Recommended Posts

This is a build thread for my s60

Started out in life as a 2002 2.4t lpt, i upped the boost without a tune which resulted in a spun bearing after detonation.

 

I then bought a b5204t5 engine stripped it down and it looked almost new inside, clearly very well looked after i then started buying parts

d5 93.2mm crankshaft 

Zrp conrods 

Weisco 81.5mm pistons (8.5:1 compression) To make a 2430cc engine 

Cat cams single valve springs 

Block mod (apparently block mods will see 600hp on an 83mm bore in a focus rs which is also 8.5:1 compression so hoping a 81.5mm bore with block mod will see out 650hp)

1.3mm mls head gasket 

850 NA cams without vvt and set to no overlap and maximum advance on inlet for the lumpy noise 

VVT delete 

AC delete 

Arp head and main bolts

5 to 1 collector/banana manifold 

Pulsar Gtx3576r 0.82ar turbine housing 

Turbosmart 45mm waistgate with 18psi base pressure, i plan on welding this directly to the exhaust housing (space permitting) for maximum control 

707 clutch with cinter clutch plate 

Snabb ultimate intercooler kit

M56 with LSD

I've port and polished my cylinder head and stock inlet manifold myself 

Inlet manifold spacer with much lower heat condition 

AEM 340lph fuel pump located when the old fuel tank was and rising rate fuel pressure regulator (60psi base pressure) with 8an hosing and 6an return to a 60 litre fuel cell in the boot 

Then closing off the boot completely from the cabin to protect in the case of a fuel leak 

1200cc bosch injectors and speeding performance fuel rail 

Ill be deleting the pcv system and just installing a catch can to the turbo intake for crank case ventilation 

ECU master black control unit and 7 inch ECU display 

The engine will be running on volumetric efficiency rather than maf flow 

Bosch pressure and temp sensors for oil and coolant (coolant pressure to keep an eye on the liners 

2x knock sensors 

1x bosch 4.9lsu wide band o2 sensor

Im a qualified auto electrician so will be doing all the wiring myself 

Im unsure if i want to run a water meth system yet or not as the intercooler is massive anyway and dont think intake temperatures will be an issue 

E85 isnt really very available in the uk so wont be using flex fuel (a 200l barrel of e85 fuel is about £600 so dont think its worth it)

My plan is to run a 3.5 inch exhaust from the turbo to the back box then step up to a 4 inch for the tip, and a 48mm screamer pipe out of the bonnet for the waistgate 

I wont be running a blow off valve because i love the sound of turbo surge and i know it doesnt actually affect the life of the turbo but does slightly increase spool time when changing gear (this is meant to be a fun road car not a time attack car so i dont mind loosing a bit of spool for my favourite noise)

Ill be sticking with the fwd rather than upgrading to awd 

Im going to build my own roll cage bolted to chassis points to strengthen the body for flex 

My goal is eventually 650hp but 500hp to start with when the build is complete to test it for 6 months and then check the compression and general health of the engine as ive never built one before but am teaching myself with the Internet how to do it properly then ill turn the boost up if all is well with the engine ive been a mechanic/vehicle technician for 9 years 8 of which were with volvo Cambridge so i know pretty much everything about these engines and the platform 

I already have the lsd, coil overs, 9j bola csr wheels with 245/40 r18 tyres. Im using s60r brembo brakes fron and rear with yellow stuff pads and slotted discs. 40mm wheel spacers all round with extended arches.

The interior is completely stripped out aside from the dash and radio as it is still a road car and i love my music so i might upgrade all the speakers while im at it

Im still currently using the stock leather front seats as im not sure which seats i want and would like to try them before purchasing.

Does anyone know of seat rail adapters for p2 volvos to suit sparco or omp seats??

If anyone has any suggestions for doing the build a bit better it would be very appreciated 

Do you need to apply sealent to a mls head gasket?

20220530_065747.jpg

20220505_151059.jpg

Edited by Jacob s60r_ish
Spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Jacob s60r_ish changed the title to Suggestions for my Frankinstein engine
  • 3 weeks later...

