothing but a lot of fun to push down the stairs.

Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes.
That way, you're a mile away and you have their shoes.

Timing has an awful lot to do with the outcome of a raindance.

#10 kenhoeve

kenhoeve

    Level 3 Member

  • Supporting Member
  • 2,617 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 06:59 AM

your high idle and bad mileage could be due to a vacuum leak. suggest you get hold of any boost/vacuum gauge and hook it up to the empty port on the vacuum tree, this is under the throttle body cover on the front of the engine. start the engine and take the reading at idle. if it is lower than say 20 in/hg, you should check all your vacuum lines or have a mechanic check them.

another good way to know if you have a good vac leak is to just pop the hood and listen. if there is a distinctive hiss, that is a telltale sign.
2007 V70R
FMIC|iPd stage I|iPd sways|iPd endlinks|CAI|QBM|SSR GT-10|IMiV|Alpine|Rockford|Patchouli
Best wagon ever if the damn airbox would stop vibrating and it didn't have a Ford Escort headliner.

#11 maiku

maiku

    Level 5 Member

  • Supporting Member
  • 9,671 posts

Posted 05 May 2005 - 07:03 AM

volvo's aren't honda's or toyota's or other crap japanese cars that can go a bajillion miles without an oil change

if you keep your volvo happy, your volvo will keep you happy

Edited by anitanium, 05 May 2005 - 07:04 AM.


#12 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 14 May 2005 - 05:44 AM

i have replaced the thermostat. the old one had the little swiveling thing pointed towards the passenger side (stuck open?).

replaced old radiator with a new nissens. yup, the plastic parts had cracks already. so far no leaks yet.

here are my new questions after doing these:

1. why is my temp gauge still higher than 3 o clock?

2. should i have replaced the engine coolant temperature too?

3. my temp gauge does a gradual climb when the engine warms up, but how do i know if its really working or not?

4. due to coolant squirting out of the upper hose and getting the power steering pump wet, i now hear a squeking sound there (at least i think its the ps pump). what can i do about it? what to watch out for?

im still kind of guessing whether the too hot coolant caused the plastics on my old radiator to crack. if thats the case, then my new radiator will also crack soon. and of course, the worst case scenario will be that the egine overheats without the temp gauge telling me.

lastly, i have almost rounded up the edges of the torx bolt on the thermostat housing. how do i take it off now, just in case i needed to replace the ect sensor?

thanks for all the replies guys, i really appreciate it. smile.gif
95 854 turbo 190k

#13 prasamin

prasamin

    Bipedal Magnaflux

  • Supporting Member
  • 16,242 posts

Posted 14 May 2005 - 06:10 AM

QUOTE(noho @ May 14 2005, 05:44 AM)
4. due to coolant squirting out of the upper hose and getting the power steering pump wet, i now hear a squeking sound there (at least i think its the ps pump). what can i do about it? what to watch out for?

im still kind of guessing whether the too hot coolant caused the plastics on my old radiator to crack. if thats the case, then my new radiator will also crack soon. and of course, the worst case scenario will be that the egine overheats without the temp gauge telling me.

lastly, i have almost rounded up the edges of the torx bolt on the thermostat housing. how do i take it off now, just in case i needed to replace the ect sensor?

thanks for all the replies guys, i really appreciate it. smile.gif
View Post



I would replace the ECT if your gauge still goes up too far, unless you got the wrong tstat....
the sound you hear around the p/s pump is most likely the serp belt squeeling, and not a big deal, but can be replaced and fixed
for the torx bolt, you'll need to drill them out if you've stripped them completely...to make it easier to get off, use something called PB blaster multiple times, letting it sit there each time, then try to unscrew....when you put them back in, some anti-sieze stuff could help for the next time.

#14 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 14 May 2005 - 06:24 AM

QUOTE(prasamin @ May 13 2005, 11:10 PM)
I would replace the ECT if your gauge still goes up too far, unless you got the wrong tstat....
View Post


i got the vernet tstat, #271417, 87 degrees. the same one that fcpgroton sells. will the new ect guarantee that i have a working temp gauge? also, shouldnt my engine temp be lower with a new radiator? just wondering...thanks by the way
95 854 turbo 190k

#15 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 14 May 2005 - 06:29 AM

prasamin, i notice youre from LA area too. where does your temp gauge rest when the engine is warmed up? also, does it get hot standing next to the car after driving it for awhile? what is your mpg city driving? sorry if too much q's, just wanna know if my baby is doing ok biggrin.gif
95 854 turbo 190k

#16 noho

noho

    Level 1 Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts

Posted 14 May 2005 - 03:45 PM

...bump...
95 854 turbo 190k

#17 Guest_AlvinL_*

Guest_AlvinL_*
  • Guests

Posted 14 May 2005 - 04:36 PM

Congrats! High miles on these cars are not a factor if well maintained.

I'm on my second 850 and I can tell you it warms up pretty quick and the needle rests a little higher than 3 o'clock, more like around 2:45. That's normal. Never changed my ECT on either car. You have a 95 so you can check DTC codes yourself. A6-123 DTC code should be set if your ECT is faulty. A1, A2 and A6 can affect your fuel consumption. Check all your vacuum lines and check/clean your PCV.

Edit: Check your transmission for any A1 codes.

My T-5R gas mileage around 18 mpg (US) for mixed driving. Got around 25 mpg (US) on a recent long distance 1200 mile round trip. It's so hard keeping my foot off the pedal. I love those quick off the line starts and leaving them at the lights! Turbos are so fun! biggrin.gif

by the way, for comparison. My former N.A. GLT was about 21 mpg (US) for mixed.

http://volvospeed.com/maintence.htm

Edited by AlvinL, 14 May 2005 - 04:39 PM.





IPD Volvo Parts


Copyright 2012 Volvospeed