Hello From Newbie
#1
Posted 05 May 2005 - 02:19 AM
anyway, ive been an owner of a 95 854 turbo with 186k miles in them--i know, yikes!--for about a month now. i love the look and the performance as soon as i picked it up. but things have been going downhill from then on.
1. ive changed the oil to synthetic and now the idle rpm is higher, much louder when the car is stopped and the gear is on D. ive also gotten really bad mileage since then. did changing to synthetic caused this, or do i just need a tune-up?
2. ive flushed the atf too. before that, the atf was really dark brown. but now, the transmission seems like it is in sport mode eventhough the switch is in econo. it just will not upshift right away. its kinda fund to accelerate, but im wondering if this is ok.
3. my temperature gauge is above 3:00, its been like since i got the car. it has never gone beyond that, though standing next to the car, it gets hot. lately, ive gotten a leak where my lower hose meets the radiator. so i tightened up the clamps, and it was ok. now i got a leak where the upper hose meets the radiator, and the leak from the lower hose came back(!). do you think the plastics are done? do i need a new radiator or can i just use those radiator "stop-leaks?"
any feedbacks will be appreciated. thanks again and great forum.
#2
Posted 05 May 2005 - 03:20 AM
I would drain the cooling system and take the cooling hoses off (when cold) and check the radiator connections. You might have a clogged radiator or broken inlet. That might explain your temp. gage above 3 o'clock position. It is not hard to intall a new one. Your radiator is for antifreeze and ATF. Flush it if you decide not to intall new radiator.
It pays to check the spark plugs and rotor/cap and wires. If they are worn out I would replace them since it will cost about $100 for parts and it is easy to replace.
Edited by tenn850, 05 May 2005 - 03:21 AM.
#3
Posted 05 May 2005 - 03:32 AM
I would drain the cooling system and take the cooling hoses off (when cold) and check the radiator connections. You might have a clogged radiator or broken inlet. That might explain your temp. gage above 3 o'clock position. It is not hard to intall a new one. Your radiator is for antifreeze and ATF. Flush it if you decide not to intall new radiator.
It pays to check the spark plugs and rotor/cap and wires. If they are worn out I would replace them since it will cost about $100 for parts and it is easy to replace.
i actually plan to do these things next. im just stumped on why is it that when i do these maintenance things, it seems like something worse happens. then again, it could just be due for it since its a high miler car.
#4
Posted 05 May 2005 - 03:37 AM
#5
Posted 05 May 2005 - 04:12 AM
"Right now there is an engineer sitting in a high rise, sippin' a cup of coffee, thinking all is good."-MrWinkey
#6
Posted 05 May 2005 - 04:29 AM
ok, will do right away. but does that explain the bad mpg? also, why do both my hoses leak at the radiator connection? i actually took off the upper hose, and it looked good. put it back on and tightened more. now the leak is bigger. i think the plastic radiators cracked. ouch!
#7
Posted 05 May 2005 - 04:38 AM
"Right now there is an engineer sitting in a high rise, sippin' a cup of coffee, thinking all is good."-MrWinkey
#8
Posted 05 May 2005 - 05:06 AM
Edited by noho, 05 May 2005 - 05:17 AM.
#9
Posted 05 May 2005 - 06:06 AM
True, that, but notice he has maintained his car. Suggest you search here for the Stage 0 fixes he mentioned. It might be found as Stage One, but what it is is a list of all of the elementary things needed to bring your car back to near-perfect (well, that's a relative term) condition. Your Volvo does come with a very durable engine BUT (that's b-u-t) it has to be maintained.
Welcome. Volvospeed is a terrific resource and I see that you have begun on the right foot by getting into its database already. Smart move.
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Timing has an awful lot to do with the outcome of a raindance.
#10
Posted 05 May 2005 - 06:59 AM
another good way to know if you have a good vac leak is to just pop the hood and listen. if there is a distinctive hiss, that is a telltale sign.
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Best wagon ever if the damn airbox would stop vibrating and it didn't have a Ford Escort headliner.
#11
Posted 05 May 2005 - 07:03 AM
if you keep your volvo happy, your volvo will keep you happy
Edited by anitanium, 05 May 2005 - 07:04 AM.
#12
Posted 14 May 2005 - 05:44 AM
replaced old radiator with a new nissens. yup, the plastic parts had cracks already. so far no leaks yet.
here are my new questions after doing these:
1. why is my temp gauge still higher than 3 o clock?
2. should i have replaced the engine coolant temperature too?
3. my temp gauge does a gradual climb when the engine warms up, but how do i know if its really working or not?
4. due to coolant squirting out of the upper hose and getting the power steering pump wet, i now hear a squeking sound there (at least i think its the ps pump). what can i do about it? what to watch out for?
im still kind of guessing whether the too hot coolant caused the plastics on my old radiator to crack. if thats the case, then my new radiator will also crack soon. and of course, the worst case scenario will be that the egine overheats without the temp gauge telling me.
lastly, i have almost rounded up the edges of the torx bolt on the thermostat housing. how do i take it off now, just in case i needed to replace the ect sensor?
thanks for all the replies guys, i really appreciate it.
#13
Posted 14 May 2005 - 06:10 AM
im still kind of guessing whether the too hot coolant caused the plastics on my old radiator to crack. if thats the case, then my new radiator will also crack soon. and of course, the worst case scenario will be that the egine overheats without the temp gauge telling me.
lastly, i have almost rounded up the edges of the torx bolt on the thermostat housing. how do i take it off now, just in case i needed to replace the ect sensor?
thanks for all the replies guys, i really appreciate it.
I would replace the ECT if your gauge still goes up too far, unless you got the wrong tstat....
the sound you hear around the p/s pump is most likely the serp belt squeeling, and not a big deal, but can be replaced and fixed
for the torx bolt, you'll need to drill them out if you've stripped them completely...to make it easier to get off, use something called PB blaster multiple times, letting it sit there each time, then try to unscrew....when you put them back in, some anti-sieze stuff could help for the next time.
#14
Posted 14 May 2005 - 06:24 AM
i got the vernet tstat, #271417, 87 degrees. the same one that fcpgroton sells. will the new ect guarantee that i have a working temp gauge? also, shouldnt my engine temp be lower with a new radiator? just wondering...thanks by the way
#15
Posted 14 May 2005 - 06:29 AM
#16
Posted 14 May 2005 - 03:45 PM
#17 Guest_AlvinL_*
Posted 14 May 2005 - 04:36 PM
I'm on my second 850 and I can tell you it warms up pretty quick and the needle rests a little higher than 3 o'clock, more like around 2:45. That's normal. Never changed my ECT on either car. You have a 95 so you can check DTC codes yourself. A6-123 DTC code should be set if your ECT is faulty. A1, A2 and A6 can affect your fuel consumption. Check all your vacuum lines and check/clean your PCV.
Edit: Check your transmission for any A1 codes.
My T-5R gas mileage around 18 mpg (US) for mixed driving. Got around 25 mpg (US) on a recent long distance 1200 mile round trip. It's so hard keeping my foot off the pedal. I love those quick off the line starts and leaving them at the lights! Turbos are so fun!
by the way, for comparison. My former N.A. GLT was about 21 mpg (US) for mixed.
http://volvospeed.com/maintence.htm
Edited by AlvinL, 14 May 2005 - 04:39 PM.