Use the dual vvt head, you can get some nice spool out of it. Its not hard to set up. Get the angles, hook up the solenoids, ME7 cam sensors etc etc. 

 

No need for the block mod. It does not make the block stronger, it just stops it from leaking if it cracks. 81mm block is good for 600-800hp depending on who you ask. 

 

Also take a look at the Pulsar g25 660 and 770, should be a better turbo for your application.

 

Don't do the ARP head-studs you will probably crack the block water jackets.

 

Go with the VAG diesel 12.9 170mm blots with spacers cut down to 157mm ( i can find the PN if you want I have them on my block) with the s60r MLS gasket. Simplyvolvo is running this setup at over 1000 crank hp with no head issues.

 

For the 707 with R clutch disk is RATED for 577nm... I dont think you will go above that so I would stick with that setup, drivability is nice (i have this setup with the quaife LSD), but you need to re-dill the holes on the flywheel to match the 707 PP.

 

I don't see the point of the D5 crankshaft..... Just get a RN 93.2mm crankshaft

 

I would recommend Glyco sputter rod bearings and King XPS main bearings. 

 

When using the RN oil pan there is a great place for the oil temp sensor (its a plug right after the oil is sent up to the block) and you can use a Y adapter to get the pressure from where the stock pressure switch is, there is more then enough space there.

 

I would also reccomend you do an adapter plate for the stock oil cooler with AN10 lines and run an external oil cooler with and oil termostat.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 6/10/2022 at 2:59 AM, lowkeyturbo said:

Use the dual vvt head, you can get some nice spool out of it. Its not hard to set up. Get the angles, hook up the solenoids, ME7 cam sensors etc etc. 

 

No need for the block mod. It does not make the block stronger, it just stops it from leaking if it cracks. 81mm block is good for 600-800hp depending on who you ask. 

 

Also take a look at the Pulsar g25 660 and 770, should be a better turbo for your application.

 

Don't do the ARP head-studs you will probably crack the block water jackets.

 

Go with the VAG diesel 12.9 170mm blots with spacers cut down to 157mm ( i can find the PN if you want I have them on my block) with the s60r MLS gasket. Simplyvolvo is running this setup at over 1000 crank hp with no head issues.

 

For the 707 with R clutch disk is RATED for 577nm... I dont think you will go above that so I would stick with that setup, drivability is nice (i have this setup with the quaife LSD), but you need to re-dill the holes on the flywheel to match the 707 PP.

 

I don't see the point of the D5 crankshaft..... Just get a RN 93.2mm crankshaft

 

I would recommend Glyco sputter rod bearings and King XPS main bearings. 

 

When using the RN oil pan there is a great place for the oil temp sensor (its a plug right after the oil is sent up to the block) and you can use a Y adapter to get the pressure from where the stock pressure switch is, there is more then enough space there.

 

I would also reccomend you do an adapter plate for the stock oil cooler with AN10 lines and run an external oil cooler with and oil termostat.

 

Thank you for the reply, ive since had sleeves fitted to the block and got a twin plate organic clutch for her. The rn and d5 crankshaft are the same part number but the d5 one is sold way cheaper.

Im gonna stick with the single vvt head and a blanking plate for the exhaust vvt for now as i already have all the hardware. Ive heard these engines dont really react to bigger cams much due to valve angle limiting flow, porting is a much better option.

Im going to be running a 80c thermostat and focus rs oil cooler (radiator is aluminium and 25% bigger than stock with R water pump for 15% more flow) that set up is proven and cant find any real world results of oil temps on a t5 using an external cooler, plus the lines have to be pretty long!

I took your advice on the bearings, only needed standard size, seems to be very little ware on the d5 crank.

The block is currently on a stand all clean with new westwood sleeves installed.

 

Any other help would be appreciated 

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Jacob s60r_ish changed the title to Suggestions for my t5 engine build

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share